Scott James on mon 10 may 99
Hey listers,
I am trying my hand at underglaze paints, but my first try didn't go as
expected.
I am using Duncan underglaze paints. The bottles say apply to greenware or
04 bisque and then fire to 04. Then apply clear glaze and follow directions
of glaze. The materials sheet from duncan say that most of the colors can
be fired to cone 5. The colors I am using should fire to cone 5 with little
change.
Anyway, I applied the underglaze to a bisqued piece then applied a
transparent glaze over top (no firing in between.) I fired to cone 5. Some
of the underglaze came out ok (it looks like the part that was applied a
little heavier.) The rest has burned out or ran and created a nice gray
color.
Any tips on what I should do on my next try? My ideas are -- 1. try
reapplying the paints on the same piece and fire to 04 and see what it does.
2. try applying the paints to greenware, fire to cone 04, then apply the
transparent glaze and fire to cone 5. 3. apply the paints to 04
bisqueware, fire to 04, glaze with transparent, then fire to cone 5. 4.
scrap the whole idea and give up :-) (just kidding)
Please help. It is so frustrating to wait all day for the kiln to cool and
then be dissapointed. I guess that is what it's all about though (at least
till you get it right. :-) I am wondering, had I fired to 04 first after
applying the underglaze, will that set the underglaze and keep it from
moving when refiring to cone 5 with the transparent glaze?
Any help or experiences anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
Including products you have used and had success with and techniques that
work for you.
Thanks,
Scott J.
dave morrison on tue 11 may 99
we recently did a tile installation using products purchased through
minnesota clay usa. i we applied them to bisqued tiles, and then fired to
cone 05. the only problems we had were too thick an application of clear,
it turned out cloudy on a few tiles. we didn't pre fire the tiles before
applying the clear, which we also bought from mn clay. their info states
that the underglazes can be fired up to cone nine i believe, but that a few
colors, like red ofcourse, will burn out. i brushed the clear on without
problems, but you could also try dabbing, making sure not to re-wet the
underglaze. perhaps your underglaze paints fluxed causing the bleeding?
good luck, by the way, we used the velvet under glazes that mn clay sells.
they have three varieties. dave.
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott James
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 11:07 AM
Subject: Help with Underglaze
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hey listers,
>
>I am trying my hand at underglaze paints, but my first try didn't go as
>expected.
>
>I am using Duncan underglaze paints. The bottles say apply to greenware or
>04 bisque and then fire to 04. Then apply clear glaze and follow
directions
>of glaze. The materials sheet from duncan say that most of the colors can
>be fired to cone 5. The colors I am using should fire to cone 5 with
little
>change.
>
>Anyway, I applied the underglaze to a bisqued piece then applied a
>transparent glaze over top (no firing in between.) I fired to cone 5.
Some
>of the underglaze came out ok (it looks like the part that was applied a
>little heavier.) The rest has burned out or ran and created a nice gray
>color.
>
>Any tips on what I should do on my next try? My ideas are -- 1. try
>reapplying the paints on the same piece and fire to 04 and see what it
does.
>2. try applying the paints to greenware, fire to cone 04, then apply the
>transparent glaze and fire to cone 5. 3. apply the paints to 04
>bisqueware, fire to 04, glaze with transparent, then fire to cone 5. 4.
>scrap the whole idea and give up :-) (just kidding)
>
>Please help. It is so frustrating to wait all day for the kiln to cool and
>then be dissapointed. I guess that is what it's all about though (at least
>till you get it right. :-) I am wondering, had I fired to 04 first after
>applying the underglaze, will that set the underglaze and keep it from
>moving when refiring to cone 5 with the transparent glaze?
>
>Any help or experiences anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
>Including products you have used and had success with and techniques that
>work for you.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott J.
>
Sheila Tarshis on tue 11 may 99
I apply underglazes to greenware and then fire to 03. I clear glaze
afterwards and then fire to 04. I know I am not firing mid-range but perhaps
this might work for you. I think that it is important to decorate the
greenware and then fire.
Hope this helps.
Sheila
Phyllis Gibson on tue 11 may 99
In a message dated 5/10/99 11:08:03 AM Central Daylight Time,
jpshep@earthlink.net writes:
<<
Please help. It is so frustrating to wait all day for the kiln to cool and
then be dissapointed. I guess that is what it's all about though (at least
till you get it right. :-) I am wondering, had I fired to 04 first after
applying the underglaze, will that set the underglaze and keep it from
moving when refiring to cone 5 with the transparent glaze?
