Vanessa Bullick on sun 18 jul 99
I currently have my studio in my house, and would like some advice regarding
on the safety issues of the dust it creates. I use only pre-mixed clays
and do not use glaze materials so I have assumed that this is OK - so the
only dust I create is from dry clay.
Vanessa
Philip Schroeder on mon 19 jul 99
In a message dated 99-07-18 13:54:07 EDT, you write:
<< currently have my studio in my house, and would like some advice regarding
on the safety issues of the dust it creates. I use only pre-mixed clays
and do not use glaze materials so I have assumed that this is OK - so the
only dust I create is from dry clay.>>
Hi Vanessa,
Likewise, my studio is in the house; have forced myself to get in the habit
of mopping versed sweeping (most of the time. If I have lots of trimming
scarpes, I try to sweep them while they are still damp.) This is probably a
good practice from a health perspective but equally important it cuts down on
the dust/mess that can get tracked around the house. Sweeping just lauches
those little particals into the air; they get everywhere, including your
lungs. Phil Schroeder in Chicago
Ron Roy on thu 22 jul 99
Clay dust is full of silica - and some clays have other nasties as well.
The best way to keep dust to a minimum is to use a vacume cleaner that
exhausts to the outside - no sweeping, the worst silica particles are the
finest and can stay suspended for hours and days depending on air currents
and your heating system.
What comes out of a kiln during firing can be even worse - make sure all
fumes are vented ourside.
RR
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I currently have my studio in my house, and would like some advice regarding
>on the safety issues of the dust it creates. I use only pre-mixed clays
>and do not use glaze materials so I have assumed that this is OK - so the
>only dust I create is from dry clay.
>
>Vanessa
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Arnold Howard on fri 23 jul 99
Is there a way to vacuum safely without having to exhaust to the
outside?
Arnold Howard
> The best way to keep dust to a minimum is to use a
> vacume cleaner that
> exhausts to the outside - no sweeping, the worst
> silica particles are the
> finest and can stay suspended for hours and days
> depending on air currents
> and your heating system.
>
> What comes out of a kiln during firing can be even
> worse - make sure all
> fumes are vented ourside.
>
> RR
>
> >----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> >I currently have my studio in my house, and would
> like some advice regarding
> >on the safety issues of the dust it creates. I
> use only pre-mixed clays
> >and do not use glaze materials so I have assumed
> that this is OK - so the
> >only dust I create is from dry clay.
> >
> >Vanessa
>
> Ron Roy
> 93 Pegasus Trail
> Scarborough, Ontario
> Canada M1G 3N8
> Tel: 416-439-2621
> Fax: 416-438-7849
>
> Web page:
> http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Gary & Carla Goldberg on fri 23 jul 99
Hi Vanessa - I also have a studio in my house. To make matters worse,
we heat the house with forced air (the air goes through ducts all over
the house and blows heat into each room via vents on floor). Because of
this, I also only use commercial glazes and clay.
I found that if I mop instead of vacuum, that helps. And if I am
working with bisque or something that needs a light sanding, I use a wet
sponge instead of the green or white sanding pads sold at the craft
stores. This cuts down a lot on the dust.
They are finding out that people that have spent years around this dust
with no protection are developing respiratory problems similar to
overexposure to asbestos. That's enough to scare me. I'm not sure how
small the clay particles are, but asbestos is so small that it can get
inhaled in your lungs and literally work it's way thru your body (like a
sliver) but on a micro level.
I'm not trying to scare you. Just keep your area clean and if you have
to mix anything, I would go outside if I were you.
happy glazing, Carla in Alaska
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Original message----------------------------
> >I currently have my studio in my house, and would like some advice regarding
> >
> >Vanessa
John K Dellow on fri 23 jul 99
Another idea is to have a dirt floor covered with a 50/50 mix of
brickies fatty sand and saw dust . This keeps the dust down and
is nice surface to work on.
Ron Roy wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Clay dust is full of silica - and some clays have other nasties as well.
> The best way to keep dust to a minimum is to use a vacume cleaner that
> exhausts to the outside - no sweeping, the worst silica particles are the
> finest and can stay suspended for hours and days depending on air currents
> and your heating system.
>
> What comes out of a kiln during firing can be even worse - make sure all
> fumes are vented ourside.
>
> RR
>
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >I currently have my studio in my house, and would like some advice regarding
> >on the safety issues of the dust it creates. I use only pre-mixed clays
> >and do not use glaze materials so I have assumed that this is OK - so the
> >only dust I create is from dry clay.
