Veronica Honthaas on wed 1 dec 99
The last three firings of my downdraft kiln (natural gas) produced more
reduction on left side of the kiln than the right. The kiln has two venturi
type burners on each side and for most of the firing the fuel is wide open
and the primary air is open all the way. Therefore I am assuming that the
two sides would be acting the same. Does anyone out there have any
suggestions? Thanks, Veronica
John K Dellow on thu 2 dec 99
Try giving your burners a good cleaning. Scale or some other
obstruction may be in the burner tube. The jets may also be in
need of a clean. But !, don't use a piece of wire to clean , if
you haven't got the correct file take them to someone who has.
Veronica Honthaas wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> The last three firings of my downdraft kiln (natural gas) produced more
> reduction on left side of the kiln than the right. The kiln has two venturi
> type burners on each side and for most of the firing the fuel is wide open
> and the primary air is open all the way. Therefore I am assuming that the
> two sides would be acting the same. Does anyone out there have any
> suggestions? Thanks, Veronica
--
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
Home Page http://www.welcome.to/jkdellow
Hank Murrow on thu 2 dec 99
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>The last three firings of my downdraft kiln (natural gas) produced more
>reduction on left side of the kiln than the right. The kiln has two venturi
>type burners on each side and for most of the firing the fuel is wide open
>and the primary air is open all the way. Therefore I am assuming that the
>two sides would be acting the same. Does anyone out there have any
>suggestions? Thanks, Veronica
Dear Veronica; When I was teaching at Anderson Ranch, all the gas kilns
were located outside and exposed to pretty stiff winds. We usually got the
reduction effects on the downwind or lee side of the kiln. The side that
got the brunt of the wind was usually more oxidized. Does any of this apply
to your situation? Do you leave a door open? Hank in Eugene
Earl Brunner on thu 2 dec 99
How is the gas piped to the burners, does the one side get the gas through the
pipe after the otherside (causeing less gas pressure on the one side?)? My
Geil does that. The gas is piped to the burners on the right first and then to
the ones on the left. Some adjustment could be made with the primary air on one
side (the light reduction side) to balance it out maybe.
Veronica Honthaas wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> The last three firings of my downdraft kiln (natural gas) produced more
> reduction on left side of the kiln than the right. The kiln has two venturi
> type burners on each side and for most of the firing the fuel is wide open
> and the primary air is open all the way. Therefore I am assuming that the
> two sides would be acting the same. Does anyone out there have any
> suggestions? Thanks, Veronica
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Tom Wirt on thu 2 dec 99
Subject: firing question
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> The last three firings of my downdraft kiln (natural gas) produced more
> reduction on left side of the kiln than the right. The kiln has two
venturi
> type burners on each side and for most of the firing the fuel is wide open
> and the primary air is open all the way. Therefore I am assuming that the
> two sides would be acting the same. Does anyone out there have any
> suggestions? Thanks, Veronica
AHA! Veronica.....your kiln is the one that balances out our kiln. Ours
tends to reduce a bit more on the right side. ANd as we all know, each
individual kiln may be different, but when you average them all, everything
is in balance.
Tom WIrt :-)
Dave Finkelnburg on fri 3 dec 99
Veronica,
What is the arrangment of the gas pipe supplying your burners. Is one
side (possibly the one with more reduction) closer to the main gas line?
You may be getting more gas flow into that side. Just a thought.
Dave Finkelnburg
-----Original Message-----
From: Veronica Honthaas
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 1:13 PM
Subject: firing question
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
The last three firings of my downdraft kiln (natural gas) produced more
reduction on left side of the kiln than the right. The kiln has two venturi
type burners on each side and for most of the firing the fuel is wide open
and the primary air is open all the way. Therefore I am assuming that the
two sides would be acting the same. Does anyone out there have any
suggestions? Thanks, Veronica
Steve Dalton on fri 3 dec 99
I know I'm pulling ideas out of the air, but maybe you should check to see
if gunk, spiders or bugs may have crawled into the right side burner. You
could even be getting unequal fuel pressure to one of the sides....left side
too much or rightside not enough. Unequal stacking from side-to-side.
Inlet ports could be unequal in size. Something clogging the rightside
pipe. You could swap the burners from side to side.
----------
> From: Veronica Honthaas
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: firing question
> Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 15:12:36 EST
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>The last three firings of my downdraft kiln (natural gas) produced more
>reduction on left side of the kiln than the right. The kiln has two venturi
>type burners on each side and for most of the firing the fuel is wide open
>and the primary air is open all the way. Therefore I am assuming that the
>two sides would be acting the same. Does anyone out there have any
>suggestions? Thanks, Veronica
Vince Pitelka on fri 3 dec 99
>Try giving your burners a good cleaning. Scale or some other
>obstruction may be in the burner tube. The jets may also be in
>need of a clean. But !, don't use a piece of wire to clean , if
>you haven't got the correct file take them to someone who has.
