Sheldon Bieber on fri 19 mar 99
Hello,
Does anyone have any idea how I could use ground glass as a glaze or
part of a glaze at cone 10 reduction. I'm afraid that if I used glass
by itself it would burn out. What might be added to it to raise its
melting point? Where could I buy suitable ground glass? Does anyone
where I could get mica in a ground or a granular state to add directly
to my clay?
Thank you, Shelly Bieber
Barney Adams on sat 20 mar 99
I've used color glass marbles inside bowls. They give a transparent
fill of the bottom, but I was worried about food safety. I fired to ^6
in an electric kiln with no problem.
Barney
Sheldon Bieber wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hello,
> Does anyone have any idea how I could use ground glass as a glaze or
> part of a glaze at cone 10 reduction. I'm afraid that if I used glass
> by itself it would burn out. What might be added to it to raise its
> melting point? Where could I buy suitable ground glass? Does anyone
> where I could get mica in a ground or a granular state to add directly
> to my clay?
>
> Thank you, Shelly Bieber
Andrew Buck on sun 21 mar 99
Shelly,
Seattle Pottery Supply sells recycled glass. It is ground up and sieved
to at least two sizes. They sell it in green, amber, and clear glass.
The name on the bags that I have is Vitrohue by the Trivitro Company. The
sizes I have are a 70 mesh and one that is labeled #16. It is used by
some brick makers to lower the vitrification temperature of their brick.
Andy Buck
Raincreek Pottery
Port Orchard, Washington
On Fri, 19 Mar 1999, Sheldon Bieber wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hello,
> Does anyone have any idea how I could use ground glass as a glaze or
> part of a glaze at cone 10 reduction. I'm afraid that if I used glass
> by itself it would burn out. What might be added to it to raise its
> melting point? Where could I buy suitable ground glass? Does anyone
> where I could get mica in a ground or a granular state to add directly
> to my clay?
>
> Thank you, Shelly Bieber
>
Joy Holdread on sun 21 mar 99
> ---------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hello,
> Does anyone have any idea how I could use ground glass as a glaze or
> part of a glaze at cone 10 reduction. I'm afraid that if I used glass
> by itself it would burn out. What might be added to it to raise its
> melting point? Where could I buy suitable ground glass? Does anyone
> where I could get mica in a ground or a granular state to add directly
> to my clay?
>
> Thank you, Shelly Bieber
>
I use smashed colored glass for special effects. They craze used alone or on
top of other glazes. This of course limits the functional uses but I 'm using
the glass as decorative effects on non functional items. A friend gave me
some red glass form a smashed goblet I found the color fired out at temps
above bisque. I've used stained glass fragments also, the blues & greens are
the most stable.
I remember reading about southern potters who ground glass into cullet & made
their own glazes in an old ceramic monthly.
Joy Sleepless in Tucson
Lee Love on mon 22 mar 99
I've used antique cranberry and cobalt glass on the handles and ears of
pots. This old glass melts at a lower temperature than most modern
glass. It drips nicely at ^9-10. I've used it in sagger firings and it
will run at these temps too, but is often semi-opaque instead of clear.
/(o\' Lee In Saint Paul, Minnesota USA 0
\o)/' mailto:Akitajin@hachiko.com
'http://hachiko.com
NakedClay@aol.com on mon 22 mar 99
Hi Sheldon and Barney, and other ClayArt Glass Hounds!
I use cuttle (rough, crushed glass) from beer, cosmetic, and other bottles
which litter the roadside here in the desert. Like both Sheldon and Barney, I
use this glass in the bottoms of vases, candle surrounds, and other non-food
wares that I make. I think that bottle glass would probably be OK for mugs and
high-fired food-use ceramics. Since most beverages are served from the
bottles, it seems that this glass, if used with a "safe" glaze and clay body,
will be allright. My suggestion is to get a finished piece tested by Alfred
U., or one of the other toxic-materials testing labs, which are listed in the
ClayArt Archives.
As far as other tricks to cuttle firing, lay a small piece of copper wire
under the cuttle, and fire the piece. I've had some spectcular results doing
this both at cone 6 oxy, and cone 10 reduction. I've also laid cuttle over
impressions on tiles (flower petals, leaves, etc.). Always add cuttle after
applying the glaze, when placing cuttle in impressed, bisqued clay.
I often use other found glass, too, such as automotive glass, window shards,
and broken decorative glassware. Be careful when handling broken glass!
Experiment with this material, using old kiln shelves with lots of kiln wash!
Different kinds of glass have different melting characteristics. Colored glass
seems to melt faster, and flow moreso than the clear varieties. Some
decorative glass has lead in it--I don't recommend its use with food wares.
Go For the Glass!
Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
NakedClay@aol.com on tue 23 mar 99
OOPS!
In my last post, I referred to rough-crushed glass as "cuttle." I really meant
"cullet." Sometimes my fingers just don't know what my mind thinks!
Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
It's spring here in the Mojave! The cats are mating wildly up on the ridge.
I'm not quite prepared for this form of "sex on the terrace."
Peet Robison on wed 24 mar 99
I hate to be a nit-picker but I have to say this; scrap glass is known
as cullet, not cuttle.
Also, even if you find a source for cullet, say Bud bottles, the chance
of having the same formula for each bottle are slim. If you don't mind
serendipity then go for it!
Peet, blowing glass in Santa Fe, and picking nits. (what is a nit,
anyway?)
Percy Skuy on thu 25 mar 99
Peet Robison wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I hate to be a nit-picker but I have to say this; scrap glass is known
> as cullet, not cuttle.
> Also, even if you find a source for cullet, say Bud bottles, the chance
> of having the same formula for each bottle are slim. If you don't mind
> serendipity then go for it!
> Peet, blowing glass in Santa Fe, and picking nits. (what is a nit,
> anyway?)
A nit is another word for louse (singular of lice) that tend to frequent the
hair of people, and have to be picked out of the hair by hand and/or with
the use of a fine-toothed comb!!! Hence the term "nit-picking" when
referring to picking on the littlest detail of something!
Lice travel easily from head to head in a school or crowd-type situation,
so it is not uncommon for kids to come home from school with headlice--much
to the chagrin of the parents!
Just a bit of trivia!
Elsa --in Toronto, where spring is still trying to make it's way...slowly.
steve and mary on thu 25 mar 99
From doing glass fusing I know that you have to heat to about
1100 degrees F befreo getting a full touch-fuse.
For getting ground glass, Bullseye makes their 'frit' in many different
particle sizes, including a sandlike texture. You may try to experiment
with that. Remember, you can't mix coefficients of expansion between
glass brands. If you stick with Bullseye, use only Bullseye. If you mix
glass brands, they WILL break apart after annealing.
You can pick up a big jar of Bulleye frit (in one color) at any stained
glass shop (look in phone book under glass) for about $12.
This is exactly what I like about clay people vs glass people- much more
daring and willing to experiment! Please let us all know the results of
your glass adventure.
Mary Dixon
Blue Dog Studio
Amy L Reynolds on fri 26 mar 99
Hi, I'm new here but wanted to respond to the glass glaze discussion. I
have been experimenting with both marbles and stained glass shards at all
different temps. At very low temps, (06) stained glass stays true
colorwise and certain brands such as Bullseye are specially formulated to
be compatible together (ie no crazing). I have as yet been able to
concoct a clear glaze that is compatible with these glasses, so the edges
still craze. I still don't think these or marbles are foodsafe because
even up to cone 10 they crack alot and can cause little glass shards. I
have cut myself on these and so have customers--that does not make them
happy. Let me know if any of you can achieve a smooth surface. Thanks,
Amy
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Barney Adams on sat 27 mar 99
Hi,
with the marbles I've used at ^6 I can get a clean surface if the surface of
glass at the bottom of the bowl is thin enough. I'm using the colored marbles
that are used flat on one side not the round type I played with as a child.
I've put 4 in the bottom of the bowl. One green, one light blue, one dark
blue
and one like a oil slick. The colors maintained and were spread out in even
areas around the bottom like pie slices of each color. The thicker the glass
the more it cracks however most of my cracks appear below the surface.
I dont trust them for food safe. I've been temped to come up with a form
to try to melt the marble down the side. If I can figure out how to attempt
it with out ruining my shelves I'll let you know.
Barney
Amy L Reynolds wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi, I'm new here but wanted to respond to the glass glaze discussion. I
> have been experimenting with both marbles and stained glass shards at all
> different temps. At very low temps, (06) stained glass stays true
> colorwise and certain brands such as Bullseye are specially formulated to
> be compatible together (ie no crazing). I have as yet been able to
> concoct a clear glaze that is compatible with these glasses, so the edges
> still craze. I still don't think these or marbles are foodsafe because
> even up to cone 10 they crack alot and can cause little glass shards. I
> have cut myself on these and so have customers--that does not make them
> happy. Let me know if any of you can achieve a smooth surface. Thanks,
> Amy
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
Ditmar/Gayle on mon 29 mar 99
Bottles can vary in their COE ( coefficient of expansion ) due to the
manufacturing process. Bottles that come off the line after a new charge of
glass may have a slightly different COE than later ones. As the tank of
glass sits, some of the fluxes burn off, changing the chemistry. Due to
this, unless it is mixed, there will be differences from the top to the
bottom of the tank, too.
Marbles, or whatever glass is used to experiment, will crack. Just like a
glaze that doesn't "fit", the COE of the glass is too different from the
clay. The thicker you get, the more internal stresses there are and you get
pieces and chips coming off. Thinner layers of glass will crack, but
chances are better that there won't be any bits coming loose.
From Alohaland, Ditmar.
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