Arnold Howard on mon 14 jun 99
Dear Friends:
The trend in kiln venting is to leave the peephole plugs out and lid
lowered during the entire firing.
1. Do you insert peephole plugs?
2. Do you prop the lid at the beginning of firing?
I would appreciate hearing your reasons, if any.
Thanks,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, Inc.
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Kelley Webb Randel on tue 15 jun 99
Dear Arnold,
Once again, I am happy to reply to your queries!
Since I have basically done all my firing at school,
Central MO State U, I tend to "soak" the kiln overnight,
(those pesky ceramics 1 'boat anchor' pots)!
I leave the peeps open and the lid propped all night and
when I come in in the morning, I shut the lid and peeps
and start cranking her up.
Sincerely,
Kelley Webb Randel
Rakugddss@worldnet.att.net
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Friends:
>
> The trend in kiln venting is to leave the peephole plugs out and lid
> lowered during the entire firing.
>
> 1. Do you insert peephole plugs?
>
> 2. Do you prop the lid at the beginning of firing?
>
> I would appreciate hearing your reasons, if any.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, Inc.
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
CNW on tue 15 jun 99
Arnold- I have always tried to follow the manufacturer's instructions at
first. The first kiln I had was an OLD paragon :^) And I always started with
the lid propped and all peepholes open. I would gradually plug the holes as
I turned the kiln up until I closed the lid and plugged all but the top
hole. I'm not sure where I got that but I think maybe one of your booklets?
I liked that way and did well with it til I went to a larger new kiln. The
local supplier sold skutt so I purchased one. Whole different set of
instructions. Had major problems for a while. I plug all but the top and
prop the lid. It works fine but I have to candle for longer to avoid
problems. I mostly do this because of manufacturers rec. since the kiln was
new then it got to be habit. I question the logic of thier explanation for
those reccomendations though. I still think the original way was better.
I appreciate the research that you are doing with clayart. I think of my
old paragon with regret (I passed it on) but I did HATE changing the
elements. Hope you all make working on them easier.
Celia in NC
cwike@conninc.com
Vicki Katz on tue 15 jun 99
I have a tiny 714 Skutt. I fire to C06 & C6
1. No, do not prop the lid. Begin the firing on LOW - bottom only then
advance
2. Yes, I insert peep plugs after the HI cycle to reach cone temp.
I would be interested in hearing a kiln maker's correct firing schedule.
Lori Pierce on wed 16 jun 99
Hi Arnold...Thanks for the catalogue...You certainly need a good copywriter
for those KS and HS kilns...and no mention of total wall materials other
than a full inch of block insulation, crossed out, and 'two inches' hand
written in!! Is it three inches as is the Energy Miser Kiln? Or shall I
guess? I expect after reading the page How to Choose a Kiln, that the
insulating brick is either 2 1/2 or 3 inches thick, plus the 2 inches of
insulation block. Why not put that in a multisided kiln and not lump
schools and potters together in your advertising....the heavy housing is
very nice, but I personally, as a studio potter, would sacrifice the
housing, if it meant I could have quality insulation at a lower price. Why
not in a multisided kiln since the catalog says they are cheaper to build.
About venting; I frequently candle overnight with the peeps out and the lid
cracked about 2 inches. Early in the morning I close all but the top peep,
and put in the first medium heat. I do not close the lid or plug the top
peep until the mirror I hold to the top peep is free of all condensation. My
total kiln vent is a Brawn wall fan installed above the kiln...tho I am
thinking of installing a Scatchard type vent as seen in CM a while ago, the
exhaust pipe exiting the kiln and ending under the wall vent to the outside.
Your catalogue contains a wealth of material and has obviously been very
carefully assembled... but no mention was made of the ADVANTAGES of slow
cooling and more insulation other than less cost, and the ability to fire
'heavy' stoneware and porcelain. Where was the thrill of the beautiful glaze
quality, the melding of glaze and body etc.? I also think the better
insulated kiln needs to be shown with the studio kilns , or featured as a
special unique cadillac of studio kilns. I'm glad you are asking these
question. Are you familiar with the Craney Hill electric kiln , a handmade
kiln featured in Studio Potter magazine, vol 5, number 2; The walls are
built from IFB, laid on side, two bricks thick...these brick are 4 1/2
inches wide, making the wall 9 inches thick! With space age materials that
would not be necessary, but the same insulative value should be there.
Lori in new Port Richey Fl.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelley Webb Randel
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, June 15, 1999 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: Venting the electric kiln
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Dear Arnold,
Once again, I am happy to reply to your queries!
Since I have basically done all my firing at school,
Central MO State U, I tend to "soak" the kiln overnight,
(those pesky ceramics 1 'boat anchor' pots)!
I leave the peeps open and the lid propped all night and
when I come in in the morning, I shut the lid and peeps
and start cranking her up.
Sincerely,
Kelley Webb Randel
Rakugddss@worldnet.att.net
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Friends:
>
> The trend in kiln venting is to leave the peephole plugs out and lid
> lowered during the entire firing.
>
> 1. Do you insert peephole plugs?
>
> 2. Do you prop the lid at the beginning of firing?
>
> I would appreciate hearing your reasons, if any.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, Inc.
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Evan Dresel on wed 16 jun 99
1) I have a Bailey vent and the top peep is used for the air intake. I
keep it open until I shut off the kiln then turn off the vent and plug
it. The others stay in. As I understand it the small amount of airflow
also promotes brighter colors in certain oxidation glazes.
2) I only prop the lid if I have damp stuff in the bisque. I generally
avoid that. The vent seems to work fine to remove the fumes.
-- Evan in W. Richland WA where the temp is 98 F and rising. So much
for our cool spring.
