Deborah Bouchette on tue 7 sep 99
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Thank you, David=3B I have both Olsen's and Lou's books, and found some of =
these
answers, but not all (angle iron instead of channel, Kaowool, no steel =
grate,
those are all great answers). Nils' book is rather rambling and a bit of an
advertisement (plus focuses on gas)=3B Olsen's is very historical (after =
all, why
would he disclose how to completely build a kiln when he sells kits?). =
Rhodes'
is out-of-print, and although I've found it on bookfinder.com, I've not yet
ordered it.
I also have Leach's book with its rules-of-thumb from and engineer and a
Japanese potter. Very interesting to read Olsen's rules and Nils' rebuttal =
and
then read Leach.
I've designed the Olsen fast-fire on paper now with a double wall of bricks.
Where one uses 18x18x1 kiln shelves to make a floor over the fireboxes, what
does one use to make up that 1=22 of height on the rest of the walls and =
chimney
to keep the courses even? The only thing I could come up with (short of
=22ripping=22 a lot of bricks) is using a castable refractory and making =
essentially
several custom-sized 1=22 thick shelves. In Casson's book, his itty bitty =
wood
kiln plans have the same flaw. Plus my using a double wall of bricks =
further
complicates things because kiln shelves just don't come that wide. I'm =
working
on modifying the design to use a catenary arch (yes, I know, they are harder=
to
load and don't fire as evenly).
I'm also sending away for the June 1996 Ceramics Monthly, which purportedly =
has
a design for a Bourry box. Someone made a comment that a Bourry box takes
larger pieces of wood and therefore doesn't have to be stoked quite as =
often--a
boon, since I will be firing alone most of the time. I haven't looked on
bookfinder for Bourry's book yet. And I'll be writing to Steve Harrison
regarding his no-bull-igama.
I expect I will put in some good footings, since we are on clay loam that =
gets
very wet in the winter and we get wiggly earthquakes every couple of years.
Again, thanks.
deb
---------------------
now 15 years in Oregon
Deborah Bouchette
principal=40aleatoric-art.com
http://www.aleatoric-art.com
-----Original Message-----
From: David Hendley =5BSMTP:hendley=40tyler.net=5D
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 1999 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: Olsen's Fastfire Wood
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Deborah, most of your questions are just general
kiln-building questions, not specific to the fast-fire.
Buy or borrow some kiln building books before you start.
The 3 best books are Olsen's, Nils Lou's, and Daniel
Rhodes'. Look over all 3 if you can.
To answer your specific questions:
Where, in general, do I go to get the channel steel for the frame?
It's all angle iron. 2=22 angle iron is good - that means each
side is 2=22 wide. Get it at the junk yard, a welding shop,
or a machine shop. Angle iron is very common. You don't
need to specify any load carrying capacity or anything - just
ask for 2=22 angle iron.
Do I interlock the double rows of brick in the wall,
Yes, usually every 4 rows or so.
If I double the walls, then is it common sense to double the door as
well?
Yes.
How do I handle the junction between the walls and the flue?
You need to bridge over the opening to the flue.
This can be done with a cobble-arch, or you can
buy some special longer bricks to help bridge the
opening.
How do I double-up the roof? Just row over row?
Most people build the roof with arch bricks, which will give you
a 4 1/2=22 thick roof, and then add layer or two of ceramic
fiber (Kaowool) over the arch to add more insulation.
How much wear and tear does it save by putting a shed roof over it?
A shed roof is an absolute necessity for a kiln built
with insulating bricks. You have invested too much in the
bricks to cheap-out by not building a good shed.
Should I consider predominant wind direction in siting the kiln?
Yes. It will create smoke. You don't want it blowing
in your door or over to your close-by neighbors.
How big should cement footings be to hold up that mass?
It's not much weight, compared to a building.
In Texas, you don't even need a footing, just a slab.
in colder climes, I think you would want to go with
footings.
Does anyone put steel mesh over the chimney top, or does that cut draft?
Steel mesh would not last through the first firing.
It's HOT up there. I've never had a problem with
hot flying embers from the chimney.
If you've built houses, you can certainly build a kiln.
If you can't weld, just get someone to do the welding
for you. No big deal. Won't cost much.
--
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
hendley=40tyler.net
http://www.farmpots.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: Deborah Bouchette =3Cprincipal=40aleatoric-art.com=3E
To: =3CCLAYART=40LSV.UKY.EDU=3E
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 1:03 PM
Subject: Olsen's Fastfire Wood
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
------------------
If anyone out there has built the Olsen fastfire wood kiln and would share
information and maybe answer my questions, I'd appreciate it. I will be
building it using a double wall of soft brick. BUT I've never built any
kiln
before, and I'm not a steelworker, although I've designed/engineered two
houses
that I've had built. I have lots of questions, starting with...
Where, in general, do I go to get the channel steel for the frame?
(I was
hoping Olsen
had a kit, but alas...)
How do I specify what I need for steel?
Is it all u-shaped channel (except for l-shaped corner
braces)?
Do I interlock the double rows of brick in the wall, or do I just
lay 2 walls
up
side-by-side?
If I double the walls, then is it common sense to double the door as
well?
How do I handle the junction between the walls and the flue?
How do I double-up the roof? Just row over row?
How much wear and tear does it save by putting a shed roof over it?
Should I consider predominant wind direction in siting the kiln?
How big should cement footings be to hold up that mass? (I suppose
it doesn't
weigh
more than a 2-story frame house w/cement tile roof...)
Does anyone put steel mesh over the chimney top, or does that cut
draft?
thanks...
---------------------
now 15 years in Oregon
Deborah Bouchette
principal=40aleatoric-art.com
http://www.aleatoric-art.com
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