B. Acton on sat 2 oct 99
I'm going to purchase new electric kiln which has the following
characteristics: Cone 10 capability, 240 volts, single phase,
computerized firing mechanism, some sort of power venting system, about
7-8 cubic feet or so. I'm leaning to Skutt. Does anybody have any
comments or advice with regard to this issue.
Bob Acton
Calgary, Alberta
Martin A. Arkowitz on sun 3 oct 99
------------------
--- You wrote:
I'm going to purchase new electric kiln which has the following
characteristics: Cone 10 capability, 240 volts, single phase,
computerized firing mechanism, some sort of power venting system, about
7-8 cubic feet or so. I'm leaning to Skutt. Does anybody have any
comments or advice with regard to this issue.
--- end of quote ---
for over twenty years i used an L=26L and was very satisfied. my last kiln
purchase-about 3 years ago- was a ConeArt. this has an element in the =
bottom
which has helped even out my firings on the bottom shelf. also as i do my =
own
element replacements i am very impresed with the switch box of the coneart. =
it
is well constructed and easy to handle. imho the electrical connection are =
very
easy to work with and well designed. before you buy a skutt you should open=
the
switch box and check the mechanism for element replacement, especially if =
you
are intending to do your own replacements. the coneart has extra insulation
between the metal skin and the brick walls. the bailey vent system was easy=
to
install and works very efficiently, but i am sorry i did not get the
computerized finring mechanism. i believed then that i did not have the =
ability
to fix the system if it blew, and i believe i should be able to fix my own
equipment and not depend on outside help. just a bunch of my thoughts on =
your
upcoming purchase.
eleanor arkowitz in cold, but colorful n.h.
=3Cmarty1=40dartmouth.edu
Dave Eickholt on sun 3 oct 99
Hi Bob,
I have two skutt self firing kilns. One is a KM 1027-3 [three inch brick]
and the other is a KM-1231 production kiln. The KM 1027 fires to cone ten
just fine, but like most cone ten kilns really slows down around 2000 degrees
after 10 or so firings. [ I do crystalline with cone 10 regularly and 5-8 hr
hold around 2000 ] But it does do the job very well despite the hard use. The
production kiln [KM-1231] is a true dream, I've only had it for a short time
so do not know if the life span of the elements is good or bad [$600 to
replace the complete set of wires] fires like a wonder. The down side was the
100 AMP breaker ( could have used a 90 AMP but wanted a little over and cost
was the same) [I was lucky I had the extra electric capacity] electrician
said $1500 at least if I had needed an electric line put in] as was it cost
$500 to hot wire it into the electric box and move plug outlet down for the
KM 1027-3] I also have a small kiln that has 2 inch brick but cools too
quickly for cone ten firings, things like plates tend to crack it has no
venting system. I would not get any kiln with 2 inch brick for cone 10
firings. I have two envirovents [wish I had looked down the road and saved
myself some bucks and bought the model with the second kiln capacity] they
work really well. I don't have any experience with the zone feature on some
of the new KM kilns but have very little variance in temperature a little
cool at top and a touch hot at the bottom. Both kilns fire this way for me,
could just be how I pack them or the venting system holes I chose top drill [
can have more or less or even block a venting hole have not bothered with is
opion] I really like both my skutts and have had the 1027-3 for 2 yrs and
just can not say enough about how vary will it has held up for me [2000
degree holds for hrs on end are murder on the elements and thermocouple]
Great kilns would do even better if I just fired to cone ten held a few
minutes and then shut off. The Producion Kiln KM1231 is able to go up too
fast so my glazes don't mature the way I like and I tend to fire pretty fast
for crystalline, so far just a fantastic kiln.... hey skutt how about a kick
back for the nice indorsement?
Dave Eickholt davesglaze@aol.com
CINDI ANDERSON on mon 4 oct 99
I have that very kiln, the Skutt 1027 automatic with Envirovent.
Although it's the only kiln I've ever owned so I have nothing to compare
it with, I love it. It works great, has enough space for a lot of stuff
but not so much it goes empty. The computerized part is essential!
"Martin A. Arkowitz" wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> ------------------
> --- You wrote:
>
> I'm going to purchase new electric kiln which has the following
> characteristics: Cone 10 capability, 240 volts, single phase,
> computerized firing mechanism, some sort of power venting system, about
> 7-8 cubic feet or so. I'm leaning to Skutt. Does anybody have any
> comments or advice with regard to this issue.
>
> --- end of quote ---
> for over twenty years i used an L&L and was very satisfied. my last kiln
> purchase-about 3 years ago- was a ConeArt. this has an element in the bottom
> which has helped even out my firings on the bottom shelf. also as i do my own
> element replacements i am very impresed with the switch box of the coneart. i
> is well constructed and easy to handle. imho the electrical connection are ver
> easy to work with and well designed. before you buy a skutt you should open t
> switch box and check the mechanism for element replacement, especially if you
> are intending to do your own replacements. the coneart has extra insulation
> between the metal skin and the brick walls. the bailey vent system was easy t
> install and works very efficiently, but i am sorry i did not get the
> computerized finring mechanism. i believed then that i did not have the abili
> to fix the system if it blew, and i believe i should be able to fix my own
> equipment and not depend on outside help. just a bunch of my thoughts on you
> upcoming purchase.
