Dave Finkelnburg on sun 12 dec 99
Hi all,
If you have experience making bases for electric lamps, I have a couple
simple questions.
I have a commission to do some, and haven't done this before. I am
curious about which method gives you adequate stability for the light/shade,
and also which gives you good vertical alignment of the light without having
to fuss around.
It appears to me I can either:
--run the hollow all-thread up through the entire lamp, which means
I need to make a hole in the bottom centered below the top opening, and a
depression in the base deep enoug to hold a lock nut and to let the wire
come out and go off to the side
--cut an opening in the lamp base large enough to reach up into and
use a threaded metal bar on the hollow all-thread which would be pulled up
against the upper inside part of the lamp base. Using this method I could
run the wire out through a small hole in the side at the base of the lamp,
or put it in a groove out the base.
In either case it also looks like I need to use felt, or cork or
something else to cover the lamp base.
Any preferences, recommendations, suggestions, cautions on this? I
have read through the archives and found the excellent advice on proper
wiring, safety considerations. Things I didn't know. Sure appreciate that
resource!
Thanks in advance for any help! Happy Holidays!
Dave Finkelnburg in southern Idaho where it's trying to be winter
and the snow is staying on the ground
dfinkeln@cyberhighway.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Bruch
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 6:56 AM
Subject: Mask cartidges
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>My replacement cartridge says " dusts, fumes, mists having a weighted
average
>less than 0.05MG per cubic meter." Is this sufficient for glaze and clay
>mixing and plaster dust, or do I need better protection?
>
>Bob Bruch
>
Jennifer Boyer on mon 13 dec 99
Hi Dave,
All you need is a vase shape pot with an opening about 2-3
inches wide. Put a 1/2 inch hole on the side near the bottom for
the wire.
To wire the lamp, you need a 3 part socket, a harp, a lock
washer, a vase cap, a slip(rather than threaded) brass neck, a 4
inch threaded (pipe) nipple, a 4 inch cross bar(has a hole
through which you thread the nipple) and a wire set, which is a
wire with the plug molded in.
First, you thread the wire up through the hole near the bottom
and pull it through the top opening. Take the cross bar, thread
string through the two slots beside the center hole and drop the
cross bar into the vase(after threading the wire through it and
leaving a good amount sticking out the top end) while holding
onto the ends of the string. Pull on the string so as to bring
the ends of the crossbar tight to the inside shoulder of the
vase. Now while holding the string tight, you can screw the
nipple into the hole in the cross bar. Then pull off the string.
Place the vase cap onto the nipple followed by the neck, lock
washer and harp bottom. Then screw on the bottom of the socket,
screwing tight to place tension on all this stuff. The end of
the wire will be sticking up through all this in the nipple. You
then wire on the guts of the socket, making sure you wire the
half with the lines in the plastic to the brass screw(hot) and
making a half a square knot in the two halves and pulling it
tight right under the socket. Then slip on the socket cover and
you're done......I've been doing this very thing all evening so
it's fresh in my mind.
Best to look at a lamp parts catalogue for these parts. Rod and
cross bar are 1/8 IP threading.
Let me know if this is all clear as mug>>>>
Jennifer in snow country
Dave Finkelnburg wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi all,
> If you have experience making bases for electric lamps, I have a couple
> simple questions.
> I have a commission to do some, and haven't done this before. I am
> curious about which method gives you adequate stability for the light/shade,
> and also which gives you good vertical alignment of the light without having
> to fuss around.
> It appears to me I can either:
> --run the hollow all-thread up through the entire lamp, which means
> I need to make a hole in the bottom centered below the top opening, and a
> depression in the base deep enoug to hold a lock nut and to let the wire
> come out and go off to the side
> --cut an opening in the lamp base large enough to reach up into and
> use a threaded metal bar on the hollow all-thread which would be pulled up
> against the upper inside part of the lamp base. Using this method I could
> run the wire out through a small hole in the side at the base of the lamp,
> or put it in a groove out the base.
> In either case it also looks like I need to use felt, or cork or
> something else to cover the lamp base.
