Christine Laginess on sat 5 jun 99
Hi Clayartists
I love the look of underglazes when they are fired without a glaze on top.
The color is nice, not so harsh or garish for my taste. But I worry that the
pores of the clay are not sealed and therefore, are not water proof. Is
there anyway to achieve a sealed surface with the underglazes without the
shiny surface of the clear glaze. Thanks for any input.
Christine
Nanci Bishof on sun 6 jun 99
Use a satin finish clear glaze that works well on you claybody to seal the
surface of underglazes.
It gives a really nice surface on carved pieces, more like the craftman
glazes. I find if you multiple fire at different temps, with the higher temp
& then lower temps you can even achieve color variation.
nanci
Karen Shapiro on sun 6 jun 99
Christine,
Try spraying on a matte sealer/art fixative. I do this with matte raku
pieces and it works well -- although my pieces are not functional, so it
might not suffice for a food-bearing vessel.
Karen in Sonoma
DinaH on sun 6 jun 99
Have you tried a clear matt glaze over your underglazes rather than a shiny
clear?
Dinah
Christine Laginess wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Clayartists
> I love the look of underglazes when they are fired without a glaze on top.
> The color is nice, not so harsh or garish for my taste. But I worry that the
> pores of the clay are not sealed and therefore, are not water proof. Is
> there anyway to achieve a sealed surface with the underglazes without the
> shiny surface of the clear glaze. Thanks for any input.
> Christine
Marcia Saul on mon 7 jun 99
In a message dated 6/6/99 3:15:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ENJB@AOL.COM
writes:
> Use a satin finish clear glaze that works well on you claybody to seal the
> surface of underglazes.
I have diluted this glaze with water - 25% water - and get NO shine at all,
but it DOES seal my piece and makes its appearance more finished. Good luck.
Valice Raffi on fri 28 nov 03
> If I dip a bisqued piece in a basic white glaze and then apply underglazes
>over it, does anyone have any idea what the results would be?
Lou,
It depends on which underglazes you use, how you apply them, & what temp
you fire them to. If you're asking about commercial underglazes and
low-firing:
The opaque ones like Duncan's Cover Coat will pretty much "sit" on the
surface. They'll be fired into the glaze, meaning that they won't rub off,
but they won't be melted into it. If you want them glossy, you'll need to
put a clear glaze over it. If you put them on thickly, they'll get a
little crusty.
The translucent ones like Duncan's EZ Strokes will melt into the glaze
more, but as they're translucent, the colors will be more subtle.
The Duncan Concepts and Mayco's Stroke 'n Coat will melt and be glossy but
will be slightly raised on the surface. A few of these colors (reds
mostly) don't form as much of a gloss and might need a clear glaze on top.
None of these will "move" much in the firing, they'll stay where you put
them. If you use the opaque underglazes on top of the white and push them
around with a brush and a fair amount of water, you can get a pretty
interesting effect.
Overglazes are things like metallics and lusters, they generally go on top
of fired glaze and are fired again to a very low temp (^018-021). Most
people use them on gloss glaze, but they can be applied to matts or even
unglazed areas. They take on the characteristics of the surface under
them.
have fun experimenting!
Valice
in Sacramento
Lou Roess on fri 28 nov 03
If I dip a bisqued piece in a basic white glaze and then apply underglazes
over it, does anyone have any idea what the results would be? What is the
difference between underglazes (which I have) and overglazes (which I
don't).
Thanks, Lou
P.S. Also thanks to all who addressed my question about using RO water for
glazes.
Ababi on sat 29 nov 03
Yes Lou
You have discovered just now the majolica
Please check here:
http://www.digitalfire.ab.ca/cermat/education/207.php
and
http://grafik.sdsu.edu/ceramicsweb//
go to education articles and majolica
In my site the children work:
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/986495/
I believe if you will use as a binder different frits you will have
different reaction. I mean: If you will use copper with frit 3110 or
with frit 3134 , you will have different results.
