Rosie Barris on sun 14 nov 99
Hi,
I'm toying with an idea of taking a thin strip of copper wiring and wrapping
it around a pot with low fire glaze on it and firing it to an 04. Will it
work? If not, do you have any suggestions on what will work?
Rosie
The Brinks on mon 15 nov 99
Rosie...I suggest you try it on a plate first, so you can see how it acts.
I shaped very thin wire into a design and laid it on the surface of a
plate, and it made green lines. I think if you did it on a pot, as the
wire melted, bits would fall off to the kiln shelf below. Just a little
warning.
Ann Brink in CA, enjoying all the definitions of brimstone. Sounds
hazardous to me :-).
At 08:26 PM 11/14/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi,
>
>I'm toying with an idea of taking a thin strip of copper wiring and wrapping
>it around a pot with low fire glaze on it and firing it to an 04. Will it
>work? If not, do you have any suggestions on what will work?
>
>Rosie
>
>
e-mail billann@impulse.net
ababy sharon on mon 15 nov 99
Hallo Rosie.
In raku with fine electric wires it does work.in 04 you might get Grey, like
when you have too much copper.Try to do it (at 04) above majolica glaze, the
tin, helps to create turquoise.
Ababi
----- Original Message -----
From: Rosie Barris
To:
Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 03:26
Subject: Re: copper wiring
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi,
>
> I'm toying with an idea of taking a thin strip of copper wiring and
wrapping
> it around a pot with low fire glaze on it and firing it to an 04. Will it
> work? If not, do you have any suggestions on what will work?
>
> Rosie
>
Richard Jeffery on mon 15 nov 99
Rosie
I shared an exhibition space in September with a local potter, Helen Knutt,
who added copper wire to her raku pieces - very successful in adding
texture, but not so much flashing as I expected. The wire was typically
coiled loosely, then laid flat on the surface of the pot, or lid. Couldn't
tell if she stuck the ends into the clay. She was using only a white raku
glaze - matures about 1000C.
'Fraid I can't ask her for details - she was in a bad car crash just before
the show - been in a coma since.
Richard
Bournemouth UK - on the south coast where I'm still picking figs - no frost
yet...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
> Of Rosie Barris
> Sent: 15 November 1999 01:27
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Re: copper wiring
>
>
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> Hi,
>
> I'm toying with an idea of taking a thin strip of copper
> wiring and wrapping
> it around a pot with low fire glaze on it and firing it to an
> 04. Will it
> work? If not, do you have any suggestions on what will work?
>
> Rosie
>
Rudy Bauer on tue 16 nov 99
I've never low fired copper wire over glazes but I have fired thin copper
wire over porcelin to cone 6 and got beautiful greens and blues where the
melting occurred. I'd be interested in what you learn as you experiment.At
08:26 PM 11/14/99 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi,
>
>I'm toying with an idea of taking a thin strip of copper wiring and wrapping
>it around a pot with low fire glaze on it and firing it to an 04. Will it
>work? If not, do you have any suggestions on what will work?
>
>Rosie
>
Jerry Cash on tue 16 nov 99
Rosie,
You will get the effects of copper saturation; the site of the wire will be
black, maybe even burning into the clay if the copper is wide, with greens at
the edge, and running down. I'd suggest starting with fine copper wire and going
progressively larger according to your taste.
Jerry Cash
Rosie Barris wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi,
>
> I'm toying with an idea of taking a thin strip of copper wiring and wrapping
> it around a pot with low fire glaze on it and firing it to an 04. Will it
> work? If not, do you have any suggestions on what will work?
>
> Rosie
Louise Jenks on tue 16 nov 99
In a message dated 11/14/1999 8:28:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
MBarris711@aol.com writes:
<< --------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hi,
I'm toying with an idea of taking a thin strip of copper wiring and wrapping
it around a pot with low fire glaze on it and firing it to an 04. Will it
work? If not, do you have any suggestions on what will work?
Rosie
>>
I have tried hooking SMALL pieces of copper wire over the rim of glazed
vases and fired them to ^6. It turns black and RUNS but looks wonderful.