> Any preferences, recommendations, suggestions, cautions on this? I
> have read through the archives and found the excellent advice on proper
> wiring, safety considerations. Things I didn't know. Sure appreciate that
> resource!
> Thanks in advance for any help! Happy Holidays!
> Dave Finkelnburg in southern Idaho where it's trying to be winter
> and the snow is staying on the ground
> dfinkeln@cyberhighway.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Bruch
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 6:56 AM
> Subject: Mask cartidges
>
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >My replacement cartridge says " dusts, fumes, mists having a weighted
> average
> >less than 0.05MG per cubic meter." Is this sufficient for glaze and clay
> >mixing and plaster dust, or do I need better protection?
> >
> >Bob Bruch
> >
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer jfboyer@sover.net
Thistle Hill Pottery
Vermont USA
http://www.vermontcrafts.com/members/ThistleHill.html
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Dannon Rhudy on mon 13 dec 99
The simplest method may be to just throw a hollow cylinder
of whatever shape you wish, with no bottom in it, with a small
hole in the side base to run the cord through. That way you
can reach all the way to the top to affix the electrical parts. You'll
note that most commercial lamp bases are open, also. Do throw
them a bit bottom-heavy, for greater stability - lamps are one
thing where lighter is not necessarily better. Either cork or
felt works for the foot, to prevent scratching furniture.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com
At 07:11 PM 12/12/1999 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi all,
> If you have experience making bases for electric lamps, I have a couple
>simple questions.
> I have a commission to do some, and haven't done this before. I am
>curious about which method gives you adequate stability for the light/shade,
>and also which gives you good vertical alignment of the light without having
>to fuss around.
> It appears to me I can either:
> --run the hollow all-thread up through the entire lamp, which means
>I need to make a hole in the bottom centered below the top opening, and a
>depression in the base deep enoug to hold a lock nut and to let the wire
>come out and go off to the side
> --cut an opening in the lamp base large enough to reach up into and
>use a threaded metal bar on the hollow all-thread which would be pulled up
>against the upper inside part of the lamp base. Using this method I could
>run the wire out through a small hole in the side at the base of the lamp,
>or put it in a groove out the base.
> In either case it also looks like I need to use felt, or cork or
>something else to cover the lamp base.
> Any preferences, recommendations, suggestions, cautions on this? I
>have read through the archives and found the excellent advice on proper
>wiring, safety considerations. Things I didn't know. Sure appreciate that
>resource!
> Thanks in advance for any help! Happy Holidays!
> Dave Finkelnburg in southern Idaho where it's trying to be winter
>and the snow is staying on the ground
> dfinkeln@cyberhighway.net
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Bruch
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 6:56 AM
>Subject: Mask cartidges
>
>
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>My replacement cartridge says " dusts, fumes, mists having a weighted
>average
>>less than 0.05MG per cubic meter." Is this sufficient for glaze and clay
>>mixing and plaster dust, or do I need better protection?
>>
>>Bob Bruch
>>
>
Cindy Strnad on mon 13 dec 99
Dave,
Most, if not all lamp bases I've seen are hollow at the bottom. This makes
it possible to install and service the hardware. Lamps can be thrown right
side up or upside down, as you like, but leave out the bottom. Just cut a
groove in the wall for the cord to go through--much easier to work with than
a hole. You'll probably need to wire up the lamp, but if it's already wired,
or if your customer wants to do some work on it, the groove is more
convenient. Cover the base with cork and/or felt to provide stability,
protect furniture, and give a finished look to your product.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
Custer, SD
Gregory D Lamont on mon 13 dec 99
At 07:11 PM 12/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi all,
> If you have experience making bases for electric lamps, I have a couple
>simple questions.
> I have a commission to do some, and haven't done this before. I am
>curious about which method gives you adequate stability for the light/shade,
>and also which gives you good vertical alignment of the light without having
>to fuss around.
> It appears to me I can either:
> --run the hollow all-thread up through the entire lamp, which means
>I need to make a hole in the bottom centered below the top opening, and a
>depression in the base deep enoug to hold a lock nut and to let the wire
>come out and go off to the side
> --cut an opening in the lamp base large enough to reach up into and
>use a threaded metal bar on the hollow all-thread which would be pulled up
>against the upper inside part of the lamp base. Using this method I could
>run the wire out through a small hole in the side at the base of the lamp,
>or put it in a groove out the base.