John -
Sorry to be contrary here, but I must speak up and tell people to never use
any kind of file when cleaning the orifice on a gas burner. Orifices are
almost always made of brass, which is a fairly soft metal. A file is of
course an abrasive tool, and it will enlarge the orifice hole, which will
negatively affect burner performance. For very small orifice sizes, the
tip-cleaners made for oxy-acetylene welding tips work great. They are
essentially just strong, fine wire with bumps along the length. But they
are not abrasive. They just help to knock loose anything which might be
blocking the orifice. When using oxy-acetylene welding tips, occasionally
the tip gets so clogged that a special tip-drill is required to open it back
up. There is no chance that such a stubborn blockage would ever occur at
the orifice back inside a gas burner.
Any kind of smooth wire will work to clear out the orifice, but I would
discourage the use of a file or a drill-bit to clean the orifice on a gas
burner.
One of the most interesting orifice blockages in my part of the country is
from mud-dauber wasps, which will lay their eggs inside larger orifices and
completely seal them up with mud. Happens occasionally.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
John K Dellow on sun 5 dec 99
Correct vince ,
what you have described is what i use , my gas
fitter calls them a file !. Diffrent country diffrent termanology
:).
Vince Pitelka wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Try giving your burners a good cleaning. Scale or some other
> >obstruction may be in the burner tube. The jets may also be in
> >need of a clean. But !, don't use a piece of wire to clean , if
> >you haven't got the correct file take them to someone who has.
>
> John -
> Sorry to be contrary here, but I must speak up and tell people to never use
> any kind of file when cleaning the orifice on a gas burner. Orifices are
> almost always made of brass, which is a fairly soft metal. A file is of
> course an abrasive tool, and it will enlarge the orifice hole, which will
> negatively affect burner performance. For very small orifice sizes, the
> tip-cleaners made for oxy-acetylene welding tips work great. They are
> essentially just strong, fine wire with bumps along the length. But they
> are not abrasive. They just help to knock loose anything which might be
> blocking the orifice. When using oxy-acetylene welding tips, occasionally
> the tip gets so clogged that a special tip-drill is required to open it back
> up. There is no chance that such a stubborn blockage would ever occur at
> the orifice back inside a gas burner.
>
> Any kind of smooth wire will work to clear out the orifice, but I would
> discourage the use of a file or a drill-bit to clean the orifice on a gas
> burner.
>
> One of the most interesting orifice blockages in my part of the country is
> from mud-dauber wasps, which will lay their eggs inside larger orifices and
> completely seal them up with mud. Happens occasionally.
> Best wishes -
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Home - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
> 615/597-5376
> Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
> 615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
> Appalachian Center for Crafts
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
--
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
Home Page http://www.welcome.to/jkdellow
Burns Christina on mon 23 apr 01
Forgive me, in advance, if this is a dumb question! But. . . can dried
leafs be used in an open pit firing of bisque ware to supplement the
sawdust? If YES, supply me with more information. Thank you.
Claudia and Ray on mon 23 apr 01
You sure can use weeds to add to sawdust in pit firing. In fact, they
give you some very interesting shadows and shades of light and dark. I
use them all the time, and am glad to see that they really do have a use
after all.
I also use straw and fir branches...actually anything organic that grows
around the kiln. Experiment and enjoy!
Claudia
Lois on tue 2 mar 04
I fire a 40 cu foot downdraft gas kiln. Cone 10 reduction. I am having
problems getting the front to back even, top and bottom no problem.
What are the best things to try? (I know one at a time!)
Any ideas appreciated.
Thanks
Lois
--
Lois Sharpe
Ivor and Olive Lewis on wed 3 mar 04
Dear Lois,
Read Nils Lou's book. "The Art of Firing" ISBN 90-5703-18-25
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia
Ron Roy on thu 4 mar 04
Hi Lois,
The best advice I ever got was to direct flame to where you want it hotter.
For instance - if the back is hotter and that is where the flue exit is -
create a tunnel so more of the flame is drawn to the front before getting
into the flue - best would be an adjustable flue then can be opened
anywhere to draw more flame towards that area.
Target bricks can also be used to direct flame.
If I had some idea about where the cooler spots were perhaps I could be
more specific.
