mel jacobson on mon 12 jul 99
the japanese use the right hand to tap center.
one of the most common misconceptions about
tap centering is doing it backwards.... you must tap into the
on coming clay. many have learned it backwards, and insist it
is the right way...sorry.
for a western potter the left hand should be used.
as the wheel is spinning you tap....with a smack,
touch, rebound...with the left hand.
it is amazing how many people do it backwards...
and the pot flys off the wheel.
the japanese tap with the right hand as the wheel
spins the opposite direction.
that is a fact.
i can get almost everyone in a workshop, or classroom to learn
this method in a few hours of practice.
i use an empty al. soda can to demo, or a styrofoam cup.
mel/mn
yes, one of the joys of the group, is we do it many ways...but
sometimes we abuse the laws of physics to get the job done.
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
from minnetonka, minnesota, u.s.a.
Stephen Grimmer on tue 13 jul 99
mel,
Well, "wrong" or not, I tap on center with my right hand. Spank it three
times, and I'm in the zone. There's probably a whole laundery list of things
that I do "wrong" (different from the Japanese) but that work for me anyway.
Oh, well, time to check the kiln.
steve grimmer
marion illinois
----------
>From: mel jacobson
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: tap centering
>Date: Mon, Jul 12, 1999, 8:15 AM
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>the japanese use the right hand to tap center.
>one of the most common misconceptions about
>tap centering is doing it backwards.... you must tap into the
>on coming clay. many have learned it backwards, and insist it
>is the right way...sorry.
>for a western potter the left hand should be used.
>as the wheel is spinning you tap....with a smack,
>touch, rebound...with the left hand.
>
>it is amazing how many people do it backwards...
>and the pot flys off the wheel.
>
>the japanese tap with the right hand as the wheel
>spins the opposite direction.
>that is a fact.
>
>i can get almost everyone in a workshop, or classroom to learn
>this method in a few hours of practice.
>i use an empty al. soda can to demo, or a styrofoam cup.
>mel/mn
>yes, one of the joys of the group, is we do it many ways...but
>sometimes we abuse the laws of physics to get the job done.
>http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>from minnetonka, minnesota, u.s.a.
>
"Terry Sullivan/Nottingham Center for the Arts. San Marcos," on tue 13 jul 99
I can attest to Mels tap centering post.
Watched him teach over a dozen folks, rank beginner to advanced, this simple
technique in a few minutes.
And, yes, he does tap center an inverted styrofoam cup in seconds.
This fellow reduces much of the art of throwing to it's simple basics.
Trouble is people just naturaly want to make things complex. But it ain't.
Thanks again to mel and dannon for one heck of an enjoyable and very
informative week.
Terry Sullivan
Nottingham Center for the Arts
(http://www.nottinghamarts.org)
In moderate sunny San Marcos, CA where we are learning some really neat stuff
from that tall, funny fellow Paul Lewing this week.
Earl Brunner on tue 13 jul 99
Mel,
It's my understanding, and I might be wrong, but don't the Japanese throw
with the wheel turning clockwise? In the which case they would do it
opposite of the way that I do it, because I too tap on with the right hand,
only my wheel turns counterclockwise.
I do it at about 2 to 3 oclock on the wheelhead and I tap into the oncoming
clay. I don't have a problem and my students that have learned it my way
haven't taken any longer to learn than you estimate for yours.
mel jacobson wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> the japanese use the right hand to tap center.
> one of the most common misconceptions about
> tap centering is doing it backwards.... you must tap into the
> on coming clay. many have learned it backwards, and insist it
> is the right way...sorry.
> for a western potter the left hand should be used.
> as the wheel is spinning you tap....with a smack,
> touch, rebound...with the left hand.
>
> it is amazing how many people do it backwards...
> and the pot flys off the wheel.
>
> the japanese tap with the right hand as the wheel
> spins the opposite direction.
> that is a fact.
>
> i can get almost everyone in a workshop, or classroom to learn
> this method in a few hours of practice.
> i use an empty al. soda can to demo, or a styrofoam cup.