> >
> >Vanessa
>
> Ron Roy
> 93 Pegasus Trail
> Scarborough, Ontario
> Canada M1G 3N8
> Tel: 416-439-2621
> Fax: 416-438-7849
>
> Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
--
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
ICQ : #2193986 {jacka}
E-mail : dellowjk@kewl.com.au
25 Hugh Guinea Ct, Worongary Q 4213
Ph:+61-7-55302875 Fax:+61-7-55253585
Home Page http://www.welcome.to/jkdellow
Ron Roy on sat 24 jul 99
Hi Arnold - I am sure there will be those who will recommend a Hepa (sp)
filter - well I think some of the finer particles are going to get through
- and they are the worst - any good filter is going to clog up pretty quick
in a clay studio - I am guessing but I would think this would limit the
efficiency and leave too much clay in place.
Glad to eat some crow on this if someone can point me to some specific
trials involving powdered clay.
I've eaten plenty of crow over the years - I think I'm developing a taste
for it - helps a lot if you can find the right spices though.
RR
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Is there a way to vacuum safely without having to exhaust to the
>outside?
>
>Arnold Howard
>
>> The best way to keep dust to a minimum is to use a
>> vacume cleaner that
>> exhausts to the outside - no sweeping, the worst
>> silica particles are the
>> finest and can stay suspended for hours and days
>> depending on air currents
>> and your heating system.
>>
>> What comes out of a kiln during firing can be even
>> worse - make sure all
>> fumes are vented ourside.
>>
>> RR
>>
>> >----------------------------Original
>> message----------------------------
>> >I currently have my studio in my house, and would
>> like some advice regarding
>> >on the safety issues of the dust it creates. I
>> use only pre-mixed clays
>> >and do not use glaze materials so I have assumed
>> that this is OK - so the
>> >only dust I create is from dry clay.
>> >
>> >Vanessa
>>
>> Ron Roy
>> 93 Pegasus Trail
>> Scarborough, Ontario
>> Canada M1G 3N8
>> Tel: 416-439-2621
>> Fax: 416-438-7849
>>
>> Web page:
>> http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Christopher J. Anton on sun 25 jul 99
I haven't tried this, but have you considered piping the exhaust output to
the bottom of a large container of water? Care would have to be taken to
ensure that there was not too much pressure to overcome and that water could
not back-up into the vacuum cleaner.
----- Original Message -----
From: Arnold Howard
To:
Sent: Friday, July 23, 1999 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: Home Studio Safety
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> Is there a way to vacuum safely without having to exhaust to the
> outside?
>
> Arnold Howard
>
> > The best way to keep dust to a minimum is to use a
> > vacume cleaner that
> > exhausts to the outside - no sweeping, the worst
> > silica particles are the
> > finest and can stay suspended for hours and days
> > depending on air currents
> > and your heating system.
> >
> > What comes out of a kiln during firing can be even
> > worse - make sure all
> > fumes are vented ourside.
> >
> > RR
> >
> > >----------------------------Original
> > message----------------------------
> > >I currently have my studio in my house, and would
> > like some advice regarding
> > >on the safety issues of the dust it creates. I
> > use only pre-mixed clays
> > >and do not use glaze materials so I have assumed
> > that this is OK - so the
> > >only dust I create is from dry clay.
> > >
> > >Vanessa
> >
> > Ron Roy
> > 93 Pegasus Trail
> > Scarborough, Ontario
> > Canada M1G 3N8
> > Tel: 416-439-2621
> > Fax: 416-438-7849
> >
> > Web page:
> > http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Janet Kaiser on sun 25 jul 99
Lynette Gaydon of Harlech Pottery (North Wales, UK) wrote to Ceramics Review
some time ago praising the Dyson vacuum cleaner that they use in their
workshop. The container can be washed out and the filter is "micro-pore" so
collects some pretty small particles.
According to Lynette the filters (an expensive item!) can be washed out and
reused. Lynette also said that they have been using theirs for some time to
no ill effect (to the cleaner) and it is very effective at collecting all
debris including clay dust in the studio environment.
Retailing at around two hundred UK pounds, this is quite an item for a small
workshop, but may be cheaper than ducting out of the building.
Dyson deny any responsibility and only guarantee their vacuum cleaners for
"normal household use".
Also usual disclaimer... I do not work for Dyson!