Soaking at the end of a firing does help as does how the shelves are stacked.
RR
>I fire a 40 cu foot downdraft gas kiln. Cone 10 reduction. I am having
>problems getting the front to back even, top and bottom no problem.
>What are the best things to try? (I know one at a time!)
>Any ideas appreciated.
>Thanks
>Lois
>
>--
>Lois Sharpe
>
>
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
Lois on thu 4 mar 04
HI Ron,
Thanks for your help.
Just unloaded a firing with my new digital pyrometer,... I have been
consistently getting under fired pots even when cone 10 was flat sometimes
with 11 flat the inside of bowls were still under fired. So I got a fluk=
e
52!
With the digital my back top was consistently 30degrees cooler than the
front top . Bottom front to back was even.
=20
I fired to 10 medium bend. Then tried the firing down everyone is talking
about....I cooled to 1850 then relit and fired for 2 hours between 1900 and
2000 degrees.
Everything was GREAT except the top back two shelves.
It is a downdraft 40 cuft burners in the back next to flue. Natural gas
power burners. I have no bag wall, but do have a one target brick 16
inches from the burners.
I moved it 1 inch closer to the burners for this firing,
My questions is would moving the target brick closer to burners help
deflect to top back?
How close is to close? Any other ideas?
By the way the glaze you redid for me "opal" is great! (when I don=B9t
under-fire it!)=20
Thanks again for your help
Lois
--=20
Lois Sharpe
On 3/4/04 10:29 AM, "Ron Roy" wrote:
> Hi Lois,
>=20
> The best advice I ever got was to direct flame to where you want it hotte=
r.
>=20
> For instance - if the back is hotter and that is where the flue exit is -
> create a tunnel so more of the flame is drawn to the front before getting
> into the flue - best would be an adjustable flue then can be opened
> anywhere to draw more flame towards that area.
>=20
> Target bricks can also be used to direct flame.
>=20
> If I had some idea about where the cooler spots were perhaps I could be
> more specific.
>=20
> Soaking at the end of a firing does help as does how the shelves are stac=
ked.
>=20
> RR
>=20
>=20
>=20
>> I fire a 40 cu foot downdraft gas kiln. Cone 10 reduction. I am having
>> problems getting the front to back even, top and bottom no problem.
>> What are the best things to try? (I know one at a time!)
>> Any ideas appreciated.
>> Thanks
>> Lois
>>=20
>> --
>> Lois Sharpe
>>=20
>>
>=20
> Ron Roy
> RR#4
> 15084 Little Lake Road
> Brighton, Ontario
> Canada
> K0K 1H0
> Phone: 613-475-9544
> Fax: 613-475-3513
>=20
> _________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>=20
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>=20
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
John Britt on thu 4 mar 04
Lois,
Another way to force heat to the top is increasing the bagwall height.
Hope it helps,
John Britt
George Nagel on tue 18 oct 05
How does increase in humidity impact kiln firing? In fair weather it appears I
was more able to have medium to heavy reduction and continue with temperature increase
up to 2400. Recently in rainy weather it seems like I have to give up reduction
to reach close to the same temperature. I'm using an Olympic updraft with propane
and also am wondering if this kiln was outfitted with higher rated burners I would
be able to compensate for the change.
Thanks for any assistance with this. George
Carole Fox on wed 11 jan 06
What if....
you are firing an electric kiln (Glaze fire) and an emergency happens (your
kid's sick and needs to be picked from school). The kiln is bright orange
and you think it might trip the sitter while you are gone and you want to be
there so you can finish the firing by the cones. Can you turn the power down
while you are out and then just turn it back up when you return? Will it
affect the ware like it was just a slow firing or would it have some other
more adverse effect?
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
silverfoxpottery@comcast.net
Craig Clark on wed 11 jan 06
Carole, in a word, yes. The thing to keep in mind is that the mature
glaze is the result of the amount of calorie of heat energy that has
been absorbed by the glaze and claybody. The cones are a means by which
to measure this work heat. The color of your atmosphere is indicating
what the ambient temp of the kiln is, nothing more. It does not tell you
anything about work heat.You will just need to be aware of how much you
will need to slow the climb of your kiln so that you don't inadverdantly
overfire even thought the temp of the kiln is lower due to a longer fireing.
One thing that I have done when I've come out to the shop late at
night to find that the kiln sitter is tripped and has already dropped a
few hundred degress is to turn the kiln back on and then fire it down
once it climbs back up to where the witness cones are bent and then to
fire down as I normally would. I've got an old Skutt 1027 without any
computer features and the kiln sitter trips before I've reached the
proper point in a firing so I'm realluy only using it as a safety feature.
