Jim &Lisa Blake on tue 15 feb 00
Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
Karin Hurt on wed 16 feb 00
slump
Cheryl Tall on wed 16 feb 00
Dear Jim and Lisa: I attended a wonderful Bill Daley workshop when I was at
University of Miami and he had us make geometrical molds for clay from
cardboard. Simply measure and cut the cardboard to the size required. Leave
extra cardboard for tabs for joining. Join the cardboard with hot glue.
Create an identical form out of tar paper. Place the tar paper form inside
the cardboard form and use as a press mold I remember making a square plate
in this way and it worked great.
Cheryl Tall
Stuart, Florida
Jim &Lisa Blake wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
Patricia Sannit on wed 16 feb 00
-> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
-> Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
I make square plates using a slump mold of sorts. I cut a 12" or so square
out of 3/4" plywood, and then cut out a round center of an appropriate
diameter. To make matching bowls, I stack two forms. It's pretty
low-tech, but it's worked for me for years.
The Brinks on wed 16 feb 00
Jim & Lisa,
One way is to throw rather shallow plates and cut the edges off to form
squares. It helps to make a simple template. If the plates can have
slightly rounded corners, you won't have to throw them quite as large.
The thrown shape will be less apt to warp, in my opinion, plus the throwing
lines look nice on a square shape. Of course I (One) lean towards throwing
anything I can, instead of using other methods, and (Two) don't have a
slab-roller.
Ann Brink
Lompoc CA
Doing a bisque-firing tonight, including a single fired glazed urn for my
husband's aunt, who died peacefully last week at age 97. She spent most of
her life in another town in CA, and will be inurned there next week in a
pot made of clay picked up in this town where she spent her last five
years. Better stop before my addendum is longer than the subject of the
reply!
At 06:12 PM 2/15/00 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
>
>
Jim & Lisa,
One way is to throw rather shallow plates and cut the edges off to form
squares. It helps to make a simple template. If the plates can have
slightly rounded corners, you won't have to throw them quite as large.
The thrown shape will be less apt to warp, in my opinion, plus the throwing
lines look nice on a square shape. Of course I (One) lean towards throwing
anything I can, instead of using other methods, and (Two) don't have a
slab-roller.
Ann Brink
Lompoc CA
Doing a bisque-firing tonight, including a single fired glazed urn for my
husband's aunt, who died peacefully last week at age 97. She spent most of
her life in another town in CA, and will be inurned there next week in a
pot made of clay picked up in this town where she spent her last five
years. Better stop before my addendum is longer than the subject of the
reply!
e-mail billann@impulse.net
Wendy Hampton on wed 16 feb 00
I have been working on that problem for a long time. Trying to find
something that I could use as a slump mold that has the correct curvature. I
went to Bullseye Glass Factory in Portland a couple of weeks ago and they
have some wonderful molds for their glass slumping. Found a prefect square
plate mold.
Wendy
Susan Davy on wed 16 feb 00
I make them...found hump to work best...Susan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
> Of Jim &Lisa Blake
> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 5:13 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: square plates
>
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
>
The Buchanans on wed 16 feb 00
These are directions for wheel thrown square plates. Throw a bottomless
cylinder the diameter of the plates you wish to make and about 1 inch
taller. Three plates can be cut from each cylinder when it is leather
hard.(pi is close enough to 3 as to make little difference) when the
cylinder is leather hard cut it an inch or so above the base. Carefully move
it to a ware board and divide it into thirds from top to bottom. Use a
template to slightly round the corners.Then smooth and round the rims. If
the plate seem too dished, turn it over and paddle the base a bit. Apply a
foot ring.( a coil circle or throw one on the plate) Dry slowly upside
down.
Judi Buchanan
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim &Lisa Blake
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 3:12 PM
Subject: square plates
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
Linda Blossom on thu 17 feb 00
I have two ways of making plates. One is over a hump mold made from 3/4
pink foamboard. I had a woodworker friend who used a table saw to cut it so
that the plate had an angled rim about 1-1/2 " wide. The other way I make
them is to use a flat tool to raise the rim by curling the clay up. I use
short pieces of round foam (peanuts would work) to hold the corners up until
the clay can stay up on its own. I smooth the bottoms when it is not quite
leather hard. This type I have made in two square sizes and a rectangle
size that is good for sandwiches.