Louise Jenks
Cincinnati OH USA
LJTCW@AOL.COM
candace vosburg on tue 16 nov 99
hi candace here,
i have tried the very thing with copper wire and a raku glaze and got copper
flashing around the wire, although the wire itself sort of corrodes in the
firing. (maybe i wasn't using pure copper wire) Though i would expect in low
fire oxidation it would color the glaze aroung it green.
try it
candy
>From: Rosie Barris
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Re: copper wiring
>Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 20:26:51 EST
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi,
>
>I'm toying with an idea of taking a thin strip of copper wiring and
>wrapping
>it around a pot with low fire glaze on it and firing it to an 04. Will it
>work? If not, do you have any suggestions on what will work?
>
>Rosie
>
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
marc mancuso on wed 17 nov 99
Hi folks,
A teacher I know experiments a good bit with copper wire in the glazing
process. Wrap around bisque, then apply glaze. Or glaze first, then wrap.
Other posts have beat me to a number of the suggestions of wrapping or
otherwise ensuring contact between the wire and the melting surface.
You might also experiment when pots are still pliable. We've been pushing
short lengths of thin wire through the soft-to-leatherhard wall of pots,
leaving some wire exposed inside and out. Sometimes we snip the lengths
more or less flush with the wall, sometimes not. Pull the wire, letting the
clay dent or snag or tear.... I might do some fairly elaborate "stiching",
letting the wire make its own marks in the clay first, burning away to
affect the glaze later. Opens lots of experiments.
Cu later,
Marc
Marc Mancuso
Senior Staff Assistant
Publishing Services Bureau
email: mmancuso@mit.edu
phone: 617.258.9380
fax: 617.258.9390
NakedClay@aol.com on thu 18 nov 99
Hello fellow copper melt fans!
I have used copper wire on my wares, too. I fire to cone 6. My method of
choice is to add the copper wire to greenware, then bisque-fire to cone 06.
Then, I add glazes to the ware, and fire as usual. This helps contain the
running that may occur with copper wire. As usual, I suggest using lots of
kiln shelf wash when melting copper wire on your wares.
I use different guages (daimeter measure) of wire, too. The measurement used
for wire is "AWG," which stands for "Average Wire Guage." The higher the AWG
number, the "thinner" the wire, and likewise, the lower the number, the
thicker the wire is. Typical lamp cord wire is 18 AWG. Wire used for stoves,
kilns, and other high-load electrical appliances might be 8 or even 6 AWG. I
find that small strands (AWG 20-24) of copper wire melts quicker at lower
temperatures, by virtue of its thin-ness. Thicker wire may require more heat.
I have also cut small bits of thicker (14 AWG) copper wire with a wire
"nippers," and added the wire into a glaze, stirring the mixture well. The
wire then becomes "married" to a glaze. Caveat: the wire will seek refuge on
the bottom of the pail. I suggest stirring often, and brushing the altered
glaze onto the ware. The glaze itself will often "hold" the wire bits in
place, but be careful when loading your wares into the kiln.
A couple more cautions: Be sure to check the kiln for loose wire bits, before
turning the kiln on (in electric kilns). Copper is a conductive metal, and
may short-circuit exposed wiring in the kiln, and the elements. Copper "melt"
is difficult to remove from kiln shelves and kiln bricks.
Best wishes!
Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
Yucca Valley is becoming a bit cooler at night. Can't wait to see the meteor
shower this evening!
Barney Adams on thu 18 nov 99
I've taken the very thin copper wire from a small motor winding or the
winding from the deflection circuit from an old crt (read picture tube) and
buched it up in a loose ball inside a bowl. The copper melts onto the bottom
of the bowl making a pattern.
Barney
marc mancuso wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi folks,
> A teacher I know experiments a good bit with copper wire in the glazing
> process. Wrap around bisque, then apply glaze. Or glaze first, then wrap.
> Other posts have beat me to a number of the suggestions of wrapping or
> otherwise ensuring contact between the wire and the melting surface.
>
> You might also experiment when pots are still pliable. We've been pushing
> short lengths of thin wire through the soft-to-leatherhard wall of pots,
> leaving some wire exposed inside and out. Sometimes we snip the lengths
> more or less flush with the wall, sometimes not. Pull the wire, letting the
> clay dent or snag or tear.... I might do some fairly elaborate "stiching",
> letting the wire make its own marks in the clay first, burning away to
> affect the glaze later. Opens lots of experiments.
