Peter Jones on fri 14 jan 00
I've got the rutile blues. I used to use Shrope's rutile blue glaze for
many years as a workhorse glaze for my line of pots. However, I was/am
still plagued by minute clusters of pinholes in the fired results, some of
which break the surface and make the ware nearly unusable. I actually
stopped using the glaze about five years ago because of the problems I was
having with it.
Rutile is notorious for causing these pinholes, but there seem to be many
people who still use it and have no problems. I'm considering altering the
Shrope formula a bit (subbing Neph Sye for some of the feldspar, then
adjusting the flint content up a bit) to see if I can make it smooth out a
bit more. Don't know if this is worth the trouble, though.
Does anyone else have a good, dependable rutile blue that does not bubble?
It is not my clay body as this happens on porcelain pieces as well. I fire
to c/10-11 in a light reduction. All my other glazes look great, just the
rultile blue is the problem. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Peter Jones
Liz Willoughby on mon 17 jan 00
Hello Peter,
I've been using Woo Blue, a rutile blue recipe that I got from
clayart, and I can not remember who to give credit to for this glaze.
I rarely get blisters, but every once in a while I do get one or two,
perhaps on the inside of a bowl. Thin application gives a rusty
brown, thicker is blue with tones of purple, green, yellow and rust.
I fire to cone 10/11, reduction from cone 010 all the way up. I use a
porcelain cone 10 clay body.
Woo Blue
G-200 42
Silica 27
Whiting 18
OM #4 13
RIO 4
Rutile 4
Bentonite 1
Hope this is helpful. Liz
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I've got the rutile blues. I used to use Shrope's rutile blue glaze for
>many years as a workhorse glaze for my line of pots. However, I was/am
>still plagued by minute clusters of pinholes in the fired results, some of
>which break the surface and make the ware nearly unusable. I actually
>stopped using the glaze about five years ago because of the problems I was
>having with it.
>
>Rutile is notorious for causing these pinholes, but there seem to be many
>people who still use it and have no problems. I'm considering altering the
>Shrope formula a bit (subbing Neph Sye for some of the feldspar, then
>adjusting the flint content up a bit) to see if I can make it smooth out a
>bit more. Don't know if this is worth the trouble, though.
>
>Does anyone else have a good, dependable rutile blue that does not bubble?
>It is not my clay body as this happens on porcelain pieces as well. I fire
>to c/10-11 in a light reduction. All my other glazes look great, just the
>rultile blue is the problem. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
>
>Peter Jones
Liz Willoughby
2903 Shelter Valley Rd.
R.R.#1
Grafton, Ontario
Canada
e-mail, lizwill@phc.igs.net
Jonathan Kaplan on mon 17 jan 00
We use a combination of 2 glazes, both containing rutile, iron ox, titanium
diox, and cobalt, and the dreaded gerstly borate. These glazes are layered
over each other and fired to c/9-10 with an oxyprobe reading of 65. Now,
not to strut or sound overy confidant, we have fired these glazes for ober
3 years with no pin holes, no zitting, and no problems. These are glazes
that have been in practically every potters notebook, and the reason they
work is because the layering of them creates very favorable eutectics which
eliminate any zitting or pinholing.
And yes, I will share them. Just send me a SASE
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design Group
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs CO 80477
voice and fax 970 879-9139
jonathan@csn,net
http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesigin
David W McDonald on mon 17 jan 00
Peter,
Here are three cone ten reduction rutile blue glaze formulas for
you, and anyone else interested. I've used them all for years, with very
satisfying results. They look great as a first layer with other glazes
over, such as copper red, saturated iron, and many others, or vice versa,
with the rutile glaze over the others. Many potters, perhaps even
yourself, have used these formulas for years, and I certainly don't take
credit for their formulation. I've listed them in order from less to
more in terms of tendency to flow at full melt. Best
wishes, David McDonald
Tatasciore, cone 10
43 Custer Feldspar
8 EPK
9 Ball Clay
22 Flint
18 Whiting
+6 Rutile
Rutile Blue, cone 10
15.8 Dolomite
30 Custer Feldspar
11.1 whiting
16.8 EPK
26.3 flint
+8 Rutile
Cash Blue, cone 10 (from Pete Pinnell, Thanks Pete!)
47.3 Nepheline Syenite
14.2 Gertsley Borate
27.5 Flint
9.3 Whiting
1.7 Zinc Oxide
+4 Rutile
On Fri, 14 Jan 2000 16:42:19 EST Peter Jones writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>I've got the rutile blues. I used to use Shrope's rutile blue glaze
>for
>many years as a workhorse glaze for my line of pots. However, I
>was/am
>still plagued by minute clusters of pinholes in the fired results,
>some of
>which break the surface and make the ware nearly unusable. I actually
>stopped using the glaze about five years ago because of the problems I
>was
>having with it.
>
>Rutile is notorious for causing these pinholes, but there seem to be
>many
>people who still use it and have no problems. I'm considering
>altering the
>Shrope formula a bit (subbing Neph Sye for some of the feldspar, then
>adjusting the flint content up a bit) to see if I can make it smooth
>out a
>bit more. Don't know if this is worth the trouble, though.
>
>Does anyone else have a good, dependable rutile blue that does not
>bubble?
>It is not my clay body as this happens on porcelain pieces as well. I
>fire
>to c/10-11 in a light reduction. All my other glazes look great, just
>the
>rultile blue is the problem. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
>
>Peter Jones
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Jim Brooks on tue 18 jan 00
Does anyone have a rutile blue cone 6 reduction recipe? Hopefullly one that
is tried and true. ! If so, and you will share, I would appreciate it..
Thanks Jim
Paul Taylor on fri 3 mar 00
Dear peter
The same thing happend to me with a titanium blue . The ironey is that it
was the event that made me study glazes in depth. I have become quiet
exspert , but I still have not worked out why that glaze started to bubble
after using it for years . I redesigned my whole range in the end. The other
ironey is that the new pots are infinitly better.
Paul T
----------
>From: Peter Jones
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Rutile Blues.......
>Date: Fri, Jan 14, 2000, 9:42 pm
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I've got the rutile blues. I used to use Shrope's rutile blue glaze for
>many years as a workhorse glaze for my line of pots. However, I was/am
>still plagued by minute clusters of pinholes in the fired results, some of
>which break the surface and make the ware nearly unusable. I actually
>stopped using the glaze about five years ago because of the problems I was
>having with it.
>
>Rutile is notorious for causing these pinholes, but there seem to be many
>people who still use it and have no problems. I'm considering altering the
>Shrope formula a bit (subbing Neph Sye for some of the feldspar, then
>adjusting the flint content up a bit) to see if I can make it smooth out a
>bit more. Don't know if this is worth the trouble, though.
>
>Does anyone else have a good, dependable rutile blue that does not bubble?
>It is not my clay body as this happens on porcelain pieces as well. I fire
>to c/10-11 in a light reduction. All my other glazes look great, just the
>rultile blue is the problem. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
>
>Peter Jones
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