> mel/mn
> yes, one of the joys of the group, is we do it many ways...but
> sometimes we abuse the laws of physics to get the job done.
> http://www.pclink.com/melpots
> from minnetonka, minnesota, u.s.a.
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
John K Dellow on tue 13 jul 99
Pull the other one Mel , it plays jingle bells :).
I had to check the date to see if it was April 1st :).
IMHO the average Japanese is right handed and there for tap centres
with the right hand. To me it makes no difference which direction the
wheel is spinning . A gentle hit karate style , with the palm facing up
is all that's needed. I tap centre my planters on polystyrene glued with
liquid nails to a weathertex ( water proof masinite )bat with my right
hand .
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
ICQ : #2193986 {jacka}
E-mail : dellowjk@kewl.com.au
25 Hugh Guinea Ct, Worongary Q 4213
Ph:+61-7-55302875 Fax:+61-7-55253585
Home Page http://www.welcome.to/jkdellow
Kenneth D. Westfall on wed 14 jul 99
Tap left tap right who you trying to kid! I tap with the right hand cause
I'm RIGHT handed and I don't knock pots off the wheel. There is no right
or wrong way, just what works for yourself. What's next only artistic pots
are thrown with the left hand, trimed with the right, and the tongue must
be hanging from the left side of your face. (Joke people just a joke.)
Kenneth D. Westfall
Pine Hill Pottery
R.D. #2 Box 6AA
Harrisville, WV 26362
pinehill@ruralnet.org
http://www.ruralnet.org/pinehillpottery
Ray Aldridge on wed 14 jul 99
At 01:41 PM 7/13/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>mel,
> Well, "wrong" or not, I tap on center with my right hand. Spank it three
>times, and I'm in the zone. There's probably a whole laundery list of things
>that I do "wrong" (different from the Japanese) but that work for me anyway.
>Oh, well, time to check the kiln.
>
I know just what you mean. I learned to spiral-wedge (like everything else
I know how to do) from pictures in books. Unfortunately these were
pictures of Japanese wedgers, so I wedged in the wrong direction for so
long that now I can't bring myself to relearn the skill.
Ray
Ron Roy on thu 15 jul 99
I'm with Steve here - been right tapping for 40 years now - have never
lost. In fact it's easier to teach from the right than from the left with
counter clockwise rotation. I propose a tapping competition at the next
NCECA - closest and fastest to the center gets the brag.
RR
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>mel,
> Well, "wrong" or not, I tap on center with my right hand. Spank it three
>times, and I'm in the zone. There's probably a whole laundery list of things
>that I do "wrong" (different from the Japanese) but that work for me anyway.
>Oh, well, time to check the kiln.
>
>steve grimmer
>marion illinois
>
>----------
>>From: mel jacobson
>>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>>Subject: tap centering
>>Date: Mon, Jul 12, 1999, 8:15 AM
>>
>
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>the japanese use the right hand to tap center.
>>one of the most common misconceptions about
>>tap centering is doing it backwards.... you must tap into the
>>on coming clay. many have learned it backwards, and insist it
>>is the right way...sorry.
>>for a western potter the left hand should be used.
>>as the wheel is spinning you tap....with a smack,
>>touch, rebound...with the left hand.
>>
>>it is amazing how many people do it backwards...
>>and the pot flys off the wheel.
>>
>>the japanese tap with the right hand as the wheel
>>spins the opposite direction.
>>that is a fact.
>>
>>i can get almost everyone in a workshop, or classroom to learn
>>this method in a few hours of practice.
>>i use an empty al. soda can to demo, or a styrofoam cup.
>>mel/mn
>>yes, one of the joys of the group, is we do it many ways...but
>>sometimes we abuse the laws of physics to get the job done.
>>http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>>from minnetonka, minnesota, u.s.a.
>>
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9?= Sprattling on fri 16 jul 99
------------------
=3E----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3EAt 01:41 PM 7/13/99 EDT, you wrote:
=3E=3E----------------------------Original =
message----------------------------
=3E=3Emel,
=3E=3E Well, =22wrong=22 or not, I tap on center with my right hand. =
Spank it three
=3E=3Etimes, and I'm in the zone. There's probably a whole laundery list of =
things
=3E=3Ethat I do =22wrong=22 (different from the Japanese) but that work for =
me anyway.
