Birdie Boone on thu 11 feb 99
Someone on clayart asked what exactly slip resist does. Since I am the
one who asked for recipes for it, I thought I'd give what input I can.
I will have to admit that I don't know too much about it, but here's
what I do know: A slip resist is a "resist" made of a slip that one can
paint onto their pot before rakuing (or, apparently saggar or pit
firing). This "resist" will hide areas of the pot that are covered by
it so that these areas end up NOT being smoked during the post firing
reduction process in raku. Once the pot is cool, the slip resist is
removed and the areas beneath are not smoked. I have not seen slip
resist used in conjunction with glaze, so I can only infer that the
glaze recipes supplied by Ms. Berman (in conjunction with the slip
resist recipes) are for glazes that are compatible with the resists,
i.e. one could paint the resist over the glaze and they will not melt
together. But I may be wrong about this. Anyone else?
Lynne Berman on sat 13 feb 99
Actually, for the recipes which require slip and glaze, the glaze goes over
the slip. In this process the slip isn't so inclined to fall off before you
want it to but getting it all off after the post-firing reduction is more of a
challenge but appealing to those of us who like to pick at things.
Lynne Berman in Philadelphia
Bryan Hannis on tue 28 dec 99
I'm looking for a raku slip resist to use on hutchens raku clay body any
help would be greatly appreciated, and any info on how thick to apply and
what is the best way to fire would also be appreciated.
Norma Williams on tue 3 aug 04
I use a raku clay from Continental Clay in Minneapolis MN. Does anyone =
have a recipe for a good "naked raku" resist to use on this clay? I =
would like to try this technique. Thanks! Norma Williams
Cynthia Bracker on tue 3 aug 04
There are 2 good ones in Don Davis's book (both are credited to Steve
#1 Fireclay 50
Alumina Hydrate 20
#2 Ball Clay 40
Alumina Hydrate 20
Note: For better hold on vertical surfaces, increase the alumina to 23%
for easier removal, decrease it.
Personal advice: If you don't already mix up glazes or your own clay
body, and therefore have no dry materials in your studio, go with #2.
The only reason I say this is because any supplier will weigh out ball
clay, epk and alumina. Not all will weigh out fireclay, and fireclay
comes in a 100# bag! You don't want a bunch of that sitting around just
to make this recipe.
Norma Williams wrote:
>I use a raku clay from Continental Clay in Minneapolis MN. Does anyone have a recipe for a good "naked raku" resist to use on this clay? I would like to try this technique. Thanks! Norma Williams
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