Janet Kaiser
The Chapel of Art, Criccieth, GB-Wales
Home of The International Potters Path http://www.the-coa.org.uk
EMAIL: postbox@the-coa.org.uk
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Is there a way to vacuum safely without having to exhaust to the
outside?
Arnold Howard
> The best way to keep dust to a minimum is to use a
> vacume cleaner that
> exhausts to the outside - no sweeping, the worst
> silica particles are the
> finest and can stay suspended for hours and days
> depending on air currents
> and your heating system.
>
> What comes out of a kiln during firing can be even
> worse - make sure all
> fumes are vented ourside.
>
> RR
>
> >----------------------------Originalmessage--------------------
> >I currently have my studio in my house, and would
> like some advice regarding
> >on the safety issues of the dust it creates. I
> use only pre-mixed clays
> >and do not use glaze materials so I have assumed
> that this is OK - so the
> >only dust I create is from dry clay.
Dorothy Weber on tue 27 jul 99
Can any one recommend a good vacuum for the studio. We tried a shop vac,it
was good for nothing. We currently spray broom with enddust and sweep and
soak a towel and wipe the floor rinse and repeat. Would really appreciate
recommendations on a good vacuum.
Thanks in advance!
Dorothy
Manakin-Sabot, Va.
Carol Jackaway on tue 27 jul 99
I have a home studio also. My basement is unfinished. The concert is sealed
to keep the water from coming in. My heater does not have an intake vent in
the basement but one is on the first floor of the house. I use commerically
made clays and glazes because I already have asthma and didn't want to use
dry chemicals.
I have put up plastic sheeting on the exposed wood beams to keep further dirt
from coming down onto my work. I am a bsuy mom of two children and do alot
of shows so cleaning th studio is not always done. (I know, I should get it
done) When I do clean I start on the work tables, I wet sponge with a
water/bleach solution. I then spray down the floors and use a big green
machine rug and floor clean to pick up the fine particals. A bleach/water
solution is used here too.
Do you think that this is getting up alot of the "dirt"? It seems like it is
but wanted others thoughts
Keep my allergies and asthma under control in Parkside Pa.
Carol Jackaway
Anji Henderson on wed 28 jul 99
I have found that wet is good for keeping the dust down, but it takes
longer.. Your shop vac. I have a dinosaur CraftsWOman. (but that's the only
people that make tools right I put cheese cloth (with of course Duct
Tape or duck as some seem stuck to call it) Any way, I folded it several
times and put it over the blower part, and dampen it before vacuuming..
"Vual"la! hehehehe
Oh, we think were so funny today...
Hope this helps
Anji
Ron Roy on wed 28 jul 99
Hi Anji,
I let em hang for a while - they improve with ageing - just like clay.
I'm guessing here - but the more efficient a filter is at stopping the very
fine silica the sooner it will clog up. By the way - kiln wash is loaded
with cristobalite - the more you fire unfluxed silica and clay over 1100C
the more cristobalite is generated. Much kiln wash is 50/50 silica and
kaolin so firing it over and over is a perfect setup for cristobalite
production. I mention this here because of all the talk about cleaning kiln
shelves. Same thing with used bricks - if you are not aware those 2nd hand
bricks you thought were a bargain - might be the most expensive bricks in
the world.
Cristobalite is a very dangerous form of silica - very fine - you don't
see it - so it gets deeply in the lungs - worse than quartz. Good thing to
remember when you are grinding and scrubbing shelves - particularly sans
respirator or with an inadequate model. The best would be outside with a
good breeze blowing the dust away.
By the way - has anyone ever gotten any of this safety stuff in school?
RR
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>RR - aren't crows stringy??
>
>Don't they have special filters for clay?? We have some big thing in our
>studio that sucks junk out, and I have never seen anyone do anything with it
>but turn it off and let the room get thick.. Yes, I'm usually long winded,
>but if I go on a tyrant about the ones that turn it off I'm sure I will be
>hearing a lot form the group.....
>Dusty in Maryland
>Anji
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Joan & Tom Woodward on wed 28 jul 99
Gavin:
I bite. What's the responsible way to dispose of the sludge? Is it toxic
in sludge form? If I could pipe from my clay sink down into a crawl space
and wash my waste water down the pipe, would I be contaminating my house
from the accumulated gunk underneath? Thanks.
