Chris Campbell on fri 19 mar 99
Hi -
Thanks to Eleanora Eden for explaining this alternative to paper clay. If
anyone is interested in seeing her work, look on pgs 80 -81in the Creative
Pottery Book by Michelle Coakes for some lovely photos.
One question I have is whether I have to be concerned about what kind of wood
was used to make the powder. I have a friend who is a wood worker and uses all
types of wood including some treated wood. I have a vented kiln so I suspect
it doesn't matter but am I right?
Chris - in Carolina - where it is finally (?) Spring!!
Richard Aerni on sat 20 mar 99
Back around 1980, I made a series of large pots using stained clay with
additions (30-50% by volume) of woodworker's studio floor sweepings. All
kinds of wood, all kinds of sizes (tried to rough screen out the splinter
material). The wood stuff just fired out, making some really lightweight
pots for their size, and providing that pre-antiqued look. Really, I
thought they were some of my nicest pots to date. So take the wood bits,
experiment, just remember you'll lose plasticity and maybe you should
wear gloves when throwing to eliminate splinters.
And I think you should stay away from the treated wood...they use some
pretty awful stuff in there...nothing I'd like to be breathing in the
studio.
Good luck,
Richard Aerni
Bloomfield, NY
Chris Campbell wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi -
>
> Thanks to Eleanora Eden for explaining this alternative to paper clay. If
> anyone is interested in seeing her work, look on pgs 80 -81in the Creative
> Pottery Book by Michelle Coakes for some lovely photos.
>
> One question I have is whether I have to be concerned about what kind of wood
> was used to make the powder. I have a friend who is a wood worker and uses all
> types of wood including some treated wood. I have a vented kiln so I suspect
> it doesn't matter but am I right?
>
> Chris - in Carolina - where it is finally (?) Spring!!
Brian Crocker on sun 21 mar 99
G'day Richard,
Just butting in ,,
Yes the treated wood could have ,
Copper, Chrome and Arsenic in it not good to handle and even very bad to breath
when it burns.
Your wood inclusion sounds interesting does it have similar features to
paper clay? ie., can it be joined easily?
Regards Brian.
At 06:14 PM2:10: 20/03/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Back around 1980, I made a series of large pots using stained clay with
>additions (30-50% by volume) of woodworker's studio floor sweepings. All
>kinds of wood, all kinds of sizes (tried to rough screen out the splinter
>material). The wood stuff just fired out, making some really lightweight
>pots for their size, and providing that pre-antiqued look. Really, I
>thought they were some of my nicest pots to date. So take the wood bits,
>experiment, just remember you'll lose plasticity and maybe you should
>wear gloves when throwing to eliminate splinters.
>
>And I think you should stay away from the treated wood...they use some
>pretty awful stuff in there...nothing I'd like to be breathing in the
>studio.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Richard Aerni
>Bloomfield, NY
>
>
>Chris Campbell wrote:
>>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> Hi -
>>
>> Thanks to Eleanora Eden for explaining this alternative to paper clay. If
>> anyone is interested in seeing her work, look on pgs 80 -81in the Creative
>> Pottery Book by Michelle Coakes for some lovely photos.
>>
>> One question I have is whether I have to be concerned about what kind of wood
>> was used to make the powder. I have a friend who is a wood worker and
uses all
>> types of wood including some treated wood. I have a vented kiln so I suspect
>> it doesn't matter but am I right?
>>
>> Chris - in Carolina - where it is finally (?) Spring!!
>
>
Brian Crocker
4 Erica Street,
Tea Tree Gully 5091,
South Australia,
Australia. {e.mail} crocker@dove.com.au
" When a Potter Gives or Sells Pots. Part of a Life is Given Also " CR
OC.
Richard Aerni on sun 21 mar 99
Brian,
Don't really know whether it is similar to paper clay or not...I've never
really done much with paper clay. This clay joined up fine. The pots I
made were thrown in sections, joined when wet, then rethrown. No problem
with separating sections ever appeared. Keep in mind that there was
little plasticity to the mix...if Eleanora is using wood pulp in order to
make the clay do more, that is not how I would describe my woody clay.
What I was looking for was the pits that would appear when the wood burnt
out, as well as the possibility of some residual ash glaze deposits,
which never appeared.
Good luck to you,
Richard
Brian Crocker wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> G'day Richard,
> Just butting in ,,
>
> Yes the treated wood could have ,
>
> Copper, Chrome and Arsenic in it not good to handle and even very bad to breat
> when it burns.
>
> Your wood inclusion sounds interesting does it have similar features to
> paper clay? ie., can it be joined easily?
>
> Regards Brian.
>
> At 06:14 PM2:10: 20/03/99 EST, you wrote:
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Back around 1980, I made a series of large pots using stained clay with
> >additions (30-50% by volume) of woodworker's studio floor sweepings. All
> >kinds of wood, all kinds of sizes (tried to rough screen out the splinter
> >material). The wood stuff just fired out, making some really lightweight
> >pots for their size, and providing that pre-antiqued look. Really, I
> >thought they were some of my nicest pots to date. So take the wood bits,
> >experiment, just remember you'll lose plasticity and maybe you should
> >wear gloves when throwing to eliminate splinters.
> >
> >And I think you should stay away from the treated wood...they use some
> >pretty awful stuff in there...nothing I'd like to be breathing in the
> >studio.
eden@sover.net on fri 26 mar 99
Just a re-post in case there's still confusion....I am using the powder
that comes out of a sander. I am doing it instead of using toilet paper as
it is so much cheaper. Like, free. It has all the good qualities that
paperclay has as far as I know but no fibrousness.
Eleanora
............
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@sover.net
Robert Santerre on sat 27 mar 99
Am I mis-informed here? I thought one of the important features of paperclay
(made with paper fiber pulp) was that the paper fibers were important for
strength and wet-ability in the dry state. Thus 2 dry pieces can be joined
because the paper fibers allow water to seep into the dry clay, but prevent
cracks from extending deep into the body of the piece. Seems like fine sawdust
wouldn't do this as well as fibrous paper pulp. What say you paperclay guru's?
Bob
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
eden@sover.net wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Just a re-post in case there's still confusion....I am using the powder
> that comes out of a sander. I am doing it instead of using toilet paper as
> it is so much cheaper. Like, free. It has all the good qualities that
> paperclay has as far as I know but no fibrousness.
>
> Eleanora
>
> ............
> Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
> Paradise Hill
> Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@sover.net
Tom Buck on tue 30 mar 99
Bob:
Not so long ago the chief way to make newsprint was to convert
logs into "groundwood" and use it at 85% along with 15% sulfite (chemical)
woodpulp to hold the mechanically-made fibres together into a sheet. So
while it aint as pretty as toilet paper woodpulp fibres, sanding dust
would be as fine as "groundwood pulp" (made by fraying a log against at
big grindstone) and this wood dust would likely produce a
strength-enhanced "paper" clay.
What's needed are suitably sized cellulosic fibres of a reasonable
smallness, and sanding dust would would qualify just as well as newsprint
(still mostly made from mechanically-produced wood fibres). The main
difference between mechanical woodpulp and chemical woodpulp is the
removal (by chemical means) of the "glue" that the tree makes to hold the
micelles (cellulosic fibres) together.
So, fine sanding dust will work just as well as repulped paper,
with the added advantage that one doesn't have to go through the repulping
step needed with egg cartons, toilet paper, office paper, etc.
If you can find sanding dust, go with it. BFN. Tom.
Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
& snailmail: 373 East 43rd St. Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).
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