=3E=3EOh, well, time to check the kiln.
=3E=3E
=3E
=3EI know just what you mean. I learned to spiral-wedge (like everything =
else
=3EI know how to do) from pictures in books. Unfortunately these were
=3Epictures of Japanese wedgers, so I wedged in the wrong direction for so
=3Elong that now I can't bring myself to relearn the skill.
=3E
=3ERay
Oh=21 I've tapped on center with my right hand for 30 years=21 Didn't know =
it
was =22wrong=22. Works right for me=21
Blessings,
Ren=E9 Stone Burner Studio
Where Steven Hill will be in two and a half short weeks=21=21 Can't wait.
(Still not too late to sign up=21)
Fay & Ralph Loewenthal on fri 16 jul 99
Fay has got it right, and she does it with her right hand. I took a
40cm bat and glued on thin foam rubber. I then put the bat on
the wheel and drew 4 concentric circles equidistant from each
other, and the outer circumference. The pots are placed on in
the centre and do not move if I just hold them lightly with my left
hand while "turning" with my right. I do not know where I got the
idea from, but it works. Fay now uses that bat more than I do.
Ralph in PE SA
Wynne Wilbur on sun 18 jul 99
Amazing that something I took pretty much for granted for 20 years
could spark such a discussion! I have always tap centered with my left
hand because I am left handed. I don't remember my undergrad instructor
ever discussing which hand to use though, and I think he did it fairly
well for about 40 years with his right hand.
One thing he did teach us that I haven't seen mentioned yet is the
use of a jar lid to hold the pot down. Although foam rubber will help
keep it from sliding, it won't keep the pot from pulling up. A jar lid
(about 1/2 smaller than the diameter of the bottom of the pot), centered
on the bottom, helps keep your finger from pushing through the pot by
distributing the pressure to a bigger and stronger area next to the wall
of the pot. I never use wads (or foam for that matter) unless I am
trimming the inside of the foot (where the jar lid would sit), because
the lid works so well. It enables me to keep picking the pot up to
check the trimming progress and I can easily recenter it with a tap or
two.
Wynne Wilbur
graduate student, Univ of Florida
Faye Clarke on mon 19 jul 99
Well I thought about this centering business as I was at the wheel doing
exactly that and decided I'd put my method out to you all...
I never have learned to do the tap dance business...perhaps because I have
never taken the time or had the patience to learn... Called make a living
now.!!!!!!
So this is what I learned by trial and error... I set the pot that I want
to trim down on the wheel head as close to center as I can eyeball it and
then give the wheel a little kick.... as I take the squared end of the
trimming tool and run a Little groove around the outer edge of the bottom
of the pot... If the pot is slightly out of center-- one side of the groove
will be closer to an edge than the other...Then I move the pot-- only
slightly, toward the slimmest part of the outer edge...
Then I run a second groove- to check again.. usually for me ... by this
time it is dead on...
This method I find is good because although you the top of the pot may not
be centered but the bottom may be... or vice versa.... this way you get the
bottom right...
I do believe that we each find ways to do things in the best way for us...
but I really appreciate all the wonderful hints and methods you all share
on CLAYART>>> best school since sliced bread... real experiences shared by
real folks!!!
Faye Clarke on Vancouver Island... where the sun shines now (most of the
time) and the bush tits come in droves, hang upside down, eating bugs and
singing their sweet songs. Delightful nonassuming colored critters.
At 01:48 PM 7/18/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Amazing that something I took pretty much for granted for 20 years
>could spark such a discussion! I have always tap centered with my left
>hand because I am left handed. I don't remember my undergrad instructor
>ever discussing which hand to use though, and I think he did it fairly
>well for about 40 years with his right hand.