Joan in Alaska where the environment is far too beautiful to add to any
pollution.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gavin Stairs
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Monday, July 26, 1999 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: Home Studio Safety
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
At 04:31 PM 24/07/99 -0400, Arnold Howard wrote:
>Is there a way to vacuum safely without having to exhaust to the
>outside?
Hi Arnold,
I don't see why Ron should get to eat all the crow. Here's my slice of the
action.
If I were told to design such a system, I'd try a water mist system,
followed by a HEPA filter optimized for small particles down around 0.5
microns. The water mist system is a spray box followed by a labyrinth with
wet walls to entrain all the water mist, and the dust. This might be an
open cell foam curtain, or a loose felt, like a furnace filter, with a
water drip cascading down it.
There are lots of variations on this theme, and there are lots of problems,
too. These systems need lots of plumbing and big fans, so they tend to be
noisy, and they require a lot of upkeep. The sort of thing I've just
described would fit in a largish furnace plenum, and cost a few hundred
dollars.
There are water based domestic vacuum cleaners available. They work on
some variation of this theme, but probably skimp on the final filter. Just
how efficient they are for sub-micron sized dust I don't know. Probably a
lot less than 100%. The problem is bypass air (that doesn't come into
contact with the water) and evaporation of dust laden water.
The other system, simply exhausting the air outdoors, works better to keep
the dust from circulating indoors (provided the transfer lines are at
negative pressure, and the positive pressure line to the outside is well
sealed), but it does so at the cost of outdoor pollution.
On balance, I'd forget the vacuum system altogether, and damp mop to clean
up. Make that wet mop. What you want is to dilute the dust sufficiently
that there's negligible dust left on the mopped surface after drying. So
the sequence is, wet mop with lots of water, then damp mop to sop up all
the dirt, and repeat until the mop comes away clean. Then dispose of the
water where it doesn't cause downstream problems. This is much easier if
you keep the studio clean in the first place, and don't contaminate it with
toxic chemicals, like lead frits, manganese from black bodies, etc. Then
what you have to dispose of is really just dirty water, which can go into
the garden, or down the drain with lots of water. Otherwise, you can let
it all settle out, decant the water, bag the wet sludge, let it dry in the
bag, and dispose of that in a responsible way.
The problem of environmental pollution is growing on us, and we need to
think about these things too.
Anyway, that's my bit. Gavin
Morgan Britt on wed 28 jul 99
I heard someone mention Rainbow vacuum. It's what I use - everything is
filtered through water. You can find a used one either through the
classifieds or from the Rainbow outlet in you area for a reasonable price.
The new ones are fitted with a hepa filter, but they claim that it's redundant
in that water is more effective, that they just added the hepa so they could
officially call it an air purifier. (also the price tag is huge). I use mine
for house and studio. When mixing glazes I leave it run right next to the
scale (still using a mask of course). It's noisy that way, but effective.
Dorothy Weber wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Can any one recommend a good vacuum for the studio. We tried a shop vac,it
> was good for nothing. We currently spray broom with enddust and sweep and
> soak a towel and wipe the floor rinse and repeat. Would really appreciate
> recommendations on a good vacuum.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Dorothy
> Manakin-Sabot, Va.
--
Morgan Britt
morgan@unlimited.net
Morgan Britt on thu 29 jul 99
I have a heavy duty canister trap (supposedly for catching hair in a beauty
salon). The sludge settles in the canister while the water rises above and
goes down the drain. The canister holds about a gallon. I just pop it off and
empty it in the garbage, wash the screens and reinstall. No toxic waster, no
plugged pipes.
Joan & Tom Woodward wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Gavin:
>
> I bite. What's the responsible way to dispose of the sludge? Is it toxic
> in sludge form? If I could pipe from my clay sink down into a crawl space
> and wash my waste water down the pipe, would I be contaminating my house
> from the accumulated gunk underneath? Thanks.
>
> Joan in Alaska where the environment is far too beautiful to add to any
> pollution.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gavin Stairs
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Date: Monday, July 26, 1999 10:49 AM
> Subject: Re: Home Studio Safety
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> At 04:31 PM 24/07/99 -0400, Arnold Howard wrote:
> >Is there a way to vacuum safely without having to exhaust to the
> >outside?
>
> Hi Arnold,
>
> I don't see why Ron should get to eat all the crow. Here's my slice of the
> action.
>
> If I were told to design such a system, I'd try a water mist system,
> followed by a HEPA filter optimized for small particles down around 0.5
> microns. The water mist system is a spray box followed by a labyrinth with
> wet walls to entrain all the water mist, and the dust. This might be an
> open cell foam curtain, or a loose felt, like a furnace filter, with a
> water drip cascading down it.
