Chris Schafale on tue 25 jan 00
I've tried hard to love the finger marks and tong marks in the glaze
as "evidence of making", but I just can't do it. So I find myself
doing an excessive (and dusty) amount of fettling and fiddling with
the glaze surface before firing, and I still have marks. Would
anyone care to share favorite tips, tools or techniques for "mark-
less" glazing? (other than spraying the glaze, please)
Chris
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, NC
candle@intrex.net
www.angelfire.com/nc2/candle (work in progress)
Cindy Strnad on wed 26 jan 00
Chris,
I'm not sure what kind of glazes you're using, but I've never had a problem
with tong marks on my glaze. It's just not an issue. I don't use a lot of
matte glazes, and maybe that's the reason. Any unevenness just smoothes over
in the firing. Maybe you'd like to try soaking your ware at or near the top
end of the firing. That might solve your problem as well as enhancing the
appearance of your glazes.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
Custer, SD
Don & Isao Morrill on wed 26 jan 00
At 13:25 1/25/00 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I've tried hard to love the finger marks and tong marks in the glaze
>as "evidence of making", but I just can't do it. So I find myself
>doing an excessive (and dusty) amount of fettling and fiddling with
>the glaze surface before firing, and I still have marks. Would
>anyone care to share favorite tips, tools or techniques for "mark-
>less" glazing? (other than spraying the glaze, please)
>
>Chris
>Light One Candle Pottery
>Fuquay-Varina, NC
>candle@intrex.net
>www.angelfire.com/nc2/candle (work in progress)
>
Chris, Dipping has always workedfor us. Although we have not
felt the need,those tongs with the dull points,would appear quite
useful.Proper glaze mix and viscosity,are also valuable. We have found that
most simple ,(and some complex) glazes improve with at least a 24hr soaking
at room temperature. Todays' glaze material are ground uniformly fine and
reasonable mixing and sieving will thoroughly mix the particles to an
intimate degree.
Don & Isao
Don & Isao Sanami Morrill
e-Mail:
elizabeth priddy on wed 26 jan 00
make sure that you have a receiving place for
the piece before you dip and then let go before
the glaze sets. It will fill in the mark.
Also practice holding the tongs such that you
can let go with one finger and the tong will
fall away so that it releases itself. you
will have to try it, there are only two
directions to hold it, so you will see what I mean if you physically try this.
good luck. you have to let go quickly
or it will drag.
---
Elizabeth Priddy
email: epriddy@usa.net
http://www.angelfire.com/nc/clayworkshop
Clay: 12,000 yrs and still fresh!
On Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:25:20 Chris Schafale wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I've tried hard to love the finger marks and tong marks in the glaze
>as "evidence of making", but I just can't do it. So I find myself
>doing an excessive (and dusty) amount of fettling and fiddling with
>the glaze surface before firing, and I still have marks. Would
>anyone care to share favorite tips, tools or techniques for "mark-
>less" glazing? (other than spraying the glaze, please)
>
>Chris
>Light One Candle Pottery
>Fuquay-Varina, NC
>candle@intrex.net
>www.angelfire.com/nc2/candle (work in progress)
>
--== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Antoinette Badenhorst on wed 26 jan 00
Chris, I guess that you need glazes with a good flux
and less opacifiers in them. Depending on what cone
you fire at,I have a very good white glaze recipe(^8)
that I will share. To that you can add color. So let
us know what cone you fire.
Antoinette.
--- Chris Schafale wrote:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> I've tried hard to love the finger marks and tong
> marks in the glaze
> as "evidence of making", but I just can't do it. So
> I find myself
> doing an excessive (and dusty) amount of fettling
> and fiddling with
> the glaze surface before firing, and I still have
> marks. Would
> anyone care to share favorite tips, tools or
> techniques for "mark-
> less" glazing? (other than spraying the glaze,
> please)
>
> Chris
> Light One Candle Pottery
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
> candle@intrex.net
> www.angelfire.com/nc2/candle (work in progress)
>
=====
Antoinette Badenhorst
PO Box 552
Saltillo,Mississippi
38866
Telephone (601) 869-1651
timakia@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
Maid O'Mud Pottery on wed 26 jan 00
A technique I learned at a glaze workshop is to blow on the drips, while
still holding the piece in the tongs. If you blow out the drip to a more or
less even spread, they won't show on the fired work. HOWEVER, I've never
tried this technique on majolica(sp?). I do fire in oxidation, which is
very unforgiving.
