David Hendley on tue 19 oct 99
Joyce, there is no absolute dividing line between
'slip' and 'glaze'.
A 'slip-glaze' can be a dry matt, like just colored clay,
or as glossy as a celadon glaze.
A slip-glaze can be applied to wet, leather-hard, or
dry clay. Even, according to some things I've read,
to bisque ware, although that doesn't make much
sense to me - I would just call that a glaze.
I paint my slip glazes on wet to leather-hard clay.
If you want a matt surface, just use a porcelain
slip and add the color.
Here is a recipe for a more glossy slip glaze (^10):
Custer feldspar 27
EPK kaolin 25
soda ash 2
yellow stain 15 (Cerdac cadmium inclusion stain)
The soda ash helps give better 'brushability'.
This is good just by itself, but can also influence
a glaze applied over it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Joyce Lee
Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 2:39 PM
Subject: slip glaze
| ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
| I want to use David's suggestion made some time back for adding yellow
| inclusion stain to a slip glaze for ^10 Reduction firing. I have what I
| think is a reliable slip glaze recipe gleaned from Clayart some time
| ago. Anyway, looks to me as if it would work. Problem: I am not sure how
| to use a slip glaze. I'm guessing that it's applied as most slips, maybe
| in this case even to wet clay, but does one then use a clear glaze on
| top or just leave the slip glaze as THE only glaze? And, yes indeed, I
| WILL experiment and try different methods to see which I happen to
| prefer ... but it's nice to benefit from others' experiences for at
| least a starting point. We each have our own learning styles, and that's
| mine ... This is my third attempt at yellow. Geoff from Australia sent
| me his recipe which I like very much ... but still want to use the
| DeGussa stains ... too expensive to just let sit.
Lily Krakowski on sun 1 dec 02
There was a question some days back about Ravenscrag Slip, which the Bailey
catalog annotes as Alberta Slip II.
Slip glazes are glazes made from surface clays--essentially highly impure
clays found --aha! insight!-- on the earth's SURFACE. River beds, lake
bottoms and such provide these most everywhere. Many country kids have used
these clays to sculpt with. Albany Slip was/is such a clay found in the
Albany area--I gather--along the Hudson.
Fine. These clays because of their impurities tend to fire themselves into
glazes at the appropriate temperatures which for Albany was, I think, c.8.
Diverse fluxes will modify these into lovely glazes at lower temps. They
are, as expected, browns and blacks, which can be modified by the addition
of small amounts of manganese, cobalt, copper. I hae never tried nickel but
some day I will. Additions of iron and rutile also produce interesting
Red Art Clay works very well as a replacement for Albany, although, of
course, it is not exactly the same, and does not have exactly the same
I expect the Alberta slips, which i have not yet tried, will work similarly.
As a last note; found clays are well worth a try. many, however, as so full
of sand and fine pebbles they need to be washed and sieved before use.
P.O. Box #1
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
Lili Krakowski on wed 25 may 11
Re: the high Barnard clay glaze with another glaze atop.
I find that I get the most satisfactory results with slip glazes when I =3D
apply them on leatherhard ware.
For a number of years now I have applied glaze with brushes--other =3D
methods being too difficult because of hand problems. (Not to weep: =3D
Lucie Rie, we are told, applied all her glazes with "cheap brushes" =3D
from Woolworth.) I do as much glazing as possible, "on the wheel" after =
The slip glazes just fit well on leatherhard..and further glaze on the =3D
bisque adheres well too.=3D20
Be of good courage