Linda Blossom
2366 Slaterville Rd
Ithaca, NY 14850
607-539-7912
blossom@twcny.rr.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim &Lisa Blake
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 6:10 PM
Subject: square plates
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
Kathi LeSueur on thu 17 feb 00
All of my dinnerware is square. I make forms from Dow blue foam board. It
comes in various thicknesses, can be cut with a small band saw, and can be
sanded. I drape over the clay rather than in it for a cleaner edge. The
plates come out so crisp and uniform that I'm often accused of RAM pressing
them.
Kathi LeSueur
Ann Arbor, MI
Earl Brunner on thu 17 feb 00
If I can discribe this right, it is a great way to make square, rectangle or
multi sided plates.
get a board slightly larger than the plate you wish to make. get some wood
molding (like base board) from a lumberyard. Cut the molding on the correct
angles to make your sides, glue and nail the molding onto the board. Make a sla
larger than your form. Lay it on the form and slam the form onto the floor or
table top(may need to do mor than once. The clay will settle into the form and
you can have a nice raised rim around the outside.
Cheryl Tall wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Jim and Lisa: I attended a wonderful Bill Daley workshop when I was at
> University of Miami and he had us make geometrical molds for clay from
> cardboard. Simply measure and cut the cardboard to the size required. Leave
> extra cardboard for tabs for joining. Join the cardboard with hot glue.
> Create an identical form out of tar paper. Place the tar paper form inside
> the cardboard form and use as a press mold I remember making a square plate
> in this way and it worked great.
>
> Cheryl Tall
> Stuart, Florida
>
> Jim &Lisa Blake wrote:
>
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Gail Dapogny on thu 17 feb 00
Dick Lehmann gave a workshop at our potters' guild several years ago, and
had us doing something similar to the below but we cut shapes(square, oval,
etc.) with a jigsaw out of styrofoam. You can even adjust the saw blade at
an angle to get an angled cut on the inside. Then cover with a piece of
thin cloth, followed by the draped clay, and slam it!
---
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>-> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>-> Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
>
>
>I make square plates using a slump mold of sorts. I cut a 12" or so square
>out of 3/4" plywood, and then cut out a round center of an appropriate
>diameter. To make matching bowls, I stack two forms. It's pretty
>low-tech, but it's worked for me for years.
Gail Dapogny
1154 Olden Road
Ann Arbor, MI 48103-3005
(734) 665-9816
gdapogny@umich.edu
Louise Jenks on thu 17 feb 00
In a message dated 02/15/2000 6:13:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jnlblake@sover.net writes:
<< ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
>>
I go to the local "paint your own greenware" store and buy their square
bisque plates and use them as slump molds.
Louise
Louise Jenks
Cincinnati OH USA
LJTCW@AOL.COM
Huske Christina on thu 17 feb 00
Have you tried Wal-mart or the $ store. I found square plastic plates and
other forms of all sizes (right now I am slumping around a fish plate (84
cents @ W-mart)). I use WD40 on the plate so the clay won't stick and trim
around the edge with a cheese slicer. Good luck. and don't forget garage
sales in the spring
-----Original Message-----
From: Wendy Hampton [mailto:WHampton@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 6:46 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Re: square plates
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have been working on that problem for a long time. Trying to find
something that I could use as a slump mold that has the correct curvature.
I
went to Bullseye Glass Factory in Portland a couple of weeks ago and they
have some wonderful molds for their glass slumping. Found a prefect square
plate mold.
Wendy
Stephen Mills on fri 18 feb 00
Stretch a piece of canvas across the four feet of an upside-down
stool/chair (drawing pins) and lay your piece of sheet clay on that. The
subtle curve it takes on in the depression on the canvas caused by its
own weight is just right for a "usable" plate!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Jim &Lisa Blake writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk
Tel: **44 (0)1225 311699
Fax: **44 (0)870 0526466
Elca Branman on fri 18 feb 00
I've made square and rectangular plates by cutting a slab and rolling 3/4
or 1 inch dowels,(4) ,one on each side to angle up the sides.. This
gives you a soft curve.if each dowel butts up to the next dowel on the
corners, you don't even need length specific dowels
For a sharper curves, I use a wooden board , cut to size and wrapped in
thin foam ..
