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make a wedging table

updated sat 3 apr 99

 

Mason Batchelder on fri 2 apr 99

Dear Michael,

Some people like wedging boards with plaster, some with cement ,and a lot of
other materials that some have found convenient and available under their
circumstances.Many who use plaster cover it with a heavy cotton duck canvas
folded army bed making style and nailed or screwed underneath the bottom.

I personally build mine out of 2"X4"'S to make an open bottom box with at
least 24" front to back (MORE IF YOU HAVE THE SPACE) and a minimum 36" long
.Then position it on a smooth surface like a sheet of formica or glass .

Now, take a piece of wood like 3/8"plywood that is larger than the outside of
the 2"X4" form by a margin of at least !"all around (hint add 2"s to outside
measurement) and cut a hole the size of the rim of 1 of the cups in the
center of the 3'8"thick plywood(USE THE PLACEMENT OF THE CUPS AS A GUIDE)
sheet to allow finish pouring and 4 smaller holes the size of a drill bit
after the cups are glued down to release air when the plaster is poured into
the cup sized hole in the center after the 3/8"thick plywood sheet that will
have the cups glued to 1 side .

Then ,using plastic (solo brand bathroom is what I use) 4 OZ. cups measure 2"
inside the 2"X4" rectangle and glue (using elmers white glue on the cup top
rims) down to the 3/8"plywood the 4oz cups in an overall pattern 1 cup
distance rim to rim apart.They are not to be closer than 2" from the edges
if this board with cups glued upside down to it the plywood fits upside(CUPS
DOWN) into the open box (when the cups glued down have dried 24 hours) is
tested inverted onto the top of the 2"X4" open "BOX"atop a sheet of formica
or glass.

Now 24 hours after gluing the solo cups to the lid, using old clay you will
not reuse, smush a coil around the lower edge of the 2"X4"'s where they meet
the glass or formica to retain any seepage when you pour the plaster.


Now the bigger you make the size of the wedging form the more of an issue
the weighting down of the form against the glass will be a problem so the
need for "C" clamps or bricks to hold the form while pouring must be
anticipated so as to prevent plaster from flooding out underneath the form
bottom.(you will want to pour plaster when thin to fill all the voids).

Now spray the 3'8"plywood board ( with the cups glued allover ,1 cup apart
and 2" from the edges -UPSIDE DOWN GLUED DOWN) with a mold release.

Now you are ready to mix #1 potter's plaster enough to fill the bottom 1/2
full of plaster.Calculate the amount based on the size forms you will be
using.Quickly,after you have finished the first pour, this now flip the "lid
"( the 3/8"plywood with glued attached upside down solo cups) CUP SIDE DOWN
into the plaster already poured.Position it so there are no cups within 2"of
the inside walls(TO MAKE THE SIDES STRONG) of the 1/2 plaster filled base.

The final result will be a glass smoth top with cup shaped negative void
holes on the backside that allow it a generous drying surface and the weight
is kept to a minimum all framed in the plywood .

A covering of heavy cotton duck will keep the plaster from chipping as it
gets much use.Legs now can be added using 2"X4"'S only leave 1 tall enough
to rise a couple feet above the board surface height to attach a wire on a
turnbuckle to cut clay with
( SEE SOME OF THE COMMERCIAL WEDGING TABLES IF THIS IS NOT CLEAR)with shelves
below to store stuff and solidify the structure.

A little wood around the screwed to the 2"X4" frame (underside of the plaster
framed form) in the way of small triangles in each corner will keep the
plaster from falling thru when using it to wedge

If the form is to be against a wall make the 2"X4" frame longer on one of
the long sides so you can screw it into the studs(MEASURE THIS BEFORE CUTTING
FRAME TO ALIGN PROPERLY).

I hope this is clear enough to follow.I have used this for years and built
one along these lines (only for many to use about 5'x5')with the Alpind
metal table as inspiration with 4 wires coming off the center.

Margaret Arial
Lexington,S.C.(100 miles from 2001 NCECA site)