> In either case it also looks like I need to use felt, or cork or
>something else to cover the lamp base.
> Any preferences, recommendations, suggestions, cautions on this? I
>have read through the archives and found the excellent advice on proper
>wiring, safety considerations. Things I didn't know. Sure appreciate that
>resource!
> Thanks in advance for any help! Happy Holidays!
> Dave Finkelnburg in southern Idaho where it's trying to be winter
>and the snow is staying on the ground
> dfinkeln@cyberhighway.net
Hi Dave,
I've seen it done both ways.
The best thing I can recommend is getting a copy of the Gearon Company's
catalog of lamp parts. (312-247-4716) 2944 W 26th Street, Chicago,
Illinois 60623. They advertised in the 1998 edition of the American
Ceramic Society's Potter's Guide. They are a wholesaler of just about any
metal, glass or electrical part you could want.
Greg
gdlamont@iastate.edu
http://www.ourwebpage.net/greglamont/
Mailing address:
Greg Lamont
3011 Northwood Drive
Ames, IA 50010-4750
(515) 233-3442
Charles Williams on mon 13 dec 99
Dave,
I have used threaded tubing and have found this easy to work with. Centering
at the top can be easy with a little forethought and planning. There are two
easy ways: 1) make a hole the width of the tubing in the top (I throw all
lamp bases with an open bottom and anchor the tubing with a threaded bar
designed for this) and place a threaded recepticle directly on the tubing; 2)
make a narrow top the size of decorative pieces that fit over the tubing
(available in most hardware stores or from lamp supply houses), these look
like fancy washers and provide a nice finish/dressing to the top. If all else
fails, use one of the space age adhesives to anchor everything. Using felt or
cork is individual preference/choice. If you glaze the bottom, no pad is
needed. Also, if you don't glaze the bottom and have the where-with-all to
grind/polish the bottom as smooth as a baby's bottom, you don't need a pad.
Happy potting!
C Williams
Martin A. Arkowitz on tue 14 dec 99
i"ve been making and selling lamps for so many years and jennifer boyer has it
right. the only thing that i do that i would suggest is make a knot in the
electric wire so the customer can't pull the wire out through the bottom hole.
also make sure to get, as jennifer suggested, the wire set with the plug molded
in. this is much safer to use than one where you have to add the plug on to
the wire and which could be another electrical problem.
i buy all my parts from de sherbinin company in hawleyville, ct. they have a
good asssortment of supplies and ship out within hours of receiving the order.
they also size their vase caps in small increments. i keep a large assortment
on hand so i don't have to throw the neck to any special size. i would also
recommend that all external parts-socket, vase caps, neck, etc be of burnished
and lacquered brass. looks elegant and definitely adds to the overall look of
the finished product. the inside pipe and cross bar should never be seen by
the customer and so can be steel.
hope this is of some help to you.
eleanor arkowitz
hanover, n.h.
marty1@dartmouth.edu
NakedClay@aol.com on thu 16 dec 99
Hi Jennifer, Dave, and other lamp makers!
One thing I suggest, an addition to Jennifer's excellent advice, is to buy an
electric cord set with a "strain relief." This little rubber grommet is
placed into the 1/2" hole for the electric cord. Insert the grommet, then
pull the cord through it, using Jennifer's method. The strain relief, as its
name implies, keeps the cord tight and intact. It prevents one from pulling
the cord too hard (such as an accident many youngsters are known to create),
and disconnecting the cord from socket inside the lamp. It also provides a
professional look to the finished lamp.
Many of the available lamp cord sets include this important grommet. One can
also buy them at an electric supply store, Home Depot, or a well-stocked
hardware store.
Another "enlightening" suggestion from the High (chilly) Desert!
Milton :NakedClay@AOL.COM
Yucca Valley, CA Frost expected tonight. I used my car heater earlier today,
the first time in about a year. I got a blast of dust inside the car--more
dust than I leave behind on the dirt roads out here!
