Earl Brunner on fri 2 apr 99
I have a friend that is fairly skilled at making historical
reproductions, he has done this for muesums, films, etc. He is not very
computer literate, and asked me if I would send the question. He is
participating in the renovation of a historical building, of which he is
replacing the original clay floor tiles. He is using local clay, I
believe it is the same stuff as the original tiles. On a volunteer
basis different groups have been meeting at his studio over the past
year of so to help hand make the tiles. The problem is in firing the
shear number of tiles (100,000 plus) He is considering building a
scaled down tunnel kiln that maintains the max. temperature (around 1800
F) in the center and the tiles are pushed in green at one end and come
out fired at the other. The tiles will be unglazed. Before he commits
himself to this design, he would like to make sure he is covering all
the concerns/considerations/angles of the problem. I told him I would
pose it to the group. Any cautions, ideas, problems? He probably has
the space for it. I think the main concern is the volume per hour/fuel
consumption/ time factors, and being able to get them out the other side
in one peice not heat shocked. He was figuring on a width of about 8
tiles side by side, I think the tiles are 6 inch squares, about an inch
thick.
Thanks
--
Earl Brunner
bruec@anv.net
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
George Koller on sat 3 apr 99
Earl,
I have no experience with kilns such as you are asking advice on - but we
are hard at work on a process that I think might be of some interest to
people in the renovation field. We have the general ability to translate
digital images (ie scan/photo) into tool movements. The tool movements can
be used for a number process steps - most particularly to remove glaze (as
in Sgraffitto).
The thing here is that there is a minimum penalty for doing one-of-a-kinds.
It is rather like having a "virtual mold", and works with all kinds of
glazes on all kinds of surfaces including slab rolled tiles.
George Koller
In Sturgeon Bay, WI where the water level is about 2 feet below the normal
and I may have to buy a bigger sailboat this spring (for my wife's safety).
Earl Brunner wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have a friend that is fairly skilled at making historical
> reproductions, he has done this for muesums, films, etc. He is not very
> computer literate, and asked me if I would send the question. He is
> participating in the renovation of a historical building, of which he is
> replacing the original clay floor tiles. He is using local clay, I
> believe it is the same stuff as the original tiles. On a volunteer
> basis different groups have been meeting at his studio over the past
> year of so to help hand make the tiles. The problem is in firing the
> shear number of tiles (100,000 plus) He is considering building a
> scaled down tunnel kiln that maintains the max. temperature (around 1800
> F) in the center and the tiles are pushed in green at one end and come
> out fired at the other. The tiles will be unglazed. Before he commits
> himself to this design, he would like to make sure he is covering all
> the concerns/considerations/angles of the problem. I told him I would
> pose it to the group. Any cautions, ideas, problems? He probably has
> the space for it. I think the main concern is the volume per hour/fuel
> consumption/ time factors, and being able to get them out the other side
> in one peice not heat shocked. He was figuring on a width of about 8
> tiles side by side, I think the tiles are 6 inch squares, about an inch
> thick.
> Thanks
> --
> Earl Brunner
> bruec@anv.net
> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
Robert Burgis on sat 18 mar 06
Hi folks. Have made a number of 6 by 6 inch tiles. Have about 50 of
them. Will fire to cone 6 for glaze. Need to bisque and glaze the for a
wall project. Any suggestions on loading and firing of bisque and glaze
kiln. How many tiles can I stack on top of each other in bisque? Is
firing on edge better for no warping? Thanks in advance for the info,
Bob
Marcia Selsor on sat 18 mar 06
Tiles are a lot of Mass. I would use one of Vince's old suggestions
for firing large pieces.
Make some small coils, and place them in between your tiles. 4-5
ought to be enough to
avoid slumping. I have used this idea on larger architectural pieces.
I think it is best to use tile setters for tiles.
If this is a one shot deal, then improvise with the coils. You could
probably go 4-5 high since no glaze is involved.
>
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Paul Lewing on sat 18 mar 06
on 3/18/06 5:20 AM, Robert Burgis at rburgis@PIPCOM.COM wrote:
> Is firing on edge better for no warping?
Yes. It's also safer in that they're less likely to blow up it they're a
bit damp.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
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