Maridel Crawford-Brown on fri 6 aug 99
Way back at the beginning of this year,
I was asking for cone 6 oxidation glossy black glazes.
I wanted something easier to mix and without anything
too toxic...the one I had used a number of ingredients
to mix a stain first and could be a bit more dusty
to play with than I like. It also ran quite a bit if
you were not careful in application.
This is the little bit I have learned from the several tests on all the black
glaze recipes everyone was kind enough to share with
me. Most of the recipes with copper just did not go
black for me any how....always greenish or brown.
Several of the glazes stayed more matt or not as shiny
as I wanted. Many seemed a bit thin even with two or
three dippings especially on laguna B. Could be my
empirical water additions.
Firing temperatures varied in the kilns from cone 5 to cone 6 with the big
cones just going down flat,
not completely collapsed. I did not try any mixing
with distilled water because of wanting to make big
batches eventually and not wanting to buy water.
K.I.S.S.,works best for me.
From my efforts I have concluded the following did what I wanted most often:
Ron Roy Cone 6 Black #1
================
F4 Feldspar......... 21.00 19.09%
WHITING............. 6.00 5.45%
TALC................ 3.00 2.73%
FRIT 3134........... 26.00 23.64%
EPK KAOLIN.......... 17.00 15.45%
SILICA.............. 27.00 24.55%
IRON OXIDE RED...... 9.00 8.18%
*cobalt carbonate.... 1.00 0.91%
Ron s is glossy and definitely black, especially on the inside of vessels,
although depending if it is a bit thin,
it can go somewhat greenish on the outside. It went
bluish -grey under a glossy white glaze I used which
was ok in one instance for owl feathers. (The object
was popular and sold but I would not make a lot with
that color.... a bit cold for my tastes.)
It worked ok over Peachy Keen which was on this list a while back but
disappeared a bit more into the glaze and appeared
browner, than the following.
This U of M shared by Peter Atwood, is one I really liked,
although on its own it is not as glossy as the one
above, but I have had a lot of fun with it,
despite the manganese. :-)
Custer spar 79
Gerstley Borate 11
Whiting 5
EPK __5
100
Add:
Cobalt Ox 2
Copper Carb 4
Manganese Diox 4
I used granular manganese in a couple of trials and got neat metallic flecks
and a softer black/grey color,
especially a lot of fun when used over Peachy Keen .
Over Peachy,
the U of M glaze can vary from a gunmetal grey shiny
glaze to a more matte glaze. Seems shinier on higher
fired concave surfaces and softer on lower fired
convex.
Neither of the glazes were so satisfactory under Peachy. Results were
variable. I did a few tests with white,
green and blue glossy and matte glazes but nothing
interesting...a lot too cold or dull. I was
principally interested in playing with black values,
anyway.
The U of M glaze seemed close to getting oil spots on a couple of occasions
but I have not figured out why or where to place in
kiln for best results. These black glazes were used
over both laguna B and a mid-brown clay with success,
only I think the brown clay trials were better...
glaze seemed to hold on better.
Anyway, I am signing off Clayart for awhile as I have other business to take
care of and am giving clay a rest for awhile.
Thanks to everyone who shared recipes and suggestions.
Happy Potting.
Maridel Crawford-Brown
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Hello Clayart List members;
Way back at the beginning of this year,
I was asking for cone 6 oxidation glossy black glazes.
I wanted something easier to mix and without anything
too toxic...the one I had used a number of ingredients
to mix a stain first and could be a bit more dusty
to play with than I like. It also ran quite a bit if
you were not careful in application.
This is the little bit I have learned from the several tests on all the black
glaze recipes everyone was kind enough to share with
me. Most of the recipes with copper just did not go
black for me any how....always greenish or brown.
Several of the glazes stayed more matt or not as shiny
as I wanted. Many seemed a bit thin even with two or
three dippings especially on laguna B. Could be my
empirical water additions.
Firing temperatures varied in the kilns from cone 5 to cone 6 with the big
cones just going down flat,
not completely collapsed. I did not try any mixing
with distilled water because of wanting to make big
batches eventually and not wanting to buy water.
