eden@sover.net on wed 8 sep 99
Responding to this private query publicly in case others are also curious.
Velvets, in application, are more akin to CoverCoats than to EZ strokes.
EZ strokes seem to be just color and binder, absorbing like watercolor with
the same clarity of stroke, which if you want that it is fine and if you
don't it is a drag. CoverCoats require 2-3 coats, depending on what color,
for opaque coverage, as the clay in them cuts down on color load. And the
clay in them makes for easier application, less absorption. Now Velvets,
in practice, seem to come down the middle there, with good features of
both. I would say generally they are more forgiving than EZ strokes and
slightly less loaded with color per stroke as they also have other stuff in
them.
Eleanora
>Just wondering how you like the velvets compared to the EZstrokes? Pluses
>and Minuses?
>
...............
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@sover.net
Valerie Hawkins on mon 5 may 03
I'm trying to do some brushwork on my pots. Just some leaf designs,
flowers, etc. All very simple. But I'm having a problem getting my colors
to stay true. Especially the greens and pinks. I'm using mason stains
mixed with frit 3134 and water, and also purchased underglazes on buff
stoneware, and then applying a clear glaze over all. The colors look good
after bisquing, but once glazed and fired, the colors are dull. I fire to
cone 6. I've tried several different clear glazes. Hansen's 5 X 20,
Chappel Clear Gloss and R&J's revision of 5X20. Should I go to a white
clay body, can I just not get vivid colors at cone 6, or would a different
glaze help?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Valerie
Charlotte
OWLPOTTER@AOL.COM on wed 7 may 03
After trying for bright, true colors from putting Mason stains under every
clear glaze I could find, I quit trying to use these stain mixtures as
underglaze.
Then I tried painting with my Mason stains mixture (mixed 60:40 with Gerstley
Borate) blended with water and a bit of glycerin, directly on top of the raw
glaze on bisqued pots. This gave me the results I was looking for. (See my
covered jar on Chris's Clayart site:
http://www.lightonecandle.com/clayartgallery.html
Because I was working with cone 8 clay bodies, I experimented to come up with
a cone 8 opaque white glaze over my buff colored stoneware body bisqued to
cone 06.
I would think that with a bit of experimentation, you could try painting with
your Mason stain and Frit 3134 mixture on top of a unfired cone 6 white glaze
(that had been opacified with Superpax or Zircopax) and get about the same
results.
Test, test, test...there is no other way to success that I know about.
Best of luck.
-Carolynn Palmer, Somerset Center, Michigan
Ababi on fri 9 may 03
Hello Carolynn Palmer of Somerset Center in Michigan ( USA)!
How do we call this way of glazing?
MAJOLICA!
This is the way I prefer to give to my students. I use 1/4 stain and 3/4 G.B in volume.
I don't give them the glycerin because I am a messier but it is a good idea.
For a majolica glaze you can try use Ron Roy's ^6 Majolica. In ^6 it is a real matte!
If you want to use Mason stains under a gloss glaze try this way: Add 50% in wight
stain to 50% in weight base engob. Glycerin might help too. The huge amount of stain
will be seen exhalent under the gloss glaze. The huge amount of the engob will help
the connection. If you apply thin it will be as nice as stain. though some students apply
too thick, the glaze still sticks!
For red use the red stain with the 3/4 G.B. in volume
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
========================original@message.==================
>After trying for bright, true colors from putting Mason stains under every
>clear glaze I could find, I quit trying to use these stain mixtures as
>underglaze.
>Then I tried painting with my Mason stains mixture (mixed 60:40 with Gerstley
>Borate) blended with water and a bit of glycerin, directly on top of the raw
>glaze on bisqued pots. This gave me the results I was looking for. (See my
>covered jar on Chris's Clayart site:
>http://www.lightonecandle.com/clayartgallery.html
>Because I was working with cone 8 clay bodies, I experimented to come up with
>a cone 8 opaque white glaze over my buff colored stoneware body bisqued to
>cone 06.
>I would think that with a bit of experimentation, you could try painting with
>your Mason stain and Frit 3134 mixture on top of a unfired cone 6 white glaze
>(that had been opacified with Superpax or Zircopax) and get about the same
>results.
>Test, test, test...there is no other way to success that I know about.
>Best of luck.
>-Carolynn Palmer, Somerset Center, Michigan
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Ababi on fri 9 may 03
I meant misers
Ababi
Messier too
---------- Original Message ----------
>Hello Carolynn Palmer of Somerset Center in Michigan ( USA)!
>How do we call this way of glazing?
>MAJOLICA!
>This is the way I prefer to give to my students. I use 1/4 stain and 3/4 G.B in volume.
>I don't give them the glycerin because I am a messier
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