Chris Schafale on thu 2 dec 99
I'm looking for a green glaze that doesn't contain copper or chrome.
I've heard of the possibility that rutile plus cobalt could make a
green, and even found a recipe in the archives, but it's for cone
9-10. I'm going to play with this one, but was wondering if anyone
out there has had success with a rutile/cobalt green at cone 6 ox?
Chris
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, NC
candle@intrex.net
Paul Lewing on fri 3 dec 99
Hi, Chris.
I've gotten green from cobalt and rutile together. Neither of them is
particularly affected by reduction, so it stands to reason that it would
work. I don't remember what base I tried it in, probably one of the
everyday standard bases that I use all the time. I don't remember it
being a particularly long series of tests, so I'd say just start trying
your regular bases with the same proportions of cobalt and rutile that
were in the cone ten version.
You might also try nickel oxide. Most of the books I've seen say that
nickel will give you a grey or brown color, but I've found that it makes
a sort of yelowish split-pea green in a lot of different bases,
particularly magnesia ones.
Happy testing.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Earl Brunner on fri 3 dec 99
You can get greens from cobalt. The following cone 10 base will give greens
from cobalt. It is from my glaze book of 20 years ago and has rather more
Barium in it than I would like today. As I remember it was a soft barium
matt.
Dianes White
P spar 50
barium carb 20
Epk 10
Whiting 8
Titanium Dioxide 12
Understanding the chemistry of why it goes green would form the basis for
adjusting it to cone 6 or developing a cone 6 glaze that will do
similarily. Perhaps a guru could step in here and fill us in.
Chris Schafale wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I'm looking for a green glaze that doesn't contain copper or chrome.
> I've heard of the possibility that rutile plus cobalt could make a
> green, and even found a recipe in the archives, but it's for cone
> 9-10. I'm going to play with this one, but was wondering if anyone
> out there has had success with a rutile/cobalt green at cone 6 ox?
>
> Chris
> Light One Candle Pottery
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
> candle@intrex.net
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Jim Brooks on fri 3 dec 99
Chris.. I think that the green color comes from the titanium oxide (in the
rutile) and cobalt. If you have around 6% titanium you can get a green
from cobalt. It is more of an olive green as opposed to an emerald/forrest
green. It is possible to get this color at cone 6 . Check your blue glazes
and find one with high titanium .. and test,. maybe run with less cobalt
than is called for.....
Hank Murrow on fri 3 dec 99
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I'm looking for a green glaze that doesn't contain copper or chrome.
>I've heard of the possibility that rutile plus cobalt could make a
>green, and even found a recipe in the archives, but it's for cone
>9-10. I'm going to play with this one, but was wondering if anyone
>out there has had success with a rutile/cobalt green at cone 6 ox?
>
>Chris
>Light One Candle Pottery
>Fuquay-Varina, NC
>candle@intrex.net
Dear Cris; Reitz came up with this attached glaze originally as a shino;
but additions of Rutile and Cobalt turned it green. Hope you have luck
getting it at C/5.
Hank in Eugene
Chris Schafale on sat 4 dec 99
Any idea how much cobalt one would use with this? And what
shade of green -- I'm looking for a blue-green rather than a
yellow green.
Looks like the key may be the 12% titanium, though
perhaps the barium modifies the shade as well.
Chris
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> You can get greens from cobalt. The following cone 10 base will give greens
> from cobalt. It is from my glaze book of 20 years ago and has rather more
> Barium in it than I would like today. As I remember it was a soft barium
> matt.
> Dianes White
> P spar 50
> barium carb 20
> Epk 10
> Whiting 8
> Titanium Dioxide 12
> Understanding the chemistry of why it goes green would form the basis for
> adjusting it to cone 6 or developing a cone 6 glaze that will do
> similarily. Perhaps a guru could step in here and fill us in.
>
> Chris Schafale wrote:
>
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > I'm looking for a green glaze that doesn't contain copper or chrome.
> > I've heard of the possibility that rutile plus cobalt could make a
> > green, and even found a recipe in the archives, but it's for cone
> > 9-10. I'm going to play with this one, but was wondering if anyone
> > out there has had success with a rutile/cobalt green at cone 6 ox?
> >
> > Chris
> > Light One Candle Pottery
> > Fuquay-Varina, NC
> > candle@intrex.net
>
> --
> Earl Brunner
> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
> mailto:bruec@anv.net
>
>
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, NC
candle@intrex.net
Hank Murrow on sun 5 dec 99
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I'm looking for a green glaze that doesn't contain copper or chrome.
>I've heard of the possibility that rutile plus cobalt could make a
>green, and even found a recipe in the archives, but it's for cone
>9-10. I'm going to play with this one, but was wondering if anyone
>out there has had success with a rutile/cobalt green at cone 6 ox?