The pots will turn out differently when I fire them differently but
there is nothing untowardly that occus.
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 St.
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
Carole Fox wrote:
> What if....
> you are firing an electric kiln (Glaze fire) and an emergency happens
> (your
> kid's sick and needs to be picked from school). The kiln is bright orange
> and you think it might trip the sitter while you are gone and you want
> to be
> there so you can finish the firing by the cones. Can you turn the
> power down
> while you are out and then just turn it back up when you return? Will it
> affect the ware like it was just a slow firing or would it have some
> other
> more adverse effect?
> Carole Fox
> Silver Fox Pottery
> Elkton, MD
> silverfoxpottery@comcast.net
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
William & Susan Schran User on thu 12 jan 06
On 1/11/06 8:26 AM, "Carole Fox" wrote:
> What if....
> you are firing an electric kiln (Glaze fire) and an emergency happens (your
> kid's sick and needs to be picked from school). The kiln is bright orange
> and you think it might trip the sitter while you are gone and you want to be
> there so you can finish the firing by the cones. Can you turn the power down
> while you are out and then just turn it back up when you return?
IMHO - If it's an emergency where I had to leave with no idea when I'd
return, I'd shut the kiln off. I'd check the progress of the firing when the
kiln was cool and re-fire if needed.
-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
Snail Scott on thu 12 jan 06
At 08:26 AM 1/11/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>What if....
>you are firing an electric kiln (Glaze fire) and an emergency happens (your
>kid's sick and needs to be picked from school). The kiln is bright orange
>and you think it might trip the sitter while you are gone and you want to be
>there so you can finish the firing by the cones. Can you turn the power down
>while you are out and then just turn it back up when you return?
Yep; this works just fine. It'll just slow down.
Most electric kilns can make bisque/earthenware
temperatures on a combo of medium and high settings,
but I don't believe that any will go even that
high on all 'medium'. Just crank it back into
high gear when you return; you may not notice any
difference at all. Changing the cooling speed
counts for a lot, but heating speed - not much,
especially oif the work's been bisqued already.
Likely it'll just be a better firing than usual!
;)
-Snail
Reynolds, Phil on wed 2 aug 06
I have a question about Bisque firing. I got a used Kiln from a friend =
and it
didn't come with a manual. It is a Cress Electric manual Kiln. I know =
how to
operate it but I am not sure what time I should set the timer to for a =
Bisque
fire. Any suggestions??
=20
=20
Phil Reynolds
http://reynolpe.googlepages.com =20
=20
=20
The information transmitted (including attachments) is
covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act,
18 U.S.C. 2510-2521, is intended only for the person(s) or
entity/entities to which it is addressed and may contain
confidential and/or privileged material. Any review,
retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking
of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons
or entities other than the intended recipient(s) is prohibited.
If you received this in error, please contact the sender and
delete the material from any computer.
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W J Seidl on wed 2 aug 06
Phil:
The manual only tells you how to operate the kiln, not how to do any =
actual
work with it.
Set the timer for enough time for the work to reach whatever cone it is =
to
which you bisque. If you have a kiln sitter, you put a cone in it as =
well.
Use cones in the kiln next to the work to determine when the work is =
done,
then shut it off. If you recorded when you started firing and when you =
shut
it off, or the kiln sitter did, THAT amount of time will be the time you =
set
it for next time, plus "a little bit more" to be sure. The cone in the =
kiln
sitter is the watchdog.
If you are not sure to which cone to bisque, the archives are loaded =
with
examples. It depends on your clay, what you will do with it once it is
bisqued, atmospheric conditions, etc. I think someone once mentioned the
phase of the moon figured in there somehow, as well.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Reynolds, =
Phil
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 5:46 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Firing Question
I have a question about Bisque firing. I got a used Kiln from a friend =
and
it
didn't come with a manual. It is a Cress Electric manual Kiln. I know =
how
to
operate it but I am not sure what time I should set the timer to for a
Bisque
fire. Any suggestions??
=20
=20
Phil Reynolds
http://reynolpe.googlepages.com =20
Snail Scott on wed 2 aug 06
At 04:46 PM 8/2/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>...I am not sure what time I should set the timer to for a Bisque
>fire. Any suggestions??
For the first firing in an unknown kiln,
crank the timer all the way around, and
babysit that critter until it shuts down.
Use witness cones to supplement the
kiln sitter. Never rely on a kiln sitter
to turn off a new (or new-to-you) kiln.
Check the clock when it hits temperature,
and turn it off manually. In the future,
set the timer for about 1/2 hour to 1 hour
over what you timed that first firing at.
