Janet Kaiser on thu 9 mar 00
------------------
Whilst I have been off-line there have been several posts on various aspects=
of
using wax resist. What struck me with these posts and others in the past has
been the omission of the recipe I was given and always used:
Equal parts quality beeswax candle and a thin machine oil.
This makes a mixture which can be kept warm and fluid safely over a low =
burner,
preferably in an old fashioned glue-pot. It is safer than the wax and
paraffin/kerosene mix which is flammable. I imagine that this could also be
stained for the person looking for coloured black resist printing medium,
although it seems to me that a design printed with slip or underglaze =
pigment
directly onto leatherhard of biscuit pots would be easier and not random.
Because the wax burns off, surely the stain would be pretty patchy?
Certainly my mix can be used on raw glaze for various glaze-over-glaze
techniques.
However, I do not understand why wax needs to be mixed in with glaze as
suggested in one post. The most intricate designs can be achieved from =
glazing
first, then applying wax resist, then glazing with a second glaze and even a
third. With the addition of oxides or stains painted on at any stage where
necessary, I do not see where the glaze should or need be resist. Or am I
missing something here?
Janet Kaiser ... Where the clouds are down at roof-top level but the =
daffodils
are in full bloom.
The Chapel of Art, Criccieth LL52 0EA, GB-Wales
Home of The International Potters Path
TEL: (01766) 523570
WEB: http://www.the-coa.org.uk
EMAIL: postbox=40the-coa.org.uk
Cheryl L Litman on fri 10 mar 00
Janet,
I use the cold wax from Ceramic Supply in NJ. The few times I've tried
to glaze, brush on wax as a resist and glaze over it, the second glaze
beaded up and stuck to the wax. I figured I just didn't let it dry
enough so the next time I didn't put the second coat of glaze on until
the next day. Still stuck in a lot of places.
Has anyone else had success with cold wax or can't it be done?
Cheryl Litman ---------- Somerset, NJ --------- email:
cheryllitman@juno.com
*** I have only one problem while dieting....food***
On Thu, 9 Mar 2000 16:23:52 EST Janet Kaiser
writes:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> ------------------
> Whilst I have been off-line there have been several posts on various
> aspects=
> of
> using wax resist. What struck me with these posts and others in the
> past has
> been the omission of the recipe I was given and always used:
>
> Equal parts quality beeswax candle and a thin machine oil.
>
> This makes a mixture which can be kept warm and fluid safely over a
> low =
> burner,
> preferably in an old fashioned glue-pot. It is safer than the wax
> and
> paraffin/kerosene mix which is flammable. I imagine that this could
> also be
> stained for the person looking for coloured black resist printing
> medium,
> although it seems to me that a design printed with slip or
> underglaze =
> pigment
> directly onto leatherhard of biscuit pots would be easier and not
> random.
> Because the wax burns off, surely the stain would be pretty patchy?
>
> Certainly my mix can be used on raw glaze for various
> glaze-over-glaze
> techniques.
>
> However, I do not understand why wax needs to be mixed in with glaze
> as
> suggested in one post. The most intricate designs can be achieved
> from =
> glazing
> first, then applying wax resist, then glazing with a second glaze
> and even a
> third. With the addition of oxides or stains painted on at any stage
> where
> necessary, I do not see where the glaze should or need be resist. Or
> am I
> missing something here?
>
> Janet Kaiser ... Where the clouds are down at roof-top level but the
> =
> daffodils
> are in full bloom.
> The Chapel of Art, Criccieth LL52 0EA, GB-Wales
> Home of The International Potters Path
> TEL: (01766) 523570
> WEB: http://www.the-coa.org.uk
> EMAIL: postbox=40the-coa.org.uk
Cheryl Litman ---------- Somerset, NJ --------- email:
cheryllitman@juno.com
*** I have only one problem while dieting....food***
David Cowdrill on fri 10 mar 00
I have tried to apply wax over glaze, but found a major problem: As the
wax dried it pulled the dry glaze away from the pot, curling up like
ancient paper tape. This occurred with two different glazes. The wax was
a commercial product. I would appreciate any advice on solving this problem.
> However, I do not understand why wax needs to be mixed in with glaze as
> suggested in one post. The most intricate designs can be achieved from
glazing
> first, then applying wax resist, then glazing with a second glaze and even a
> third. With the addition of oxides or stains painted on at any stage where
> necessary, I do not see where the glaze should or need be resist.
David Cowdrill in Great Falls, Virginia
Russel Fouts on fri 10 mar 00
Janet,
>> However, I do not understand why wax needs to be mixed in with glaze as
suggested in one post. The most intricate designs can be achieved from
glazing first, then applying wax resist, then glazing with a second glaze
and even a third. With the addition of oxides or stains painted on at any
stage where necessary, I do not see where the glaze should or need be
resist. Or am I missing something here? <<
You're missing the opportunity to explore a whole different avenue for
resist. Have a look at my stuff, I mix sig with different kinds of resist a
lot. I've also done it with slips, glazes and colorants (not recently).