>
> eleanor arkowitz in cold, but colorful n.h.
>
Mark Tigges on mon 31 jan 05
Dear Clayarters,
I have been following with great interest the most recent thread on
purchasing a new electric kiln. My ability to fire is pretty much
restricted to electricity, and my current kiln is not quite adequate
for the work I am doing. It is an old Olympic, probably 20 years old,
if not more, and is rated to cone 1. I routinely fire to cone 6. It
can be a bit tough sometimes getting there, but it manages. It's
length in the tooth shows inside as the brick is damaged to an
uncomfortable degree in places. For all of these reasons and a couple
others, a replacement kiln has been on my mind as well.
I visited my local ceramics supplier, Greenbarn Pottery Supply, and
the local sage looked at me quizzically and asked why on earth I would
be interested in buying a kiln. I returned his quizzical look and
asked him why he didn't want to sell me one. He explained that he
can't see buying a manufactured kiln for personala use, the only
people that buy them are; 1, lazy people, 2, people who need them for
institutional needs. He knows I'm don't fall in the former category,
and despite evidence that I ought institutionalized on occasion, he
knows I'm not a school studio. It certainly could be argued that a
production potter with a big gas kiln whose only electric needs are
for bisque could fall under an institutional need, but he felt and
convinced me, that I should build one. He proceeded to get out plans
that he designed a number of years ago for a 7 cubic foot, front
loading, heavily insulated, arch roof, floor element kiln that were it
purchased would cost me more than $7000 canadian. Unfortunately that
kiln is too large for me. I wish I could afford to have it, but I
only have 40 amps in my studio (a detached garage). So I am stuck
with kilns less than 3 cubic feet, which is a touch small for my
production but not overly constraining.
Unfortunately, while I hold a graduate degree in applied science, I
don't have very much knowledge of either the theory or the practice of
electricity. I could build the kiln that Stan designed, but I need to
scale it down. I have searched high and low for a book with detailed
information about the art of designing and building electric kilns.
I have come up almost empty handed. On a recent trip to Portland, I
visited the excellent Powells Books, and picked up a wonderful book (I
can't remember the author) called "Electric Kilns," it in fact has
designs for two kilns, one very similar to Stans, and one 1 cf test
kiln. Again though, they are only plans without any information to
aid one in modifying the plans to suit.
So, after the long winded introduction, does anybody have any
recommendation as to source material for learning what I can to design
my own? I have access to a professional electrician (40 years of
industrial experience, a family friend) so I have no fear of danger,
he'll be able to assure me that I'll be safe or show me how to fix
it. I just need the info on circuit lengths, ressistivity, amperage,
switches etc. that is required to design the kiln.
Mark.
sincultura13 on mon 31 jan 05
"So I am stuck
with kilns less than 3 cubic feet, which is a touch small for my
production but not overly constraining."
Hi Mark, I'm in a similar situation... I've been thinking of getting
another small but taller kiln with true cone ten capabilities. But,
thought it can offer some flexibility is not really an alternative
for a studio size kiln... :(
Sincultura
Emily Lees on mon 31 jan 05
Has anybody out there had experience with Paragon's Iguana kiln? It is
supposed to be a bit over 4 cubic feet and go to cone 10.
Mark Tigges on mon 31 jan 05
On Mon, Jan 31, 2005 at 08:37:02PM -0500, Emily Lees wrote:
> Has anybody out there had experience with Paragon's Iguana kiln? It is
> supposed to be a bit over 4 cubic feet and go to cone 10.
>
It certainly looks like a beautifull product:
http://www.globalspec.com/FeaturedProducts/Detail?ExhibitID=12657
But, if you're in the market for a small kiln (which I presume you are
given you're looking at 4cf) bear in mind that it seems to me
(admittedly not the greatest expert) that this kiln may not be
suitable for all situations. It seems reasonable that one of the
reasons a smaller kiln is desired is because of available current.
This kiln is 10800 watts. Which at 240 puts it around 45 amps.
What I have been told is a good rule of thumb is 7.2 amps / cubic
foot. So this kiln is quite overpowered. Not a bad thing, it just
might be out of the acceptable range for some small-kiln constraints.
Best regards,
Mark.
william schran on tue 1 feb 05
Mark wrote:recommendation as to source material for learning what I can to design
my own? >
My recommendation is to buy an electric kiln of the size that will
satisfy your needs. You will have a piece of equipment that has been
engineered, tested, UL certified and somebody to call if there are
problems. I'd also recommend a manual kiln, rather than a
programmable one, install a vent system and always fire with witness
cones.
Bill
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