taube wilson on mon 5 jul 99
Hi,
I teach at a rec center where we fire stoneware
to ^6(ox). This quarter some of my students will be
trying a ^6 porcelain(Standard 365). I have a
few questions about firing it.
1) We candle our bisque kilns(^06) for 12 hours. Will
this be a problem for the porcelain?
2)Should I avoid stacking the porcelain pieces in the
bisque kiln?
3) Are ^6 stoneware glazes likely to work on porcelain
or will I have to make adjustments? In particular, I would
like to have a clear glaze available. Does anyone have
a recipe that works well on porcelain at this temp?
Thank you so much in advance for this and any other
advice!
Taube Wilson
Annandale, Va.
tpottery@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________________________
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Tim Dippold on tue 6 jul 99
>From: taube wilson
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: firing ^6 porcelain
>Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1999 16:37:00 EDT
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi,
> I teach at a rec center where we fire stoneware
>to ^6(ox). This quarter some of my students will be
>trying a ^6 porcelain(Standard 365). I have a
>few questions about firing it.
>
> 1) We candle our bisque kilns(^06) for 12 hours. Will
>this be a problem for the porcelain?
>
> 2)Should I avoid stacking the porcelain pieces in the
>bisque kiln?
>
> 3) Are ^6 stoneware glazes likely to work on porcelain
>or will I have to make adjustments? In particular, I would
>like to have a clear glaze available. Does anyone have
>a recipe that works well on porcelain at this temp?
>
>
> Thank you so much in advance for this and any other
>advice!
> Taube Wilson
> Annandale, Va.
> tpottery@hotmail.com
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
Taube;
I am in a Japanese(method of throwing from Arita) porcelain class at the
local university (UNM) and there is no problem with firing it the way you
fire stoneware bisque. You can stack ware in eachother to save space but if
the pieces are thin (eg. translucent porcelain) it would be ill advised
simply because it is delicate. PORCELAIN BISQUE IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE!!! I
have noticed that it seems to be a bit more fragile than the green ware
believe it or not and have lost far more pieces that were bisqued than were
wet. As for glazes i think you will find that they seem a lot clearer and
the colors are more brilliant unless the glaze needs an iron bearing clay
for more color. We share a room with the stoneware class and the glazes can
are used interchangeably without any problems other tan the change of color
in translucent glazes simply because porcelain is white like drawing paper
and not brown like a sack. (although some pastel artists prefer tinted
paper). What ever reliable clear glaze you use on your stoneware should work
for your porcelain.
_______________________________________________________________
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Lori Pierce on wed 7 jul 99
I found that in my testing of cone 6 glazes on cone six porcelains, that the
same glaze would fit on one body, but craze on another...its the same answer
as usual...test, test, test, unless you have a friend that is using the same
clay body and glaze , and you are familiar with their firing patterns, and
they will share with you..but stll, TEST. Lori in New Port Richey Fl. I am
still amazed at the number of people in teaching positions who are ignorant
of the basics, but passing on their 'expertise' to others. If you can be
more specific , name names if it is a commercial body, there will be those
on this generous list to share with you, and it is very possible your
supplier will have the answer to your question as well as samples of fired
tiles in your body and glazes if they are commercial.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dippold
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: firing ^6 porcelain
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>From: taube wilson
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: firing ^6 porcelain
>Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1999 16:37:00 EDT
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi,
> I teach at a rec center where we fire stoneware
>to ^6(ox). This quarter some of my students will be
>trying a ^6 porcelain(Standard 365). I have a
>few questions about firing it.
>
> 1) We candle our bisque kilns(^06) for 12 hours. Will
>this be a problem for the porcelain?
>
> 2)Should I avoid stacking the porcelain pieces in the
>bisque kiln?
>
> 3) Are ^6 stoneware glazes likely to work on porcelain
>or will I have to make adjustments? In particular, I would
>like to have a clear glaze available. Does anyone have
>a recipe that works well on porcelain at this temp?
>
>
> Thank you so much in advance for this and any other
>advice!
> Taube Wilson
> Annandale, Va.
> tpottery@hotmail.com
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
Taube;
I am in a Japanese(method of throwing from Arita) porcelain class at the
local university (UNM) and there is no problem with firing it the way you
fire stoneware bisque. You can stack ware in eachother to save space but if
the pieces are thin (eg. translucent porcelain) it would be ill advised
simply because it is delicate. PORCELAIN BISQUE IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE!!! I
have noticed that it seems to be a bit more fragile than the green ware
believe it or not and have lost far more pieces that were bisqued than were
wet. As for glazes i think you will find that they seem a lot clearer and
the colors are more brilliant unless the glaze needs an iron bearing clay
for more color. We share a room with the stoneware class and the glazes can
are used interchangeably without any problems other tan the change of color
in translucent glazes simply because porcelain is white like drawing paper
and not brown like a sack. (although some pastel artists prefer tinted
paper). What ever reliable clear glaze you use on your stoneware should work
for your porcelain.
_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
Lori Pierce on wed 7 jul 99
Hi Taube...sorry I answered so hastily...you did state the porcelain body,
365 Standard. My tests were for, among others, Standard 213. Les Lawrence
Clear worked well for me on Standard 213, 181 white stoneware, and Miller
550 cone six porcelain.It is also very good over underglaze colors. If you
do not have it let me know. This is the recipe he used on his Neiman Marcus
dinnerware. Lori in New Port Richey Fl.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dippold
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: firing ^6 porcelain
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>From: taube wilson
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: firing ^6 porcelain
>Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1999 16:37:00 EDT
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi,
> I teach at a rec center where we fire stoneware
>to ^6(ox). This quarter some of my students will be
>trying a ^6 porcelain(Standard 365). I have a
>few questions about firing it.
