Lesley Alexander on wed 29 dec 99
Some people take a long time getting the hang of things, I'm one of them.
This is about firing patterns for copper red, shino, and iron red. I take
it they are all different. Copper red and shino both take firm early
reduction (^09-10), can handle steady reduction to ^10. Then, one party
recommends a long oxidized cooling for shino (to ^08?), and a long reduced
cooling for copper reds (also to about ^08?). How does that sound?
When it comes to iron reds, you want a fairly neutral to slightly reduced
firing going up, and fast cooling in oxidation to ....what cone?
Then there are rutile blues. You reduce on the way up and again cool fast
for those crystals, probably in reduction.
Is that the general idea? My approach right now is to reduce early, then
moderately to ^10, taking about 9-11 hours, and let it cool however it
wants to all closed up which is probably fairly neutral. If the glaze works
three cheers. But it would be nice to know what I should do to maximize
various glazes. I'm about to take the plunge with an oxyprobe and can maybe
improve my technique. I do love those toasty shinos! Lesley waiting for
rain and possibly advice in So Calif.
Hank Murrow on thu 30 dec 99
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Some people take a long time getting the hang of things, I'm one
>of them.
>This is about firing patterns for copper red, shino, and iron red. I take
>it they are all different. Copper red and shino both take firm early
>reduction (^09-10), can handle steady reduction to ^10. Then, one party
>recommends a long oxidized cooling for shino (to ^08?), and a long reduced
>cooling for copper reds (also to about ^08?). How does that sound?
>
> When it comes to iron reds, you want a fairly neutral to slightly
>reduced
>firing going up, and fast cooling in oxidation to ....what cone?
*******I would say slow cooling is better for all iron reds, and adding an
oxidation soak for two to eight hours at around C/1 is even better. Hank
> Then there are rutile blues. You reduce on the way up and again
>cool fast for those crystals, probably in reduction. Is that the general
>idea? My approach right now is to reduce early, then moderately to ^10,
>taking about 9-11 hours, and let it cool however it wants to all closed up
>which is probably fairly neutral. If the glaze works three cheers. But it
>would be nice to know what I should do to maximize various glazes. I'm
>about to take the plunge with an oxyprobe and can maybe improve my
>technique. I do love those toasty shinos! Lesley waiting for rain and
>possibly advice in So Calif.
********I have found that the OxyProbe really allowed me to explore the
cooling cycle; and now that part of the firing seems as important as the
firing part. By the Way, when you get your OxyProbe, don't fire by the
manual that comes with it. Instead, just do your regular firing and pay
attention to the 'numbers' which the Probe gives you, THEN fire with the
Probe. Hank in Eugene
Stephen Grimmer on thu 30 dec 99
Lesley,
I start reduction at ^012 and keep it pretty good until ^1, then back
off some to keep the bottom of the kiln from racing ahead. I keep it like
that, reducing lightly, until ^9 is down and 10 is bending, then oxidize to
beat the band to put tens at 3 O'clock, about 30 minutes. I clam up the
whole thing and unload in 24 hours or more. I never reduce the cooling kiln
and get really nice Cu reds and shinos.
regards
steve grimmer
marion illinois
----------
>From: Lesley Alexander
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Firing patterns, gas ^10
>Date: Wed, Dec 29, 1999, 11:51 AM
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Some people take a long time getting the hang of things, I'm one of the
>This is about firing patterns for copper red, shino, and iron red. I take
>it they are all different. Copper red and shino both take firm early
>reduction (^09-10), can handle steady reduction to ^10. Then, one party
>recommends a long oxidized cooling for shino (to ^08?), and a long reduced
>cooling for copper reds (also to about ^08?). How does that sound?
>
> When it comes to iron reds, you want a fairly neutral to slightly reduc
>firing going up, and fast cooling in oxidation to ....what cone?
>
> Then there are rutile blues. You reduce on the way up and again cool fa
>for those crystals, probably in reduction.
>
> Is that the general idea? My approach right now is to reduce early, the
>moderately to ^10, taking about 9-11 hours, and let it cool however it
>wants to all closed up which is probably fairly neutral. If the glaze works
>three cheers. But it would be nice to know what I should do to maximize
>various glazes. I'm about to take the plunge with an oxyprobe and can maybe
>improve my technique. I do love those toasty shinos! Lesley waiting for
>rain and possibly advice in So Calif.
>
Hank Murrow on tue 11 jan 00
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Lesley,
> I start reduction at ^012 and keep it pretty good until ^1, then back
>off some to keep the bottom of the kiln from racing ahead. I keep it like
>that, reducing lightly, until ^9 is down and 10 is bending, then oxidize to
>beat the band to put tens at 3 O'clock, about 30 minutes. I clam up the
>whole thing and unload in 24 hours or more. I never reduce the cooling kiln
>and get really nice Cu reds and shinos.
