Earl Brunner on wed 19 jan 00
My problem deals with the placement of the balls of clay I
put under pots
in a salt or wood type firing. In my last firing I have
about 50% of my mugs
warp bad enough that I wouldn't sell them. I believe it was
because of
improper placement of the alumina coated wads of clay.
The procelain that I use gets very soft at cone 11 and some
of the mugs
bottoms were pushed up significantly as the kiln reached
temperature.
With the balls off allignment this caused warping.
Is there a way to glue or otherwise insure proper placement
of the ball
or wads of clay?
The powdery alumina makes some of the things I tried
difficult. I thought
about putting some alumina hydrate into elmers glue and
gluing them on.
Does anyone out there have a better way?
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Craig Martell on thu 20 jan 00
Hey Earl:
We use uncolored Elmers Glue to hold the wads in place. Some of the
colored glue causes problems so we don't use it any longer. Our wad mix is
equal parts by volume of alumina hydrate and kaolin. This has worked very
well for us. We use a medium stiff clay for wadding.
regards, Craig Martell in Oregon
Anthony Allison on thu 20 jan 00
Hiya Earl,
We use elmers white glue to adher the refractory buttons to the bottoms of
the pots. the glue is dotted onto the bottom of the pot and wads are pushed
into it. Pot is then set on a single sheet of newspaper on a hard flat
surface to allow the wads to set up a bit. Pots buttoned in such a fashion
will retain the refractory over a long time without coming off. It works
very well.
Warmest Regards,
Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Brunner
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 2:35 PM
Subject: wads under pots
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>My problem deals with the placement of the balls of clay I
>put under pots
>in a salt or wood type firing. In my last firing I have
>about 50% of my mugs
>warp bad enough that I wouldn't sell them. I believe it was
>because of
>improper placement of the alumina coated wads of clay.
>The procelain that I use gets very soft at cone 11 and some
>of the mugs
>bottoms were pushed up significantly as the kiln reached
>temperature.
>With the balls off allignment this caused warping.
>Is there a way to glue or otherwise insure proper placement
>of the ball
>or wads of clay?
>The powdery alumina makes some of the things I tried
>difficult. I thought
>about putting some alumina hydrate into elmers glue and
>gluing them on.
>Does anyone out there have a better way?
>--
>Earl Brunner
>http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
>mailto:bruec@anv.net
>
Gari Whelon on thu 20 jan 00
Hi Earl:
We just mix up the wadding, heavy on alumina, roll it into balls, but a dab
of elmers glue on the wads. place the wads, gluefirst, on the bottom of the
pots and lightly flatten with the weight of the pot. They rarely come off
unless we've got the mixture and the wads to wet.
Gari Whelon
Proletariat Pots
Nanaimo, B.C.
whelon@island.net
Vince Pitelka on thu 20 jan 00
>The powdery alumina makes some of the things I tried
>difficult. I thought
>about putting some alumina hydrate into elmers glue and
>gluing them on.
>Does anyone out there have a better way?
Earl -
We use a 50-50 alumina/kaolin mix for our wadding, and we apply three dabs
of elmers glue to the bottom of the pot, and then stick the wads on. It
holds the wadding in place immediately. Smaller pots which require only
three wads can be done in advance, because it does not matter if the wadding
dries. Larger pots and other shapes which require more than three wads must
be glued and wadded right before setting in the kiln so that the wads settle
down and support the form evenly.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Carolyn on thu 20 jan 00
about waddies,
we're using 3/8 -1/2 inch soft brick squares to separate the pottery in
our wood-fired kiln and just coating the stilt ends with a mix of alumina
hydrate, kaolin, and flint. It works fine so far, course we only fire for
about 48 hours, a weeks firing would probably require more for the stilts
and shelves but not for the ware. What a break from making all those
bothersome waddies, thou we always got a few laughs in while making the
silly things and it did make us slow down, like darning a sox or putting on
a button. but you might try the soft brick if you have some that are
deteriating or broken.
Carolyn, doing my first art therapy internship and loving it. Anyone out
there doing art therapy and have some stories to tell about art activities
with clay?
Murray & Bacia Edelman on thu 20 jan 00
Earl Brunner, you wrote about the wads ruining your mugs because they were
all warped.
I am a strange one to be giving advice re wood or salt firing.
But I DO have a suggestion as I helped stack a load of work to be
wood-fired some time ago. Because there was a lot of work done by high
school students and every piece had to be driven to the kiln, the work was
all bisqued.
We then used a ****** HOT GLUE GUN**** to affix some bisqued wads that the
students had made at the high school.
This may seem like a lot more work than you wished for, but that is one way
to solve the problem. It did work. Bacia Edelman
You wrote:
>With the balls off allignment this caused warping.