>>
Scott, I use underglaze all the time. if you use just a little, you can
apply the glaze and fire immedialely but if you use a lot of underglaze on
your piece or if you you use red (especially) you must fire to 04 (I have
also fired to 05) and this does set the piece. I usually fire to 06 with the
glazes and clay that I use but I don't see why after firing to 04 for the
underglaze, that you couldn't fire with a glaze to 5 for your glaze.
Phyllis Gibson
Alabama sunshine
C.Harris on wed 12 may 99
Scott:
I've used underglazes for years (although I use Reward/Amaco velvets rather
than Duncan), but I ALWAYS apply the underglazes on bone dry greenware.
Bisque fire to ^06 (slowly) and then wipe the pots before putting on the
transparent (gets rid of dust) and fire again to ^5/6. NEVER had any
problems (touch wood), pieces turn out perfectly every time!
Good luck
C. Harris
Aurora, Ontario
c.harris@aci.on.ca
----------
> From: Scott James
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Help with Underglaze
> Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 12:07 PM
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hey listers,
>
> I am trying my hand at underglaze paints, but my first try didn't go as
> expected.
>
> I am using Duncan underglaze paints. The bottles say apply to greenware
or
> 04 bisque and then fire to 04. Then apply clear glaze and follow
directions
> of glaze. The materials sheet from duncan say that most of the colors
can
> be fired to cone 5. The colors I am using should fire to cone 5 with
little
> change.
>
> Anyway, I applied the underglaze to a bisqued piece then applied a
> transparent glaze over top (no firing in between.) I fired to cone 5.
Some
> of the underglaze came out ok (it looks like the part that was applied a
> little heavier.) The rest has burned out or ran and created a nice gray
> color.
>
> Any tips on what I should do on my next try? My ideas are -- 1. try
> reapplying the paints on the same piece and fire to 04 and see what it
does.
> 2. try applying the paints to greenware, fire to cone 04, then apply the
> transparent glaze and fire to cone 5. 3. apply the paints to 04
> bisqueware, fire to 04, glaze with transparent, then fire to cone 5. 4.
> scrap the whole idea and give up :-) (just kidding)
>
> Please help. It is so frustrating to wait all day for the kiln to cool
and
> then be dissapointed. I guess that is what it's all about though (at
least
> till you get it right. :-) I am wondering, had I fired to 04 first after
> applying the underglaze, will that set the underglaze and keep it from
> moving when refiring to cone 5 with the transparent glaze?
>
> Any help or experiences anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
> Including products you have used and had success with and techniques that
> work for you.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott J.
Sharon Miranda on wed 12 may 99
Scott:
I have some experience with underglazes. Are you using Duncan
"one-strokes"?
Basically these underglazes work best on unfired clay. For underglazes
that are not one strokes, you need to apply 3
coats, letting dry well inbetween, then bisque fire, then apply clear
overglaze. Best glaze firing temp is at 06. I have found color changes
even at 04. I would imagine that at cone 5 they will be pretty washed out.
You can apply to bisque, but then the bisque will not absorb as much.
Again, best glaze firing results are at 05-06. Actually, the directions
on the underglaze will be pretty specific and accurate.But I have not
found that underglazes will fire well at cone 5 under a transparent glaze.
UG will set better if you rebisque after you paint. But that is really not
necessary.
You really can't successfully apply ug to a glazed piece. I've done it,
but it's a pain. You have to heat up the piece, then apply more ug, then
more glaze, after which it still may not work.
Hope this helps.Sharon
On Mon, 10 May 1999, Scott James wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hey listers,
>
> I am trying my hand at underglaze paints, but my first try didn't go as
> expected.
>
> I am using Duncan underglaze paints. The bottles say apply to greenware or
> 04 bisque and then fire to 04. Then apply clear glaze and follow directions
> of glaze. The materials sheet from duncan say that most of the colors can
> be fired to cone 5. The colors I am using should fire to cone 5 with little
> change.
>
> Anyway, I applied the underglaze to a bisqued piece then applied a
> transparent glaze over top (no firing in between.) I fired to cone 5. Some
> of the underglaze came out ok (it looks like the part that was applied a
> little heavier.) The rest has burned out or ran and created a nice gray
> color.