I lay the slab on the board and holding it up, or setting it on a brick
or two, I use a wooden slat to paddle the sides down. I then reverse it,
setting the plate on its bottom and once again the dowels roll under to
keep the rims from remembering they were once flat slabs.
When ;leather hard, I hold the plates at an angle against my work table
and use a knife to cut them obliquely..You can also surform them to get
the angle you like.Yes, a picture is worth 1 thousand words
but,descriptively, without pictures, this is the best i can do
Elca.. at home in Sarasota,Florida,USA
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Linda Paul on fri 18 feb 00
I just learned a technique for making square plates on the wheel. The
technique is simple but describing it is a bit tricky. Since I haven't seen
this technique covered in other posts on this thread, I'll give it a shot:
1. Throw the plate in the usual fashion but stop before angling the rim down.
2. Stop the wheel and mark off four equidistant corners on the rim of the
wet plate
(the teacher held a square bat over the plate using the four points to
help
with placing the shallow marks).
3. Now, working between two marks, fold the rim over onto itself, pressing
down
from the top of the roll and working your way down in order to avoid
trapping air.
Do this gently to avoid pushing down on the very soft clay. Do this four
times.
4. Start the wheel at a slow speed, and, using a rubber rib, GENTLY push down
on the rim as it revolves around the wheel using your hand underneath
for
support. Since the clay is still very wet, all will smooth out nicely in
a few
turns of the wheel.
5. Voila! Square plate.
I liked the look of the plates better when they weren't completely squared
off. To use this slight variation, roll over only the center part of the rim
between the marks leaving about an inch on either side of the fold over that
is not touched.
Try it! It's fun and it really is easier than it sounds.
Linda Paul
TheClosetPotter@aol.com
New York, NY
Pottery by Dai on fri 18 feb 00
Hi, Kathi - your message "I drape over the clay rather than in it for a
cleaner edge" is confusing me. I'm trying to picture how you do this; can
you explain it in more detail? The only way I know of to use a form such as
you describe is to drape the clay over the form, but it soulds like you're
draping the form over the clay - ?? Maybe my mind just isn't working right!
Dai in Kelowna, B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kathi LeSueur
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Thursday, February 17, 2000 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: square plates
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>All of my dinnerware is square. I make forms from Dow blue foam board. It
>comes in various thicknesses, can be cut with a small band saw, and can be
>sanded. I drape over the clay rather than in it for a cleaner edge. The
>plates come out so crisp and uniform that I'm often accused of RAM pressing
>them.
>
>Kathi LeSueur
>Ann Arbor, MI
Marcia Selsor on fri 18 feb 00
Square plates can be thrown by throwing a low wide lip bowl and folding
the lip back over into the pot from four directions. Rib the surface smooth.
Marci in Montana
76 days to retirement!!!!!!!
Louise Jenks wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> In a message dated 02/15/2000 6:13:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> jnlblake@sover.net writes:
>
> << ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
>
> >>
> I go to the local "paint your own greenware" store and buy their square
> bisque plates and use them as slump molds.
> Louise
>
> Louise Jenks
> Cincinnati OH USA
> LJTCW@AOL.COM
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/selsor/welcome.html
Anji Henderson on fri 18 feb 00
Let's see about the what ever from the message... :)
Why not make the square, let it set to almost leather
hard, and cut carrots out of each corner, Join add a
foot square and either fire or make a mold.. :)
Anji
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Lee Love on fri 18 feb 00
At the first pottery I working in, here in Mashiko (I worked there for two
and a half months), the most interesting thing I learned was what they
taught all the new employees in the beginning: making plates, sushi
platters and pickle dishes just using a cutout, some newspaper and extruded
clay coils (hebi nendo = clay snake.)
Most of the templates were cut out of light plywood and were either squares
or rectangles or rounded cornered squares or rectangles, but you could
actually use any shape and cut them out of card board. The clay is
smoothed with a metal scraper on both sides. you then lay it on 3 sheets
of paper on a board,the paper is a little bigger than the slab you use (we
cut the slabs from a block of clay, using a cutting wire and cutting slats).