K.I.S.S.,works best for me.
From my efforts I have concluded the following did what I wanted most often:
Ron Roy Cone 6 Black #1
================
F4 Feldspar......... 21.00 19.09%
WHITING............. 6.00 5.45%
TALC................ 3.00 2.73%
FRIT 3134........... 26.00 23.64%
EPK KAOLIN.......... 17.00 15.45%
SILICA.............. 27.00 24.55%
IRON OXIDE RED...... 9.00 8.18%
*cobalt carbonate.... 1.00 0.91%
Ron s is glossy and definitely black, especially on the inside of vessels,
although depending if it is a bit thin,
it can go somewhat greenish on the outside. It went
bluish -grey under a glossy white glaze I used which
was ok in one instance for owl feathers. (The object
was popular and sold but I would not make a lot with
that color.... a bit cold for my tastes.)
It worked ok over Peachy Keen which was on this list a while back but
disappeared a bit more into the glaze and appeared
browner, than the following.
This U of M shared by Peter Atwood, is one I really liked,
although on its own it is not as glossy as the one
above, but I have had a lot of fun with it,
despite the manganese. :-)
Custer spar 79
Gerstley Borate 11
Whiting 5
EPK __5
100
Add:
Cobalt Ox 2
Copper Carb 4
Manganese Diox 4
I used granular manganese in a couple of trials and got neat metallic flecks
and a softer black/grey color,
especially a lot of fun when used over Peachy Keen .
Over Peachy,
the U of M glaze can vary from a gunmetal grey shiny
glaze to a more matte glaze. Seems shinier on higher
fired concave surfaces and softer on lower fired
convex.
Neither of the glazes were so satisfactory under Peachy. Results were
variable. I did a few tests with white,
green and blue glossy and matte glazes but nothing
interesting...a lot too cold or dull. I was
principally interested in playing with black values,
anyway.
The U of M glaze seemed close to getting oil spots on a couple of occasions
but I have not figured out why or where to place in
kiln for best results. These black glazes were used
over both laguna B and a mid-brown clay with success,
only I think the brown clay trials were better...
glaze seemed to hold on better.
Anyway, I am signing off Clayart for awhile as I have other business to take
care of and am giving clay a rest for awhile.
Thanks to everyone who shared recipes and suggestions.
Happy Potting.
Maridel Crawford-Brown
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Hello Clayart List members;
Way back at the beginning of this year,
I was asking for cone 6 oxidation glossy black glazes.
I wanted something easier to mix and without anything
too toxic...the one I had used a number of ingredients
to mix a stain first and could be a bit more dusty
to play with than I like. It also ran quite a bit if
you were not careful in application.
This is the little bit I have learned from the several tests on all the black
glaze recipes everyone was kind enough to share with
me. Most of the recipes with copper just did not go
black for me any how....always greenish or brown.
Several of the glazes stayed more matt or not as shiny
as I wanted. Many seemed a bit thin even with two or
three dippings especially on laguna B. Could be my
empirical water additions.
Firing temperatures varied in the kilns from cone 5 to cone 6 with the big
cones just going down flat,
not completely collapsed. I did not try any mixing
with distilled water because of wanting to make big
batches eventually and not wanting to buy water.
K.I.S.S.,works best for me.
From my efforts I have concluded the following did what I wanted most often:
Ron Roy Cone 6 Black #1
================
F4 Feldspar......... 21.00 19.09%
WHITING............. 6.00 5.45%
TALC................ 3.00 2.73%
FRIT 3134........... 26.00 23.64%
EPK KAOLIN.......... 17.00 15.45%
SILICA.............. 27.00 24.55%
IRON OXIDE RED...... 9.00 8.18%
*cobalt carbonate.... 1.00 0.91%
Ron s is glossy and definitely black, especially on the inside of vessels,
although depending if it is a bit thin,
it can go somewhat greenish on the outside. It went
bluish -grey under a glossy white glaze I used which
was ok in one instance for owl feathers. (The object
was popular and sold but I would not make a lot with
that color.... a bit cold for my tastes.)