Arnold Howard wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Friends:
>
> The trend in kiln venting is to leave the peephole plugs out and lid
> lowered during the entire firing.
>
> 1. Do you insert peephole plugs?
>
> 2. Do you prop the lid at the beginning of firing?
>
> I would appreciate hearing your reasons, if any.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, Inc.
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
NakedClay@aol.com on wed 16 jun 99
In a message dated 6/14/99 2:59:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ajhparagon@yahoo.com writes:
> The trend in kiln venting is to leave the peephole plugs out and lid
> lowered during the entire firing.
>
> 1. Do you insert peephole plugs?
--------------------------------
Yes--I rarely fire an electric kiln, which has a kiln setter or automatic
controls with open holes.
--------------------------------
> 2. Do you prop the lid at the beginning of firing?
-----------------------------------------
Yes--especially when bisque-firing. This allows any burn-out material smoke
to escape. I always ventilate the room the kiln is in. The lid is kept open
with a soft kiln brick (about 1-2" wide), or if the kiln lid has one, the
built-in bracket for lid-propping. Once the temperature in the kiln is hot
enough (about two hours into the firing), the lid is carefully closed, for
the completion of the bisque firing. Some of my friends leave the lid propped
open, if the wares are thick, or if the clay isn't completely dry, to let the
steam release. This kind of firing requires careful elevation of the kiln
temperature, to prevent cracking or a possible explosion!
When I glaze-fire, I leave the lid propped open for the first hour of firing
only, to release any burn-out smoke, and to provide a steam release for
freshly-glazed wares. The lid is closed for the remainder of the glaze firing
(to cone 6).
> I would appreciate hearing your reasons, if any.
-----------------------------------
Glad to contribute.
Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
Hot, Dry, and Sunny in Yucca Valley, CA. My shop is now clothing optional!
Arnold Howard on thu 17 jun 99
Hi Lori,
Thanks for your very informative letter. It contains very good
feedback. I'm glad you received the catalog.
Some of your suggestions for the catalog are exactly what I had in
mind.
> Hi Arnold...Thanks for the catalogue...You certainly
> need a good copywriter
> for those KS and HS kilns...and no mention of total
> wall materials other
> than a full inch of block insulation, crossed out,
> and 'two inches' hand
> written in!! Is it three inches as is the Energy
> Miser Kiln? Or shall I
> guess?
Before sending the catalog to you, I read the KS/HS page and noticed
wall thickness. Someone at Paragon recently had told me we had 2" of
block insulation in those kilns. So I measured the wall of a kiln, and
indeed it was 2" of block insulation.
The wall is 2 1/2" thick firebrick, backed by 2" block insulation. The
top rim of the sidewalls is firebrick out to the edge of the steel
case. The top rim of firebrick covers the block insulation.
> kiln and not lump
> schools and potters together in your
> advertising....the heavy housing is
> very nice, but I personally, as a studio potter,
> would sacrifice the
> housing, if it meant I could have quality insulation
> at a lower price.
What do potters think when they are lumped together in a separate
category with schools?
Why
> not in a multisided kiln since the catalog says they
> are cheaper to build.
I have been discussing more insulation with John R. Hohenshelt. He's
thinking about it and will certainly do it if that's what potters
really want.
> Your catalogue contains a wealth of material and has
> obviously been very
> carefully assembled... but no mention was made of
> the ADVANTAGES of slow
> cooling and more insulation other than less cost,
> and the ability to fire
> 'heavy' stoneware and porcelain. Where was the
> thrill of the beautiful glaze
> quality, the melding of glaze and body etc.?
I will include this in the next revision.
Are you familiar with the Craney Hill
> electric kiln , a handmade
> kiln featured in Studio Potter magazine, vol 5,
> number 2;
No, I haven't seen the Craney Hill kiln.
The walls are
> built from IFB, laid on side, two bricks
> thick...these brick are 4 1/2
> inches wide, making the wall 9 inches thick! With
> space age materials that
> would not be necessary, but the same insulative
> value should be there.
What a massive kiln. Have you heard anything about how it fires?
Regards,
Arnold Howard
_________________________________________________________
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Stephen Mills on thu 17 jun 99
I always vent Biscuit firings right up to the finish point (06). This is
made easier because all top loading Kilns in the UK have a small vent
hole in the lid (including the Olympics first imported in the late '70s)
which is good for getting rid of all the rubbish which is burnt off
during the bisc. The peepholes in the body of the Kiln stay shut.
Steve
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk
Dave Finkelnburg on fri 18 jun 99
Arnold,
I go by what I think is common sense. I leave the bottom plug in
always, the top one out, the lid propped, while candling (really up to
~350F). This is just to make it very easy for moisture to get out so I get
a good job of candling. Then I close the lid and leave the top plug out so
the vent has some place to pull air in at. Otherwise it won't work.
On bisque firing I may not even turn the vent on until this
point--there's really nothing harmful to vent until some organic starts to
burn off, which is above 400F.
In glaze firing I don't worry about having the vent on until above 800F,
again because there's really nothing harmful to vent until I start evolving
metals, burning carbon (all gone from the bisque, but conceivably in the
glaze, though not normally in mine). Really, metals won't be an issue
until above 1,200 F.
I just try to make sure the vent's on when I'm evolving sulfur
compounds, metals, or burning organics. Does this help? I hope so!
Dave Finkelnburg in Idaho
-----Original Message-----
From: Arnold Howard
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Monday, June 14, 1999 5:05 PM
Subject: Venting the electric kiln
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Dear Friends:
The trend in kiln venting is to leave the peephole plugs out and lid
lowered during the entire firing.
1. Do you insert peephole plugs?
2. Do you prop the lid at the beginning of firing?
I would appreciate hearing your reasons, if any.
Thanks,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, Inc.
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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