>
> Any tips on what I should do on my next try? My ideas are -- 1. try
> reapplying the paints on the same piece and fire to 04 and see what it does.
> 2. try applying the paints to greenware, fire to cone 04, then apply the
> transparent glaze and fire to cone 5. 3. apply the paints to 04
> bisqueware, fire to 04, glaze with transparent, then fire to cone 5. 4.
> scrap the whole idea and give up :-) (just kidding)
>
> Please help. It is so frustrating to wait all day for the kiln to cool and
> then be dissapointed. I guess that is what it's all about though (at least
> till you get it right. :-) I am wondering, had I fired to 04 first after
> applying the underglaze, will that set the underglaze and keep it from
> moving when refiring to cone 5 with the transparent glaze?
>
> Any help or experiences anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
> Including products you have used and had success with and techniques that
> work for you.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott J.
>
Joan & Tom Woodward on wed 12 may 99
-----Original Message-----
From: Phyllis Gibson
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: Help with Underglaze
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>In a message dated 5/10/99 11:08:03 AM Central Daylight Time,
>jpshep@earthlink.net writes:
>
><<
> Please help. It is so frustrating to wait all day for the kiln to cool
and
> then be dissapointed. I guess that is what it's all about though (at
least
> till you get it right. :-) I am wondering, had I fired to 04 first after
> applying the underglaze, will that set the underglaze and keep it from
> moving when refiring to cone 5 with the transparent glaze?
> >>
>Scott, I use underglaze all the time. if you use just a little, you can
>apply the glaze and fire immedialely but if you use a lot of underglaze on
>your piece or if you you use red (especially) you must fire to 04 (I have
>also fired to 05) and this does set the piece. I usually fire to 06 with
the
>glazes and clay that I use but I don't see why after firing to 04 for the
>underglaze, that you couldn't fire with a glaze to 5 for your glaze.
>
>Phyllis Gibson
>Alabama sunshine
That's what I do; it works wonderfully. Though I must admit that putting a
lot of time into the underglaze process on greenware sometimes causes me to
hold my breath through the bisque firing. In candling mode as we speak. .
. Joan in Alaska where the trees outside my window are budding their way
into spring.
Joan & Tom Woodward on wed 12 may 99
As I noted in reply to another post, I underglaze on greenware and use
Duncan as well as some AMACO and Fireshade. Then I bisque to 04 and add put
on my transparent glaze before firing to Cone 5. Works well. Happy Spring!
Joan in Alaska
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott James
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 8:07 AM
Subject: Help with Underglaze
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hey listers,
>
>I am trying my hand at underglaze paints, but my first try didn't go as
>expected.
>
>I am using Duncan underglaze paints. The bottles say apply to greenware or
>04 bisque and then fire to 04. Then apply clear glaze and follow
directions
>of glaze. The materials sheet from duncan say that most of the colors can
>be fired to cone 5. The colors I am using should fire to cone 5 with
little
>change.
>
>Anyway, I applied the underglaze to a bisqued piece then applied a
>transparent glaze over top (no firing in between.) I fired to cone 5.
Some
>of the underglaze came out ok (it looks like the part that was applied a
>little heavier.) The rest has burned out or ran and created a nice gray
>color.
>
>Any tips on what I should do on my next try? My ideas are -- 1. try
>reapplying the paints on the same piece and fire to 04 and see what it
does.
>2. try applying the paints to greenware, fire to cone 04, then apply the
>transparent glaze and fire to cone 5. 3. apply the paints to 04
>bisqueware, fire to 04, glaze with transparent, then fire to cone 5. 4.
>scrap the whole idea and give up :-) (just kidding)
>
>Please help. It is so frustrating to wait all day for the kiln to cool and
>then be dissapointed. I guess that is what it's all about though (at least
>till you get it right. :-) I am wondering, had I fired to 04 first after
>applying the underglaze, will that set the underglaze and keep it from
>moving when refiring to cone 5 with the transparent glaze?
>
>Any help or experiences anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
>Including products you have used and had success with and techniques that
>work for you.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott J.
eden@sover.net on wed 12 may 99
Hiya Scott,
The deal is it doesn't really matter how high you fire your glaze kiln but
you have to fix the underglazes at a HOTTER temperature to keep them from
moving under the glaze. So if you bisc to 04 then your glaze firing is
supposed to be at a lower temperature. That's if you want your
underglazes to stay put.
