The Allens on thu 18 mar 99
I'm doing some work that uses an iron wash or homemade underglaze on bisque.
The work is sponged off leaving the color in the relief areas. I hate to =
use
the electricity required to do another 04 firing just to fix the color. =
What's
the lowest I can go and still have the color set to it won't run when I =
glaze
it?
Carla Allen -
ridgerun=40scrtc.com
David Hendley on fri 19 mar 99
At 06:15 PM 3/18/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I'm doing some work that uses an iron wash or homemade underglaze on bisque.
>The work is sponged off leaving the color in the relief areas. I hate to use
>the electricity required to do another 04 firing just to fix the color.
What's
>the lowest I can go and still have the color set to it won't run when I glaze
>it?
My experience is that washes do not "run" when sponged
off to show texture and than glazed over.
(cone 07 bisque, cone 10 stoneware).
Have you tried just glazing without firing again?
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
hendley@tyler.net
http://www.farmpots.com
eden@sover.net on sun 21 mar 99
Hi Carla,
As I understand it the deal is that you have to fire higher than the glaze
firing to "fix" an underglaze design so that the glaze cannot move it.
That's the theory behind the 04 bisq-06 glaze process recommended on all
the underglaze bottles. And it doesn't matter if it is homemade or not.
The operative factor here is how much the glaze moves. In order to become
clear the glaze has to move the tiniest bit, isn't that true? Anyway I'm
under the impression that all clear glazes will move a bit downward on a
vertical wall. And it will carry with it something sitting underneath
unless that something has been fired hotter than the glaze so it is not
interested in attaching and moving along with the glaze.
In practice, rather than repeating the 04 firing, I either decorate on the
raw ware or do a preliminary low bisq to make handling the stuff easier, or
a combination......but the last firing of everything before the glaze
firing is the 04 bisq. Also there are individual exceptions, stuff that
can go on right under the glaze and never seem to move, it depends on what
it is.
Eleanora
............
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@sover.net
Susan Fox Hirschmann on mon 22 mar 99
In a message dated 3/21/99 9:12:14 PM EST, eden@sover.net writes:
<< The operative factor here is how much the glaze moves. In order to become
clear the glaze has to move the tiniest bit, isn't that true? Anyway I'm
under the impression that all clear glazes will move a bit downward on a
vertical wall. And it will carry with it something sitting underneath
unless that something has been fired hotter than the glaze so it is not
interested in attaching and moving along with the glaze.
>>
Yes, i agree with you that the glaze will move, a good reason for either
thinning a too thick clear glaze/ and or applying a thin coat of that clear
glaze.
i have done quite a bit of underglaze painting, and find that each piece needs
to be strategically held to dip in the clear glaze, so that the brush stokes
used to cover those finger marks, does not create a thicker area of glaze
interfering with the design.
I do this with 04 bisque, and cone 6-8 glaze, oxidation. Because i do a long
soak, and with higher fire, i do believe the glazes will move even more than
lower fire/.
True?
susan
susan fox hirschmann
annandale, va
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