Lay the template down and cut the shape you want. Remove the excess
clay. Then, take come clay snake and put it under the edge of the clay
shape, so that half of the snake is covered by the edge of the slab. On
square or rectangular shapes, you lay snakes at parallel ends, and then you
lay the two other sides, with the ends crossing the first snakes. The
snakes should be under two sheets of paper, and on top of the bottom sheet.
Next, take a cotton bag filled with cornstarch (tie the end with a rubber
band to hold the starch in) and smooth the slap from the middle to the
edge. To get a nice smooth surface on the wall of the outside of the
plate, lift the two pieces of paper and roll the cornstarch bag into the
edge, toward the clay snake. When you have all the edges the way you want
them, slide the form off of the board with the paper and snakes intact and
leave it out to dry. When it is dry, you can smooth the edges with a
shammie.
Where I work now, I am developing a new respect for molded work.
I work next to the retired Forman who makes most of the molded bottles,
jars, bowls, etc. Right now, he is making little calligraphy water
droppers. I think he does most of the production of these molded forms
and does the finishing, but the Sensei does the enamel work on them. I
want to learn the mold work so my wife can make her own work and do he
decoration on them. The slab work would also be nice flat surfaces for
her to put her imagery on.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Randall Moody on fri 18 feb 00
You could throw them round a bit larger than you want and then cut the plate
to a square shape when it is leather hard.
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Does anyone have advice on making square plates...slump, hump or whatever?
Nora Robbins on sat 19 feb 00
You can easily make square or other shaped plates by using the stretcher
frames painters use for their stretched canvases, available in various
lengths from art supply stores. Assemble the four lengths of stretcher wood
and place the entire structure on a ware board. Then place a slab of clay to
your desired thickness over the stretched expanse. Pick up the entire
structure, board and all, and drop in onto your table top or floor from about
10" to plop the clay into the slumped form. You may need to drop it 2 or 3
times as desired. Trim off the excess, either at the edge of the wood strip
or cut your edge to what ever width you desire. Let the plates dry in these
frames until a hard leather, then you can remove them and clean up the edges,
etc. Bowl shapes can be formed by stacking two sets of forms, one on top of
the other to give depth.
You can easily experiment with sizes and shapes by buying a variety of
stretcher lengths. And the stretcher frames are inexpensive.
Nora from Miami
Kathi LeSueur on sat 19 feb 00
In a message dated 2/18/00 11:01:11 AM, potterybydai@home.com writes:
<< Hi, Kathi - your message "I drape over the clay rather than in it for a
cleaner edge" is confusing me. I'm trying to picture how you do this; can
you explain it in more detail? The only way I know of to use a form such as
you describe is to drape the clay over the form, but it soulds like you're
draping the form over the clay - ?? Maybe my mind just isn't working right!
Dai in Kelowna, B.C. >>
The slab pieces I make all have about a 3/4 inch lip. To make the form I use
two pieces of foam glued together with white glue. The bottom piece is 1/2 "
form cut to the outside dimensions of the piece (edges are cut square). The
second piece is cut on a 45 degree angle and forms the inside shape of the
piece.
I roll out a slab and drape it over the form. Using a sponge I smooth it down
and bevel the edge. I drag a paper hanging blade over what will be the bottom
to get a clean, flat bottom. As the clay dries it will pop away from the form
at the edges. At that point remove it from the form and finish the edges. I
use a cheese cutter to bevel the edge and then smooth with a dampened sponge.
Dry face down on foam and warping will be minimal if at all.
Good luck,
Kathi LeSueur
Expecting 6-10 inches of snow today in Ann Arbor
Joyce Lee on sat 19 feb 00
I haven't seen this mentioned and I'm not at all sure it's considered
potterly or artly to do.......but I throw the round plate as usual,
making the rim somewhat wider than I customarily do, then paddle the rim
into a square. I paddle first one side, then the one directly opposite,
holding the first side to give it a little support. Then the third side
and the fourth. I examine the rim for unevenness and whap it some more.
This is how I create square bowls, too. Most look and fire fine. They
look much better when I'm not trying to cover up a slightly miswarped
rim, but am paddling and squaring a well-constructed, round plate or
bowl. What do I use? A light, small paddle......something like a
pingpong paddle but smaller and lighter.
