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foot-wedging

updated fri 2 jul 10

 

Steve Yahn on sun 19 dec 99

My old hands swell up if I use them too hard. Is there such a thing as
wedging or kneeding by just using yer feet?
Thanks, Steve

Kat Neely Jones on mon 20 dec 99

Steve,

When my clay is cold or the arthritis in my wrists acts up, I use a
"kneading" method another potter showed me some years ago. Put the clay in a
plastic bag (if its not already bagged) and drop it on the ground 5 or 6
times. My friend actually slammed 25 lb bags of clay to the ground, but I
have good results just dropping them, even from my diminutive height. It
really works well on cold clay that's been in storage for some time. Smaller
amounts of clay you could drop in a sack and smack against a worktable
several times. Seems to get the air bubbles out pretty well.

As far as foot-wedging, I've never heard of anyone doing that except Neil
Tetkowski (?) (saw the article in an old CM). I believe he used some version
of a karate kick. But, he was also trying to wedge 100+ lbs of clay at once.

Hope this helps ~

Kat Neely Jones
Salem, Oregon

Solvejgma@Home.com

WHew536674@cs.com on mon 20 dec 99

Steve,
Save your feet too. Buying commercially made clay which has been pugged
eliminates air bubbles. Just cut off a piece of clay and use, don't have to
worry about wedging.
Joyce A

Alex Wilson on mon 20 dec 99

Yes, Steve, there is something called foot wedging. Leach wrote about it in
his 'Potters' Book', and my tutor at college taught me how to do it, and
doubtless he still readies his clay in the same manner every morning. (I
haven't seen him in a while - Mike Dodd - anyone know where he is now?)
Anyway, bung your clay (50-100lbs.) down on a bit of fairly clean and
relatively level floor, in a little mound with the top as high as you want to
step. If you've a beam above this lot, then tie a piece of rope to it and
hang on for dear life. Then place the outside edge of one foot on the
top/edge of the mound of clay and push down to the ground, moving forward
with each step. Did I not say to hold on to the rope?
Continue going round until the clay is a flattish disc, and then shovel it
back up into a mound and start all over (great cardio-vascular workout - I
never said this was going to be easy).
This technique is really only meant to mix disparate clays or to mix dry
clays and water; some further _kneading_ will have to be done at the bench.
Make sure the bench is at the right height for you, and don't let your clay
be too stiff, and let the clay, "do the work for you". You shouldn't be using
enough force to make your hands hurt, but I guarantee you'll be a bit shagged
out by the end, which is a good excuse for a sit-down and a cuppa.
There are but two alternatives to the above - 1. buy a de-airing pug-mill.
2. Hire an apprentice.
I'd go for No.1., even though it can't make tea, as it's generally more
reliable in cold weather and is always ready for work.
Hope the info is useful to you, be sure and have a Happy Hogmanay when it
comes.
Slainthe,

Alex, The Scottish Potter, "If ye hinnae a snaw-blawerr, a shovel'll hiv tae
dae!", in snawie Iowa.

Carenza Hayhoe on tue 21 dec 99

In 1980 I visited a pottery in B'hala, a village in Oman. Three men
including one who was blind earned their living there. They only made two
types of pot, one with a rounded bottom that could be carried on the head,
the other a water storage jar about four feet high. Although they had an
electric wheel, most of their work was done on slow wheels and they prepared
their clay with their feet. Most of their work was unglazed, and sadly I
didn't see any of their glazed work so I don't know if these were a
different shape. Their only glaze was made from grinding an speckled
off-white stone which they won from a mountain site a days journey into the
desert. Their kilns where shaped like old fashioned bee skeps and fired
using reeds - the date palms are far to valuable to burn. If anyone would
like a picture of the Omani potter foot wedging please contact me off line
and I would be happy to send it.
Carenza
http://www.mochaware.com
carenza.hayhoe@mochaware.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Yahn
To:
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 3:51 PM
Subject: foot-wedging


> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> My old hands swell up if I use them too hard. Is there such a thing as
> wedging or kneeding by just using yer feet?
> Thanks, Steve
>
>

Ray Aldridge on tue 21 dec 99

At 04:40 PM 12/20/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Steve,
>Save your feet too. Buying commercially made clay which has been pugged
>eliminates air bubbles. Just cut off a piece of clay and use, don't have to
>worry about wedging.

I must be buying my clay from the wrong source, because I can't imagine
throwing it right out of the bag. It just doesn't feel right until it's
been wedged, to me.

Ray


Aldridge Porcelain and Stoneware
http://www.goodpots.com

Mark & Pauline Donaldson-Drzazga on wed 22 dec 99


----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: 20 December 1999 21:40
Subject: Re: foot-wedging


> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Steve,
> Save your feet too. Buying commercially made clay which has been pugged
> eliminates air bubbles. Just cut off a piece of clay and use, don't have
to
> worry about wedging.
> Joyce A
>

Dear Clayarters,

If you want crap clay do just that, if you want clay that is perfectly in
tune with you and clay particles all lined up then knead it. I also wedge
it. No short way just enjoy clay preparation as part of the deal.