>
> 1) We candle our bisque kilns(^06) for 12 hours. Will
>this be a problem for the porcelain?
>
> 2)Should I avoid stacking the porcelain pieces in the
>bisque kiln?
>
> 3) Are ^6 stoneware glazes likely to work on porcelain
>or will I have to make adjustments? In particular, I would
>like to have a clear glaze available. Does anyone have
>a recipe that works well on porcelain at this temp?
>
>
> Thank you so much in advance for this and any other
>advice!
> Taube Wilson
> Annandale, Va.
> tpottery@hotmail.com
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
Taube;
I am in a Japanese(method of throwing from Arita) porcelain class at the
local university (UNM) and there is no problem with firing it the way you
fire stoneware bisque. You can stack ware in eachother to save space but if
the pieces are thin (eg. translucent porcelain) it would be ill advised
simply because it is delicate. PORCELAIN BISQUE IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE!!! I
have noticed that it seems to be a bit more fragile than the green ware
believe it or not and have lost far more pieces that were bisqued than were
wet. As for glazes i think you will find that they seem a lot clearer and
the colors are more brilliant unless the glaze needs an iron bearing clay
for more color. We share a room with the stoneware class and the glazes can
are used interchangeably without any problems other tan the change of color
in translucent glazes simply because porcelain is white like drawing paper
and not brown like a sack. (although some pastel artists prefer tinted
paper). What ever reliable clear glaze you use on your stoneware should work
for your porcelain.
_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
David Hewitt on wed 7 jul 99
Hello Taube,
In message , taube wilson writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi,
> I teach at a rec center where we fire stoneware
>to ^6(ox). This quarter some of my students will be
>trying a ^6 porcelain(Standard 365). I have a
>few questions about firing it.
>
> 1) We candle our bisque kilns(^06) for 12 hours. Will
>this be a problem for the porcelain?
I am not familiar with the use of the word 'candle' in this context
(that big ocean which separates us gives rise to some different usages
to words) and would be interested in knowing exactly what it means. Do
you mean you that your ^06 firing takes 12 hours? If so, then there is
no problem with using porcelain pieces in the same biscuit firing.
I work with both stoneware and porcelain and fire both in the same
biscuit firing without any problem.
>
> 2)Should I avoid stacking the porcelain pieces in the
>bisque kiln?
I stack porcelain pieces at cone 06 biscuit firing without a problem.
>
> 3) Are ^6 stoneware glazes likely to work on porcelain
>or will I have to make adjustments? In particular, I would
>like to have a clear glaze available. Does anyone have
>a recipe that works well on porcelain at this temp?
The most likely problem that you will find is that a stoneware cone 6
glaze will craze on porcelain and so some adjustment to the recipe would
be required if you did not want this. Colour responses will also be
different. Colours will be generally brighter and 'purer' on porcelain.
You can see a cone 6 glaze that I use on my web site under 'Tulip
Design'. It is an eggshell finish which works well over slips. It will
craze slightly, but I use this to effect. If you are interested in the
recipe, please write to me off-list.
Own Web site http://www.dhpot.demon.co.uk
David
>
>
> Thank you so much in advance for this and any other
>advice!
> Taube Wilson
> Annandale, Va.
> tpottery@hotmail.com
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
--
David Hewitt
David Hewitt Pottery ,
7 Fairfield Road, Caerleon, Newport,
South Wales, NP18 3DQ, UK. Tel:- +44 (0) 1633 420647
FAX:- +44 (0) 870 1617274
Own Web site http://www.dhpot.demon.co.uk
IMC Web site http://digitalfire.com/education/people/hewitt.htm
Lois Ruben Aronow on fri 9 jul 99
------------------
Hi Taube --
I am also using =5E6 porcelain. =23365 Grolleg cone 6. I find the 365
much more delicate than the standard =23213 porcelain, but much more
soft and lovely. I have been told the =23365 is a more =22real=22 porcelain,
and the =23213 is a porcelain/stoneware hybrid. The =23365 is by far more
difficult to throw - it's like cream cheese=21
Although you didn't mention reclaiming the clay, I find the cycle to
be different than stoneware. The clay can't sit on the plaster too
long, or it gets real stiff. And slurry sitting in the bucket tends
to settle into a hard lump at the bottom.
I fire it exactly the same as any other =5E6 body. I don't candle the
bisque, though. This might not be a bad idea, as I find the porcelain
dries much differently than stoneware (read:unevenly)
=3E 2)Should I avoid stacking the porcelain pieces in the
=3Ebisque kiln?
As with stacking anything in a bisque, take care to place heavier
pieces on the bottom. I do stack like objects, such as bowls, but not
too high. The porcelain is more delicate than stoneware.
=3E
=3E 3) Are =5E6 stoneware glazes likely to work on porcelain
=3Eor will I have to make adjustments? In particular, I would
=3Elike to have a clear glaze available. Does anyone have
=3Ea recipe that works well on porcelain at this temp?
I know others have said this, but it's worth repeating: test test
test. I use my =5E6 stoneware glazes on the porcelain. The opaque
glazes tend to look nearly the same, but the transparent and
translucent ones look vastly different. The colors are brighter, and
some are different altogether. Since I love tinkering with glazes, I
now have a couple that look great on the porcelain, but nasty on the
stoneware. (White stoneware tends to have a yellowish tinge to it).
Test, test test......
.......Lo
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