David Hendley on thu 16 dec 99
Dave, you got plenty of advice about your lamps,
but no one mentioned my favorite design:
a wooden base.
With this system, you just make a vase and put a
1/2" hole on the bottom center.
The threaded rod goes through the entire lamp and
base. The vase sits on a wooden base with a hole
in the middle, countersunk in a larger hole to
accommodate the nut, and a horizontal hole for the
cord.
No need to use crummy-looking felt to cover stuff up.
No need to tie a knot in the cord, or put a hole or groove
for the cord in the vase.
Makes the pot look more elegant.
You can make your own if you do woodworking, or
you can buy them from lamp parts places.
One other tip if you use your 'method 1', with the
depression in the base and the rod going through the
lamp - Use a rubber washer, then a flat washer, on the
bottom before putting on the nut. This will allow you
to make it good and tight without damaging your lamp.
I have actually cracked lamps by over-tightening. It's
easier than you think.
With the wooden base system, the wood has enough
'give' to allow you to tighten the rod and not stress
the pottery vase.
--
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
hendley@tyler.net
http://www.farmpots.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Finkelnburg
To:
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 6:11 PM
Subject: Electric lamp base questions
| ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
| Hi all,
| If you have experience making bases for electric lamps, I have a
couple
| simple questions.
| I have a commission to do some, and haven't done this before. I am
| curious about which method gives you adequate stability for the
light/shade,
| and also which gives you good vertical alignment of the light without
having
| to fuss around.
| It appears to me I can either:
| --run the hollow all-thread up through the entire lamp, which
means
| I need to make a hole in the bottom centered below the top opening, and a
| depression in the base deep enoug to hold a lock nut and to let the wire
| come out and go off to the side
| --cut an opening in the lamp base large enough to reach up into
and
| use a threaded metal bar on the hollow all-thread which would be pulled up
| against the upper inside part of the lamp base. Using this method I could
| run the wire out through a small hole in the side at the base of the lamp,
| or put it in a groove out the base.
| In either case it also looks like I need to use felt, or cork or
| something else to cover the lamp base.
| Any preferences, recommendations, suggestions, cautions on this? I
| have read through the archives and found the excellent advice on proper
| wiring, safety considerations. Things I didn't know. Sure appreciate
that
| resource!
| Thanks in advance for any help! Happy Holidays!
| Dave Finkelnburg in southern Idaho where it's trying to be winter
| and the snow is staying on the ground
| dfinkeln@cyberhighway.net
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From: Bob Bruch
| To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
| Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 6:56 AM
| Subject: Mask cartidges
|
|
| >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
| >My replacement cartridge says " dusts, fumes, mists having a weighted
| average
| >less than 0.05MG per cubic meter." Is this sufficient for glaze and clay
| >mixing and plaster dust, or do I need better protection?
| >
| >Bob Bruch
| >
Jonathan Kaplan on thu 16 dec 99
We use a tried and true method of lamp base assembly which provides a very
professional presentation. No open bases, no cork to cover same, etc etc.
All parts are purchased from Desherbinin.
Make the lamp base by what ever method. Leave a 2" hole in the top and
drill a 3/8" hole in the sidewall near the bottom for the cord to exit.
Assemble a nipple and cross bar assembly. Run a cordset through the hole
in the side wall. Tie a simple loose knot in the cord set and push the
remaining cord up into the nipple assembly that is resting outside of the
base. By tilting and bending the crossbar slightly, you can push it inside
the top of the lamp so that the crossbar contacts the interior of the lamp
base. By pullin gup on the cirdset, the know holds the crossbar assembly up
tight. Place a vase cap over the top of the nipple assembly and then a
threaded brass bushing to hold the entire assembly in place. Then wire in
the socket set. There are a variety of strain relief bushings that can be
snapped in or glued into the 3/8" cord set exit hole.
If you send a SASE, I'll send a drawing to any one interested.
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design Group LTd/Production Services
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs, CO 80477
(970) 879-9139 voice and fax
http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign
UPS: 1280 13th St. Unit13
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
| |
|