Happy potting and lets all have a great Century Marek
http://www.moley.uk.com

Dave Finkelnburg on wed 22 dec 99

Steve,
Yes, you can wedge or knead clay using just your feet. I am no expert
on the subject--I seldom need to wedge relatively large quantities of clay
at one time. However, I find it very useful when I need to wedge up 50 or
more pounds of clay at once. If my description below isn't clear, please
let me know and I'll try again.
As Alex Wilson pointed out, make a mound of your clay on a flat floor.
I throw mine down onto a piece of particle board covered with formica,
because that is easier to clean up than my rough concrete.
I was taught to foot-wedge with the instep of each foot. The technique
which makes this pleasant and easy requires maintaining good balance, which
means stand up straight, though relaxed, and look ahead, not down, as much
as possible. Literally "feel" where the clay is.
Start with either foot, but let's say the right foot this time. More or
less straddle the mound of clay. Step onto the edge of your clay mound
barefoot with the instep of your right foot, and peel off a bit of clay and
push it down out all the way to the floor. Then pick up the left foot and
do the same on the opposite side of the mound, or as far around toward the
other side of the mound as is comfortable. Next, pick up the right foot and
step around the mound and forward a few inches and repeat the procedure,
then follow with the left foot again, so that your are slowly walking around
the mound in a circle, peeling off a little bit of the mound each time, so
that after a bit you have a flat pad of clay.
Now you have to peel off clay from the outside of the pad and slam it
down onto the center of the pad, to build up a new mound of clay. Once
you've done that, start over again.
The key to foot wedging as I learned it is to step high and maintain
your balance by looking ahead. If you have to keep looking down at your
feet you'll always be off balance and make a lot of work for yourself. as
with centering, you can probably do this better with your eyes closed.
Foot-wedging can tend to introduce air into the clay, usually when you
peel off clay from the wedged pad and pile it back up again. If you take
care how you do that step, you can minimize the air bubbles.
For learning, try this with a small amount of clay, say 25 pounds. I
find it particularly effective for wedging scraps of clay back in with new
clay. I am no expert on foot wedging--I seldom It isn't a perfect system,
but it is a great way to wedge up or mix large quantities of clay. You can
easily wedge 300 pounds of clay in a short time using this method. The
finished product may not be as nice as what you get out of a de-airing pug
mill, but if you haven't got the few thousand dollars necessary to buy the
pug mill, foot-wedging is a very effective alternative. Besides, it can be
a very peaceful, relaxing way to work the clay!
Please let me know if you have more questions about this. Good potting!
Dave Finkelnburg in balmy Idaho (balmy for Idaho, that is!)

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Yahn
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Sunday, December 19, 1999 8:52 AM
Subject: foot-wedging


----------------------------Original message----------------------------
My old hands swell up if I use them too hard. Is there such a thing as
wedging or kneeding by just using yer feet?
Thanks, Steve

Penny Hosler on wed 22 dec 99

ClayArts in Tacoma, WA told me that you can use it right out of the
bag without wedging if it's been pugged VERY recently. If it's been
sitting for much time at all it memorizes the spiral formed as it
comes out of the mill. I guess the only way to really know is to pug
it yourself. Now I just need Bill Gates to take pity and buy me
one....
Penny in WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Aldridge
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: foot-wedging


>----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
>At 04:40 PM 12/20/99 EST, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
>>Steve,
>>Save your feet too. Buying commercially made clay which has been
pugged
>>eliminates air bubbles. Just cut off a piece of clay and use, don't
have to
>>worry about wedging.
>
>I must be buying my clay from the wrong source, because I can't
imagine
>throwing it right out of the bag. It just doesn't feel right until
it's
>been wedged, to me.
>
>Ray
>
>
>Aldridge Porcelain and Stoneware
>http://www.goodpots.com
>

Marian Morris on wed 22 dec 99

Must share an experience which is contrary to the advice of using commercial
clay unwedged. I had been playing fast and loose with the no-wedge idea
(hating legalisms as I do) when using commercial clay, particularly with
handbuilding. Taught a class on tile making, and we made cut slabs from
non-wedged commercial clay. I've been doing this for years (using cut slabs)
but had always wedged, believing in the need to line up the clay particles
and compact the clay. What's more, I had always slammed the cube of clay I
cut from in order to get it into the size of cube I wanted.

Being in a hurry, I did none of the above preparation, and had bigtime
problems- warping, major cracking, etc. Embarrassed me, angered the
students. Learned my lesson.

