Deborah Bouchette on wed 1 sep 99
------------------
If anyone out there has built the Olsen fastfire wood kiln and would share
information and maybe answer my questions, I'd appreciate it. I will be
building it using a double wall of soft brick. BUT I've never built any =
kiln
before, and I'm not a steelworker, although I've designed/engineered two =
houses
that I've had built. I have lots of questions, starting with...
Where, in general, do I go to get the channel steel for the frame? (I was
hoping Olsen
had a kit, but alas...)
How do I specify what I need for steel?
Is it all u-shaped channel (except for l-shaped corner braces)?
Do I interlock the double rows of brick in the wall, or do I just lay 2 =
walls
up
side-by-side?
If I double the walls, then is it common sense to double the door as well?
How do I handle the junction between the walls and the flue?
How do I double-up the roof? Just row over row?
How much wear and tear does it save by putting a shed roof over it?
Should I consider predominant wind direction in siting the kiln?
How big should cement footings be to hold up that mass? (I suppose it =
doesn't
weigh
more than a 2-story frame house w/cement tile roof...)
Does anyone put steel mesh over the chimney top, or does that cut draft?
thanks...
---------------------
now 15 years in Oregon
Deborah Bouchette
principal=40aleatoric-art.com
http://www.aleatoric-art.com
David Hendley on thu 2 sep 99
Deborah, most of your questions are just general
kiln-building questions, not specific to the fast-fire.
Buy or borrow some kiln building books before you start.
The 3 best books are Olsen's, Nils Lou's, and Daniel
Rhodes'. Look over all 3 if you can.
To answer your specific questions:
Where, in general, do I go to get the channel steel for the frame?
It's all angle iron. 2" angle iron is good - that means each
side is 2" wide. Get it at the junk yard, a welding shop,
or a machine shop. Angle iron is very common. You don't
need to specify any load carrying capacity or anything - just
ask for 2" angle iron.
Do I interlock the double rows of brick in the wall,
Yes, usually every 4 rows or so.
If I double the walls, then is it common sense to double the door as
well?
Yes.
How do I handle the junction between the walls and the flue?
You need to bridge over the opening to the flue.
This can be done with a cobble-arch, or you can
buy some special longer bricks to help bridge the
opening.
How do I double-up the roof? Just row over row?
Most people build the roof with arch bricks, which will give you
a 4 1/2" thick roof, and then add layer or two of ceramic
fiber (Kaowool) over the arch to add more insulation.
How much wear and tear does it save by putting a shed roof over it?
A shed roof is an absolute necessity for a kiln built
with insulating bricks. You have invested too much in the
bricks to cheap-out by not building a good shed.
Should I consider predominant wind direction in siting the kiln?
Yes. It will create smoke. You don't want it blowing
in your door or over to your close-by neighbors.
How big should cement footings be to hold up that mass?
It's not much weight, compared to a building.
In Texas, you don't even need a footing, just a slab.
in colder climes, I think you would want to go with
footings.
Does anyone put steel mesh over the chimney top, or does that cut draft?
Steel mesh would not last through the first firing.
It's HOT up there. I've never had a problem with
hot flying embers from the chimney.
If you've built houses, you can certainly build a kiln.
If you can't weld, just get someone to do the welding
for you. No big deal. Won't cost much.
--
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
hendley@tyler.net
http://www.farmpots.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: Deborah Bouchette
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 1:03 PM
Subject: Olsen's Fastfire Wood
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
------------------
If anyone out there has built the Olsen fastfire wood kiln and would share
information and maybe answer my questions, I'd appreciate it. I will be
building it using a double wall of soft brick. BUT I've never built any
kiln
before, and I'm not a steelworker, although I've designed/engineered two
houses
that I've had built. I have lots of questions, starting with...
Where, in general, do I go to get the channel steel for the frame?
(I was
hoping Olsen
had a kit, but alas...)
How do I specify what I need for steel?
Is it all u-shaped channel (except for l-shaped corner
braces)?
Do I interlock the double rows of brick in the wall, or do I just
lay 2 walls
up
side-by-side?
If I double the walls, then is it common sense to double the door as
well?
How do I handle the junction between the walls and the flue?
How do I double-up the roof? Just row over row?
How much wear and tear does it save by putting a shed roof over it?
Should I consider predominant wind direction in siting the kiln?
How big should cement footings be to hold up that mass? (I suppose
it doesn't
weigh
more than a 2-story frame house w/cement tile roof...)
Does anyone put steel mesh over the chimney top, or does that cut
draft?
thanks...
---------------------
now 15 years in Oregon
Deborah Bouchette
principal@aleatoric-art.com
http://www.aleatoric-art.com
Richard Gralnik on fri 3 sep 99
David,
At 12:08 PM 9/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
> Where, in general, do I go to get the channel steel for the frame?
>
>It's all angle iron. 2" angle iron is good - that means each
>side is 2" wide. Get it at the junk yard, a welding shop,
>or a machine shop. Angle iron is very common. You don't
>need to specify any load carrying capacity or anything - just
>ask for 2" angle iron.
>
There is one catch here - the thickness of the metal. Go with at least 3/16".
> Do I interlock the double rows of brick in the wall,
>
>
>Yes, usually every 4 rows or so.
>
Olsen's book has very helpful drawings of how to lay "soldier" and "header"
courses and how to tie the layers together.
> If I double the walls, then is it common sense to double the door as
>well?
>
>Yes.
>
>
> How do I handle the junction between the walls and the flue?
>
>You need to bridge over the opening to the flue.
>This can be done with a cobble-arch, or you can
>buy some special longer bricks to help bridge the
>opening.
The bricking drawings in Olsen's book show a couple ways to do this.
I would use Nils Lou's double venture flue though. The drawings in
his book show how to build this. From experience, add one thing -
mortar together the bricks that directly support the damper. In my
kiln, sliding the damper tipped the front-most brick just enough to
wedge the damper. I added some brick in front of that front-most
brick to hold it in place.
Alex Wilson on fri 3 sep 99
In a message dated 9/1/99 1:05:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
principal@aleatoric-art.com writes:
<< 1. Is it all u-shaped channel (except for l-shaped corner braces)?
2. Do I interlock the double rows of brick in the wall, or do I just
lay 2 walls
up
side-by-side?
3. If I double the walls, then is it common sense to double the door
as well?
4. How do I handle the junction between the walls and the flue?
5. How do I double-up the roof? Just row over row?
6. How much wear and tear does it save by putting a shed roof over
it? >>
Last one first - you'll save a lot of wear and tear on yourself, given you're
in Oregon, and keep the rain off - save a bit of firing time burning off all
the water.
1. You should be able to find angle iron at your friendly local steel factor,
no need to weld - bolt it together. the factor might weld you a frame, "for a
nominal fee, missus". But then you'll have it to cart home - "Bugger, won't
fit in the Civic!"
2. Follow the instructions in the 'Kiln Book'. You can get away with not
tying the walls, if going for the small version. The structure won't last as
long, but well... Some sheets of 'Masonite' would do instead of a second skin
of brick and makes firing in the Winter a totally toasty experience ( a
bottle of Whisky helps too ).
3. If you like. Makes it easier to seal the wicket.
4. The chimney is essentially separate from the chamber, with its own
foundation.
5. You don't need to use arch brick, but be sure to alternate the joints.
Stronger.
6. You _could_ shroud the whole thing in nice housebrick and make an artistic
chimney to boot.
I hope you have fun and don't have to be out there mortaring when it's nippy
out.
Alex
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