=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F6rn?= Straube on wed 17 mar 99
Hi All,
I've been playing with some mostly (read large percentage) wood ash
glazes, and am starting to get somewhere. I've just been making 100 g
test batches up until now, so using a stick to stir things up before use
hasn't been a problem. Stirring up 5 gal could be more of a problem
however (I am using unwashed ash and don't want to get it on my hands).
The obvious (to me anyway) solution is to deflock the glaze, my question
is with what? I would just use bentonite or epson salts for a "normal"
glaze, but this is new to me and I don't know how ash would respond.
I'd appreciate some help.
Thanks
Bjorn Straube
Craig Martell on fri 19 mar 99
Hello Bjorn:
If you haven't worked with unwashed woodash before, you are in for a really
amusing time. Woodash will release an incredible amount of soluble alkali
and turn most glaze suspensions to jello unless they are used up during the
glazing session. You may not need to add anything at all to keep the glaze
in suspension. This release of alkai is such a disgusting event, that I do
the extra work of washing my ash to avoid it. But, I think everyone should
experience this phenomenon first hand. You may not want to mix 5000 grams
or more until you see how your glaze is going to react over a period of a
couple of days. If the glaze becomes too thick from the action of solubles,
don't add water to thin it down to a workable state. This will give too
thin a glaze coat.
Not knowing the composition of your glaze, I can't really make any firm
assuptions as to how it's going to behave. I will say that if it isn't used
up within a few days, it's going to flocc really badly, especially if it's a
"high" ash glaze.
regards, Craig Martell in Oregon
Richard Aerni on sat 20 mar 99
Don't really want to disagress with Craig...he knows so much, and all
that he said below is generally accurate...BUT....here's a way that I've
found to eliminate the jello pudding stage of using unwashed ash. If I'm
going to use the ash for more than one glazing session, what I do is mix
the glaze up the night before, let it set overnight, and then in the
morning pour off the high alkali water that is on top of the settled
glaze. This in essence is washing the ashes while they are part of the
glaze, but it ensures that you won't floc the glaze, and can use it
without thinning for multiple glaze sessions. Of course, you will lose
some of the bleaching halo action from around the runs, but since I do
this with my oxide colored ash glazes, that's not what I'm looking for
anyway.
Good luck,
Richard Aerni
Bloomfield, NY
Craig Martell wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hello Bjorn:
>
> If you haven't worked with unwashed woodash before, you are in for a really
> amusing time. Woodash will release an incredible amount of soluble alkali
> and turn most glaze suspensions to jello unless they are used up during the
> glazing session. You may not need to add anything at all to keep the glaze
> in suspension. This release of alkai is such a disgusting event, that I do
> the extra work of washing my ash to avoid it. But, I think everyone should
> experience this phenomenon first hand. You may not want to mix 5000 grams
> or more until you see how your glaze is going to react over a period of a
> couple of days. If the glaze becomes too thick from the action of solubles,
> don't add water to thin it down to a workable state. This will give too
> thin a glaze coat.
>
> Not knowing the composition of your glaze, I can't really make any firm
> assuptions as to how it's going to behave. I will say that if it isn't used
> up within a few days, it's going to flocc really badly, especially if it's a
> "high" ash glaze.
>
> regards, Craig Martell in Oregon
Craig Martell on sun 21 mar 99
Richard Aerni says:
.here's a way that I've
>found to eliminate the jello pudding stage of using unwashed ash. If I'm
>going to use the ash for more than one glazing session, what I do is mix
>the glaze up the night before, let it set overnight, and then in the
>morning pour off the high alkali water that is on top of the settled
>glaze.
Hello Richard:
Glad that you sent this in. I hadn't really thought about this method much
because I'm usually a couple of barrels of washed ash ahead. It reminded me
of something in Phil Roger's book about a method he uses when he's in a
hurry and is testing new ash, or just plain out. He sieves the ash down to
the mesh size he wants and then washes it once, I think, and then adds the
correct weight to the glaze. This eliminates time consuming drying of the
ash etc.
Thanks for sharing your method it would really cut down processing time for
folks who would rather make pots than wash ash. Makes a lotta sense!
later, Craig Martell in Oregon
Richard Aerni on sun 21 mar 99
Craig,
To clarify a bit...when I mix the glaze up the night before, I mix it
with extra water, so that there is plenty to pour off in the morning.
Generally I find that when I've decanted what is sitting on top, the
glaze is just about the right consistancy for me, but then I spray my ash
glazes.
Also, I generally prefer using unwashed ash when I can...I like the
variations it gives, and the haloing effect around the runs. I only use
the washed/decanted ash when I know my ash glaze will be around for more
than a day or two.
However, I know there are many ways to get to that good place, and can
appreciate how you do it. I treasure the pot of yours that I've got.
My best,
Richard Aerni
Bloomfield, NY
Craig Martell wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Richard Aerni says:
>
> .here's a way that I've
> >found to eliminate the jello pudding stage of using unwashed ash. If I'm
> >going to use the ash for more than one glazing session, what I do is mix
> >the glaze up the night before, let it set overnight, and then in the
> >morning pour off the high alkali water that is on top of the settled
> >glaze.
>
> Hello Richard:
>
> Glad that you sent this in. I hadn't really thought about this method much
> because I'm usually a couple of barrels of washed ash ahead. It reminded me
> of something in Phil Roger's book about a method he uses when he's in a
> hurry and is testing new ash, or just plain out. He sieves the ash down to
> the mesh size he wants and then washes it once, I think, and then adds the
> correct weight to the glaze. This eliminates time consuming drying of the
> ash etc.
>
> Thanks for sharing your method it would really cut down processing time for
> folks who would rather make pots than wash ash. Makes a lotta sense!
>
> later, Craig Martell in Oregon
Dorothy Weber on mon 22 mar 99
I hate to write this and then jinx my glazes, but I use up to 50% Oak ash in
several glazes and don't wash it at all. I just sieve the dry ash. I have
never experienced the flocculation problem being discussed but would be
interested to know why you all think this happens so I can be ready. At this
point I don't want to fix it if it ain't broke.
| |
|