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://ababi.active.co.il
http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/Matrix%20Demo/Ababi.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lou Roess
Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 4:50 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: underglaze question
If I dip a bisqued piece in a basic white glaze and then apply
underglazes
over it, does anyone have any idea what the results would be? What is
the
difference between underglazes (which I have) and overglazes (which I
don't).
Thanks, Lou
.
Eleanora Eden on mon 1 dec 03
Hi Lou and all,
There are several new lines of colors made to do majolica. Concepts in my
experience will break up somewhat on top of the glaze. How about
velvets? Or velvets with a bit of clear glaze mixed in? I haven't tried
that. When I worked at high fire years ago when the underglaze choices
were very limited, I used to do all my work using old-fashioned colorants
(you know, cobalt, iron, chrome, etc) or mason stains. Worked fine over a
white glaze......its what I did for decoration for years.
Eleanora
At 07:38 PM 11/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
> > If I dip a bisqued piece in a basic white glaze and then apply underglazes
> >over it, does anyone have any idea what the results would be?
>
>Lou,
>
>It depends on which underglazes you use, how you apply them, & what temp
>you fire them to. If you're asking about commercial underglazes and
>low-firing:
>
>The opaque ones like Duncan's Cover Coat will pretty much "sit" on the
>surface. They'll be fired into the glaze, meaning that they won't rub off,
>but they won't be melted into it. If you want them glossy, you'll need to
>put a clear glaze over it. If you put them on thickly, they'll get a
>little crusty.
>
>The translucent ones like Duncan's EZ Strokes will melt into the glaze
>more, but as they're translucent, the colors will be more subtle.
>
>The Duncan Concepts and Mayco's Stroke 'n Coat will melt and be glossy but
>will be slightly raised on the surface. A few of these colors (reds
>mostly) don't form as much of a gloss and might need a clear glaze on top.
>
>None of these will "move" much in the firing, they'll stay where you put
>them. If you use the opaque underglazes on top of the white and push them
>around with a brush and a fair amount of water, you can get a pretty
>interesting effect.
>
>Overglazes are things like metallics and lusters, they generally go on top
>of fired glaze and are fired again to a very low temp (^018-021). Most
>people use them on gloss glaze, but they can be applied to matts or even
>unglazed areas. They take on the characteristics of the surface under
>them.
>
>have fun experimenting!
>
>Valice
>in Sacramento
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill Road eeden@vermontel.net
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 www.eleanoraeden.com
Mary L. Lee on sun 4 apr 04
I bisqued a number of pieces for a totem with Spectrum 06 - 6 underglazes.
I'm repainting some of them as the shading is not as subtle as I would like.
Should I bisque them again to darken the colors or will they darken in the cone
6 firing, covered with a transparent glaze?
Mary Lou
Melbourne, FL
Lois Ruben Aronow on mon 5 apr 04
Generally, the colors will darken once you put the clear on them and fire to
^6. Some will burn out in the glaze firing, as not all of them can fire up
that high, no matter what they tell you. My purples always turn puke green.
Test test test.
Another hint: when you bisque your greenware with the underglaze on it, do
a slow bisque. I find my underglazes keep their colors better that way in
the end.
I'd be interested to know what your final results are. I never had very
good luck with the Spectrum underglazes. I'm more of an Amaco girl.
Randall Moody on wed 20 jul 11
Does anyone have any recommendations on a good BLACK underglaze that stays
black? I am using Amaco LUG-1 but it is giving me a greenish cast where
thin. It is on Standard 257 porcelain fired to ^6.
I would also not be opposed to a good solid ^6 black that is something like
VC Satin Doll Black if anyone has that recipe.
--
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com
William & Susan Schran User on thu 21 jul 11
On 7/20/11 11:52 PM, "Randall Moody" wrote:
> Does anyone have any recommendations on a good BLACK underglaze that stay=
s
> black? I am using Amaco LUG-1 but it is giving me a greenish cast where
> thin. It is on Standard 257 porcelain fired to ^6.
Have you tried the Amaco Velvet underglaze? Seemed to be good black for me.
> I would also not be opposed to a good solid ^6 black that is something li=
ke
> VC Satin Doll Black if anyone has that recipe.
