Tom Wirt on fri 23 jul 99
Question? does paperclay work at earthenware and mid fire temps? I'm
thinking that it might help my friends cracking sculpture problems.
Tom Wirt
Tom Buck on sun 25 jul 99
Tom W:
You mean Pclay from Rosette G? I am unsure but I thought she
offered both midfire and hifire.
As for making your own: you can choose any claybody you wish.
Blend it with 15-25 wt% cellulosic fibre (woodpulp, cotton linters, etc.).
When I do my own, I do it via the slop method (don't have a
mixer/pugmill). Mix a thick cream clay slip, then add an equal volume of
screened but still quite wet repulped egg-carton or equal. Then stir like
crazy for 30-50 minutes. Put it on plaster and let dry to hard slab. Keeps
that way forever. When need more paperclay, I just put a slab in water for
2-3 hours, wedge, and away we go.
Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).
mailing address: 373 East 43rd Street,
Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
On Fri, 23 Jul 1999, Tom Wirt wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Question? does paperclay work at earthenware and mid fire temps? I'm
> thinking that it might help my friends cracking sculpture problems.
>
> Tom Wirt
>
Morgan Britt on sun 25 jul 99
Depends on what kind of slip it is mixed with, but yes, normally.
Tom Wirt wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Question? does paperclay work at earthenware and mid fire temps? I'm
> thinking that it might help my friends cracking sculpture problems.
>
> Tom Wirt
--
Morgan Britt
morgan@unlimited.net
Dannon Rhudy on sun 25 jul 99
Yes, Tom, it works at any temperature above 451F, give or take. The paper
fiber is just there to give the clay green strength. The maturing temp of the
clay is of no importance, thus far in my experience.
Regards,
Dannon Rhudy
At 06:26 PM 7/23/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Question? does paperclay work at earthenware and mid fire temps? I'm
>thinking that it might help my friends cracking sculpture problems.
>
>Tom Wirt
>
Rosemary Attwell on sun 25 jul 99
At 06:26 PM 7/23/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Question? does paperclay work at earthenware and mid fire temps? I'm
>thinking that it might help my friends cracking sculpture problems.
>
>Tom Wirt
Why not ?
There is one good way to find out!!
The beauty of it is you can join when it's dry or repair when it's dry
Ro :)
Morgan Britt on tue 27 jul 99
Just an afterthought that I remembered after the Rosette Gault workshop.
While paperclay at the greenware stage is enormously strong, because of the
porosity bisqueware is extraordinarily fragile. It's my understanding that
once the clay is fired to vitrifying temperature it all equals out.
Marcia Selsor wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I think you should fire one or two cones hotter than the normal clay
> recipe requires because the paper makes it more porrous. The coolest
> things we did this summer in my workshop in Spain was to sawdust fire
> the
> raku paper clay after dipping it in Copper or iron sulphate solutions.
> Marcia in Montana
>
> Tom Wirt wrote:
> >
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > Question? does paperclay work at earthenware and mid fire temps? I'm
> > thinking that it might help my friends cracking sculpture problems.
> >
> > Tom Wirt
>
> --
> Marcia Selsor
> selsor@imt.net
> http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
> http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
> http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/selsor/welcome.html
--
Morgan Britt
morgan@unlimited.net
Marcia Selsor on fri 30 jul 99
Tim,
No salt. -just dip a solution of copper sulphate or iron sulphate in
water after the buisque. Then sawdust fire without saggars. I use a 55
gallon drum with three levels of four 1" holes in the side. (direction
of the four winds) These help control the buring and can be plugged up
or opened as needed.
Burnishing paperclay is tough. Just started firing four sculptures
mafter putting terra sig on paper clay terra cotta. Hoping for a little sheen.
Marcia
Tim Skeen wrote:
>
> Marcia
> Did you burnish your paper clay pots before the sawdust firing? I found it
> was very hard to burnish the paper clay.
> One more question, did you use salt to produce the colors you mentioned? I
> use salt with my saggar and pit fires and would like to fire with the copper
> and iron and omit the salt. A potter I met mentioned using Calgon instead
> of the salt. For me the outcome wasn't great but was wondering if you ever
> heard of this or tried it. I just don't like the smell and fumes using the
> salt, but love the colors! At least Calgon has a nice smell and I remember
> the slogan "Calgon take me away"...
> Would burning Calgon in the pit or saggar be as harmful as potters say salt
> is?
> Thank you for sharing your info and experience...
>
> Audrey
> mailto:t.askeen@worldnet.att.net
> http://t.askeen.home.att.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
> Of Marcia Selsor
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 2:53 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Re: paperclay firing temp....
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I think you should fire one or two cones hotter than the normal clay
> recipe requires because the paper makes it more porrous. The coolest
> things we did this summer in my workshop in Spain was to sawdust fire
> the
> raku paper clay after dipping it in Copper or iron sulphate solutions.
> Marcia in Montana
>
> Tom Wirt wrote:
> >
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > Question? does paperclay work at earthenware and mid fire temps? I'm
> > thinking that it might help my friends cracking sculpture problems.
> >
> > Tom Wirt
>
> --
> Marcia Selsor
> selsor@imt.net
> http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
> http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
> http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/selsor/welcome.html
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/selsor/welcome.html
Tim Skeen on sun 1 aug 99
I use high fire clay and just bisque the pot and then sawdust fire. To get
good carbon or colors the clay needs to be porous. So does this mean with
paperclay the pot would tend to be fragile during and after the pit fire? I
never used PC for this firing procedure and was thinking about trying it...
TIA
Audrey
mailto:t.askeen@worldnet.att.net
http://t.askeen.home.att.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
Of Morgan Britt
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 1999 5:53 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Re: paperclay firing temp....
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Just an afterthought that I remembered after the Rosette Gault workshop.
While paperclay at the greenware stage is enormously strong, because of the
porosity bisqueware is extraordinarily fragile. It's my understanding that
once the clay is fired to vitrifying temperature it all equals out.
Marcia Selsor wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I think you should fire one or two cones hotter than the normal clay
> recipe requires because the paper makes it more porrous. The coolest
> things we did this summer in my workshop in Spain was to sawdust fire
> the
> raku paper clay after dipping it in Copper or iron sulphate solutions.
> Marcia in Montana
>
> Tom Wirt wrote:
> >
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > Question? does paperclay work at earthenware and mid fire temps? I'm
> > thinking that it might help my friends cracking sculpture problems.
> >
> > Tom Wirt
>
> --
> Marcia Selsor
> selsor@imt.net
> http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
> http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
> http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/selsor/welcome.html
--
Morgan Britt
morgan@unlimited.net
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