>
>Chris
>Light One Candle Pottery
>Fuquay-Varina, NC
>candle@intrex.net
Dear Cris; Reitz came up with this attached glaze originally as a shino;
but additions of Rutile and Cobalt turned it green. Hope you have luck
getting it at C/5.
Hank in Eugene
"Sorry Everybody; I didn't know that Clayart doesn't send attachments. Here
is the Reitz glaze in text:"
Glaze name: PLAID
Cone: 10
Color: Blue to Charcoal to Moss Green
Testing: Tested
Surface texture: Semi-Matte or Satin
Firing: Ox. or Red.
Glaze type:
Recipe: Percent
Nepheline Syenite 70
Petalite 15
Whiting 5
Gerstley Borate 2
Grolleg Kaolin 8
Totals: 100.00 % 20.00 Lb
Also add:
Cobalt Carbonate 1
Rutile 2
Comments:
Reitz to Pinnell to Robinson to Hank. Originally a Shino, this version is a
smooooth semi-matt glaze which shows clear to blue to charcoal to moss
green as it goes from thin to thick. Must have a low Ti body and clay,
But........ Has shown a very intense cerulean blue on edges, don't know
why.
Unity Formula for PLAID:
0.149 K2O 0.872 Al2O3 3.975 SiO2
0.465 Na2O 0.034 B2O3 0.000 TiO2
0.282 CaO 0.003 Fe2O3 0.000 F
0.016 MgO 4.6:1 Si:Al Ratio
0.088 Li2O
Percentage Analysis for PLAID:
60.84 % SiO2
22.65 % Al2O3
0.60 % B2O3
3.58 % K2O
7.34 % Na2O
4.03 % CaO
0.16 % MgO
0.67 % Li2O
0.12 % Fe2O3
Don Goodrich on sun 5 dec 99
Hi Chris,
Just realized I have a contribution to this topic. As some of you know, I
make saucer-shaped wall sconces with a layer of crushed glass melted in the
center. Recently, when after a cone 6 electric firing some undesirable
bubbles remained in the glass, I put the piece back in the kiln for a cone 04
bisque to remelt the glass and smooth it out.
The glaze covering the rest of the piece was Chappel's Floating Blue,
which has 4 percent rutile. It had been its usual mottled cobalt blue after
^6, but after the ^04 firing it's a sort of shiny olive green. Character
similar to what one normally sees in FB, except for the color. In fact, it
looks very much like a ^9 gas-fired celedon I made several years ago.
So, one rutile green is Floating Blue refired to 04 in oxidation. Anyone
want to explain why this works, and why if refired to ^6 it'll regain the
rich blue?
Don Goodrich in foggy Zion, Illinois
goodrichdn@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/goodrichdn/
topfer on sun 5 dec 99
I believe that Tichane reported that titanium in an iron bearing glaze can
produce greens. I have observed this with a rutile glaze over temnoku. The green
is more like moss green, not even close to fir green or chrome green.
Chris
Jim Brooks wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Chris.. I think that the green color comes from the titanium oxide (in the
> rutile) and cobalt. If you have around 6% titanium you can get a green
> from cobalt. It is more of an olive green as opposed to an emerald/forrest
> green. It is possible to get this color at cone 6 . Check your blue glazes
> and find one with high titanium .. and test,. maybe run with less cobalt
> than is called for.....
Tasha Olive on mon 6 dec 99
No I don't have the answer but what I would like to know is if you would be
so gracious as to post your recipe of Chappell's Floating Blue. I have a
recipe for a floating blue and have never gotten good results AT ALL. Yours
sounds lovely and I would love to compare them then try it if it is
different in composition from mine. It would be much appreciated. Tasha
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Goodrich
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Sunday, December 05, 1999 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: rutile green?
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi Chris,
> Just realized I have a contribution to this topic. As some of you know,
I
>make saucer-shaped wall sconces with a layer of crushed glass melted in the
>center. Recently, when after a cone 6 electric firing some undesirable
>bubbles remained in the glass, I put the piece back in the kiln for a cone
04
>bisque to remelt the glass and smooth it out.
> The glaze covering the rest of the piece was Chappel's Floating Blue,
>which has 4 percent rutile. It had been its usual mottled cobalt blue after
>^6, but after the ^04 firing it's a sort of shiny olive green. Character
>similar to what one normally sees in FB, except for the color. In fact, it
>looks very much like a ^9 gas-fired celedon I made several years ago.
> So, one rutile green is Floating Blue refired to 04 in oxidation. Anyone
>want to explain why this works, and why if refired to ^6 it'll regain the
>rich blue?
>
>Don Goodrich in foggy Zion, Illinois
>goodrichdn@aol.com
>http://members.aol.com/goodrichdn/
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