I think throwing is probably safer with non-wedged commercial clay, simply
because of the compaction that takes place in centering. Can't say as I've
had any problems there.


>From: WHew536674@cs.com
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Re: foot-wedging
>Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 16:40:19 EST
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Steve,
>Save your feet too. Buying commercially made clay which has been pugged
>eliminates air bubbles. Just cut off a piece of clay and use, don't have
>to
>worry about wedging.
>Joyce A

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Jean Cochran on thu 23 dec 99

Dear Steve:

I've done quite a bit of foot wedging, but found it to be useful only in the
early stages of clay preparation and had to hand wedge afterwards for the
final balls.

If you are buying pre-pugged clay you can just cut the clay into the proper
size and round it off, being careful to not roll bubbles in your piece. I
get my clay in 25 pound square pieces. If I want (25) 1# balls, I cut off
(1) 1# piece of clay and wedge it; then cut the remaining 24 # piece in
quarters, which equals (4) 6# balls; cut (1) 2# ball off each 6# ball,
divide these in half; cut the remaining 4# balls into quarters, and you have
a total of (24) additional 1# balls. I just rock these back and forth until
they are rounded, then pat for the final shape. The trick is to refrain
from having bits and pieces of clay to be put together to make any given
piece. I can just repeatedly drop my clay from a couple of inches off the
wedging table, if it's larger pieces, to begin the rounding process. Gee, I
hope this makes sense!

Write back if not and I'll try again.

Good luck,

Jean Cochran

Steve Yahn wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> My old hands swell up if I use them too hard. Is there such a thing as
> wedging or kneeding by just using yer feet?
> Thanks, Steve

Cindy Strnad on fri 24 dec 99

Concerning using commercial clay straight from the bag . . .

I don't do this myself, but did attend a workshop in which the demonstrator
advised using clay straight from the bag. He didn't wedge, but did cone the
clay several times on the wheel prior to beginning the throwing process.

Personally, I think using cold, hard clay would be as hard on the
wrists/fingers/elbows as wedging it would be. Maybe worse. Unless you're
making small pieces only.

I couldn't afford a pug mill, either, guys. The Peter Pugger VP-30 costs
around $4000. That's a lot of money. Still, have you any idea what joint
replacement, or carpal tunnel surgery would cost--not only in terms of
medical expenses, but in pain, lost time, loss of function, and so on?

If you're in clay for a hobby, that's one thing, but if this is your
business, take a deep breath, apply for a loan or get a new credit card or
whatever it takes. You need tools for your profession and it's ridiculous to
skimp on them.

Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
Custer, SD

Eric Hansen on thu 1 jul 10


The foot wedging really wasn't any harder than of slower than using the
little Bluebird mixer at school. The clean-up was actually easier. Of cours=
e
it wouldn't be possible in winter weather.

I put together a series of tests for single-component clay body
formulation, so far I have been using Cedar Heights Bond Clay, a
coarse version of the famous "Gold Art" - this works nice with a
little grog. I mixed only small samples of the well-known 100%
Hawthorn Bond Clay body, again with grog (for cone 10). Also the 100%
XX Sagger which Otto Heino used for salt fire, plus grog (for cone 10)
. The crew from Cedar Heights said try the Roseville with better fire
color than the Gold Art, but I think that is 200 mesh air-floated,
which isn't really successful by itself, unless you like really
plastic & shrinking clay. Unless I am wrong. Today I improved my clay
mixing routine by using the foot-wedging, using KT clay's Kentucky
Stone, a illitic, high-silica ball clay, plus 5% custer feldspar, 5%
medium grog, and 5% Sakrete "Play Sand" which was measured while
moist, that's how it comes in the bag. Foot-wedging would be optimal
mixing the entire 50# bag at a time.

So, to summarize, the 3 clay bodies I am working with right now are,
(1) gold art (bond clay) @ cone 6-8, (2) Roseville @ cone 6, and (3)
Kentucky Stone about @ cone 8(?). I have some more clays on order for
cones 2 & 4.

Looking forward to trying the Lincoln 60 & the Lizella

I had a revelation to try sieving the backyard clay at 40 mesh and see
how it does.

I threw some pasta plates for the cupboard with the Roseville, with
heavy grog. It was more like turning the clay rather than throwing. I
had to add too much grog since the mix was too plastic.

Anyway, off to the printing plant now;

h a n s e n

--
Eric Alan Hansen
Stonehouse Studio Pottery
Alexandria, Virginia
americanpotter.blogspot.com
thesuddenschool.blogspot.com
hansencookbook.blogspot.com
"To me, human life in all its forms, individual and aggregate, is a
perpetual wonder: the flora of the earth and sea is full of beauty and of
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that folds it in on everyside, are still more wonderful, complex, and
attractive to the contemplating mind." - Theodore Parker, minister,
transcendentalist, abolitionist (1810-1860)