What they tell you on the can about temperature limitations and what will
actually work for you are sometimes two different things. Generally the
greens and blues and pinks are pretty good at higher temps in the Duncan
arena. Reds and purples start disappearing at about cone 02 if not sooner.
Velvets are sposedly alot better at higher temps than Duncan. If I were
trying to do underglaze work at cone 5 I would definitely go to the Reward
Velvets, sold both by Amaco and Gare.
And there are color reactions with the clear glaze as well as temperature
burnout. There are bunches of colors not compatible with zinc, and
problems with other stuff too. The lowfire clears that are sold are
generally underglaze compatible. You ought to check out Mason stain chart,
that will tell you the compatibility of various colors just as a general
guide as to what to avoid in your glaze if you want it to work with most
underglaze colors.
There is also atmosphere limitations. Not many of the underglazes do too
well in reduction. Are we talking oxydation electric here?
Anyway these are the main points.
Eleanora
At 12:07 PM 5/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hey listers,
>
>I am trying my hand at underglaze paints, but my first try didn't go as
>expected.
>
>I am using Duncan underglaze paints. The bottles say apply to greenware or
>04 bisque and then fire to 04. Then apply clear glaze and follow directions
>of glaze. The materials sheet from duncan say that most of the colors can
>be fired to cone 5. The colors I am using should fire to cone 5 with little
>change.
>
>Anyway, I applied the underglaze to a bisqued piece then applied a
>transparent glaze over top (no firing in between.) I fired to cone 5. Some
>of the underglaze came out ok (it looks like the part that was applied a
>little heavier.) The rest has burned out or ran and created a nice gray
>color.
>
>Any tips on what I should do on my next try? My ideas are -- 1. try
>reapplying the paints on the same piece and fire to 04 and see what it does.
>2. try applying the paints to greenware, fire to cone 04, then apply the
>transparent glaze and fire to cone 5. 3. apply the paints to 04
>bisqueware, fire to 04, glaze with transparent, then fire to cone 5. 4.
>scrap the whole idea and give up :-) (just kidding)
>
>Please help. It is so frustrating to wait all day for the kiln to cool and
>then be dissapointed. I guess that is what it's all about though (at least
>till you get it right. :-) I am wondering, had I fired to 04 first after
>applying the underglaze, will that set the underglaze and keep it from
>moving when refiring to cone 5 with the transparent glaze?
>
>Any help or experiences anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
>Including products you have used and had success with and techniques that
>work for you.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott J.
>
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@sover.net
Jeanie Wilson on thu 13 may 99
If you go to your Duncan dealer, they have a chart that tells exactly which of
their colors, underglaze and glazes, are compatible with high fire......the same
is true of Mayco and I'm sure the others also.
There is also a difference as to which underglazes you may be using. Cover
Coats are designed for application on Greenware but require three coats to make
them opaque. EZ Strokes are also designed for greenware, but are semi
translucent/semi transparent and were made for stroke work.....(NOT OPAQUE)
After glazing, every single stroke or touch of the brush shows. (Glaringly
sometimes) I'm going to assume that if you are high firing, that you used a
clear, high fire glaze. So, contact your Duncan dealer for the list of
underglazes that do well with high fire. I have found that pinks are the least
stable....and we don't even want to talk about reds.......LOL
Jeanie Wilson
jandk@galesburg.net
Galesburg, Illinois
USA
eden@sover.net wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hiya Scott,
>
> The deal is it doesn't really matter how high you fire your glaze kiln but
> you have to fix the underglazes at a HOTTER temperature to keep them from
> moving under the glaze. So if you bisc to 04 then your glaze firing is
> supposed to be at a lower temperature. That's if you want your
> underglazes to stay put.
>
> What they tell you on the can about temperature limitations and what will
> actually work for you are sometimes two different things. Generally the
> greens and blues and pinks are pretty good at higher temps in the Duncan
> arena. Reds and purples start disappearing at about cone 02 if not sooner.
> Velvets are sposedly alot better at higher temps than Duncan. If I were
> trying to do underglaze work at cone 5 I would definitely go to the Reward
> Velvets, sold both by Amaco and Gare.