Chris Schafale wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've tried hard to love the finger marks and tong marks in the glaze
> as "evidence of making", but I just can't do it. So I find myself
> doing an excessive (and dusty) amount of fettling and fiddling with
> the glaze surface before firing, and I still have marks. Would
> anyone care to share favorite tips, tools or techniques for "mark-
> less" glazing? (other than spraying the glaze, please)
>
> Chris
> Light One Candle Pottery
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
> candle@intrex.net
> www.angelfire.com/nc2/candle (work in progress)
--
sam - alias the cat lady
SW Ontario CANADA
http://www.geocities.com/paris/3110 scuttell@odyssey.on.ca
"First, the clay told me what to do
Then, I told the clay what to do
Now; we co-operate"
sam, 1994
Peter Jones on thu 27 jan 00
One thing I tried a number of years ago to avoid tong marks was to take the
new tongs that were absolutely clean and dry and dip the head in very hot
wax. In this way, when you remove the dipped pot from the glaze, there's
not a whole of glaze left of the tongs to run down onto the pot and thus
leave tong marks behind. Alas, the wax on the tongs does ultimately wear
off and you have to re-dip in wax every now and then. There may be some
other material out there that won't wear off as quickly, such as a teflon
coating. I don't know what is out there. Maybe someone else has some ideas
about it.
Peter Jones
Chris Schafale on fri 28 jan 00
Hi Cindy,
You're fortunate in your choice of glazes. Many of mine are quite
sensitive to thickness (which makes them interesting to look at),
making a different shade of color in thicker spots, so glaze marks
typically show up as dots of thicker glaze, or sometimes as a
"bullseye" with thicker glaze around a thinner center. Soaking
does not solve this problem.
Chris
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Chris,
>
> I'm not sure what kind of glazes you're using, but I've never had a problem
> with tong marks on my glaze. It's just not an issue. I don't use a lot of
> matte glazes, and maybe that's the reason. Any unevenness just smoothes over
> in the firing. Maybe you'd like to try soaking your ware at or near the top
> end of the firing. That might solve your problem as well as enhancing the
> appearance of your glazes.
>
> Cindy Strnad
> Earthen Vessels Pottery
> Custer, SD
>
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, NC
candle@intrex.net
http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/candle (work in progress)
Jennifer Boyer on sat 29 jan 00
Hi All,
Like Chris, my glazes are prone to show thick and thin. I need
to minimize this since I do overglaze brushwork and tong marks
detract from the over all look.
I tried a few experiments today while glazing : I wasn't sure I
wanted to dip my tongs in my wax(the cold kind) so I tried
spraying my tongs with Armorall and also with Silicone spray.
The latter seemed to shed glaze pretty well. Not perfect, but
the tong marks were smaller. When I'm done glazing a pot, I use
a little piece of sand paper and smooth the tong marks. This
flattens the whole area, pushing glaze into the tong holes if
they are deep, and evening the tong marks with the surrounding
glaze. Again, it isn't foolproof but is better than
nothing......I think I'll try the wax aproach with my tongs next
time, although I wonder whether the wax would get on the pot...
Hope this helps.
Jennifer
Chris Schafale wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Cindy,
>
> You're fortunate in your choice of glazes. Many of mine are quite
> sensitive to thickness (which makes them interesting to look at),
> making a different shade of color in thicker spots, so glaze marks
> typically show up as dots of thicker glaze, or sometimes as a
> "bullseye" with thicker glaze around a thinner center. Soaking
> does not solve this problem.
>
> Chris
>
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer jfboyer@sover.net
Thistle Hill Pottery
Vermont USA
http://www.vermontcrafts.com/members/ThistleHill.html
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
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