tmartens on fri 24 sep 99
I like the look of the handles I put on my cups. Different to the ones
I use on mugs. About 30% of the cup handles develop quite a wide
crack in the curve of the handle. I assume I am stressing the clay
too much? I flatten the end of the pulled handle and attach the
flattened part to the cup, then curve it over and the bottim end is
finished in the normal way.
I am stubborn about what I like and was wondering if there is any
advice out there for doing the handles "MY way" but not losing so
many?
I have fixed some by injecting paper clay into the cracks with a
biopsy needle and then working a thin coil in there. That is quicker
than making another and waiting for it to dry etc. Have test driven
these fixed crack cups at home for well over a year and no
mishaps, but would still like to be able to avoid them alltogether as
I don't feel I can sell the fixed ones.
Anyone have any ideas?
Toni
Stephen Mills on sat 25 sep 99
Toni,
When you've finished each handle, try running a wet finger over the
outside curve of the handle, it softens it a little bit and helps to
relieve the stress from bending the clay.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , tmartens writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I like the look of the handles I put on my cups. Different to the ones
>I use on mugs. About 30% of the cup handles develop quite a wide
>crack in the curve of the handle. I assume I am stressing the clay
>too much? I flatten the end of the pulled handle and attach the
>flattened part to the cup, then curve it over and the bottim end is
>finished in the normal way.
>I am stubborn about what I like and was wondering if there is any
>advice out there for doing the handles "MY way" but not losing so
>many?
>I have fixed some by injecting paper clay into the cracks with a
>biopsy needle and then working a thin coil in there. That is quicker
>than making another and waiting for it to dry etc. Have test driven
>these fixed crack cups at home for well over a year and no
>mishaps, but would still like to be able to avoid them alltogether as
>I don't feel I can sell the fixed ones.
>Anyone have any ideas?
>Toni
>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk
Lori Pierce on sun 26 sep 99
Toni, I have been testing several stoneware and porcelain bodies recently,
making mugs and pulling handles.Tho I have not applied a handle in the
manner of your cup handle with the sharp bend where it attaches at the top,
I have learned that there are enormous differences in the handles made from
various clay bodies. In my experience the problem you cite can come from a
clay that is too short (non-plastic); too 'dry'; not throughly aged,prepared
and wedged; and/or a handle and mug that have been assembled and NOT been
very slowly damp-dried to equalize the moisture of both parts. For
'conditioning' my test mugs and handles I put them in a damp box made from
old 50's flea market cake boxes with water soaked plaster bats in the
bottom. I have both metal and plastic tupperware types and both work like a
dream. When the mugs and handles are equal in moisture you can start
'cracking' the lid a bit until they are throughly dry. This will take some
time depending on your atmosphere, obviously. I wonder, have you had this
problem with more than one clay body? I can't imagine dipping the handles in
wax , wrapping them with plastic strips or some of the other labor intensive
solutions I've read of. This is the easy, lazy way. But remember, always
start with the best clay body for the job. Test it by making a coil and
wrapping it around a pencil...if it doesn't 'crack' it should be OK. Good
luck, Lori in New Port Richey, Fl.
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Mills
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Saturday, September 25, 1999 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: Stress cracks in handles?
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Toni,
When you've finished each handle, try running a wet finger over the
outside curve of the handle, it softens it a little bit and helps to
relieve the stress from bending the clay.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , tmartens writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I like the look of the handles I put on my cups. Different to the ones
>I use on mugs. About 30% of the cup handles develop quite a wide
>crack in the curve of the handle. I assume I am stressing the clay
>too much? I flatten the end of the pulled handle and attach the
>flattened part to the cup, then curve it over and the bottim end is
>finished in the normal way.
>I am stubborn about what I like and was wondering if there is any
>advice out there for doing the handles "MY way" but not losing so
>many?
>I have fixed some by injecting paper clay into the cracks with a
>biopsy needle and then working a thin coil in there. That is quicker
>than making another and waiting for it to dry etc. Have test driven
>these fixed crack cups at home for well over a year and no
>mishaps, but would still like to be able to avoid them alltogether as
>I don't feel I can sell the fixed ones.
>Anyone have any ideas?
>Toni
>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk
goatnose on mon 27 sep 99
Toni: You may be trying to get to much shape into your handls while they
are too dry. If you are pulling handles, dip
your pulling hand in slip-very-frequently.
Also you might consider making your
place of attachment a little larger. If you
pull handles dry you're going to get stress
cracks for the same reason these cracks
occur in the bottoms of plates thrown too
dry. Lubrication is King!
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