Linda Leighton on fri 24 sep 99
Been looking in the archives, but I haven't seen my question addressed
directly. (Or at least I haven't recognized it...)
I want to make tiles for a hallway floor. They'll get walked on alot and I
want them to last for years and years and years. I'd welcome views,
discussion, and/or pointers to relevant writings that address these questions:
(1) Re. the clay body: Is a body that vitrifies at Cone 6, and is fired to
Cone 6, as strong (or comparably durable) as a Cone 10 body fired to Cone 10?
(I've been satisfied working at Cone 6 and have been developing glazes for
that temp, and have two kilns "rated" to Cone 8. Are there compelling
reasons for me to leave the Cone 6 arena when making floor tiles?)
(2) I know that the glaze is equally important for floor tiles, and that it
must be very durable. How do I test for and/or measure this type of
durability (as opposed to, say, "dishwasher safeness")? Or, is there no good
test, and its a matter of finding or developing a glaze that has high amounts
of certain ingredients that contribute to hardness?
TIA, Linda Leighton in Beautiful Madison Wisconsin... Say CHEEEEESE!
Paul Lewing on sat 25 sep 99
Linda Leighton wrote:
> (2) I know that the glaze is equally important for floor tiles, and that it
> must be very durable. How do I test for and/or measure this type of
> durability (as opposed to, say, "dishwasher safeness")? Or, is there no good
> test, and its a matter of finding or developing a glaze that has high amounts
> of certain ingredients that contribute to hardness?
Hi, Linda,
I don't know much about clay bodies but I think I can offer you some
advice here.
First, you don't want your glaze to be real glossy. In fact, a little
granular stuff like coarse alumina or fine sand in the glaze might be a
good idea. You don't want the glaze to be slippery, especially in areas
that are going to get wet.
Second, the hardest things you can put into your glazes are alumina,
silica, zirconium, and titanium. Luckily, these all contribute to
mattness, except the silica. And even it can, if you get enough of it.
So think matt opaque glazes rather than clear and opacify them with
Zircopax or some other thing like that, rather than tin.
Good luck,
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Ross Hartman on mon 27 sep 99
Linda;
This may be a bit of overkill as to what you are looking for, but the American
Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) maintains standards for the topics you
mention, and much more.
ASTM produces a large set of volumes that address all types of things but in
Section 15 there is a volume referred to as 15.02 and is called Glass; Ceramic
Whitewares.
Although there are many different tests and standards an example might be test
designated C 501 - 84 'Relative Resistance to Wear of Unglazed Ceramic Tile by
the Taber Abraser'.
Another possibly more relevant test would be designation C 1027 - 84
'Determining Visible Abrasion Resistance of Glazed Ceramic Tile'. This one is
interesting because it also describes a device that can be built fairly easily t
produce the test for yourself.
There are standardized tests for chemical resistance of glazes, warpage of tiles
strength of tiles, and so on...
I thought it might be useful for those producing tiles to know that there are
indeed tests for just about anything basic concerning ceramic materials. Granted
the tests may be more important to manufacturers but Architects are sometimes
going to be interested in whether you at least have an awareness of some of thes
tests. The ASTM volumes are probably available in the reference section of any
good library. I haven't checked online because I purchase the relevant materials
to keep in my personal library.
FWIW
L8R/Ross
Linda Leighton wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Been looking in the archives, but I haven't seen my question addressed
> directly. (Or at least I haven't recognized it...)
>
> I want to make tiles for a hallway floor. They'll get walked on alot and I
> want them to last for years and years and years. I'd welcome views,
> discussion, and/or pointers to relevant writings that address these questions:
>
> (1) Re. the clay body: Is a body that vitrifies at Cone 6, and is fired to
> Cone 6, as strong (or comparably durable) as a Cone 10 body fired to Cone 10?
> (I've been satisfied working at Cone 6 and have been developing glazes for
> that temp, and have two kilns "rated" to Cone 8. Are there compelling
> reasons for me to leave the Cone 6 arena when making floor tiles?)
>
> (2) I know that the glaze is equally important for floor tiles, and that it
> must be very durable. How do I test for and/or measure this type of
> durability (as opposed to, say, "dishwasher safeness")? Or, is there no good
> test, and its a matter of finding or developing a glaze that has high amounts
> of certain ingredients that contribute to hardness?
>
> TIA, Linda Leighton in Beautiful Madison Wisconsin... Say CHEEEEESE!
deborah goletz on mon 27 sep 99
Linda, you can certainly make floor tile with a cone 6 clay body (using a
vitreous body is advantageous). Some floor tile are not vitrified and
require a sealant on the surface. The durability of floor tile depends on
many factors, not the least of which is quality installation. If the tile
are a bit warped (common with hand made floor tile) a "mud job"
installation may be necessary to insure that the tile have the proper
support beneath them to avoid movement & cracking.
Another consideration is the smoothness factor of the glaze you choose -
you want a durable glaze but you don't want that floor to be too slippery -
there are friction tests which you might research through a commercial tile
manufacturing company. Floor tile which are too smooth/slippery can be
treated with a coating to make them less slippery but, like a sealant, this
coating needs re-application from time to time.
Sounds like a great project.
DeBorah Goletz
Joseph Carames on fri 8 oct 99
Hi
I have just finished tiling my bathroom floor. I used tiles made from
from white earthenware red earthenware, stoneware and porcelain. They
were fired at cone 04 cone 5 cone 10 cone 11 and raku. I got a lot of
support from people and a few nay sayers. But what I have found out is a)
I won't be laying tiles for a living and b) the type of clay you use is
not so important. What is important is that the tile is fully supported
when you put in down. Also high gloss glazes can be slippery when wet.
The tiles should be well seated in the mortar or whatever you use to get
it stuck to the ground this is very important - the tile will not be
stressed and the only area getting wear is the surface.
The Romans and Europeans used unglazed terra cotta for tiling indoors and
outdoors. for my two cents do what you lile and have a ball.
Frank Giorgini has a good book Handmade Tiles well worth the $$.
On Fri, 24 Sep 1999 10:42:07 EDT Linda Leighton
writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>Been looking in the archives, but I haven't seen my question addressed
>directly. (Or at least I haven't recognized it...)
>
>I want to make tiles for a hallway floor. They'll get walked on alot
>and I
>want them to last for years and years and years. I'd welcome views,
>discussion, and/or pointers to relevant writings that address these
>questions:
>
>(1) Re. the clay body: Is a body that vitrifies at Cone 6, and is
>fired to
>Cone 6, as strong (or comparably durable) as a Cone 10 body fired to
>Cone 10?
> (I've been satisfied working at Cone 6 and have been developing
>glazes for
>that temp, and have two kilns "rated" to Cone 8. Are there compelling
>reasons for me to leave the Cone 6 arena when making floor tiles?)
>
>(2) I know that the glaze is equally important for floor tiles, and
>that it
>must be very durable. How do I test for and/or measure this type of
>durability (as opposed to, say, "dishwasher safeness")? Or, is there
>no good
>test, and its a matter of finding or developing a glaze that has high
>amounts
>of certain ingredients that contribute to hardness?
>
>TIA, Linda Leighton in Beautiful Madison Wisconsin... Say CHEEEEESE!
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