Vlado Vinkovic on sat 8 may 99
"Valerie M. Holmes" wrote:
> Thanks for the advice about creating a flowing effect in my glazes. I
> usually brush my glazes and dip the clear glazes. I will definetly start
> experimenting. I also would greatly appreciate some cone 03 glaze
> recipies, I think it's time to start learning to make my own. Thanks again
> and I hope those chicken pox have gone away!
>
> Valerie
Hi, Val,
Sorry I took so long to get back to you - I am still trying to catch up.
Anyway, I looked up those glazes for you - I don't use them much as I mostly
work in stoneware, but I mix them for people in our pottery group.Greg Daly's
book: Glazes and glazing techniques ( Kangaroo Press 1995,96) is a great source
of glazes, flowing effects and application suggestions with wonderful pics.Only
one thing he does not emphasize: PLEASE, PLEASE AVOID BARIUM ( he uses it
freely - substitute for .75% strontium).
Thus is from his book:
EARTHENWARE, cone 03
frit 4064 75
potash feldspar 16
whiting 3
talc 2.5
silica 2.5
kaolin 1
by itself gives reliable clear
add: rutile 10 & copper carb. 4 for green
or iron oxide 4 & rutile 10 for warm brown
or rutile 10 & copper carb 2 & manganese dioxide (another nasty )3 for
metallic grey
works well with addition of commercial stains try 6-8% stain
also try cobalt carb 2 & copper carb 4 for blue green
cobalt carb 4 for blue
potassium dichromate 6 for orange
other base to try is:
frit 4110 90
pot. feldspar 4
whiting 2
silica 3
kaolin 1
I didn't try that yet but copper carb 4% should give turquoise
you can also try other standard colorants as the first glaze.
It is convenient to test your base with different colorants at the same time as
it saves lots of measuring, washing etc., you can test compatibility (usually
they work well together).
I usually mix a small quantity of base to pouring consistency, divide it to
equal parts by volume and add % of colorants.
does this make sense?Well, let me know.
I will also check my book for some other recipes
good luck,Andrea
| |
|
