Thonas C. Curran on sat 24 jul 99
I wrote a reply earlier to one of postings about this subject, but it
turned out that it was not to Clayart at large. Here I go again quickly,
since I've already deleted the other postings...
Alcohol is volatile, and it's not to be played with casually - either
internally or externally. Anyone who uses a liquid combustible for post
firing raku reduction must use very small amounts and begin with very
small test pieces in order to experience the amount of flame he or she
will get. I would suggest a soup can or coffee can with broken kiln
shelf lid as a post firing reduction chamber using alcohol or other
experimental liquid...and a test piece which fits inside. (NEVER FILL
THE CONTAINER WITH ALCOHOL OR OTHER LIQUID...THAT'S ASKING FOR TROUBLE,
EVEN IF THE CONTAINER IS SMALL.) Putting this little chamber close to
the kiln, place a thin porous clay slab on the bottom of the can. Just
before you start to unload the raku, add about a quarter to a half
teaspoon of the alcohol. (Too far ahead and alcohol will evaporate.)
That way the combustible will already be in the container and you won't
have to spray the hot pot from an atomizer. (That sounds scary
somehow.) Then you take the small glowing piece with tongs and drop it
in the container with alcohol. The alcohol--even a tiny amount - will
be ignited by the pottery and create flames around the pot if the pot is
hot enough. Covering the pot depends on the effect you want.
I have not investigated formally, but I do imagine that any rubbing
alcohol (or anything with toxic materials added so you won't drink it)
is not going to be particularly good for the ole' lungs. Small amounts
of the stuff, good ventilation outside and not leaning over the
combustion chamber are common sense. More on my experiments with non
toxic combustibles once I get my act together and have more time, but I
thought I'd better post a quick and cautionary note now.
Carolyn in muggy upstate NY w/ dehumidifier going full blast in basement
studio.
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