Assumption Abbey on wed 26 may 99
Dear Readers:
I have some lose brick repair to make to the inside cover on my Amaco
electric kiln. Do I use a product called 'saribond'? I find no
instructions on the box or in the order catalog as to what cone this
product can can be reliably used- No directions on mixing or anything. Our
former kiln builder had a method where he would take stainless steel
welding rods and with a drill these would be driven in at an angle and hold
the brick in place. We used this method on our gas kiln door but I don't
think now that I would recommend it since you once the other bricking move
out of place you have problems getting the bricks tight again since you
cannot move the 'wired' bricks around without danger of cracking them if
you force them in the wrong direction from the angles they are wired.
I have the two or three corner bricks from the Amaco kiln cover and
want to secure them. This is a cone 9 kiln and any ideas as to what 'glue'
or name of a product I should use to do the job. Any help would be
appreciated.
Llewellyn Kouba
ABBEY POTTERY
Lesley Alexander on fri 28 may 99
Here'e hoping someone will answer the question about saribond and kiln
repair. Would that, or something, work in a gas kiln at cone 10? The bottom
of one of my key bricks dropped out, and the bricks beside the door are
loose and keep shoving out of place. I've already tried re-doing the front
with kiln cement, but that keeps flaking and definitely didn't 'glue.' Or
would ITC be an option? One way to 'patch,' it's been said here, is to
spray with itc 100 and then patch with itc 200, but would that glue
anything? Hopeful in Santa Barbara, where heat from the California Central
Valley pulls in fog from the ocean...
dave morrison on fri 28 may 99
according to my ap green catalog sairbond is recommended to 3000 degrees.f.
the description says that it is ready to use immediatly after mixing. as
for the stiffness of the mix. start dry, you can always add water. i would
mix it to the consistency of cement mortar. too wet to stand up on its own,
but stiff enough to provide some resistance. you probably want it nicely
spreadable. like cream cheese. and with that i must go find something to
eat!
good luck,
dave.
-----Original Message-----
From: Assumption Abbey
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Thursday, May 27, 1999 3:14 PM
Subject: Saribond and Kiln Repair
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Dear Readers:
I have some lose brick repair to make to the inside cover on my Amaco
electric kiln. Do I use a product called 'saribond'? I find no
instructions on the box or in the order catalog as to what cone this
product can can be reliably used- No directions on mixing or anything. Our
former kiln builder had a method where he would take stainless steel
welding rods and with a drill these would be driven in at an angle and hold
the brick in place. We used this method on our gas kiln door but I don't
think now that I would recommend it since you once the other bricking move
out of place you have problems getting the bricks tight again since you
cannot move the 'wired' bricks around without danger of cracking them if
you force them in the wrong direction from the angles they are wired.
I have the two or three corner bricks from the Amaco kiln cover and
want to secure them. This is a cone 9 kiln and any ideas as to what 'glue'
or name of a product I should use to do the job. Any help would be
appreciated.
Llewellyn Kouba
ABBEY POTTERY
Marc Ward on sat 29 may 99
Sairbond is a AP Green (now known as Harbinson-Walker since a recent
buy-out) product that is a bonding mortar that comes dry. It is mixed with
water and used as a mortar for laying refractory brick. It is not a patching
material or a material to "stick" broken stuff together with. Sairset, on the
other hand, comes wet and is sticky and adhesive and can be used to glue
stuff back together. The problem with Sairset is that has to be applied very
thin or else it flakes and peels away. It is best applied in thicknesses of
less than 1/8 of an inch. GreenPatch 421 has the same glueing properities as
Sairset, but can be used as a void filler and just sorta' slathered on. All
these products are rated at temperatures that potters never reach, so don't
worry about that. If you glue soft brick together or attach something like
fiber to soft brick with either Sairset or GreenPatch, you should slightly
wet the brick to slow the drying and make for a better set. You can fire
immediately, just don't go so fast as to blow up the brick and agent from
steam explosions. It's better to let air dry for awhile before procedeing. I
use Sairset for attaching fiber to itself, brick or metal. I use GreenPatch
to repair holes and damage. You know what I just realized? I sell this stuff!
Marc Ward
Ward Burner Systems
PO Box 333
Dandridge, TN 37725
USA
423.397.2914 voice
423.397.1253 fax
wardburner@aol.com
dave morrison on sun 30 may 99
if you want more specific information about ap green products, you can call
the chicago office at 708 474 5350. the info in my green book says that
most all of their mortars go to 3000 degrees
-----Original Message-----
From: Lesley Alexander
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 1:20 PM
Subject: Saribond and Kiln Repair
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Here'e hoping someone will answer the question about saribond and
kiln
repair. Would that, or something, work in a gas kiln at cone 10? The bottom
of one of my key bricks dropped out, and the bricks beside the door are
loose and keep shoving out of place. I've already tried re-doing the front
with kiln cement, but that keeps flaking and definitely didn't 'glue.' Or
would ITC be an option? One way to 'patch,' it's been said here, is to
spray with itc 100 and then patch with itc 200, but would that glue
anything? Hopeful in Santa Barbara, where heat from the California Central
Valley pulls in fog from the ocean...
Assumption Abbey on mon 31 may 99
At 11:38 5/30/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>if you want more specific information about ap green products, you can call
>the chicago office at 708 474 5350. the info in my green book says that
>most all of their mortars go to 3000 degrees
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Lesley Alexander
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 1:20 PM
>Subject: Saribond and Kiln Repair
>
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Here'e hoping someone will answer the question about saribond and
>kiln
>repair. Would that, or something, work in a gas kiln at cone 10? The bottom
>of one of my key bricks dropped out, and the bricks beside the door are
>loose and keep shoving out of place. I've already tried re-doing the front
>with kiln cement, but that keeps flaking and definitely didn't 'glue.' Or
>would ITC be an option? One way to 'patch,' it's been said here, is to
>spray with itc 100 and then patch with itc 200, but would that glue
>anything? Hopeful in Santa Barbara, where heat from the California Central
>Valley pulls in fog from the ocean...
>----------
One sure way in regards to (some) bricking problems is to take a
stainless steel welding rod and knock the outside coating off and the with
a speed drill drive them into the brick at an angle. Snip the ends and
leave a bit protruding but these will also eventually burn off. One draw
back is you can't shift the bricks or tighten them if you need to but in
some cases where nothing else will hold you will find this above method
works well. I had some old army surplus stainless steel rods and they
worked great for the job. Good luck
Llewellyn Kouba
ABBEY POTTERY
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