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???soda wash will stick

updated sun 31 oct 99

 

Lynne Antone on fri 29 oct 99

In a message dated 10/28/1999 10:43:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
vual7@yahoo.com writes:

<< "you can not stilt HF"...
Is this so??? And what are pads??? >>

I use fiber insulation that I have a small sheet of, can't remember what it's
made of. It looks like a sheet of cotton. I tear off three small chunks and
place them under the pot to balance it and it does great.

I fire at cone 6, mostly oxidation until we get the gas kiln kinks worked
out. I have stilted work at cone 6, the ceramic ones with wire tips. The only
time I had a problem was when I stilted very round bottom pieces which rolled
over on the stilts when the glaze melted. Duh, what was I thinking?

Also, someone asked about how to apply the soda ash. I have only brushed it
on. I apply an oxide wash to a textured area, then wipe off the excess and
then brush on the soda ash wash to create a slightly shiny surface. I have
also brushed dark glazes into the textures, wiped the excess off and brushed
the soda wash over that area. So far there has not been a problem with the
wash and the glaze interacting. After I have 1-3 coats of the wash on the
pot, I wax resist that area and then dip the pot into a different glaze to
finish the pot.

I am no expert on this, only learned how to do this at one of Dannon's
workshops this summer at Michael McDowell's farm. But I am having a lot of
fun with it. Check out the article on Dannon in "Pottery Making Illustrated"
(think it was a two issues ago) to see the effects of the wash on some pots.

Lynne Antone
Olympia WA
Just had the first wind storm yesterday as a prelude to winter. Blew off a
chunk of metal roofing placed on top of the kiln to keep it dry (haven't
sealed around the chimney yet) and also the kiln god placed on top. The
roofing was on the concrete floor of the kiln shed with the kiln god resting
on top, unbroken. Think this is one piece I'll keep with the kiln for it's
good luck.

Jeff Campana on fri 29 oct 99

Anji,

Pads, also called wads or cookies, can be easily made. Simply take about 3
and a half scoops of Kaolin and 3 scoops of alumina hydrate, mix in with
some water until it is a soft plastic consistancy. The high amount of
alumina with resist the soda, and fall right off the pot after firing, also
leaving nice decorative circles where the flashing did not occur. To apply
these to the bottom of the pots, take three or four small balls and glue
them to the bottom of your pot with elmer's glue. Then turn it right side
up, and press lightly to level the pot and flatten the wads. I've also
seen these wads pre-cut from coils and bisqued, and set on the kiln shelf
under the pots, or hot-glued on. This is common and required practice for
salt firing, and the effect of the soda ash is somewhat like a saltglaze.

Question: My professor told me that the soluble soda ash will leach into
the clay body and flux it, causing slumping on fragile forms like wide
bowls and plattes with ring feet. Any experiences of slumping with the
soda wash?

Anji Henderson wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> In reading this it reminds me of something once told
> with in my ear shot........ "you can not stilt HF"...
> Is this so??? And what are pads???
> Just wondering..
> Anji
>
> --- Lynne Antone wrote:
> > ----------------------------Original
> > message----------------------------
> > In a message dated 10/26/1999 8:35:50 AM Pacific
> > Daylight Time,
> > millie@bcpl.net writes:
> >
> > << at the risk of exposing my ignorance. Can you
> > dip a pot into the soda
> > solution? and does it have to be wiped off the
> > bottom in order to avoid
> > sticking to the shelf.? >>
> >
> > Cheryl,
> >
> > As I recall the instructions from Dannon (we'll see
> > if I was a good student),
> > you can get the soda ash wash on the bottom of the
> > pot, but need to put down
> > pads to keep it from sticking to the shelf. I always
> > applied the wash to very
> > textured areas, so it was too difficult to wash them
> > up completely. I waxed
> > some first and tried the pads with others. Both ways
> > work fine.
> >
> > I think it's best to paint the wash on, sometimes
> > just one coat will give you
> > enough shine. And whatever you don't use of the
> > wash, if left sitting for
> > very long, will separate out into crystals. I just
> > carefully reheat it in the
> > microwave just until melted again, trying not to
> > boil the wash. I have never
> > mixed up more than 1/2 cup at a time.
> >
> > Lynne Antone
> > Olympia WA
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

Cindy Strnad, Earthen Vessels Pottery on sat 30 oct 99

Hello, all.

Just a quick question. I had gotten the impression that this soda wash for
artificial flashing was a reduction process, and so hadn't paid a lot of
attention as I haven't the capability to fire reduction (yet). Was I right?
Wrong? It would be fun to try if it can be done in oxidation.

Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
Custer, SD

Vera Rankovic on sat 30 oct 99

At the risk of sounding unbearably stupid, what is soda ash? Is this your
lingo for sodium carbonate (Na2CO3)? I have used sodium bicarbonate -the
common, cooking kind - in much the same way. Or are you talking about
something entirely different?...

Vera Rankovic
vrankovic@sezampro.yu
http://www.geocities.com/verasart/
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Campana
To:
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 15:04
Subject: Re: ???Soda wash will stick


> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Anji,
>
> Pads, also called wads or cookies, can be easily made. Simply take about
3
> and a half scoops of Kaolin and 3 scoops of alumina hydrate, mix in with
> some water until it is a soft plastic consistancy. The high amount of
> alumina with resist the soda, and fall right off the pot after firing,
also
> leaving nice decorative circles where the flashing did not occur. To
apply
> these to the bottom of the pots, take three or four small balls and glue
> them to the bottom of your pot with elmer's glue. Then turn it right side
> up, and press lightly to level the pot and flatten the wads. I've also
> seen these wads pre-cut from coils and bisqued, and set on the kiln shelf
> under the pots, or hot-glued on. This is common and required practice for
> salt firing, and the effect of the soda ash is somewhat like a saltglaze.
>
> Question: My professor told me that the soluble soda ash will leach into
> the clay body and flux it, causing slumping on fragile forms like wide
> bowls and plattes with ring feet. Any experiences of slumping with the
> soda wash?
>
> Anji Henderson wrote:
>
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > In reading this it reminds me of something once told
> > with in my ear shot........ "you can not stilt HF"...
> > Is this so??? And what are pads???
> > Just wondering..
> > Anji
> >
> > --- Lynne Antone wrote:
> > > ----------------------------Original
> > > message----------------------------
> > > In a message dated 10/26/1999 8:35:50 AM Pacific
> > > Daylight Time,
> > > millie@bcpl.net writes:
> > >
> > > << at the risk of exposing my ignorance. Can you
> > > dip a pot into the soda
> > > solution? and does it have to be wiped off the
> > > bottom in order to avoid
> > > sticking to the shelf.? >>
> > >
> > > Cheryl,
> > >
> > > As I recall the instructions from Dannon (we'll see
> > > if I was a good student),
> > > you can get the soda ash wash on the bottom of the
> > > pot, but need to put down
> > > pads to keep it from sticking to the shelf. I always
> > > applied the wash to very
> > > textured areas, so it was too difficult to wash them
> > > up completely. I waxed
> > > some first and tried the pads with others. Both ways
> > > work fine.
> > >
> > > I think it's best to paint the wash on, sometimes
> > > just one coat will give you
> > > enough shine. And whatever you don't use of the
> > > wash, if left sitting for
> > > very long, will separate out into crystals. I just
> > > carefully reheat it in the
> > > microwave just until melted again, trying not to
> > > boil the wash. I have never
> > > mixed up more than 1/2 cup at a time.
> > >
> > > Lynne Antone
> > > Olympia WA
> > >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com