> One thing he did teach us that I haven't seen mentioned yet is the
>use of a jar lid to hold the pot down. Although foam rubber will help
>keep it from sliding, it won't keep the pot from pulling up. A jar lid
>(about 1/2 smaller than the diameter of the bottom of the pot), centered
>on the bottom, helps keep your finger from pushing through the pot by
>distributing the pressure to a bigger and stronger area next to the wall
>of the pot. I never use wads (or foam for that matter) unless I am
>trimming the inside of the foot (where the jar lid would sit), because
>the lid works so well. It enables me to keep picking the pot up to
>check the trimming progress and I can easily recenter it with a tap or
>two.
>
>Wynne Wilbur
>graduate student, Univ of Florida
>
>
Pamala Browne on wed 21 jul 99
No! No! The tongue is positioned curled to the left and pressing against the
back of your upper teeth !! Big grin!!
----- Original Message -----
From: Kenneth D. Westfall
To:
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 1999 6:28 AM
Subject: Re: tap centering
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Tap left tap right who you trying to kid! I tap with the right hand cause
> I'm RIGHT handed and I don't knock pots off the wheel. There is no right
> or wrong way, just what works for yourself. What's next only artistic
pots
> are thrown with the left hand, trimed with the right, and the tongue must
> be hanging from the left side of your face. (Joke people just a joke.)
> Kenneth D. Westfall
> Pine Hill Pottery
> R.D. #2 Box 6AA
> Harrisville, WV 26362
> pinehill@ruralnet.org
> http://www.ruralnet.org/pinehillpottery
>
Bonnie Staffel on mon 12 may 03
Dear Taylor,
You might think ahead and bisque fire your chuck. I make a number of them
for different shoulders. I then soak each before using it so that I can peg
down the bottom when I get it centered.
The secret of "tapping" is that of flicking the chuck as if to knock off a
fly. Your left hand plays a big role as that is where your eyes are
focused. When the side of the chuck is nearest your left finger, you flick
tap the chuck. After a few tries you will find how hard to flick it. The
reasoning here is that by the time the near side gets the message, it will
be near your flicking middle finger. Some students anticipate the rotation,
hence the timing is off and they will not center the chuck. I am thinking
that Mel is referring to flooding the wheel head before placing the chuck
onto it, then while it is "floating", one can follow the above directions.
I also suggest that you use something with some weight like a bisque pot
that you don't mind losing as it flies across the studio on your first try
at flicking. Remember, like flicking a fly off your friend's temple, just a
gentle nudge enough to lift the chuck enough for it to sit down centered on
the rotating wheel. Centrifugal force can also be helpful here so you do
not want the wheel speeding, find your timing to get the rhythm of the
rotating chuck. By the time you have tapped the chuck three times you have
probably lost the ability of the chuck to move. That is why I suggest using
a bisque pot instead to practice with.
With kindest regards, Bonnie Staffel of Charlevoix. 53 years of experience
working and teaching and of course, still at it.
mel jacobson on sat 13 may 06
there is an old axiom in learning.
you can't teach a person to balance a bike,
you can't teach a person to float in water.
they are feelings. you must experience the feeling
before you learn the task. it is all up to self.
you can memorize a passage of text, but you
cannot memorize centering clay until you experience
the feeling, and then you know.
i sit at the wheel with folks learning tap centering.
hold their hands. you do not ever ruin any pots learning,
as it is done with an aluminum soda can.
or, a plastic cup, turned on its rim.
the best of all is a foam cup..a white one. upside down,
with your off finger in the center. you hold the foam
cup down gently as the wheel spins. you flick the
body of the cup with a sharp but gentle flick with
either your finger or side of your hand.
you keep doing it til the pot jumps to the center.
when it does....you will jump too....as you will
be surprised. once you feel it, you have it forever.
then you can use leather hard pots. slow and easy.
into the center of the spinning wheel....and bingo.
the last few workshops i have done we have had
100 percent of the attendees learn to tap center
in about 10 minutes. they all got it...one woman cried.
we used foam cups.
it seems impossible, but you have to tap so lite that
you almost do not touch the cup...and the speed is
rather medium/slow.
it is one of the most wonderful skills any potter can have.
