Carrie or Peter Jacobson on sun 20 feb 00
Trouble, here I come.
I throw with cone 6 porcelain. Or, since the discussion about cone 6
porcelain/not porcelain, let me say, I throw with a white grolleg clay that
Miller identifies as cone 6 porcelain.
A couple days ago, a friend on this list told me that a large bowl I'd
thrown and given her was translucent, one of the attributes that "real"
porcelain is supposed to have, but cone 6 porcelain is supposed to not have.
Frankly, I didn't really fully believe her. This was a bowl I'd thrown
pretty long ago, ad it was not particularly thin, and, really, long before
all the discussion on ClayArt, I'd given up on translucency. I thought you
had to go to cone 10, and pretty much not glaze to get translucency. And
throw paper-thin.
But yesterday, she showed me, held it up in front of the window. We looked
at some of my other pieces, too, and sure as shooting, the light shines
right through. Shines through enough that I could be making lampshades or
sconces.
So all you cone 6 porcelain types out there, don't believe everything you
read on ClayArt (though you can believe this e!)
Carrie Jacobson
Pawcatuck, CT
Lois Ruben Aronow on mon 21 feb 00
------------------
=3EI throw with cone 6 porcelain. Or, since the discussion about cone 6
=3Eporcelain/not porcelain, let me say, I throw with a white grolleg clay =
that
=3EMiller identifies as cone 6 porcelain.
I also throw with =5E6 grolleg porcelain. I use Standard 365 and
Kickwheel's grolleg =5E6.
The fired body is very luminescent, as well as translucent. All our
normal studio glazes look GREAT on this clay=21
=3ESo all you cone 6 porcelain types out there, don't believe everything you
=3Eread on ClayArt (though you can believe this e=21)
I sometimes toy with the idea of going up to cone 10 porcelain
(because it's =22real=22) but I am very happy with my =5E6. I can't imagine
any of the people who buy my work (or even admire it) can tell the
difference.
Lois Ruben Aronow
=2A=2A=2A=2A=2A=2A=2A
gilois=40earthlink.net
Norman van der Sluys on mon 21 feb 00
It seems like the moral of this story is that what counts is not the temperature
of the firing or the cone that goes down, but the effect that is achieved. Many
potters today appear to fire to high temperatures to achieve in a short time the
effects earlier potters got at a lower temperature but a slower firng. Materials
differ as well. Contemporary potters using mineral glazes seek to recreate ash
glazes of the past. What we call porcelain today is a European imitation of the
Chinese original, using different materials. I would just call it porcelain.
That would be as accurate as those using the term for their cone 10 material!
Or, if you must make a distinction, borrow the syntax of the computer world and
call it virtual porcelain.
Norman van der Sluys
Lois Ruben Aronow wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> ------------------
>
> >I throw with cone 6 porcelain. Or, since the discussion about cone 6
> >porcelain/not porcelain, let me say, I throw with a white grolleg clay that
> >Miller identifies as cone 6 porcelain.
>
> I also throw with ^6 grolleg porcelain. I use Standard 365 and
> Kickwheel's grolleg ^6.
>
> The fired body is very luminescent, as well as translucent. All our
> normal studio glazes look GREAT on this clay!
>
> >So all you cone 6 porcelain types out there, don't believe everything you
> >read on ClayArt (though you can believe this e!)
>
> I sometimes toy with the idea of going up to cone 10 porcelain
> (because it's "real") but I am very happy with my ^6. I can't imagine
> any of the people who buy my work (or even admire it) can tell the
> difference.
> Lois Ruben Aronow
> *******
> gilois@earthlink.net
PotterSmiths' on sun 27 feb 00
I have also thrown with cone 6 grolleg porcelain and gotten translucency,
and have found the ware to be very strong. Can get some very nice glazes
also, however I still prefer higher temperatures. I don't know what that's
about...
Thanks for the post.
Kate Smith
Phil & Kate Smith
White Bear Lake MN
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
Of Carrie or Peter Jacobson
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 1:30 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: cone 6 porcelain
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Trouble, here I come.
I throw with cone 6 porcelain. Or, since the discussion about cone 6
porcelain/not porcelain, let me say, I throw with a white grolleg clay that
Miller identifies as cone 6 porcelain.
A couple days ago, a friend on this list told me that a large bowl I'd
thrown and given her was translucent, one of the attributes that "real"
porcelain is supposed to have, but cone 6 porcelain is supposed to not have.
Frankly, I didn't really fully believe her. This was a bowl I'd thrown
pretty long ago, ad it was not particularly thin, and, really, long before
all the discussion on ClayArt, I'd given up on translucency. I thought you
had to go to cone 10, and pretty much not glaze to get translucency. And
throw paper-thin.
But yesterday, she showed me, held it up in front of the window. We looked
at some of my other pieces, too, and sure as shooting, the light shines
right through. Shines through enough that I could be making lampshades or
sconces.
So all you cone 6 porcelain types out there, don't believe everything you
read on ClayArt (though you can believe this e!)
Carrie Jacobson
Pawcatuck, CT
Dale A. Neese on wed 16 aug 00
Pete Pinnell Porcelain Cone 6
Tenn Ball Clay 25
#6 Tile Clay 25
Silica 25
Custar Spar 25
Bentonite 1%
Soak Bentonite before adding to clay.
EPK Porcelain Cone 6
Nepheline Syenite 33
EPKaolin 24
Silica 30
OM#4 Ball Clay 14
Bentonite 3
Wollastonite 3
Nancy Galland on tue 7 nov 00
I am new to porcelain, and am using a cone 6 grolleg. I am starting from
scratch on looking for glazes to be fired in oxidation in an electric kiln.
What do I look for in a glaze recipe that will tell me it will fit a ^6
porcelain body? Can I use recipes that friends who use ^6 stoneware have
given me with any confidence? What do you suggest for a bisque temp. for
this ^6 porcelain?
Marcia Selsor on tue 7 nov 00
Basically it is the oxides used for colors that make the big difference
in oxidation versus reduction.
Try the glazes and see hoe thwy fit your clay body.
Marcia
Nancy Galland wrote:
>
> I am new to porcelain, and am using a cone 6 grolleg. I am starting from
> scratch on looking for glazes to be fired in oxidation in an electric kiln.
> What do I look for in a glaze recipe that will tell me it will fit a ^6
> porcelain body? Can I use recipes that friends who use ^6 stoneware have
> given me with any confidence? What do you suggest for a bisque temp. for
> this ^6 porcelain?
>
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--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/selsor/welcome.html
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