David Hendley on mon 1 mar 99
Donn, you have me scratching my head here, saying that wood
has a higher fire rating than steel.
After catching my wood-framed kiln shed on fire, I tore it down
and built an all-steel structure so it would be fire-proof.
Am I now in more fire danger? Surely not.
Also, aluminum foil will indeed serve to reflect heat from a wall,
but it will also conduct heat right into the wall at the points where
it is in contact with the wall.
All heat shields need an airspace between the shield and the wall;
in fact, this airspace is required to meet building codes for
fireplaces and wood stoves installed next to flammable walls.
A rigid shield, with an air space, is much better than foil stapled
directly to the wall.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
At 11:55 PM 2/27/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>get a vent for it and make sure you put it away from a wall, and if you are
>still worried about a wall it is next to, staple some heavy duty aluminum
foil
>on the wall, shiny side out, this will reflect most of the heat energy.
>
>also wood has a higher fire rating than steel
>
>just don't raku in your wooden building
>
>Donn Buchfinck
>
Donn Buchfinck on tue 2 mar 99
call up a contractor and ask them about the fire rating of a wood beam vs a
steel one.
the steel heats up and deforms pretty quickly, making the integrity of the
building not safe, wood chars and the flame burns through it slower. it
burns but in a large structure it gives people more time to get out.
I would think that you would have to have one hell of a fire to warp your
metal building you built
as to the heat shield, in my past posts I have recomended thin stainless
shimed out from the wall using 1 inch posts so there is ambient air flowing
behind it.
but wood has to get pretty hot to ignite, I think there is a greater danger
from a fire starting because of a wiring problem than of the ambient heat
comming off an electric kiln.
and why do I meet so many potters who say "thats where my woooden building
that burned down was before I learned about safty" I have heard this many
times,
I mean Hot kiln gases / flame + combustable material = building burns down
Donn Buchfinck
Donn Buchfinck on tue 2 mar 99
call up a contractor and ask them about the fire rating of a wood beam vs a
steel one.
the steel heats up and deforms pretty quickly, making the integrity of the
building not safe, wood chars and the flame burns through it slower. it
burns but in a large structure it gives people more time to get out.
I would think that you would have to have one hell of a fire to warp your
metal building you built
as to the heat shield, in my past posts I have recomended thin stainless
shimed out from the wall using 1 inch posts so there is ambient air flowing
behind it.
but wood has to get pretty hot to ignite, I think there is a greater danger
from a fire starting because of a wiring problem than of the ambient heat
comming off an electric kiln.
and why do I meet so many potters who say "thats where my woooden building
that burned down was before I learned about safty" I have heard this many
times,
I mean Hot kiln gases / flame + combustable material = building burns down
Donn Buchfinck
John Jensen on tue 2 mar 99
I have my kilns in a semi enclosed shed attached to my shop...Metal roof and
with one side comprised of the back of the shop the remaining sides have a
wooden lattice. I used two different materials to keep weather out on the
sides behind the kilns, both because I had them lying around: 25 gauge
galvanized sheet metal, and foil covered 3/4" foam insulation. In my case
it seems like a non-critical situation. My main concern was to keep the
driven rain out and provide a little bit of heat shielding. But the foam
board seems like it might be a good general choice...cheap and easy to work
with. But is it really a safe and effective material..I don't know.
John Jensen, mudbug@toad.net
Mudbug Pottery
Annapolis, Md.
John Jensen on tue 2 mar 99
I have my kilns in a semi enclosed shed attached to my shop...Metal roof and
with one side comprised of the back of the shop the remaining sides have a
wooden lattice. I used two different materials to keep weather out on the
sides behind the kilns, both because I had them lying around: 25 gauge
galvanized sheet metal, and foil covered 3/4" foam insulation. In my case
it seems like a non-critical situation. My main concern was to keep the
driven rain out and provide a little bit of heat shielding. But the foam
board seems like it might be a good general choice...cheap and easy to work
with. But is it really a safe and effective material..I don't know.
John Jensen, mudbug@toad.net
Mudbug Pottery
Annapolis, Md.
Robert Jones on tue 2 mar 99
Wow! I might actually be able to contribute something here!:^) Since I
wasn't taking *any* chances with the outbuilding that I've got my (older)
Skutt kiln set up in (it belongs to my Mom,) I formulated a heat shield that
is in many ways like something which would be put behind a wood-burning
stove.
What I did was to take cement backerboard (such as Durock) and fasten it to
the wall with 1/4" lag screws and 1/2" electrical conduit cut into 1.5"
pieces as spacers between the board and the wooden wall. Machine washers
used to spread out the force used to hold the board to the wall (order would
be from the front: lag screw, washer, board, washer, spacer, wall.) In
addition the board is held up off the floor on pieces of common brick to
encourage air-flow behind the shield and up the wall.
Cindy in Alabama
Robert Jones on tue 2 mar 99
Wow! I might actually be able to contribute something here!:^) Since I
wasn't taking *any* chances with the outbuilding that I've got my (older)
Skutt kiln set up in (it belongs to my Mom,) I formulated a heat shield that
is in many ways like something which would be put behind a wood-burning
stove.
What I did was to take cement backerboard (such as Durock) and fasten it to
the wall with 1/4" lag screws and 1/2" electrical conduit cut into 1.5"
pieces as spacers between the board and the wooden wall. Machine washers
used to spread out the force used to hold the board to the wall (order would
be from the front: lag screw, washer, board, washer, spacer, wall.) In
addition the board is held up off the floor on pieces of common brick to
encourage air-flow behind the shield and up the wall.
Cindy in Alabama
Ric Swenson on wed 3 mar 99
Hi All..
Might help to read a CM article from 1979 December pages 36-38 KILN
VENTILATION
.......Author, Ric Swenson
Happy Potting Folks !
--------------------
Donn Buchfinck wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> call up a contractor and ask them about the fire rating of a wood beam vs a
> steel one.
>
> the steel heats up and deforms pretty quickly, making the integrity of the
> building not safe, wood chars and the flame burns through it slower. it
> burns but in a large structure it gives people more time to get out.
>
> I would think that you would have to have one hell of a fire to warp your
> metal building you built
>
> as to the heat shield, in my past posts I have recomended thin stainless
> shimed out from the wall using 1 inch posts so there is ambient air flowing
> behind it.
> but wood has to get pretty hot to ignite, I think there is a greater danger
> from a fire starting because of a wiring problem than of the ambient heat
> comming off an electric kiln.
>
> and why do I meet so many potters who say "thats where my woooden building
> that burned down was before I learned about safty" I have heard this many
> times,
>
> I mean Hot kiln gases / flame + combustable material = building burns down
>
> Donn Buchfinck
| |
|
