Alisa and Claus Clausen on thu 13 jan 00
------------------
Dear Clayart
I have not found a good book here on paperclay. That is on my list for =
Steve.
In the meantime, I am trying to understand this creature. I believe it will=
be
good for
some vessels I am turning around in my head.
Just for some pointers please to get me started
The porous fired product is due to the paper burning off?
Should it be bisqued to the body's reg. bisque temp (without the paper?)
The capability to attach appendages wet to dry is because of the mixture of
=22paper mache=22 in the clay body?
What percentage of paper can one go up to still be able to throw it?
Can any clay body be made into p-clay?
To understand p-clay - is it as to think of my normal clay body but
with maybe less plasticity but the advantage of assembly at any degree of
dryness?
Do glazes or engobes fire differently on p-clay than on the same body =
without
paper?
Thanks for filling me in a bit.
Alisa in Denmark
Soon in New York
-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Cindy Strnad =3Cearthenv=40gwtc.net=3E
Til: CLAYART=40LSV.UKY.EDU =3CCLAYART=40LSV.UKY.EDU=3E
Dato: 12. januar 2000 23:40
Emne: Re: Firing paper clay
=3E----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3EPat,
=3E
=3EJust blend up some paper in an old blender with a bit of water. Use this
=3Eblended product to reconstitute dry clay. Experiment with the amount of
=3Epaper you use until you find an amount you like. Sounds as if maybe your
=3Ecommercial paper clay had a large amount of paper, and thus the rough =
fired
=3Etexture. Paper clay will be more porous when fired than regular clay.
=3E
=3ECindy Strnad
=3EEarthen Vessels Pottery
=3ECuster, SD
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