>
> And there are color reactions with the clear glaze as well as temperature
> burnout. There are bunches of colors not compatible with zinc, and
> problems with other stuff too. The lowfire clears that are sold are
> generally underglaze compatible. You ought to check out Mason stain chart,
> that will tell you the compatibility of various colors just as a general
> guide as to what to avoid in your glaze if you want it to work with most
> underglaze colors.
>
> There is also atmosphere limitations. Not many of the underglazes do too
> well in reduction. Are we talking oxydation electric here?
>
> Anyway these are the main points.
>
> Eleanora
> At 12:07 PM 5/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Hey listers,
> >
> >I am trying my hand at underglaze paints, but my first try didn't go as
> >expected.
> >
> >I am using Duncan underglaze paints. The bottles say apply to greenware or
> >04 bisque and then fire to 04. Then apply clear glaze and follow directions
> >of glaze. The materials sheet from duncan say that most of the colors can
> >be fired to cone 5. The colors I am using should fire to cone 5 with little
> >change.
> >
> >Anyway, I applied the underglaze to a bisqued piece then applied a
> >transparent glaze over top (no firing in between.) I fired to cone 5. Some
> >of the underglaze came out ok (it looks like the part that was applied a
> >little heavier.) The rest has burned out or ran and created a nice gray
> >color.
> >
> >Any tips on what I should do on my next try? My ideas are -- 1. try
> >reapplying the paints on the same piece and fire to 04 and see what it does.
> >2. try applying the paints to greenware, fire to cone 04, then apply the
> >transparent glaze and fire to cone 5. 3. apply the paints to 04
> >bisqueware, fire to 04, glaze with transparent, then fire to cone 5. 4.
> >scrap the whole idea and give up :-) (just kidding)
> >
> >Please help. It is so frustrating to wait all day for the kiln to cool and
> >then be dissapointed. I guess that is what it's all about though (at least
> >till you get it right. :-) I am wondering, had I fired to 04 first after
> >applying the underglaze, will that set the underglaze and keep it from
> >moving when refiring to cone 5 with the transparent glaze?
> >
> >Any help or experiences anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
> >Including products you have used and had success with and techniques that
> >work for you.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Scott J.
> >
> Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
> Paradise Hill
> Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@sover.net
Veena Raghavan on thu 13 may 99
Scott,
You have already had a lot of wonderful input, so I do not know if
this is redundant or will help at all. I have used some Duncan underglazes,
some of their EZ strokes and more Amaco Velvets to do underglaze under
clear glaze on Cone 6 buff and porcelain. The suppliers lists tell you
which of the underglazes can go up to a higher temperature and the color
changes, if any that take place.
If you want the colors to be clearly defined, I have found applying
them to greenware more satisfactory than on bisque. I think somehow they
seem to meld to the clay this way and stay more defined. The experts would
know better than I, whether this is my imagination or or whether it is
true. If you want a more watercolor affect, then applying to bisque works
better. The advantage of working with greenware is that, if your hand slips
or you don't like something, you can wipe it off, whereas on bisque I found
I could not wash it away completely.
Regarding a good clear glaze, I have used Amaco's HF9, which is
Zinc free (thus good for all colors), lead free, and although it is Cone 5,
fires well to Cone 6.
Hope this helps.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Joan & Tom Woodward on fri 14 may 99
To add to Veena's post, I too have used the Amaco zinc free clear with great
results; wonderful vibrant colors. But unless someone has a better source,
I've found it too costly; it can only be purchased in pints or 1 lb.
containers. I'm working on a clear put out by Clay Art Center in Seattle.
If that doesn't work (and maybe even if it does, eventually), I'll try to
develop a clear from scratch. Maybe starting with Tony's recipe.Enjoy those
colors! Alaska Joan
-----Original Message-----
From: Veena Raghavan <75124.2520@compuserve.com>
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: Help with Underglaze
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Scott,
> You have already had a lot of wonderful input, so I do not know if
>this is redundant or will help at all. I have used some Duncan underglazes,
>some of their EZ strokes and more Amaco Velvets to do underglaze under
>clear glaze on Cone 6 buff and porcelain. The suppliers lists tell you
>which of the underglazes can go up to a higher temperature and the color
>changes, if any that take place.
