Carolyn Sawyer on mon 2 aug 99
Dear Clayarters,
Can anyone tell me why I shouldn't load reliably glazed wares on a kiln
washed floor? I've been told that I shouldn't because of the lack of heat
circulation. I don't see why it should be a problem. I always load thinner
pieces in the bottom as it never gets quite as hot as the other levels. It's
an old L&L electric. At home I always load up the floor of my Skutt1027km
with absolutely no problems. The local community studio just won't hear of
it.
Also, do you put the sitter cone in with the number facing the wall or the
wares?
And...is the following Floating Red recipe correct?
Gert. Bor. 54.88
Talc 14.63
Flint 30.49
RIO 21.95
Does anyone know what this fires to?
Thank you very much for your help.....again.
Carolyn
Campobello SC
Arnold Howard on wed 4 aug 99
Hi Carolyn,
For many years Paragon has recommended loading ware directly onto the
kiln bottom. Since the massive firebrick bottom absorbs heat, you
should place small pieces on the bottom.
The best way to determine how to load your kiln for even heating is to
place witness cones on every shelf. You will quickly know which section
fires hotter and therefore should be loaded heavier. (The heavier a
section of firing chamber is loaded with ware, the cooler it will fire.
To balance the heat, load cool sections lighter, hot sections heavier.)
It makes no difference whether the cone number faces the wall or the
ware. The main thing is to use the correct cone number, which is
sometimes difficult to read on the cone. You can even load the cone
upside down, with the flat edge on top and the sharp edge toward the
bottom. (Though it is preferable to load with the flat edge on the
bottom.)
Good luck with your firing.
Arnold Howard
Paragon
> Dear Clayarters,
> Can anyone tell me why I shouldn't load reliably
> glazed wares on a kiln
> washed floor? I've been told that I shouldn't
> because of the lack of heat
> circulation. I don't see why it should be a
> problem. I always load thinner
> pieces in the bottom as it never gets quite as hot
> as the other levels. It's
> an old L&L electric. At home I always load up the
> floor of my Skutt1027km
> with absolutely no problems. The local community
> studio just won't hear of
> it.
>
> Also, do you put the sitter cone in with the number
> facing the wall or the
> wares?
>
> And...is the following Floating Red recipe correct?
> Gert. Bor. 54.88
> Talc 14.63
> Flint 30.49
> RIO 21.95
>
> Does anyone know what this fires to?
>
> Thank you very much for your help.....again.
> Carolyn
> Campobello SC
>
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Jeremy/Bonnie Hellman on wed 4 aug 99
Carolyn,
The glaze you've called Floating Red is one I know as Oxblood Red, which
came to me from From Eric Haggin on Clayart as a cone 6 oxidation glaze.
Ron Roy commented on this glaze:
"I guess some of you are thinking I am going to warn about the low expansion
of this one - not so - all that Red Iron raises the expansion to
a safe level - in fact - because the B2O3 is nearly 15% (above the amount
effective for lowering expansion) I suspect this glaze will craze on some
bodies.
"Beware - there is hardly any Alumina (Al2O3) in this glaze - Alumina is the
stuff that keeps glazes from sliding off pots. Because if the very low
(almost non-existent) Al2O3, the low SiO2 and the oversupply of B2O3 - this
is certainly not a durable glaze and will very likely scratch easily.
"I am having a hard time thinking of this as a glaze - let me just say a
wildly unbalanced glaze at cone 6 for sure. If I add 14.5 parts of EPK it
is barely durable according to both sets of limits I use for cone 04
glazes.
"On top of all that - all that red iron looks like an oversupply to me and I
suspect it is lying around on the surface waiting for something to affect
it. This would be an interesting "glaze" to do an acid and alkali tests on."
It's a cone 6 oxidation glaze that's one of the reddest reds I've seen using
RIO and no Cerdec or other stains. My experience is that you need to apply
it VERY THICK! Although if it is too thick it will run. I happen to like
the glaze quite a lot. It breaks nicely on edges, but there is a fine line
between thick enough and too thick. I always fire pieces glazed in this
glaze on top of a disk, and I would *never* fire any pieces with this glaze
on the floor of my kiln!
Bonnie
Bonnie Hellman in Pittsburgh, PA
----------
>From: Carolyn Sawyer
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: floor loading/sitter/recipe questions
>Date: Mon, Aug 2, 1999, 9:33 AM
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Clayarters,
> Can anyone tell me why I shouldn't load reliably glazed wares on a kiln
> washed floor? I've been told that I shouldn't because of the lack of heat
> circulation. I don't see why it should be a problem. I always load thinner
> pieces in the bottom as it never gets quite as hot as the other levels. It's
> an old L&L electric. At home I always load up the floor of my Skutt1027km
> with absolutely no problems. The local community studio just won't hear of
> it.
>
> Also, do you put the sitter cone in with the number facing the wall or the
> wares?
>
> And...is the following Floating Red recipe correct?
> Gert. Bor. 54.88
> Talc 14.63
> Flint 30.49
> RIO 21.95
>
> Does anyone know what this fires to?
>
> Thank you very much for your help.....again.
> Carolyn
> Campobello SC
wschran@erols.com on wed 4 aug 99
------------------
=3C6ebb7c20.24d3c10-=40aol.com=3E wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/clayart/?start=3D49215
=3E ----------------------------Original message-------------------------
---
=3E Dear Clayarters,
=3E Can anyone tell me why I shouldn't load reliably glazed wares on a
kiln
=3E washed floor? I've been told that I shouldn't because of the lack of
heat
=3E circulation. I don't see why it should be a problem. I always load
thinner
=3E pieces in the bottom as it never gets quite as hot as the other
levels. It's
=3E an old L=26L electric. At home I always load up the floor of my
Skutt1027km
=3E with absolutely no problems. The local community studio just won't
hear of
=3E it.
=3E
=3E Also, do you put the sitter cone in with the number facing the wall
or the
=3E wares?
=3E
=3E And...is the following Floating Red recipe correct?
=3E Gert. Bor. 54.88
=3E Talc 14.63
=3E Flint 30.49
=3E RIO 21.95
=3E
=3E Does anyone know what this fires to?
=3E
=3E Thank you very much for your help.....again.
=3E Carolyn
=3E Campobello SC
=3E
=3ECarolyn - Though it takes away space from stacking, I would recommend
using a shelf at the bottom of the kiln on one inch posts. More even
heat and you never know when those tried and true glazes decide to =93act
up=94. I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference which way the
cone number faces, but Orton recommends a certain way, that I can't
remember right now. Your glaze was in a issue, some time back, of
Ceramics Monthly. It's a =5E6 glaze, that I always fired at =5E5 at 6
o'clock and got better results. Be cautious of this glaze, will turn
brown when in contact with some acidtic liquids.
Bill
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