I have a version of Ron Roy's Black on my website. It is a high iron and
cobalt black. It is glossy, so don't know if it'll be what you need.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Randall Moody on thu 21 jul 11
Thanks! I may try the Mason Stain route first since I am using it as a wash
to accent the textures. It would be great to have that glaze recipe James!
You can see what I am trying out on my facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=3Da.611565351099.2182000.12817730&t=
ype=3D1
--
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com
Veena Raghavan on thu 21 jul 11
Hi Randall,
Have you tried the Amaco Reward Black. I have used it quite often and never
had a greenish tinge.
All the best.
Veena
In a message dated 7/21/2011 6:24:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
randall.moody@GMAIL.COM writes:
>
> Does anyone have any recommendations on a good BLACK underglaze that stay=
s
> black? I am using Amaco LUG-1 but it is giving me a greenish cast where
> thin. It is on Standard 257 porcelain fired to ^6.
>
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
Gregory on fri 22 jul 11
Try Duncan Cover Coat CC165 Black Brown. Produces a matte black at cone ^=
=3D
6.
Rimas VisGirda on fri 22 jul 11
I get clayart in the digest form, so this might be old hat. Also I noticed =
that the discussion morphed from black underglaze to satin black glaze...
Regarding underglaze, years ago I switched from Velvet black, there used to=
be 2 Velvet blacks, to LUG-1 as the Velvets didn't seem to have enough pig=
ment for good coverage and LUG-1 appeared denser. I mentioned the weak Velv=
ets to AMACO those years ago and they may have fixed it... I still use LUG-=
1 to cone 10 and it stays black for me in both electric and gas. I have on =
occasion added black stain to the LUG-1, not to make it blacker but to make=
it thicker as for silk screening. The other black I used to use before LUG=
-1 became convenient is a home-made black. Starting with a high fire engobe=
and a gallon jar, I fill the jar 1/4 way with the engobe, add 6-8 heaping =
tablespoons of cobalt (ox or carb) and 10-15 heaping tablespoons of red iro=
n ox. Throw in a tablespoon of ball clay and a tablespoon of feldspar. Mix,=
add water to brushing consistency. Test in a firing under a glaze; if too =
blue add iron, if too brown add cobalt. Test and adjust until it's a
good black. The gallon jug would last me for 5+ years or more and then the=
process would start over again. I still have about a pint left from a batc=
h of 10 or so years ago, since I found LUG-1 so convenient. I use the homem=
ade version on "special" pieces... -Rimas
Alice DeLisle on fri 22 jul 11
Randall,
I prefer to use a black patina as a wash to emphasize texture. The =3D
black patina is equal parts by weight Frit 3110, EPK and black mason =3D
stain (I use 6600). I have compared it to both black underglaze and =3D
black slip. The patina gives a good black and washes off more easily =3D
than either the underglaze or the slip. I apply it to bisque and have =3D
fired it at both cone 6 and cone 10 with good results. I haven't =3D
actually calculated the cost but it is probably less expensive than the =3D
underglaze.
Alice DeLisle
wanderland@att.net
http://www.etsy.com/shop/IslandTextures
Randall Moody on sun 24 jul 11
Alice,
Thanks for that recipe! I think that it was what I am looking for in a
stain. You can see the result on my latest boat on my facebook page in the
album "Boats".
*
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=3D872432880479&set=3Da.872433663909=
.2343101.12817730&type=3D1&theater
*
On Fri, Jul 22, 2011 at 8:37 AM, Alice DeLisle wrote:
> Randall,
>
> I prefer to use a black patina as a wash to emphasize texture. The black
> patina is equal parts by weight Frit 3110, EPK and black mason stain (I u=
se
> 6600). I have compared it to both black underglaze and black slip. The
> patina gives a good black and washes off more easily than either the
> underglaze or the slip. I apply it to bisque and have fired it at both c=
one
> 6 and cone 10 with good results. I haven't actually calculated the cost =
but
> it is probably less expensive than the underglaze.
>
> Alice DeLisle
>
> wanderland@att.net
> http://www.etsy.com/shop/IslandTextures
>
>
>
--
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com
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