CNW on sat 2 oct 99
I've been using terra sigs lately and sometimes mix mason stains with them.
I paint at least two coats one up and down the other side to side.
Sometimes I burnish sometimes not. I mostly apply the terra sig at leather
hard.
I have been getting some bubbling (no, not like a glaze) and some areas that
just don't seem to adhere. I worked on one piece last night and I had
applied terra sig at just wetter than leather hard and when it was dry I
started to burnish and some areas the terra sig came off, just about a dime
size area. The other piece was burnished at leather hard and showed no signs
of problems until after it came out of the kiln.
I use a 50/50 OM4-EPK mix and the last one I used mostly OM4.
Is this an occasion for adding vinegar? Any other suggestions?
Celia in NC
cwike@conninc.com
Tetsuya Shimano on mon 4 oct 99
hi celia!
i have no idea what's wrong with your terra sigi, but consider the following
questions.
did u use commercial clay?
did u use recycle clay?
did u apply terra sigi on wet clay?
did u apply terra sigi on barnished surface?
did u bunish the surface with your finger tip?
did u apply terra sigi thick or thin?
have u applyy terra sigi on bisque?
when did u make your terra sigi?
how long have u been using the same terra sigi?
the problem is that sometimes, claybody is not good. when i use a commercial
clay (low fire clay, white) and i got bubling problems and some work were
explored in the kiln. so commercial, recycle, and your clay might have some
different stuff and it didn't work for terra sigi.
another problem is when u apply terra sigi on the wet clay, u have to dry
really slowly and then wait for lether hard. when u barnish the surface, use
your finger tip and really gentely barnish the surface. if u apply terra
sigi on the barnished clay surface, terra sigi won't stay on the surface. it
will be peeled off after the firing. also, if u apply thick, it'll be peeled
off too.
also, home made terra sigi doesn't keep long. some are yes, but some are
don't. for example, i use appache clay for terra sigi and i haven't used it
long time. what was happened is all terra sigi truned black and smelled like
fungus. also, it's thicker than flesh terra sigi. maybe, my method is wrong,
but it happened so....flesh terra sigi is better to use!
well, u might change the application time. perhaps, u can apply terra sigi
on bisques. also, use ball caly 100% terra sigi. usually, epk doesn't work
for terra sigi. little bit of epk is fine, but 50% is a lot! i don't know
anything about vineger, but i'm sure 100% ball clay works.
i don't know i answer to u, but consider these questions.
hope u get good terra sigi.
t
Jan Hurd on mon 4 oct 99
I've never tried putting TS on anything other than dry clay and never had any
problems like those you describe. I use TS that is simply ball clay and water
with a little Calgon. 1200 grams of ball clay to three quarts of water. Enough
Calgon to keep it in suspension maybe 2 Tablespoons. You let it sit for at
least 24 hours and then take the top 2/3 to use and discard the bottom 1/3.
Some people let it settle again and separate it again. Good luck. Jan
CNW wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been using terra sigs lately and sometimes mix mason stains with them.
> I paint at least two coats one up and down the other side to side.
> Sometimes I burnish sometimes not. I mostly apply the terra sig at leather
> hard.
>
> I have been getting some bubbling (no, not like a glaze) and some areas that
> just don't seem to adhere. I worked on one piece last night and I had
> applied terra sig at just wetter than leather hard and when it was dry I
> started to burnish and some areas the terra sig came off, just about a dime
> size area. The other piece was burnished at leather hard and showed no signs
> of problems until after it came out of the kiln.
>
> I use a 50/50 OM4-EPK mix and the last one I used mostly OM4.
> Is this an occasion for adding vinegar? Any other suggestions?
>
> Celia in NC
> cwike@conninc.com
Paul Huel on mon 4 oct 99
------------------
Try using only om =234 clay for terra sig and apply when the pots are
dry, not leather hard and burnish lightly. you can apply several
coats, but don't let it dry out in between.
Paul
=3E----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3EI've been using terra sigs lately and sometimes mix mason stains with =
them.
=3EI paint at least two coats one up and down the other side to side.
=3ESometimes I burnish sometimes not. I mostly apply the terra sig at =
leather
=3Ehard.
=3E
=3EI have been getting some bubbling (no, not like a glaze) and some areas =
that
=3Ejust don't seem to adhere. I worked on one piece last night and I had
=3Eapplied terra sig at just wetter than leather hard and when it was dry I
=3Estarted to burnish and some areas the terra sig came off, just about a =
dime
=3Esize area. The other piece was burnished at leather hard and showed no =
signs
=3Eof problems until after it came out of the kiln.
=3E
=3EI use a 50/50 OM4-EPK mix and the last one I used mostly OM4.
=3EIs this an occasion for adding vinegar? Any other suggestions?
=3E
=3ECelia in NC
=3Ecwike=40conninc.com
P a u l =26 C a r o l e H u e l - =
dragonfly=40kispiox.com
http://www.kispiox.com/pottery
Barbra Kates on mon 4 oct 99
Try applying thin coats-milk to cream consistency- of Sig to
non-burnished Bone Dry wear, never on leatherhard. Buff the Sig with
your hand, chamois cloth or dry cleaners plastic. No need to burnish.
If your Sig is prepared correctly, it will almost look burnished as you
apply it. I usually apply a 3 thin coats, lightly buffing (when the
sheen disappears) in between coats. I find OM4 gives the best results.
I fire Sig to cone 06 or lower. You might want to try ball milling the
sig after you add the mason stains. The mason stain particles are
larger than the fine Sig.
Barb Kates
Architektura Visiting Artist Workshops
Yelm, WA.
Vince Pitelka on tue 5 oct 99
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been using terra sigs lately and sometimes mix mason stains with them.
> I paint at least two coats one up and down the other side to side.
> Sometimes I burnish sometimes not. I mostly apply the terra sig at leather
> hard.
>
> I have been getting some bubbling (no, not like a glaze) and some areas that
> just don't seem to adhere. I worked on one piece last night and I had
> applied terra sig at just wetter than leather hard and when it was dry I
> started to burnish and some areas the terra sig came off, just about a dime
> size area. The other piece was burnished at leather hard and showed no signs
> of problems until after it came out of the kiln.
>
> I use a 50/50 OM4-EPK mix and the last one I used mostly OM4.
> Is this an occasion for adding vinegar? Any other suggestions?
Celia -
For best results you should not apply the terra sig until the wares are very
hard leather-hard, or bone-dry. I always apply it at bone dry. It adheres
best with a light sanding first, and sufficient coats will completely
conceal any sanding marks. Always use a VERY THIN terra sig mix, with
multiple coats to build up the surface quality you desire. Terra sig makes
an excellent burnishing medium, but it must be burnished BEFORE it dries
out. Wait just until the surface moisture absorbs into the clay, and then
start burnishing. For a really glassy shine, apply the sig to your
satisfaction, then apply a thin smear-coat of lard, and let that soak in for
ten or fifteen minutes, and then start burnishing. Initially it will seem
like you are just smearing things around, but you will be leveling an
compacting the surface. Stick with it, and you will get a surface like glass.
For my complete spiel on terra sig, see Tony Hansen's IMC webpage at
http://digitalfire.com/education/glaze/terasig.htm - if you want really
superior terra sig, make it this way and do not cut any corners. And if you
want to add colorants and still have the best sig, it should be ball-milled.
Ball mills are very expensive, but a good-quality rubber-lined rock polisher
will work, and will only cost you about a hundred bucks.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
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