you should see an old japanese master potter tap centering
on a banding wheel...zip, in the center.
in fact, in my opinion, very few potters have a clue how
a banding wheel works. the off thumb is placed at the
base of the top half of the wheel. (as you know, a banding
wheel has a two part system, wheel head with a shaft/hole or bearing.
bottom half a shaft and base.) the thumb controls the
speed and the stop and start. the other hand holds the brush.
you never grab the top of the wheel head and spin it fast. in many
old banding wheels there is a knurled area at the bottom of the shaft
near the base of the wheel...that is where the thumb should be placed.
i designed a banding wheel for kurt years ago for better control.
used a sheaf/pulley clamped to the knurled area, then we added
a rubber tire to the pulley. (can't remember what he used for
the rubber tire.) he had this almost huge handle under
the banding wheel to gently move the wheel head.
nice...i think he still uses it. you all know, need, the
`mother of invention` .....
mel
from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://my.pclink.com/~melpots3
Eric Serritella on fri 22 sep 06
Here's a trick I use an option for tap centering when trimming and
burnishing thin rimmed Yixing-style teapots and teabowls...
Dampen the wheel head with a little film of water and then tap center (or
whatever method you use) the pot into place. The water creates a little
lubrication and prevents damage. Once centered, take the edge of a tool and
seal the bottom lightly with a little pressure. This will create a suction
and the piece stays in place while you trim. No need to add wads of clay or
anything else.
To get the pot off the wheel, take the edge of a sharper tool, like a metal
rib, and with the wheel turning slowly run the sharp edge along the
attachment while holding onto the piece. It will break the seal. This method
creates very little, if any damage to the rim. You can smooth the rim out if
necessary with a sponge or chamois.
Eric
Muddy Paws Pottery
528 Sebring Road
Newfield, NY 14867
607.564.7810
www.muddypawspottery.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince Pitelka"
To:
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: tap centering
> > it helps if the rim is firm and broad.
> > razor blade thin rims are ugly anyway..so beef up the rim.
>
> Ah, dear Mel, another absolute and completely unsupportable statement. In
> fact, rims that quickly come to a rather sharp edge or corner can be very
> beautiful and functional, especially when one considers that this is not
an
> edge that encounters frequent abrasion in the cupboard or sink. Thicker
> rims can be equally functional and beautiful, but it would be a real shame
> to thicken up the rim just so a person could tap center according to your
> instructions. Tap centering is never any faster than simply moving a pot
to
> center by watching it's position and shifting it as needed. Tap centering
> is a neat trick, but that's all it is - a neat trick. It's great if it
> appeals to you, but of no use at all if it doesn't.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
> Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
> vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
> http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Craig Clark on fri 22 sep 06
Well, Vince, as you suggest, beauty is indeed in the eye of the
beholder. This particular beholder far prefers a fleshy lip on a
functional piece as opposed to a thin one. Much as I prefer rounded
forms to slender ones. I far prefer the feel of a nice rounded lip on a
cup over something which comes to a sharp edge. I've found I'm also
predisposed to fuller lips on plates, bowls and saucers. I have always
been drawn to the curves of nature and appreciate the esthetic
connection in the form a pot.
As to the tap centering, I'll have to differ about the moving a pot
about by watching being just as fast as tap centering. I do it a little
differently than Mel San, but, with a few tap, taps, I've centered the
piece and I'm trimming away. This has proven to be quicker and easier
for me once I picked up the technique. I also tend to use a small cap
(have several of different sizes) on the bottom that I'll put my finger
on to keep the pot in position if it is a small one. This illiminates
the need for little coils to anchor the pot. I have not used the trick
of applying moisture to the wheel and lip of the piece yet.
Another trimming technique that I saw demonstrated by a Korean
potter last year was even less involved. He just put the pot on a small
mound of clay in the center of the wheel. Held the pot with his left
hand, which had a glove on it (heavily grogged body), and quickly
trimmed with his right hand. He did not tap or move the pot about by
looking at it. Just used the mound of clay as his centering device. He
really got after it with his trimming as well. Not a movement or second
wasted. A quick deft cutting action and he was done. Great pots, fine
technique, many , many years of experience.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 St
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
Vince Pitelka wrote:
>> it helps if the rim is firm and broad.
