Laura Freedman on sun 10 oct 99
I am working with Standard Ceramic #266 which is a dark chocolate brown
when fired to ^6. Most of my glazes are not attractive on this body. Does
anyone have a few glazes that would enhance this body? I leave some items
unglazed because I like the color of the body, but some things need to be
glazed. TIA. Laura
Bill Williams on mon 11 oct 99
I used a black clay for a while and found Floating Blue works well on the
darker clays. Looks good if you leave part of the piece unglazed also.
Connie
-----Original Message-----
From: Laura Freedman
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Sunday, October 10, 1999 11:22 AM
Subject: glazes needed
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I am working with Standard Ceramic #266 which is a dark chocolate brown
when fired to ^6. Most of my glazes are not attractive on this body. Does
anyone have a few glazes that would enhance this body? I leave some items
unglazed because I like the color of the body, but some things need to be
glazed. TIA. Laura
Anj Campbell on tue 12 oct 99
Hi Laura!
The following glaze looks good on Standard's 266,
especially if taken to a high cone6, when it develops
a warm satiny-matte lustre. It works well on
Standard's #308 too, though I don't like it as well on
light bodies. Dips and brushes well.
I got the glaze recipe from the Riverbend Art Centre
in Dayton, OH, but have no information on its origin
or food-safety. Comments from the Glaze Pantheon would
be welcome.
Riverbend's Matte tan
50.00 Nepheline syenite
18.00 gerstley borate
8.000 dolomite
18.00 talc
6.00 EPK
11.20 tin oxide
3.52 red iron oxide
1.76 manganese dioxide
As for other glazes on #266:
Floating Blue goes to Black with a light blue haze
over this body. Pretty.
There's a chromium based Hunter Green that was posted
to the list which works well--the green is VERY dark,
but is still definitely a green. Not food safe.
Randy Red goes yuck brown--I wouldn't recommend it.
As far as commercial glazes go, Mid South Ceramics
(Nashville TN) "Opulence" series Midnight Blue,
Burgundy, Dark Spruce Green, and Grape work very well,
as does a color called "Sea Green Pearl"(a transparent
deep green with an interesting rutile break to it)
that is carried by Columbus Clay in OH.
Still haven't found a clear that works well with this
body, unfortunately.
Let me know if you cannot find the Hunter Green in the
archives, and I will dig up the recipe.
Anj Campbell
=====
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Leslie St.Clair on tue 12 oct 99
Here's my favorite glaze for Standard# 266 .
Chappell SG34 C5-6 clear gloss
Gerstley borate 49.5
flint 32
EPK 16
whiting 1.5
Add: 1.5 chrome and 1 cobalt carbonate.
This is a translucent teal color that appears mottled black and teal over
266 clay.
Also, I've had bloating problems with that clay and was told that it
should be fired to C5 rather than C6 to avoid this. I don't know if that's
true since I stopped using the clay because of bloating. Good luck
Leslie St.Clair
Ft. Mitchell, KY
ababy sharon on tue 12 oct 99
Hallo Laura!
Here is an interesting combination looks nicer on NOT white body.
It made out of two glazes one on top of the other.
The first is my "translation" to Yellow ash from Carolina Clay:
Yellow ash:
=========
DOLOMITE 7.3
LITHIUM CARBONATE 2.1
RUTILE 1.2
TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1.2
PINE ASH 34.1
BARIUM CARBONATE 1.5
RED CLAY 42.6 You can use RedArt
SILICA 11.1
You apply this glaze and above it, ( before firing) you brush uneven the
second glaze.
BLUE WITH WHITE DOTS
(This one came from my school but no one there remembers its origin it is
actually for 1240C but the yellow ash let`s it "play" nice at ^6)
Blue With White Dots:
F-4 FELDSPAR soda 60
COBALT OXIDE 1
WHITING 20
ENGLISH KAOLIN 20
RUTILE 3
Spraying:blue with whit dots. At ^7 you have to put 25% of the
feldspar-Potash.
With a brush difference where thin:blue and green where thick white.very
nice and special above "Yellow Ash"!
Looks complicated? It worth it!
I am preparing more variations of those glazes if they will succeed I will
send them too
Ababi
----- Original Message -----
From: Laura Freedman
To:
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 1999 06:21
Subject: glazes needed
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am working with Standard Ceramic #266 which is a dark chocolate brown
> when fired to ^6. Most of my glazes are not attractive on this body. Does
> anyone have a few glazes that would enhance this body? I leave some items
> unglazed because I like the color of the body, but some things need to be
> glazed. TIA. Laura
>
Cindy Strnad, Earthen Vessels Pottery on tue 12 oct 99
Laura,
Try semi-opaque white. (Just use less zircopax or whatever opacifier your
recipe calls for.) I use Tony Hansen's 5x20 glaze with 7 of zircopax on my
toasty brown clay. Slips which you can carve through at leather hard stage
would also be likely to work well.
I think that when all's said and done, one should take advantage of the
darkness of these specialty clays, leaving large areas unglazed. If you want
beautiful glazes, as opposed to beautiful natural surfaces, use a lighter
clay for those pieces. Use the clay's natural attributes in a way designed
to showcase them, not work around them. I leave much of the carved surfaces
of my pottery unglazed. I want that surface dark, so I paint it with a wash
of iron oxide and/or manganese. The glazed portions of the pot don't get
this special treatment, so the glazes look nice as well. Just a thought.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
Custer, SD
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