>
> There are lots of variations on this theme, and there are lots of problems,
> too. These systems need lots of plumbing and big fans, so they tend to be
> noisy, and they require a lot of upkeep. The sort of thing I've just
> described would fit in a largish furnace plenum, and cost a few hundred
> dollars.
>
> There are water based domestic vacuum cleaners available. They work on
> some variation of this theme, but probably skimp on the final filter. Just
> how efficient they are for sub-micron sized dust I don't know. Probably a
> lot less than 100%. The problem is bypass air (that doesn't come into
> contact with the water) and evaporation of dust laden water.
>
> The other system, simply exhausting the air outdoors, works better to keep
> the dust from circulating indoors (provided the transfer lines are at
> negative pressure, and the positive pressure line to the outside is well
> sealed), but it does so at the cost of outdoor pollution.
>
> On balance, I'd forget the vacuum system altogether, and damp mop to clean
> up. Make that wet mop. What you want is to dilute the dust sufficiently
> that there's negligible dust left on the mopped surface after drying. So
> the sequence is, wet mop with lots of water, then damp mop to sop up all
> the dirt, and repeat until the mop comes away clean. Then dispose of the
> water where it doesn't cause downstream problems. This is much easier if
> you keep the studio clean in the first place, and don't contaminate it with
> toxic chemicals, like lead frits, manganese from black bodies, etc. Then
> what you have to dispose of is really just dirty water, which can go into
> the garden, or down the drain with lots of water. Otherwise, you can let
> it all settle out, decant the water, bag the wet sludge, let it dry in the
> bag, and dispose of that in a responsible way.
>
> The problem of environmental pollution is growing on us, and we need to
> think about these things too.
>
> Anyway, that's my bit. Gavin
--
Morgan Britt
morgan@unlimited.net
Gavin Stairs on thu 29 jul 99
At 09:28 AM 28/07/99 -0400, Joan Woodward wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Gavin:
>
>I bite. What's the responsible way to dispose of the sludge? Is it toxic
>in sludge form? If I could pipe from my clay sink down into a crawl space
>and wash my waste water down the pipe, would I be contaminating my house
>from the accumulated gunk underneath? Thanks.
Hi Joan,
It really depends what material is in it. If it is contaminated with
colorant, like from a black body colored with manganese dioxide, then it
may be a bit of a different problem than for an ordinary clay/feldspar
body. For the latter, it is really just slightly modified clay, not very
different from riverbank clay. That can be disposed of wherever the
siltation will not be troublesome, as for instance under your house,
although you might want to be careful about dumping water in the wrong
place, for fear of rotting or clogging up your drainage. Dumping it down
into a leaching field is not a good idea, as the fine clay will eventually
clog up the pores in the leaching bed. Similarly, dumping down a drainpipe
in the city is not a good idea, as the clay may accrete in the pipes, and
be difficult to clean out. So, dewatering, by settling and decanting,
followed by dumping the damp sludge in the garden, or in a landfill is
probably the best bet.
If there are toxic contaminants, as from glaze colorants and modifiers, the
problem is more complex. In a previous discussion on clayart, we discussed
what one might do with a small amount of Uranium salt. The answer was that
there is no really good way to do this. The legal way is to get it into
the hands of a licensed disposal firm, I suppose. Then they can deal with
it, not always well. The responsible thing is probably to fire it into a
good glass, and dispose of that in a proper landfill. As a practical
matter, what do we do with the sludge from our glaze sink? One answer is
the sludge glaze. Use it as part (or all) of a dark glaze. Some may think
this rather too much of a good thing. Also, it must be tested each batch,
to see what kind of glaze properties you get, so this is not a trouble free
solution.
We are dealing with the same problem as is posed by mining, only on a very
much smaller scale. The mining industry has not been a stellar example, as
leachates from mine operations are a significant pollution problem. Our
quantities are orders of magnitude less, but the problems are the same.
I guess the answer is best phrased in do's and don't's:
1 Do reduce, reuse, recycle.
2 Do separate from clear water.
3 Don't flush it down the sink.
4 Do segregate toxics from non-toxics, where possible.
5 If non-toxic, dispose of as you would ordinary clay or dirt. Try not to
make a dust hazard.