>Is there a way to glue or otherwise insure proper placement
>of the ball or wads of clay?>>
Bacia Edelman Madison, Wisconsin
http://www.mypots.com/bacia.htm
MOORE, Robert J. on thu 20 jan 00
Earl,
A couple of weeks ago, in my last salt firing, I used apx. 50% kaolin and
50% alumina hydrate. Balled up the wads while the wadding was still moist
and used elmers glues to place them on the pots. Seemed to hold fine.
Although I fired a little too hot, cone 11 down. Next time going to use a
greater % of alumina because some of the wads took off some of the claybody
when I removed them. Didn't have significant warping with my mugs. Some pots
porcelain, some stoneware, some 50,50.
I did a little research and checked out Jack Troy's book on Wood fired
Stoneware and Porcelain. He suggested using bran ( the grain ) or fine
sawdust to mix into the wadding so it will crumble and come off easy.
I'm curious as to what the composition of your wadding is?
Did you have any wads taking off clay?
Robert in southern Indiana
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Brunner [mailto:bruec@anv.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 2:35 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: wads under pots
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
My problem deals with the placement of the balls of clay I
put under pots
in a salt or wood type firing. In my last firing I have
about 50% of my mugs
warp bad enough that I wouldn't sell them. I believe it was
because of
improper placement of the alumina coated wads of clay.
The procelain that I use gets very soft at cone 11 and some
of the mugs
bottoms were pushed up significantly as the kiln reached
temperature.
With the balls off allignment this caused warping.
Is there a way to glue or otherwise insure proper placement
of the ball
or wads of clay?
The powdery alumina makes some of the things I tried
difficult. I thought
about putting some alumina hydrate into elmers glue and
gluing them on.
Does anyone out there have a better way?
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Dan Hill on thu 20 jan 00
Earl
What I do to get around this problem is mix up a batch of kilm wash, 4
parts alumina hydrate, 1 part epk, 1/2 part flour (baking). Mix this to
the consistentcy of sour cream. Using a notched trowel(As used for
spreading glue for setting tile 3/16") spread the mixture on the
shelves. Clean off the edges with a wet sponge and let it set up
overnight. Thats it, now you can set your pots directly on the shelves
and after the firing the wash comes off the shelves with a light
scraping.
You need to dampen the shelves before applying the mixture.
Hope this helps
Dan Hill
Eastern Ontario, Canada.
Earl Brunner wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> My problem deals with the placement of the balls of clay I
> put under pots
> in a salt or wood type firing. In my last firing I have
> about 50% of my mugs
> warp bad enough that I wouldn't sell them. I believe it was
> because of
> improper placement of the alumina coated wads of clay.
> The procelain that I use gets very soft at cone 11 and some
> of the mugs
> bottoms were pushed up significantly as the kiln reached
> temperature.
> With the balls off allignment this caused warping.
> Is there a way to glue or otherwise insure proper placement
> of the ball
> or wads of clay?
> The powdery alumina makes some of the things I tried
> difficult. I thought
> about putting some alumina hydrate into elmers glue and
> gluing them on.
> Does anyone out there have a better way?
> --
> Earl Brunner
> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
> mailto:bruec@anv.net
Stephen Grimmer on fri 21 jan 00
Earl,
We use equal parts EPK and Alumina by weight for wadding in the salt
kiln here, but don't roll them in anything. That way it is easier to glue
them to the pot bottoms right where you want them. Squirt some Elmer's on to
a bit of cardboard and dip the wads in that. The glue dries a bit on the
cardboard and sticks better.
steve
--
Steve Grimmer
Bowling Green State University
Bowling Green, OH
----------
>From: Earl Brunner
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: wads under pots
>Date: Wed, Jan 19, 2000, 4:35 PM
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> My problem deals with the placement of the balls of clay I
> put under pots
> in a salt or wood type firing. In my last firing I have
> about 50% of my mugs
> warp bad enough that I wouldn't sell them. I believe it was
> because of
> improper placement of the alumina coated wads of clay.
> The procelain that I use gets very soft at cone 11 and some
> of the mugs
> bottoms were pushed up significantly as the kiln reached
> temperature.
> With the balls off allignment this caused warping.
> Is there a way to glue or otherwise insure proper placement
> of the ball
> or wads of clay?
> The powdery alumina makes some of the things I tried
> difficult. I thought
> about putting some alumina hydrate into elmers glue and
> gluing them on.
> Does anyone out there have a better way?
> --
> Earl Brunner
> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
> mailto:bruec@anv.net
Jeremy/Bonnie Hellman on sat 22 jan 00
Hi Don,
At first I thought you were adding the baking flour to make a glue so wads
would stick to pots. You know the old children's glue of flour and water?
But then I read more carefully to see that you are using this as your kiln
wash.
What does the flour do? It obviously burns out early in the first firing. Is
it what allows the wash to be removed from the shelves with a "light
scraping"? or is it the notched trowel that does it?