Joyce
In the Mojave jealous of Milton finding the roadrunner's nest on his
property. I've observed the young ones but never the nest. I've seen the
hummingbird's teeny nest sitting precariously on a cactus, with the mama
hummingbird perched on top. She scowled but let me pet her... probably
because she had eggs beneath her or babies and was protecting them. I
loved the experience even so......AND an almost equally delicious
experience was driving down from Tehacahpi Pass tonight coming east into
the desert, the moon was so full it felt as if we were going to lift off
and land smack in its middle........
Pancioli on sat 19 feb 00
Two chapters in my "about to be released" book "Extruded Ceramics"
discuss ways you could create square plates: one way is to use
extrusion as rim support, the other is to use extrusion to make molds
for press molding. I am sorry to say that I don't know what is holding
up the release of the book. I actually have one copy, so for sure it
exists and I assume will be released very soon.
Diana
Lee Love on sat 19 feb 00
Hi Curtis (I'll send a copy to ClayArt because I've received other questions
from there),
A quick note for now. (I'm moving the big stuff to our new
house/studio today. And English potter from Kasama is coming over to help
with his big van.)
You can make the snakes follow the exact shape of the slab, (I
typoed slap for slab before) but it isn't necessary. For some reason,
all the sides are the same, even if the parallel side snakes overlap the
first ones. The snakes go under two of the papers, but over one paper.
You need two papers for strength under the slab because otherwise they get
wet and fall apart. The snakes I used were a little under an inch in
circumference.
You pat with the cornstarch bag, otherwise, you smudge the clay.
The cloth bag gives the plate a nice texture.
You lift the paper at the edge of the slab to give the side a nice
curve and so that you don't imprint the snake on the outside edge. If
you don't lift the paper toward the bag when you get to the edge, you with
have a concaved.
The paper under the snakes is so that you can move the snakes and
the slab together, after you are finished shaping. The snakes remain with
the plate until it is hard enough to hold its shape. At that time, you
smooth the edges with a shammie.
Hope this clarifies my post. Please write with more questions if
it didn't. :^) My wife is going to clobber me if I don't get off of my
"Toy" and start packing. ;^)
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan Ikiru@Kami.com
Lee Love on sat 19 feb 00
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee Love
> You lift the paper at the edge of the slab to give the side a nice
> curve and so that you don't imprint the snake on the outside edge. If
> you don't lift the paper toward the bag when you get to the edge, you with
> have a concaved.
>
Sorry, this should read "... a concaved indentation on the outside of the
edge of the wall..."
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan ikiru@kami.com
Nils Lou on sun 20 feb 00
I've completed the production of a video series and will introduce them at
NCECA. Axner will be the national distributor.
The series in three, one hour tapes is titled: "On the Wheel with Nils
Lou" $45 each tape
In tape TWO I demonstrate the throwing of square plates on the wheel as
well as oval, upside down, teapots and goblets. Nils
Elca Branman on sat 26 jan 02
I use 2 different methods, depending upon whether i want a size matched
set, or one of a size.
When I do one of a kind, I use one inch dowelsm cut to about a foot in
length.
I roll the lab, flip on to cloth, cut to size, and then insert the dowels
under each side..Now i don't know how to describe varying in lngeth, but
each dowel butts one end only against the next dowel..this means you can
arrange the sizes and adjust to your pleasure..
--------------i
i i
i i
i i
i--------------
i
When I an making a set, I use a thin piece if plywood, cut to size and
thin foam rubber stappled over one side and all the ends.
After my clay slab is cut to size and FIRMED UP, I lay it over the foam,
and use a paddle or slab of wood to bang the sides into the angle i
want., and then put the dowels under
The most important information i have ever been given about clay is "Clay
is the boss", which means that doing all these things requires doing them
at the right time for the clay.. like Goldilocks' cereal, when it is just
right.
After they have really stiffened, I take them off , angles the cut edges
and voils, a great surface for eating or decorating.. Hope this is
clear......doing diagrams on the computer makes my brain ache. Elca
On Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:06:22 -0800 "Kathleen Gordon"
writes:
> so how do you make your rectangular plates???
>
>
>
> Kathleen Gordon
> kjgordon1@hotmail.com
>
> "if things seem under control you are not going fast enough."
> "Mario Andretti
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device:
> http://mobile.msn.com
>
Elca Branman.. in Sarasota,Florida,USA
elcab1@juno.com
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