It's always more accurate to shut down
manually based on witness cone readings,
but most people aren't that fussy about
bisque firings. It's more critical for
glaze firings.
Anyone can suggest how long a bisque should
take, but the type of kiln, age of the
elements, intended temperature of the
bisque, speed of heat increases, amount of
clay in the kiln, and quantity of shelves
and posts: all these things will affect the
time a firing takes. Someone else's estimate
is not necessarily valid for your firings.
After your first firing, though, you've got
a ballpark notion of how long a bisque will
take in YOUR kiln, using your firing
schedule, with your type of work in it, etc.
Now it is possible to use the timer for its
intended failsafe purpose, but I'd still
try to be around to make sure it shuts off
as intended, (especially at first) and also
after any repair or adjustment. Kiln
sitters and timers are very reliable, but
no mechanical system is perfect.
Good luck!
-Snail
Deborah Thuman on thu 4 feb 10
I'm going to be bisquing my ^6 pieces in electric and glaze firing in
a fully manual gas kiln. I want to use commercial underglazes with
clear glaze over the underglaze on a piece. I can't see firing the gas
kiln for a half dozen test tiles. But... I want to know what these
underglazes are going to look like. If I do my test tiles in an
electric kiln, will the results I get be close to what I will get on
the piece fired in the gas kiln? I may or may not do a little
reduction with the glaze firing.
Or.. to make things simpler... for those of you who fire with gas, how
do you fire your test tiles?
Deb Thuman
http://debthumansblog.blogspot.com/
http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=3D5888059
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Deb-Thumans-Art-Page/167529715986
David Woof on fri 5 feb 10
Deb=3D2C=3D20
the most efficient use of testing space is to have testing be an ongoing pr=
=3D
ogram with each firing. The tiles then take up spaces otherwise unused. =
=3D20
Testing reduction glazes in an oxi firing usually only determines that you =
=3D
are in the right range for glaze maturation. The exception being that iron =
=3D
and other materials may become fluxes in a reduction atmosphere. Also your =
=3D
color response can be dramatically different. =3D20
Your oxy gas firing is not exaxtly the same as oxy electric because you are=
=3D
burning a hydrocarbon fuel.
=3D20
Testing is more difficult for studio potters doing one of a kind artsy piec=
=3D
es than for folks in a production mode. However I have seen and experience=
=3D
d that the more pieces one makes the better articulated your ideas become e=
=3D
ven when some of the pieces are simply repetitive practice of your craft. =
=3D
This is what someone was pointing to when it was recently said that the rac=
=3D
ers come as a result of doing the work. (was that you Dannon?)
=3D20
May I suggest turning a batch of useful mugs and bowls=3D2C use a trusted l=
in=3D
er=3D2C try your new test glazes and if they don't turn out as hoped for=3D=
2C r=3D
efire them with the "Salvation" overglaze in subsequent firings. Ponder th=
=3D
e benevolent unfairness of the universe=3D2C from human perspectives=3D2C a=
s yo=3D
u drink and eat from them while awaiting future hopeful kiln openings.
=3D20
=3D20
If one is conscious and thoughtful about the work when designing and analyz=
=3D
ing=3D2C and full of a spirit of playful=3D2C joyful abandon while doing th=
e wo=3D
rk=3D3B one sets up a condition where art can happen. However "Loose" only=
p=3D
roduces good work when one has done the homework and the footwork. Otherwis=
=3D
e Loose is simply Sloppy.
=3D20
David Woof cLARKDALE=3D2C aRIZONA
=3D20
________________________________________________________________________
4a. Firing question
Posted by: "Deborah Thuman" debthuman@ZIANET.COM=3D20
Date: Thu Feb 4=3D2C 2010 3:18 pm ((PST))
=3D20
I'm going to be bisquing my ^6 pieces in electric and glaze firing in
a fully manual gas kiln. I want to use commercial underglazes with
clear glaze over the underglaze on a piece. I can't see firing the gas
kiln for a half dozen test tiles. But... I want to know what these
underglazes are going to look like. If I do my test tiles in an
electric kiln=3D2C will the results I get be close to what I will get on
the piece fired in the gas kiln? I may or may not do a little
reduction with the glaze firing.
=3D20
Or.. to make things simpler... for those of you who fire with gas=3D2C how
do you fire your test tiles?
=3D20
Deb Thuman
http://debthumansblog.blogspot.com/
http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=3D3D5888059
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Deb-Thumans-Art-Page/167529715986
=3D20
=3D20
=3D20
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/=3D
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