> If you want the colors to be clearly defined, I have found applying
>them to greenware more satisfactory than on bisque. I think somehow they
>seem to meld to the clay this way and stay more defined. The experts would
>know better than I, whether this is my imagination or or whether it is
>true. If you want a more watercolor affect, then applying to bisque works
>better. The advantage of working with greenware is that, if your hand slips
>or you don't like something, you can wipe it off, whereas on bisque I found
>I could not wash it away completely.
> Regarding a good clear glaze, I have used Amaco's HF9, which is
>Zinc free (thus good for all colors), lead free, and although it is Cone 5,
>fires well to Cone 6.
> Hope this helps.
>Veena
>
>Veena Raghavan
>75124.2520@compuserve.com
Joan & Tom Woodward on fri 14 may 99
Whoops, just answered another related post. Have to disagree here.
Duncan's coral red does beautifully at Cone 5. While the Duncan easy
strokes are semi-transparent, I put a couple of coats on and they can look
very strong/opaque. The brush strokes aren't anywhere near as noticeable as
majolica (did I spell that right?); I've never found them to be a problem.
And as for the Duncan charts, I haven't found them to be reliable. I use a
porcelain and a buff clay. Now you'll really be confused! Joan again
(God only knows what Ihit on the computer to change my font size. I guess I
should have gone to bed and saved this for tomorrow!)
----Original Message-----
From: Jeanie Wilson
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: Help with Underglaze
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>If you go to your Duncan dealer, they have a chart that tells exactly which
of
>their colors, underglaze and glazes, are compatible with high fire......the
same
>is true of Mayco and I'm sure the others also.
> There is also a difference as to which underglazes you may be using.
Cover
>Coats are designed for application on Greenware but require three coats to
make
>them opaque. EZ Strokes are also designed for greenware, but are semi
>translucent/semi transparent and were made for stroke work.....(NOT OPAQUE)
>After glazing, every single stroke or touch of the brush shows. (Glaringly
>sometimes) I'm going to assume that if you are high firing, that you used
a
>clear, high fire glaze. So, contact your Duncan dealer for the list of
>underglazes that do well with high fire. I have found that pinks are the
least
>stable....and we don't even want to talk about reds.......LOL
> Jeanie Wilson
>jandk@galesburg.net
>Galesburg, Illinois
>USA
>
>eden@sover.net wrote:
>
>> -
>> There is also atmosphere limitations. Not many of the underglazes do too
>> well in reduction. Are we talking oxydation electric here?
>>
>> Anyway these are the main points.
>>
>> Eleanora
>> At 12:07 PM 5/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> >Hey listers,
>> >
>> >I am trying my hand at underglaze paints, but my first try didn't go as
>> >expected.
>> >
>> >I am using Duncan underglaze paints. The bottles say apply to greenware
or
>> >04 bisque and then fire to 04. Then apply clear glaze and follow
directions
>> >of glaze. The materials sheet from duncan say that most of the colors
can
>> >be fired to cone 5. The colors I am using should fire to cone 5 with
little
>> >change.
>> >
>> >Anyway, I applied the underglaze to a bisqued piece then applied a
>> >transparent glaze over top (no firing in between.) I fired to cone 5.
Some
>> >of the underglaze came out ok (it looks like the part that was applied a
>> >little heavier.) The rest has burned out or ran and created a nice gray
>> >color.
>> >
>> >Any tips on what I should do on my next try? My ideas are -- 1. try
>> >reapplying the paints on the same piece and fire to 04 and see what it
does.
>> >2. try applying the paints to greenware, fire to cone 04, then apply
the
>> >transparent glaze and fire to cone 5. 3. apply the paints to 04
>> >bisqueware, fire to 04, glaze with transparent, then fire to cone 5. 4.
>> >scrap the whole idea and give up :-) (just kidding)
>> >
>> >Please help. It is so frustrating to wait all day for the kiln to cool
and
>> >then be dissapointed. I guess that is what it's all about though (at
least
>> >till you get it right. :-) I am wondering, had I fired to 04 first
after
>> >applying the underglaze, will that set the underglaze and keep it from
>> >moving when refiring to cone 5 with the transparent glaze?
>> >
>> >Any help or experiences anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
>> >Including products you have used and had success with and techniques
that
>> >work for you.
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >Scott J.
>> >
>> Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
>> Paradise Hill
>> Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@sover.net
| |
|