>> razor blade thin rims are ugly anyway..so beef up the rim.
>
> Ah, dear Mel, another absolute and completely unsupportable
> statement. In
> fact, rims that quickly come to a rather sharp edge or corner can be very
> beautiful and functional, especially when one considers that this is
> not an
> edge that encounters frequent abrasion in the cupboard or sink. Thicker
> rims can be equally functional and beautiful, but it would be a real
> shame
> to thicken up the rim just so a person could tap center according to your
> instructions. Tap centering is never any faster than simply moving a
> pot to
> center by watching it's position and shifting it as needed. Tap
> centering
> is a neat trick, but that's all it is - a neat trick. It's great if it
> appeals to you, but of no use at all if it doesn't.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
> Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
> vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
> http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
mel jacobson on fri 22 sep 06
i teach tap center to every group i work with.
it is easy, quick. in most cases, as happened in
s.carolina...about 60 folks went home able to
tap center. it took elizabeth priddy about two minutes
to get it `smack on`.
here is a small primer:
if you are going to trim/turn a ring foot to a
a perfectly leather hard pot...the water allows
you to tap to center, tap the top of the pot
and have the pot stay in place with vacuum.
i have a soft brush and apply a very thin coat of
water to the pots rim. it helps if the rim is firm and broad.
razor blade thin rims are ugly anyway..so beef up the rim.
thin rims tend to deform when trimming anyway. tap center
is no exception. i then add a light coat of water to the
wheel head.
place the pot as close to center as possible...turn on the
wheel to medium speed and tap with the pot coming into
your hand. in many cases, as the wheel spins away from you...the
left hand fingers actually work best. if you use your right, then you
have to hit back a bit, as the pot comes to your hand. if you hit
the pot away as it passes you.....it will spin off the wheel head. there
are as many
simple hand methods to tap as there are centering systems. you just find
a way.
dry centering with tap works just as well...it does not matter.
same physics problem. the water is used to attach a leather hard
pot to the wheel head. (a plasti-batt) works like a charm.
then when you trim a plate...you can just lift it off, twist the
plasti-batt and the plate releases.
often potters that tap center find that getting the pot to
release the vacumm is the hardest part of tap centering/turning/trimming.
the batt allows you to twist and release.
a dry pot that needs to be decorated can be tapped to center either
right side up/or upside down. just be careful...a lighter tap is needed.
(leather hard pots have a natural `grip` to the wheel.)
same for a banding wheel....just tap with your dominant hand as you
spin the banding wheel with your off thumb. tap/tap..center.
the skill of tap centering is a big time saver, a natural way to center
pots after you have thrown them. water attachment is just very
fast and easy. no balls of clay slammed against your rim to distort
or make a mess of the rim. without doubt, water attachment makes
for better, less messy rims. a quick burnish with your fingers after the
release, and the rim is clean.
worrying the pot to the middle, using the wheel head rings is long
and tiresome. adding clay balls is messy. and the clay has to be
carefully cleaned off the pot. it takes ten times as long to
add balls of clay as the standard tap to center/water vacuum
method. if you are making 4 pots a day...and have an hour
to turn the ring feet...who cares?
i can trim 30 big bowls in an hour using the tap/wet method.
mel
in most cases, if you teach people to use their legs when
centering, teach them to tap center the same day, same time...
and they `get it`...they have just accomplished the most
important aspects of wheel throwing...wet clay center, is the
same as tap center....same basic problem...they go hand in hand.
from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
Paul Herman on fri 22 sep 06
Howdy Vince,
I disagree with your claim that tap centering is as slow as stopping
the wheel and pushing the pot into the center. For me, it speeded up
the centering process a lot. You are still pushing the pot to center,
but without stopping the wheel. It usually takes just a few taps, and
a couple of seconds. I tried a gif grip a couple of times, but never
had the desire to own one. But as you know, I have neo-Luddite
tendencies, and don't change things unless I see a real need to.