6 Don't let it dry and sit in a lump where it might make a dust hazard.
When contaminated with toxics:
3 Don't put it on your garden or elsewhere where it would contaminate the
soil.
4 Don't put in with ordinary refuse, unless instructed to do so by the
local authorities.
5 Do ask your local disposal authorities what to do with the residue, and
follow their instructions.
6 If they don't know what to do either, try firing it into a block. Use
as a doorstop.
That's about as good as I can do.
Gavin
Kim Marie on thu 29 jul 99
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Roy
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: Home Studio Safety
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
By the way - has anyone ever gotten any of this safety stuff in school?
RR
Ron Roy
Well Ron,
Not always...majored in studio art and the ceramics teacher on mentioned
putting on a mask when mixing clay. You should have seen the studio there.
No one even told the maintance crew that it sweeping the room they should
have a mask on. I didn't learn what a dangerous occupation i was entering
until my prof. for oil painting (wonderful adjunct) brought in a book
describing hazardous materials artists work with and how to minimize
problems. Glad he cared!!
kim
kmarie@odyssey.net
still in NY wondering if I'll ever see Hawaii!
Jennifer Boyer on thu 29 jul 99
I use a Beam Vacuum that I got from Mark Ward. It has good
suction and is designed to be vented outside, although you can
use unvented too...It's a good studio vacuum. Mark's email is wardburner@aol.com
Jennifer
Dorothy Weber wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Can any one recommend a good vacuum for the studio. We tried a shop vac,it
> was good for nothing. We currently spray broom with enddust and sweep and
> soak a towel and wipe the floor rinse and repeat. Would really appreciate
> recommendations on a good vacuum.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Dorothy
> Manakin-Sabot, Va.
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer jfboyer@sover.net
Thistle Hill Pottery
Vermont USA
http://www.vermontcrafts.com/members/ThistleHill.html
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Edouard Bastarache on thu 29 jul 99
------------------
Hello Ron,
Many factors have to be taken into account in the exposure to free silica:
The crystalline silica, alpha quartz, is the major cause of silicosis
worldwide. Altough the silica
polymorphs, cristobalite and tridymite, prove to be more toxic for cells and
are highly fibrogenic under experimental conditions, these two mineralogic
variants are of more limited health variance.
A prerequisite of for this disease to arise is the deposition of respirable
dust in the alveolar region of the lung and its specific harmfulness.
The size of silica particles retained in the human lung is remarkably
constant, with median diameters
ranging from 0.5 to 0.7 micron, therefore most cases of silicosis are
probably caused by quartz particles of the size just described.Of the dust
deposited by inhalation (alveolar deposition), only 2-4=25 are retained over=
a
long period of time( final retention).
Silicosis can develop after 5-25 years of exposure to crystalline SIO2
(quartz=3B cristobalite=3B tridymite-
in this approximately order of increasing fibrogenicity).
Therefore particle size, level of exposure, duration of exposure, type of
crystalline silica,
just to name a few, are factors to be taken into account. We may all forget
about large flakes of
fired kiln wash.
Edouard Bastarache
edouardb=40sorel-tracy.qc.ca
http://www.sorel-tracy.qc.ca/=7Eedouardb/
-----Message d'origine-----
De : Ron Roy =3Cronroy=40total.net=3E
=C0 : CLAYART=40LSV.UKY.EDU =3CCLAYART=40LSV.UKY.EDU=3E
Date : 28 juillet, 1999 09:19
Objet : Re: Home Studio Safety
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hi Anji,
I let em hang for a while - they improve with ageing - just like clay.
I'm guessing here - but the more efficient a filter is at stopping the very
fine silica the sooner it will clog up. By the way - kiln wash is loaded
with cristobalite - the more you fire unfluxed silica and clay over 1100C
the more cristobalite is generated. Much kiln wash is 50/50 silica and
kaolin so firing it over and over is a perfect setup for cristobalite
production. I mention this here because of all the talk about cleaning kiln
shelves. Same thing with used bricks - if you are not aware those 2nd hand
bricks you thought were a bargain - might be the most expensive bricks in
the world.
Cristobalite is a very dangerous form of silica - very fine - you don't
see it - so it gets deeply in the lungs - worse than quartz. Good thing to
remember when you are grinding and scrubbing shelves - particularly sans
respirator or with an inadequate model. The best would be outside with a
good breeze blowing the dust away.
By the way - has anyone ever gotten any of this safety stuff in school?
RR
=3E----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3ERR - aren't crows stringy??