It worked ok over Peachy Keen which was on this list a while back but
disappeared a bit more into the glaze and appeared
browner, than the following.
This U of M shared by Peter Atwood, is one I really liked,
although on its own it is not as glossy as the one
above, but I have had a lot of fun with it,
despite the manganese. :-)
Custer spar 79
Gerstley Borate 11
Whiting 5
EPK __5
100
Add:
Cobalt Ox 2
Copper Carb 4
Manganese Diox 4
I used granular manganese in a couple of trials and got neat metallic flecks
and a softer black/grey color,
especially a lot of fun when used over Peachy Keen .
Over Peachy,
the U of M glaze can vary from a gunmetal grey shiny
glaze to a more matte glaze. Seems shinier on higher
fired concave surfaces and softer on lower fired
convex.
Neither of the glazes were so satisfactory under Peachy. Results were
variable. I did a few tests with white,
green and blue glossy and matte glazes but nothing
interesting...a lot too cold or dull. I was
principally interested in playing with black values,
anyway.
The U of M glaze seemed close to getting oil spots on a couple of occasions
but I have not figured out why or where to place in
kiln for best results. These black glazes were used
over both laguna B and a mid-brown clay with success,
only I think the brown clay trials were better...
glaze seemed to hold on better.
Anyway, I am signing off Clayart for awhile as I have other business to take
care of and am giving clay a rest for awhile.
Thanks to everyone who shared recipes and suggestions.
Happy Potting.
Maridel Crawford-Brown
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Hello Clayart List members;
Way back at the beginning of this year,
I was asking for cone 6 oxidation glossy black glazes.
I wanted something easier to mix and without anything
too toxic...the one I had used a number of ingredients
to mix a stain first and could be a bit more dusty
to play with than I like. It also ran quite a bit if
you were not careful in application.
This is the little bit I have learned from the several tests on all the black
glaze recipes everyone was kind enough to share with
me. Most of the recipes with copper just did not go
black for me any how....always greenish or brown.
Several of the glazes stayed more matt or not as shiny
as I wanted. Many seemed a bit thin even with two or
three dippings especially on laguna B. Could be my
empirical water additions.
Firing temperatures varied in the kilns from cone 5 to cone 6 with the big
cones just going down flat,
not completely collapsed. I did not try any mixing
with distilled water because of wanting to make big
batches eventually and not wanting to buy water.
K.I.S.S.,works best for me.
From my efforts I have concluded the following did what I wanted most often:
Ron Roy Cone 6 Black #1
================
F4 Feldspar......... 21.00 19.09%
WHITING............. 6.00 5.45%
TALC................ 3.00 2.73%
FRIT 3134........... 26.00 23.64%
EPK KAOLIN.......... 17.00 15.45%
SILICA.............. 27.00 24.55%
IRON OXIDE RED...... 9.00 8.18%
*cobalt carbonate.... 1.00 0.91%
Ron s is glossy and definitely black, especially on the inside of vessels,
although depending if it is a bit thin,
it can go somewhat greenish on the outside. It went
bluish -grey under a glossy white glaze I used which
was ok in one instance for owl feathers. (The object
was popular and sold but I would not make a lot with
that color.... a bit cold for my tastes.)
It worked ok over Peachy Keen which was on this list a while back but
disappeared a bit more into the glaze and appeared
browner, than the following.
This U of M shared by Peter Atwood, is one I really liked,
although on its own it is not as glossy as the one
above, but I have had a lot of fun with it,
despite the manganese. :-)
Custer spar 79
Gerstley Borate 11
Whiting 5
EPK __5
100
Add:
Cobalt Ox 2
Copper Carb 4
Manganese Diox 4
I used granular manganese in a couple of trials and got neat metallic flecks
and a softer black/grey color,
especially a lot of fun when used over Peachy Keen .