>
>regards
>steve grimmer
Dear Steve; If you want to try something different for your Shinos to turn
them a darker, more 'bloody' color; cool normally down to C/1 and then
start up the kiln again about 1/3 power and hold it in oxidation for 3 to 6
hours. Cool normally after the soak. I tried it about three years ago to
good effect. Hank in Eugene
Stephen Grimmer on wed 12 jan 00
Hank,
I'll give it a shot next time I have a kiln load of Shino. Come to think
of it, I have my beginning throwers glaze their first cylinders in Shino,
and we load about 250 of the suckers into a kiln. I'll try your suggestion
and let you know. Fun to experiment on student work! ;^)
Steve Grimmer
Bowling Green State University
Bowling Green, OH
----------
>From: Hank Murrow
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Re: Firing patterns, gas ^10
>Date: Tue, Jan 11, 2000, 9:56 AM
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Lesley,
>> I start reduction at ^012 and keep it pretty good until ^1, then back
>>off some to keep the bottom of the kiln from racing ahead. I keep it like
>>that, reducing lightly, until ^9 is down and 10 is bending, then oxidize to
>>beat the band to put tens at 3 O'clock, about 30 minutes. I clam up the
>>whole thing and unload in 24 hours or more. I never reduce the cooling kiln
>>and get really nice Cu reds and shinos.
>>
>>regards
>>steve grimmer
>
>Dear Steve; If you want to try something different for your Shinos to turn
>them a darker, more 'bloody' color; cool normally down to C/1 and then
>start up the kiln again about 1/3 power and hold it in oxidation for 3 to 6
>hours. Cool normally after the soak. I tried it about three years ago to
>good effect. Hank in Eugene
Hank Murrow on thu 13 jan 00
>>Dear Steve; If you want to try something different for your Shinos to turn
>>them a darker, more 'bloody' color; cool normally down to C/1 and then
>>start up the kiln again about 1/3 power and hold it in oxidation for 3 to 6
>>hours. Cool normally after the soak. I tried it about three years ago to
>>good effect. Hank in Eugene
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hank,
> I'll give it a shot next time I have a kiln load of Shino. Come to think
>of it, I have my beginning throwers glaze their first cylinders in Shino,
>and we load about 250 of the suckers into a kiln. I'll try your suggestion
>and let you know. Fun to experiment on student work! ;^)
>
>Steve Grimmer
Hi Steve; Also have them stroke the freshly glazed surface of the pot with
a finger or leather comb to show a greater thin to thick variation. I would
love to know how it turns out for them. Maybe you could let them reply; and
seduce them into Clayart! Regards, Hank
Stephen Grimmer on fri 14 jan 00
Hank,
I show them lots of tricks with the ol' shino: finger swipes in the wet
glaze, drying the pot on its side, drying in a mesh onion bag, etc. Another
fun trick is re firing shino pots in an electric bisque; it sometimes brings
out terrific lustrous orange colors. We always get at least one student in
each class who goes shino crazy and just can't seem to get enough of it.
One of the grads here has a nice mix of sieved wood ash, spar, and a wee
bit of cobalt that runs really well. He wads shino glazed pots on their
sides, seives the ash mix on the top, and fires in the gas kiln. Pretty
nice.
steve
--
Steve Grimmer
Bowling Green State University
Bowling Green, OH
----------
>From: Hank Murrow
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Re: Firing patterns, gas ^10
>Date: Thu, Jan 13, 2000, 3:41 PM
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>
>>>Dear Steve; If you want to try something different for your Shinos to turn
>>>them a darker, more 'bloody' color; cool normally down to C/1 and then
>>>start up the kiln again about 1/3 power and hold it in oxidation for 3 to 6
>>>hours. Cool normally after the soak. I tried it about three years ago to
>>>good effect. Hank in Eugene
>
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Hank,
>> I'll give it a shot next time I have a kiln load of Shino. Come to think
>>of it, I have my beginning throwers glaze their first cylinders in Shino,
>>and we load about 250 of the suckers into a kiln. I'll try your suggestion
>>and let you know. Fun to experiment on student work! ;^)
>>
>>Steve Grimmer
>
>
> Hi Steve; Also have them stroke the freshly glazed surface of the pot with
> a finger or leather comb to show a greater thin to thick variation. I would
> love to know how it turns out for them. Maybe you could let them reply; and
> seduce them into Clayart! Regards, Hank
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