All it is is a neat trick? No way! I consider it a great time saving
technique. Learned it from John Bogard out at Planet X Pottery in 1977.
And EP, I would "never" do it on a wet wheel head. Water mungs up the
lip.
Best,
Paul Herman
In Long Valley, where I'm sweating it over the durn fall firing
again, the deadlines breathing down my neck, and the AZ woodfire
conference is going to bite eight days out of the time left. Ah well,
it'll be good to take a drive through the desert. Plus I have a
really great new puppy.
Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
http://greatbasinpottery.com
On Sep 22, 2006, at 5:48 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
> Tap centering is never any faster than simply moving a pot to
> center by watching it's position and shifting it as needed. Tap
> centering
> is a neat trick, but that's all it is - a neat trick. It's great
> if it
> appeals to you, but of no use at all if it doesn't.
> - Vince
>
Vince Pitelka on fri 22 sep 06
> it helps if the rim is firm and broad.
> razor blade thin rims are ugly anyway..so beef up the rim.
Ah, dear Mel, another absolute and completely unsupportable statement. In
fact, rims that quickly come to a rather sharp edge or corner can be very
beautiful and functional, especially when one considers that this is not an
edge that encounters frequent abrasion in the cupboard or sink. Thicker
rims can be equally functional and beautiful, but it would be a real shame
to thicken up the rim just so a person could tap center according to your
instructions. Tap centering is never any faster than simply moving a pot to
center by watching it's position and shifting it as needed. Tap centering
is a neat trick, but that's all it is - a neat trick. It's great if it
appeals to you, but of no use at all if it doesn't.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Elizabeth Priddy on sat 23 sep 06
And EP, I would "never" do it on a wet wheel head.
Water mungs up the
lip.
Best,
Paul Herman
__________________________________
An indiscriminate application of lots of water
or any amount of not-pure clean water certainly would.
A light coat of water makes a vacuum and is hardly
noticable, much less a problem.
E
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
__________________________________________________
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Vince Pitelka on sat 23 sep 06
It was never my intention to deny the benefits of tap centering. It's a
neat method that works very well for some people. But like so many
techniques, there are many alternatives and it is up to the individual to
choose the one that works best for her/him. My point was that someone who
is really good at eyeball centering, stopping the wheel and moving the pot,
can accomplish this just as fast as tap centering, and over time will builds
an intuitive sense of center. It gets easier and easier, as I am sure is
the case with tap centering. If the latter works better for you, that's
great. I just don't want to see anyone proselytizing for tap-centering,
claiming that it is the ONLY effective way to center small pots on the
wheel, because that's BS. As with almost all things clay, each person must
figure out which method works best for them. It's wonderful to see reasoned
opinions such as Craig Dunn Clark's or Paul Herman's. That's what this
discussion list is for.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
claybair on sat 23 sep 06
So... will I bung things up for all of you when I
confess I tap to center my pieces on the GG?
Another confession is that I use all the methods
except pushing to center and stopping the wheel
though I used to do that too.
It all depends on what works best for the circumstances.
As always there is no one right way.... they are all right ways.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Herman
Howdy Vince,
I disagree with your claim that tap centering is as slow as stopping
the wheel and pushing the pot into the center. For me, it speeded up
the centering process a lot. You are still pushing the pot to center,
but without stopping the wheel. It usually takes just a few taps, and
a couple of seconds. I tried a gif grip a couple of times, but never
had the desire to own one. But as you know, I have neo-Luddite
tendencies, and don't change things unless I see a real need to.
All it is is a neat trick? No way! I consider it a great time saving
technique. Learned it from John Bogard out at Planet X Pottery in 1977.
And EP, I would "never" do it on a wet wheel head. Water mungs up the
lip.
Best,
Paul Herman
In Long Valley, where I'm sweating it over the durn fall firing
again, the deadlines breathing down my neck, and the AZ woodfire
conference is going to bite eight days out of the time left. Ah well,
it'll be good to take a drive through the desert. Plus I have a
really great new puppy.
--
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