Jean Lutz on fri 19 nov 99
I'm using Laguna's Cone 5 glazes on their Cone 5 B mix. (yes, I know I
should mix my own glazes but I have a VERY small studio and don't have room
to store chemicals.-maybe someday) Out of about a dozen I've tested only 3
are close to being acceptable. The transparent ones are watery and show
every drip, brush stroke or dipping line. The opaque ones also show drips
and overlaps. I've tried reglazing but without success. I fired the last
load to cone 6 but that didn't seem to help. Is there anything I can do so
that the pieces don't look like a deranged 3 year old did them? I'm tired
of creating so much scrap.
I've added Mason stain to the clear with some acceptable results and will
continue experimenting with that technique. They are very powdery though
and difficult to apply.
Also, I can't find a term for the "blend" that occurs where some glazes
meet and create a new color or effect. How can I get that to happen with
these commercial glazes? The edges remain defined when I use more than one
glaze.
Jean Lutz
jlutz@azlink.com
Scottsdale, AZ
Lynch, Tim on sat 20 nov 99
------------------
Please let me dispell the MYTH that you have to mix your own glazes, as if =
you
don't you can't really be a potter. This is a MYTH, a FALLACY, a DELUSION. =
If
one were to follow this reasoning, then you should also be digging your own =
clay
and building your own pug mills and mixers and...and...
I am extremely grateful to have my friends at Clay Art Center in Tacoma mix =
that
beautiful cone 6 turquoise glaze and save me the trouble. Yes, I mix my own
glazes and enjoy it (sometimes.) I also dug my own clay for far too long. I
appreciate the experience and would do it again if I had too but IMCO makes
such a nice clay and it does everything and comes in boxes...
So please don't apologize for buying premixed, commercial glazes. They are
consistent and save time and labor, not to mention someone else gets to =
breath
the dust.
Tim Lynch
On Friday, November 19, 1999, Jean Lutz =3Cjlutz=40azlink.com=3E wrote:
=3E----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3EI'm using Laguna's Cone 5 glazes on their Cone 5 B mix. (yes, I know I
=3Eshould mix my own glazes but I have a VERY small studio and don't have =
room
=3Eto store chemicals.-maybe someday)
--
Tim Lynch
The Clay Man
1117 Tedford St SE
East Wenatchee, WA 98802
509-884-8303
lynch.t=40mail1.wsd.wednet.edu
Cindy Strnad on sat 20 nov 99
Jean,
I'm sorry, but when you're working with commercial glazes, you're just stuck
with what they've sold you. You can alter the colors--you add those Mason
stains to a sample of the glaze and test different percentages until you get
a color you like. It doesn't take as much space as you might think to mix
your own glazes, but it does take time to learn what you like and how to
make a glaze you're better satisfied with than the commercial glazes. Check
out the educational part of this site, for a recipe for ^6 glaze that has
worked well for me. http://digitalfire.com You might also try a different
glaze manufacturer.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
Custer, SD
Gregory D Lamont on sat 20 nov 99
At 11:55 AM 11/19/99 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I'm using Laguna's Cone 5 glazes on their Cone 5 B mix. (yes, I know I
>should mix my own glazes but I have a VERY small studio and don't have room
>to store chemicals.-maybe someday) Out of about a dozen I've tested only 3
>are close to being acceptable. The transparent ones are watery and show
>every drip, brush stroke or dipping line. The opaque ones also show drips
>and overlaps. I've tried reglazing but without success. I fired the last
>load to cone 6 but that didn't seem to help. Is there anything I can do so
>that the pieces don't look like a deranged 3 year old did them? I'm tired
>of creating so much scrap.
>
>I've added Mason stain to the clear with some acceptable results and will
>continue experimenting with that technique. They are very powdery though
>and difficult to apply.
>
>Also, I can't find a term for the "blend" that occurs where some glazes
>meet and create a new color or effect. How can I get that to happen with
>these commercial glazes? The edges remain defined when I use more than one
>glaze.
>
>
>Jean Lutz
>jlutz@azlink.com
>Scottsdale, AZ
Hi Jean,
I have no experience with Laguna's cone 5 glazes, but I have been
experimenting with Minnesota Clay Co.'s cone 5-6 glazes and with Mid-South
Ceramic Supply's Opulence series and have had good-to-great results with
both when they are applied by dipping and/or pouring on my buff stoneware
clay body. My experience thus far with both shows that the extra binders
and deflocculents added to the glazes make them see unusually viscous in
the bucket--especially the Opulence glazes. My suggestions: be careful to
not thin these beyond what dry mix-to-water ratio the supplier
recommends. It is much easier to thin a too-thick glaze slurry than to
thicken one that is too thin. you don't say what bisque temperature you
fire to, but if you fire at cone 04, try firing a cone or two cooler to
increase the absorption rate of the clay body.
BTW, the usual disclaimers regarding my business relationship with both of
these suppliers applies.
Regards,
Greg
Greg
gdlamont@iastate.edu
http://www.ourwebpage.net/greglamont/
Mailing address:
Greg Lamont
3011 Northwood Drive
Ames, IA 50010-4750
(515) 233-3442
NakedClay@aol.com on mon 22 nov 99
Jean,
Do you stir the Laguna glazes well before applying to your wares? This is
quite important, especially with "wet" commercial glazes. Sometimes
commercial glazes sit on a store's shelf for a long time, settling the
contents well on the bottom of the glaze container.
When I use a commercial glaze, I usually stir the contents well, adding just
a little water if the contents are quite thick. Once stirred, I pour enough
glaze into a clean glass jelly jar. Then I thin the glaze in the jar with a
small amount of water.
The transfer of glaze into another container also helps me in another way. If
I make a boo-boo and accidentally place the brush I've used with one glaze
into the jar of another, I at least still have an un-contaminated source of
glaze.
I've had good results with cone 5-6 glazes made by Laguna, especially the
Moroccan Sand, Oasis Blue, and fair results with Emerald Green. Their yellow
glazes leave much to be desired, however.
I also buy glazes made by Leslie Ceramics, in Berkeley, CA. Leslie's Koke
Blue and Koke Green work well with darker clays. Koke Green is an almost
transparent glaze with copper green tint. Koke Blue is an opaque deep blue
glaze. Both Koke's are for cone 6 firing.
Leslie also sells dry glaze mixes in one or five-pound bags. Simply pour the
mix into a container, add water, and stir well. I've used their Iron Black
cone 10 glaze, which is a rick deep stony black. Jon's Clear is a shiny
transparent glaze, well-suited for coating over underglazed wares. It's a
versatile glaze, becoming transparent at cone 6, despite it's cone 10 rating.
Leslie Ceramics can be contacted at this phone number:
510/524-7363.
Best wishes!
Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
| |
|