Over Peachy,
the U of M glaze can vary from a gunmetal grey shiny
glaze to a more matte glaze. Seems shinier on higher
fired concave surfaces and softer on lower fired
convex.
Neither of the glazes were so satisfactory under Peachy. Results were
variable. I did a few tests with white,
green and blue glossy and matte glazes but nothing
interesting...a lot too cold or dull. I was
principally interested in playing with black values,
anyway.
The U of M glaze seemed close to getting oil spots on a couple of occasions
but I have not figured out why or where to place in
kiln for best results. These black glazes were used
over both laguna B and a mid-brown clay with success,
only I think the brown clay trials were better...
glaze seemed to hold on better.
Anyway, I am signing off Clayart for awhile as I have other business to take
care of and am giving clay a rest for awhile.
Thanks to everyone who shared recipes and suggestions.
Happy Potting.
Maridel Crawford-Brown
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Hello Clayart List members;
Way back at the beginning of this year, I was asking for cone 6
oxidation glossy black glazes. I wanted something easier to mix and
without anything too toxic...the one I had used a number of ingredients
to mix a stain first and could be a bit more dusty to play with than I
like. It also ran quite a bit if you were not careful in application.
This is the little bit I have learned from the several tests on all the
black glaze recipes everyone was kind enough to share with me. Most of
the recipes with copper just did not go black for me any how....always
greenish or brown. Several of the glazes stayed more matt or not as
shiny as I wanted. Many seemed a bit thin even with two or three
dippings especially on laguna B. Could be my empirical water additions.
Firing temperatures varied in the kilns from cone 5 to cone 6 with the
big cones just going down flat, not completely collapsed. I did not try
any mixing with distilled water because of wanting to make big batches
eventually and not wanting to buy water. K.I.S.S.,works best for me.
>From my efforts I have concluded the following did what I wanted most
often:
Ron Roy Cone 6 Black #1
================
F4 Feldspar......... 21.00 19.09%
WHITING............. 6.00 5.45%
TALC................ 3.00 2.73%
FRIT 3134........... 26.00 23.64%
EPK KAOLIN.......... 17.00 15.45%
SILICA.............. 27.00 24.55%
IRON OXIDE RED...... 9.00 8.18%
*cobalt carbonate.... 1.00 0.91%
Ron s is glossy and definitely black, especially on the inside of
vessels, although depending if it is a bit thin, it can go somewhat
greenish on the outside. It went bluish -grey under a glossy white glaze
I used which was ok in one instance for owl feathers. (The object was
popular and sold but I would not make a lot with that color.... a bit
cold for my tastes.)
It worked ok over Peachy Keen which was on this list a while back but
disappeared a bit more into the glaze and appeared browner, than the
following.
This U of M shared by Peter Atwood, is one I really liked, although on
its own it is not as glossy as the one above, but I have had a lot of
fun with it, despite the manganese. :-)
Custer spar 79
Gerstley Borate 11
Whiting 5
EPK __5
100
Add:
Cobalt Ox 2
Copper Carb 4
Manganese Diox 4
I used granular manganese in a couple of trials and got neat metallic
flecks and a softer black/grey color, especially a lot of fun when used
over Peachy Keen . Over Peachy, the U of M glaze can vary from a
gunmetal grey shiny glaze to a more matte glaze. Seems shinier on higher
fired concave surfaces and softer on lower fired convex.
Neither of the glazes were so satisfactory under Peachy. Results were
variable. I did a few tests with white, green and blue glossy and matte
glazes but nothing interesting...a lot too cold or dull. I was
principally interested in playing with black values, anyway.
The U of M glaze seemed close to getting oil spots on a couple of
occasions but I have not figured out why or where to place in kiln for
best results. These black glazes were used over both laguna B and a
mid-brown clay with success, only I think the brown clay trials were
better... glaze seemed to hold on better.
Anyway, I am signing off Clayart for awhile as I have other business to
take care of and am giving clay a rest for awhile.
Thanks to everyone who shared recipes and suggestions.
Happy Potting.
Maridel Crawford-Brown
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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