>
> Cu later,
> Marc
>
> Marc Mancuso
> Senior Staff Assistant
> Publishing Services Bureau
> email: mmancuso@mit.edu
> phone: 617.258.9380
> fax: 617.258.9390
Steve Yahn on thu 18 nov 99
Hi Clayarters
There is another wire which might be of interest. MONEL. It is 90% nickel
and 10% copper. It is used often to safty wire nuts and bolts.
Cheers,Steve Yahn
At 10:16 AM 11/17/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi folks,
>A teacher I know experiments a good bit with copper wire in the glazing
>process. Wrap around bisque, then apply glaze. Or glaze first, then wrap.
>Other posts have beat me to a number of the suggestions of wrapping or
>otherwise ensuring contact between the wire and the melting surface.
>
>You might also experiment when pots are still pliable. We've been pushing
>short lengths of thin wire through the soft-to-leatherhard wall of pots,
>leaving some wire exposed inside and out. Sometimes we snip the lengths
>more or less flush with the wall, sometimes not. Pull the wire, letting the
>clay dent or snag or tear.... I might do some fairly elaborate "stiching",
>letting the wire make its own marks in the clay first, burning away to
>affect the glaze later. Opens lots of experiments.
>
>Cu later,
>Marc
>
>Marc Mancuso
>Senior Staff Assistant
>Publishing Services Bureau
>email: mmancuso@mit.edu
>phone: 617.258.9380
>fax: 617.258.9390
>
>
ababy sharon on fri 19 nov 99
There is another nice material, you can call it "Keys Powder", from were
they prepare
brass keys. It is beautifull in raku when you spread it above white glaze.It
stays in it's place or moving down and makes nice copper spots in the
reduction.
Ababi
clennell on fri 19 nov 99
We live in an area with lots of Dutch people. Many nurseries and
greenhouses, orchards etc. Because Holland has basically been reclaimed
from the sea the Dutch people are very frugal and conscious of waste. Word
around here that two Dutch men invented "copper wire". they were trying to
stretch a penny.
cheers,
Tony
Tony and Sheila Clennell
Sour Cherry Pottery
4545 King St.
Beamsville, On. L0R 1B1
http://www.sourcherrypottery.com
e-mail:clennell@bestnet.org
905-563-9382
fax 905-563-9383
Martin Howard on sat 20 nov 99
Word around here that two Dutch men invented "copper wire". they were trying
to
stretch a penny.
Sorry friends, that just ain't so. That was two Scotsmen, according to us
English. The Dutch don't have pennies, QED.
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road
Great Saling
BRAINTREE
Essex CM7 5DZ
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
tgschs10 on sat 20 nov 99
Some years ago a machinist gave me a whole bucket of copper filings. I've
used some sparingly and have gotten some nice results - greens in oxidation
^6 and some red in reduction ^10
Tom Sawyer
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Yahn
To:
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 1999 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: copper wiring
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Clayarters
> There is another wire which might be of interest. MONEL. It is 90% nickel
> and 10% copper. It is used often to safty wire nuts and bolts.
>
> Cheers,Steve Yahn
>
>
> At 10:16 AM 11/17/99 EST, you wrote:
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Hi folks,
> >A teacher I know experiments a good bit with copper wire in the glazing
> >process. Wrap around bisque, then apply glaze. Or glaze first, then wrap.
> >Other posts have beat me to a number of the suggestions of wrapping or
> >otherwise ensuring contact between the wire and the melting surface.
> >
> >You might also experiment when pots are still pliable. We've been pushing
> >short lengths of thin wire through the soft-to-leatherhard wall of pots,
> >leaving some wire exposed inside and out. Sometimes we snip the lengths
> >more or less flush with the wall, sometimes not. Pull the wire, letting
the
> >clay dent or snag or tear.... I might do some fairly elaborate
"stiching",
> >letting the wire make its own marks in the clay first, burning away to
> >affect the glaze later. Opens lots of experiments.
> >
> >Cu later,
> >Marc
> >
> >Marc Mancuso
> >Senior Staff Assistant
> >Publishing Services Bureau
> >email: mmancuso@mit.edu
> >phone: 617.258.9380
> >fax: 617.258.9390
> >
> >
>
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