Phyllis Gibson on fri 9 apr 99
I don't do a lot of throwing but when I do, it seems like I have huge
problems cutting off the bat.
I use fresh clear water and cut through the base twice. Then I either leave
the piece on the bat to pop off or I move it immediately off the bat onto
another surface. Both ways have presented problems for me.
I decorate the tops of my pieces with hand built objects. So, if I leave the
piece to pop off the bat, the bottoms are not smooth. I cannot trim the
piece because the top is already decorated. So, I smooth the piece holding
it leather hard with my hands with a sponge and trimming tools.
If I move the piece wet from the bat it is usually disfigured in some way.
Are there suggestions for another technique from the list?
Thank you so much.
From Alabama where the Dogwood trees are in full bloom.
Hanne Bjorklund on sun 11 apr 99
Hi Phyllis Gibson, in Alabamaland.
It seems to me that you could use a large bat, with sandpaper glued to it,
to finish the bottom of your pots when they are DRY. Just start up the
wheel with the sandpaper bat in place, and while holding the pot in both
hands, gently set it on the rotating sandpaper surface and keep it there
till the bottom is smooth enough to be finished with a few wipes of a
sponge. Be careful of the dust, wear a mask.
John Jensen on mon 12 apr 99
As far as my understanding goes, a mask is not really an adequate protection
against the dust of dry clay, unless it's a super dooper mask. In my attempt
to keep my environment as safe as possible (within reason) I try never to do
anything to create dust which can be done any other way. From time to time,
when I do have to create dust I make a great effort to create a draft to
the outdoors and stay upwind.
>to finish the bottom of your pots when they are DRY. Just start up the
>wheel with the sandpaper bat in place, and while holding the pot in both
>hands,. Be careful of the dust, wear a mask.
John Jensen, email@example.com
Don Goodrich on mon 12 apr 99
I'm not sure if it applies to what you're doing, but here's how I dealt
with a similar problem. I make saucer-shaped sconces (visit url below to see
what I'm referring to), and have found it best to attach their candle cups to
the rim while the clay is still somewhat soft. This interferes with the edge
I'd normally rest a saucer on for trimming once it's leather hard. For
trimming the foot of the "saucer" I invert a flowerpot tall enough to support
it from the center. I stick both together, and to the wheelhead, with dabs of
clay. The candle cup is safely raised above the wheelhead, and the flowerpot
is narrow enough not to interfere with the cup.
If your work can be supported from inside while inverted, without
interfering with the attached decorations, perhaps a smoother foot could be
made. Perhaps you could throw and bisque a custom support just for this
If the attachments prevent support from inside, perhaps they're strong
enough to resist breaking off if the work is supported from the sides (as
with a Giffin Grip) while the top is resting on various thicknesses of
sponge. I often use this technique for trimming vessels with non-level tops.
Hope this helps,
Don Goodrich in Zion, Illinois where the trees are just considering
Phyllis Gibson wrote:
>I decorate the tops of my pieces with hand built objects. So, if I leave the
>piece to pop off the bat, the bottoms are not smooth. I cannot trim the
>piece because the top is already decorated. So, I smooth the piece holding
>it leather hard with my hands with a sponge and trimming tools.
>If I move the piece wet from the bat it is usually disfigured in some way.
>Are there suggestions for another technique from the list?