=3E
=3EDon't they have special filters for clay?? We have some big thing in our
=3Estudio that sucks junk out, and I have never seen anyone do anything with
it
=3Ebut turn it off and let the room get thick.. Yes, I'm usually long =
winded,
=3Ebut if I go on a tyrant about the ones that turn it off I'm sure I will =
be
=3Ehearing a lot form the group.....
=3EDusty in Maryland
=3EAnji
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Joseph Herbert on sun 1 aug 99
Anji Henderson wrote: I have found that wet is good for
keeping the dust down, but it takes longer.. Your shop vac...
There are HEPA inserts available for shopvacs. About $30 for a washable
hepa cover for that place inside.
Really, if your current life expectancy is less than 10 or 15 years, you
probably don't need to worry about dust control. Otherwise, stick with
the wet methods. The non-HEPA vacuum doesn't keep the dust down but
infinitely suspended. Clean every three days with a vac and the dust
never settles, you always breath it.
Joe
Pamala Browne on sun 8 aug 99
I may have a rainbow vaccuum to sell--cheap!! I let my ex use it and he
still has part of it,so I would have to gather it all together.I don't need
it anymore and the thing cost me 1300$. Not many people have the money to
fork out for a new one, so if anyone is interested e-mail me at
plbrowne@worldnet.att.net Laters!
----- Original Message -----
From: Morgan Britt
To:
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: Home Studio Safety
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I heard someone mention Rainbow vacuum. It's what I use - everything is
> filtered through water. You can find a used one either through the
> classifieds or from the Rainbow outlet in you area for a reasonable price.
> The new ones are fitted with a hepa filter, but they claim that it's
redundant
> in that water is more effective, that they just added the hepa so they
could
> officially call it an air purifier. (also the price tag is huge). I use
mine
> for house and studio. When mixing glazes I leave it run right next to the
> scale (still using a mask of course). It's noisy that way, but effective.
>
> Dorothy Weber wrote:
>
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > Can any one recommend a good vacuum for the studio. We tried a shop
vac,it
> > was good for nothing. We currently spray broom with enddust and sweep
and
> > soak a towel and wipe the floor rinse and repeat. Would really
appreciate
> > recommendations on a good vacuum.
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> > Dorothy
> > Manakin-Sabot, Va.
>
> --
> Morgan Britt
> morgan@unlimited.net
>
k.smead on mon 9 aug 99
i was researching vacuum cleaners on the internet..and a few sites came up
with bad feedback about the rainbow...... i personally have no knowledge of
the rainbow but there
sure are some unhappy vacuumers out there...might check it out...
katie
in pensacola....deep in the old south...where "air conditioner" sounds far
better right now than a vacuum cleaner..
----- Original Message -----
From: Pamala Browne
To:
Sent: Sunday, August 08, 1999 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: Home Studio Safety
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I may have a rainbow vaccuum to sell--cheap!! I let my ex use it and he
> still has part of it,so I would have to gather it all together.I don't
need
> it anymore and the thing cost me 1300$. Not many people have the money to
> fork out for a new one, so if anyone is interested e-mail me at
> plbrowne@worldnet.att.net Laters!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Morgan Britt
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 11:38 AM
> Subject: Re: Home Studio Safety
>
>
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > I heard someone mention Rainbow vacuum. It's what I use - everything is
> > filtered through water. You can find a used one either through the
> > classifieds or from the Rainbow outlet in you area for a reasonable
price.
> > The new ones are fitted with a hepa filter, but they claim that it's
> redundant
> > in that water is more effective, that they just added the hepa so they
> could
> > officially call it an air purifier. (also the price tag is huge). I use
> mine
> > for house and studio. When mixing glazes I leave it run right next to
the
> > scale (still using a mask of course). It's noisy that way, but
effective.
> >
> > Dorothy Weber wrote:
> >
> > > ----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
> > > Can any one recommend a good vacuum for the studio. We tried a shop
> vac,it
> > > was good for nothing. We currently spray broom with enddust and sweep
> and
> > > soak a towel and wipe the floor rinse and repeat. Would really
> appreciate
> > > recommendations on a good vacuum.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance!
> > > Dorothy
> > > Manakin-Sabot, Va.
> >
> > --
> > Morgan Britt
> > morgan@unlimited.net
> >
Des Howard on tue 10 aug 99
Dorothy
"Cleanliness is next to Godliness, but in a pottery it's next to
Impossible"
I hate dust!
