Mark K Issenberg on fri 27 aug 99
In my move to Lookout Mtn.,I had packed a 25 foot truck and a enclosed
small trailer. It was too much and i put a bike on top of the kiln.
Anyway the handlebar put a hole through the lid. In all this group
someone must have a great way to fix this hole. I was thinking of ITC.
I am still painting the pot shop and apt, and havent decided what to do
about the floor. I would really like to make tile and tile it.
Mark in Rising Fawn
___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
wschran@erols.com on sun 29 aug 99
Mark - If it's a fairly clean hole (not alot of cracks) I would suggest
using a rasp to make the hole cone shaped (bigger around top, sloping
down to a smaller opening inside). Then cut and shape a insulating fire
brick to fit down into the hole (don't push too hard). Use some kiln
cement to help it stay in place, although if you're careful in shaping
it should wedge itself in there. A thin coat of ITC on the inside of
the lid would probably help with any brick dust falling.
Bill
John Rodgers on sun 29 aug 99
Pluge it with refractory fiber to maintain light weight, then seal it with
ITC. It works good. I rebuilt a brick plug for Kiln peephole with ITC. Brick
broke into about eight pieces. Gluesd pieces together with ITC and the brick
has helt up amazingly well.
Luck,
John Rodgers
In New Mexico
Mark K Issenberg wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> In my move to Lookout Mtn.,I had packed a 25 foot truck and a enclosed
> small trailer. It was too much and i put a bike on top of the kiln.
> Anyway the handlebar put a hole through the lid. In all this group
> someone must have a great way to fix this hole. I was thinking of ITC.
>
> I am still painting the pot shop and apt, and havent decided what to do
> about the floor. I would really like to make tile and tile it.
>
> Mark in Rising Fawn
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
Arnold Howard on sun 29 aug 99
Usually, a hole in the lid requires that you replace the lid. Does
anyone else have suggestions?
Arnold Howard
Mesquite, TX
--- Mark K Issenberg wrote:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> In my move to Lookout Mtn.,I had packed a 25 foot
> truck and a enclosed
> small trailer. It was too much and i put a bike on
> top of the kiln.
> Anyway the handlebar put a hole through the lid. In
> all this group
> someone must have a great way to fix this hole. I
> was thinking of ITC.
>
> I am still painting the pot shop and apt, and havent
> decided what to do
> about the floor. I would really like to make tile
> and tile it.
>
> Mark in Rising Fawn
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access
> for a month!
> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
Vince Pitelka on mon 30 aug 99
>Usually, a hole in the lid requires that you replace the lid. Does
>anyone else have suggestions?
This would only be true if the lid were badly cracked when the hole was
formed, and even then, it can be repaired. If there are no bad cracks, then
a piece of softbrick could be shaped to fit the hole, and cemented in place
with high-duty kiln cement like APGreen Greenpatch 421. APGreen sold out to
Harbison Walker, but last time I checked they were still selling APGreen
products.
If the lid is cracked, then lay it on a sheet of plastic on a flat surface,
loosen the clamps, and remove the outer metal band. Carefully pull apart
the sectionsalong the cracks. Decide on the best sequence for re-assembly,
and number the joints accordingly on the upper surface with a felt marker.
Wet the sections thoroughly with water. Apply kiln cement (same as above)
to the first joint, press firmly together, proceed to the next joint, etc.
Complete the entire reassembly as quickly as possible, and immediately
replace the outer band and tighten the clamps. Leave the lid flat on the
floor for at least 24 hours, Then place on the kiln and leave the bottom
element on low for 24 hours, then fire in a normal fashion.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Mike Gordon on thu 30 mar 06
Hi,
I believe that we had a discussion about this problem several months
ago, that being the expansion of electric kiln lids during firing. The
archives should have the info. lots of other good info there as well.
Mike Gordon
Rand O'Brien on sat 23 apr 11
Jon,
Though I'm not a professional potter by trade (too much time being a
psychotherapist and saving the world :-) ) I bought an old kiln
sans lid. I had a small local machine/ductwork shop here in local NH
make a nice 2" band with spot welded handles and "clamp" that allowed
for two stainless bolts to tighten as needed. Then mortared together
the bricks after cutting for the circle, as they were drying I put
the band around and clamped it tight. After the first couple firings
tightened again and it been copacetic. Just a little design work
and the machine shop dude enjoyed creating something different.
Peace,
Rand O'Brien
You never know Rand O'Brien, LICSW
what opportunity 86 Locust St.
is going to travel to you Dover, NH 03820
or through you. Ph. 603-743-6945
FAX 603-743-6942
Mary Oliver
| |
|