Bonnie
Bonnie Hellman in Pittsburgh, PA
> From: Dan Hill
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 18:23:14 EST
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Re: wads under pots
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Earl
> What I do to get around this problem is mix up a batch of kilm wash, 4
> parts alumina hydrate, 1 part epk, 1/2 part flour (baking). Mix this to
> the consistentcy of sour cream. Using a notched trowel(As used for
> spreading glue for setting tile 3/16") spread the mixture on the
> shelves. Clean off the edges with a wet sponge and let it set up
> overnight. Thats it, now you can set your pots directly on the shelves
> and after the firing the wash comes off the shelves with a light
> scraping.
> You need to dampen the shelves before applying the mixture.
>
> Hope this helps
> Dan Hill
> Eastern Ontario, Canada.
>
>
> Earl Brunner wrote:
>>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>
>> My problem deals with the placement of the balls of clay I
>> put under pots
>> in a salt or wood type firing. In my last firing I have
>> about 50% of my mugs
>> warp bad enough that I wouldn't sell them. I believe it was
>> because of
>> improper placement of the alumina coated wads of clay.
>> The procelain that I use gets very soft at cone 11 and some
>> of the mugs
>> bottoms were pushed up significantly as the kiln reached
>> temperature.
>> With the balls off allignment this caused warping.
>> Is there a way to glue or otherwise insure proper placement
>> of the ball
>> or wads of clay?
>> The powdery alumina makes some of the things I tried
>> difficult. I thought
>> about putting some alumina hydrate into elmers glue and
>> gluing them on.
>> Does anyone out there have a better way?
>> --
>> Earl Brunner
>> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
>> mailto:bruec@anv.net
Dan Hill on mon 24 jan 00
Bonnie
The flour is there to give the mix am good consistency for spreading and
to hold the coating together during loading of the kiln. The flour acts
as a binder/hardener. An alternative to the flour would be wallpaper
paste(cellulose) which is what Jane Hamlin of the U.K. uses in her mix.
This coating is removed and replaced for each firing. It comes off the
shelves easily as powder.
Hope this helps
Dan Hill
Jeremy/Bonnie Hellman wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Don,
>
> At first I thought you were adding the baking flour to make a glue so wads
> would stick to pots. You know the old children's glue of flour and water?
> But then I read more carefully to see that you are using this as your kiln
> wash.
>
> What does the flour do? It obviously burns out early in the first firing. Is
> it what allows the wash to be removed from the shelves with a "light
> scraping"? or is it the notched trowel that does it?
>
> Bonnie
>
> Bonnie Hellman in Pittsburgh, PA
>
> > From: Dan Hill
> > Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> > Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 18:23:14 EST
> > To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> > Subject: Re: wads under pots
> >
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > Earl
> > What I do to get around this problem is mix up a batch of kilm wash, 4
> > parts alumina hydrate, 1 part epk, 1/2 part flour (baking). Mix this to
> > the consistentcy of sour cream. Using a notched trowel(As used for
> > spreading glue for setting tile 3/16") spread the mixture on the
> > shelves. Clean off the edges with a wet sponge and let it set up
> > overnight. Thats it, now you can set your pots directly on the shelves
> > and after the firing the wash comes off the shelves with a light
> > scraping.
> > You need to dampen the shelves before applying the mixture.
> >
> > Hope this helps
> > Dan Hill
> > Eastern Ontario, Canada.
> >
> >
> > Earl Brunner wrote:
> >>
> >> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >>
> >> My problem deals with the placement of the balls of clay I
> >> put under pots
> >> in a salt or wood type firing. In my last firing I have
> >> about 50% of my mugs
> >> warp bad enough that I wouldn't sell them. I believe it was
> >> because of
> >> improper placement of the alumina coated wads of clay.
> >> The procelain that I use gets very soft at cone 11 and some
> >> of the mugs
> >> bottoms were pushed up significantly as the kiln reached
> >> temperature.
> >> With the balls off allignment this caused warping.
> >> Is there a way to glue or otherwise insure proper placement
> >> of the ball
> >> or wads of clay?
> >> The powdery alumina makes some of the things I tried
> >> difficult. I thought
> >> about putting some alumina hydrate into elmers glue and
> >> gluing them on.
> >> Does anyone out there have a better way?
> >> --
> >> Earl Brunner
> >> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
> >> mailto:bruec@anv.net
I.Lewis on mon 24 jan 00
------------------
Subject: Re: wads under pots
Bat wash made with bread flour patterned with the serrated trowel leaves a
ploughed field effect. This lifts the pots and allows salt vapour to =
circulate
beneath. Clays which give that rich toasted effect get a pattern imprinted =
over
the base. As I said before, a new decorative dimension from Jane Hamlyn.
Ivor
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