& brooms,
bought & used various vacuum cleaners over the years
replaced motors as the dust/grit/abuse chewed them out.
Presently painting entire pottery, walls, equipment, the lot
this time there is to be *NO DUST* (by Imperial Edict),
(or brooms, gonna cut 'em up into turning tool handles)
Today we bought a wet & dry vacuum cleaner (Volta A$199)
& a dust collection drum for woodworking (20L Triton A$36)
got busy with the hacksaw, a hot glue gun & hose/wand off
the last casualty, 10cm of water in drum then let 'er rip on anything
on walls/flooring brick cracks, sawdust/metal filings/spider
webs/sand/powdered clay
Wouldn't suck up welding rod stubs, but did lift them out of the floor
cracks
&, (rpt) &, NO DUST flying around,
the cleaner barrel only had a eggcup of water in it.
Tomorrow I'll build a trolley for the units (lawnmower wheels),
plus get the saw to work on the broom handles.
Des
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
LUE NSW 2850
Australia
> > Dorothy Weber wrote:
> >
> > > ----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
> > > Can any one recommend a good vacuum for the studio. We tried a
shop
> vac,it
> > > was good for nothing. We currently spray broom with enddust and
sweep
> and
> > > soak a towel and wipe the floor rinse and repeat. Would really
> appreciate
> > > recommendations on a good vacuum.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance!
> > > Dorothy
> > > Manakin-Sabot, Va.
Pamala Browne on sat 14 aug 99
At the school they come in and spray the floor with water once or twice a
week--it really helps keep the dust down. If and when I ever build my
'perfect' studio space I will have a drain in the concrete floor so I can do
the same! pamalab
----- Original Message -----
From: Des Howard
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 1999 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: Home Studio Safety
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dorothy
>
> "Cleanliness is next to Godliness, but in a pottery it's next to
> Impossible"
> I hate dust!
> & brooms,
> bought & used various vacuum cleaners over the years
> replaced motors as the dust/grit/abuse chewed them out.
>
> Presently painting entire pottery, walls, equipment, the lot
> this time there is to be *NO DUST* (by Imperial Edict),
> (or brooms, gonna cut 'em up into turning tool handles)
>
> Today we bought a wet & dry vacuum cleaner (Volta A$199)
> & a dust collection drum for woodworking (20L Triton A$36)
> got busy with the hacksaw, a hot glue gun & hose/wand off
> the last casualty, 10cm of water in drum then let 'er rip on anything
> on walls/flooring brick cracks, sawdust/metal filings/spider
> webs/sand/powdered clay
> Wouldn't suck up welding rod stubs, but did lift them out of the floor
> cracks
> &, (rpt) &, NO DUST flying around,
> the cleaner barrel only had a eggcup of water in it.
> Tomorrow I'll build a trolley for the units (lawnmower wheels),
> plus get the saw to work on the broom handles.
> Des
>
> Des & Jan Howard
> Lue Pottery
> LUE NSW 2850
> Australia
>
> > > Dorothy Weber wrote:
> > >
> > > > ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> > > > Can any one recommend a good vacuum for the studio. We tried a
> shop
> > vac,it
> > > > was good for nothing. We currently spray broom with enddust and
> sweep
> > and
> > > > soak a towel and wipe the floor rinse and repeat. Would really
> > appreciate
> > > > recommendations on a good vacuum.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance!
> > > > Dorothy
> > > > Manakin-Sabot, Va.
AKitchens on sun 15 aug 99
Pamala,
I am building my studio right now and wanted to do the same thing until
I was told the clay would eventually clog the drain and probably give my
septic tank arterial sclerosis. So I opted for two cement blocks all the
way around the building at the base of the walls (to prevent any water
damage) and a garage door opening to hose out the water. (they fine
tuned the concrete slab so there is a slight slant toward the door) Live
and learn. My next problem is the deep sink but I have a plastic live
well tank (formerly used on our fishing boat) rigged under the sink to
act as a mini septic tank. The clay water drops in to the tank to settle
and the water is funneled off the top level of the tank into the drain.
The tank can be removed (it's on wheels) and cleaned out as needed.
Nan Kitchens
Pamala Browne wrote:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> At the school they come in and spray the floor with water once or
> twice a
> week--it really helps keep the dust down. If and when I ever build my
> 'perfect' studio space I will have a drain in the concrete floor so I
> can do
> the same! pamalab
>
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