David Hetherington on sat 14 aug 99
Hi To The List:
I just completed two semesters of ceramics at a local community college and
have signed up for an additional studio course that begins in a week or so.
I was allowed to only do handbuilding and have not worked on the wheel yet.
I just got intreged (sp?) with handbuilding and wanted to learn more about
it before I went to the wheel.
Anyhow, the school only does high firing to cone ten. I felt that it was
limiting to just glaze pieces and wanted to learn different techniques that
would allow me to paint or other wise apply designs or pictures on my
sculptures and pots without colors and glazes running together. One
technique I have just come across is to bisque fire and then apply a light
colored mat glaze. After the mat glaze has air dried a pattern or picture
could be applied with wax resist. A light coating of red iron oxide could
then be brushed over both the wax and the dried mat glaze. The whole piece
would then be high fired to cone 10. Has anyone tried this technique?
My instructor advises that there are different colors available that can be
used to paint pictures on high fire ceramics but they might be cost prohibitive.
Our instructor also has all the students use cone 10, Soldate 60 clay. I
notice that when this is fired that it has a very gritty texture. I think
that we would be allowed to use another type of clay that wasn't as gritty
and fire to a different color just as long as it was cone ten. A different
clay may help with the application of designs or puctures.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave Hetherington
Phoenix, Arizona USA
minerals@netzone.com
Pamala Browne on fri 20 aug 99
Hello David-- Soldate 60 is a great clay--Very workable and very forgiving
for beginners and everyone else also! One thing I do with the bottoms of my
pots is burnish them so that it is smooth and won't scratch surfaces. The
grog gets in the way only mimimally when I carve . I have also burnished
then bisqued then glazed and fired to^10 with good results. ( it wasn't
intentional, and I was told that the glaze wouldn't stick to the pot-- but
it did. test first! ) If you are only handbuilding try B-mix --super
smooth,like butter, beautiful stuff. When you start to throw ,unless you are
very brave or very sure of yourself ,stick with the soldate for awhile. You
can move up to the B-mix ( it loses it's body easily and is difficult to
learn on ). Also try B-mix with sand-- it has a little more holding power
.Good luck!! pamalab
----- Original Message -----
From: David Hetherington
To:
Sent: Saturday, August 14, 1999 7:16 PM
Subject: Decorating/Painting High Fire Ceramics
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi To The List:
>
> I just completed two semesters of ceramics at a local community college
and
> have signed up for an additional studio course that begins in a week or
so.
> I was allowed to only do handbuilding and have not worked on the wheel
yet.
> I just got intreged (sp?) with handbuilding and wanted to learn more about
> it before I went to the wheel.
>
> Anyhow, the school only does high firing to cone ten. I felt that it was
> limiting to just glaze pieces and wanted to learn different techniques
that
> would allow me to paint or other wise apply designs or pictures on my
> sculptures and pots without colors and glazes running together. One
> technique I have just come across is to bisque fire and then apply a light
> colored mat glaze. After the mat glaze has air dried a pattern or picture
> could be applied with wax resist. A light coating of red iron oxide could
> then be brushed over both the wax and the dried mat glaze. The whole piece
> would then be high fired to cone 10. Has anyone tried this technique?
>
> My instructor advises that there are different colors available that can
be
> used to paint pictures on high fire ceramics but they might be cost
prohibitive.
>
> Our instructor also has all the students use cone 10, Soldate 60 clay. I
> notice that when this is fired that it has a very gritty texture. I think
> that we would be allowed to use another type of clay that wasn't as gritty
> and fire to a different color just as long as it was cone ten. A different
> clay may help with the application of designs or puctures.
>
> Any suggestions will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave Hetherington
> Phoenix, Arizona USA
> minerals@netzone.com
The Buchanans on tue 24 aug 99
David, I have used the technique you described. Many nice effects are
possible using washes of oxides over glazes. The commercial colors you asked
about are transparent underglazes, trade named easy-stroke, one-stroke etc.
probably available locally at a ceramic hobby shop. Diluted they can be
used as a wash. mixed with liquid laundry starch, you can paint onto the
glaze to get a water color effect.Try dry brush techniques or india ink like
effects with the black underglaze. The glazes come in one or two ounce
bottles and are not as expensive as oils or acrylics. At cone 10 many of
the yellow to red colors disappear but blues, greens, browns and blacks will
stay. The real advantage of the commercial glazes is the tinting added to
them. You can see the color (?) you are going to get. Oxide washes would
work as well but you can only guess (until you've had a lot of experence)
what the color strength will be.
Judi Buchanan, in hot, hot HOT Misissippi
-----Original Message-----
From: David Hetherington
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Saturday, August 14, 1999 7:16 PM
Subject: Decorating/Painting High Fire Ceramics
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hi To The List:
I just completed two semesters of ceramics at a local community college and
have signed up for an additional studio course that begins in a week or so.
I was allowed to only do handbuilding and have not worked on the wheel yet.
I just got intreged (sp?) with handbuilding and wanted to learn more about
it before I went to the wheel.
Anyhow, the school only does high firing to cone ten. I felt that it was
limiting to just glaze pieces and wanted to learn different techniques that
would allow me to paint or other wise apply designs or pictures on my
sculptures and pots without colors and glazes running together. One
technique I have just come across is to bisque fire and then apply a light
colored mat glaze. After the mat glaze has air dried a pattern or picture
could be applied with wax resist. A light coating of red iron oxide could
then be brushed over both the wax and the dried mat glaze. The whole piece
would then be high fired to cone 10. Has anyone tried this technique?
My instructor advises that there are different colors available that can be
used to paint pictures on high fire ceramics but they might be cost
prohibitive.
Our instructor also has all the students use cone 10, Soldate 60 clay. I
notice that when this is fired that it has a very gritty texture. I think
that we would be allowed to use another type of clay that wasn't as gritty
and fire to a different color just as long as it was cone ten. A different
clay may help with the application of designs or puctures.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave Hetherington
Phoenix, Arizona USA
minerals@netzone.com
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