When you "water down" your resist to make it more permeable or just use more
permeable resists you can get a world of different effects. Think out of the
box, experiment. Try watering down white glue with either water or sig. Add
colorants, use acrylic floor wax, etc. Have a ball!!
I also do paper resist with the paper soaked in sig, then more sig sprayed
over that. That's how I did the white plate on my site.
Would love to send you a couple of tiles but my work won't stand the
weather, let alone being trod upon.
Russel (am I subversive?) Fouts
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
http://www.Japan-Net.ne.jp/~iwcat
Cantello Studios on sat 11 mar 00
By mixing wax and glaze together first you can draw with it on the pot then
dip the hole thing in a glaze. I have seen things like stick figures in
copper red running through a black plate. The thing that is cool about this
is its much faster then trying to hand paint wax over a very small line of
glaze without it rolling off the glaze and on to the pot. See the pot has no
glaze on it its just bisque. The only way to do this is a 50 \ 50 mix of
glaze and wax the easy way is to scrape the glaze off the side of the bucket
and mix it with the wax.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
Of David Cowdrill
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 12:48 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Re: Wax resist for glaze and printing
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have tried to apply wax over glaze, but found a major problem: As the
wax dried it pulled the dry glaze away from the pot, curling up like
ancient paper tape. This occurred with two different glazes. The wax was
a commercial product. I would appreciate any advice on solving this
problem.
> However, I do not understand why wax needs to be mixed in with glaze as
> suggested in one post. The most intricate designs can be achieved from
glazing
> first, then applying wax resist, then glazing with a second glaze and even
a
> third. With the addition of oxides or stains painted on at any stage where
> necessary, I do not see where the glaze should or need be resist.
David Cowdrill in Great Falls, Virginia
Janet Kaiser on sat 11 mar 00
Cheryl,
But did you fire it? The thing with wax is that although the glaze may have
beaded onto it initially, that does not mean to say it would not have
"rolled off" during the firing. As Russel F. said recently, experimentation
is a key factor and can created some pretty surprising and exciting effects.
Janet Kaiser... Still chunnering on about Big Business.
The Chapel of Art, Criccieth LL52 0EA, GB-Wales
Home of The International Potters Path
TEL: (01766) 523570
WEB: http://www.the-coa.org.uk
EMAIL: postbox@the-coa.org.uk
----- Original Message -----
> I use the cold wax from Ceramic Supply in NJ. The few times I've tried
> to glaze, brush on wax as a resist and glaze over it, the second glaze
> beaded up and stuck to the wax. I figured I just didn't let it dry
> enough so the next time I didn't put the second coat of glaze on until
> the next day. Still stuck in a lot of places.
>
> Has anyone else had success with cold wax or can't it be done?
ababy sharon on sun 12 mar 00
Hello David!
I suggest to you to add 0.5-1% cmc to glazes that might peel off. It
strengths the glaze and vanishes in the firing like the wax.
Ababi
----- Original Message -----
From: David Cowdrill
To:
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 10:48
Subject: Re: Wax resist for glaze and printing
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have tried to apply wax over glaze, but found a major problem: As the
> wax dried it pulled the dry glaze away from the pot, curling up like
> ancient paper tape. This occurred with two different glazes. The wax was
> a commercial product. I would appreciate any advice on solving this
problem.
>
> > However, I do not understand why wax needs to be mixed in with glaze as
> > suggested in one post. The most intricate designs can be achieved from
> glazing
> > first, then applying wax resist, then glazing with a second glaze and
even a
> > third. With the addition of oxides or stains painted on at any stage
where
> > necessary, I do not see where the glaze should or need be resist.
> David Cowdrill in Great Falls, Virginia
>
Craig Fulladosa on sun 12 mar 00
Cheryl,
It has been my experience that the brand you use makes a difference when
using cold wax. Also the consistency of the wax has made a difference too. I
think when the wax got too thick from evaporation it didn't work as well. I
believe Laguna has a good wax resist. I know that in my experience some
brands did not repel glaze well. Also the glaze thickness seems to make a
difference too.
Cheryl L Litman wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Janet,
>
> I use the cold wax from Ceramic Supply in NJ. The few times I've tried
> to glaze, brush on wax as a resist and glaze over it, the second glaze
> beaded up and stuck to the wax. I figured I just didn't let it dry
> enough so the next time I didn't put the second coat of glaze on until
> the next day. Still stuck in a lot of places.
>
> Has anyone else had success with cold wax or can't it be done?
>
> Cheryl Litman ---------- Somerset, NJ --------- email:
> cheryllitman@juno.com
>
> *** I have only one problem while dieting....food***
>
> On Thu, 9 Mar 2000 16:23:52 EST Janet Kaiser
> writes:
> > ----------------------------Original
> > message----------------------------
> > ------------------
> > Whilst I have been off-line there have been several posts on various
> > aspects=
> > of
> > using wax resist. What struck me with these posts and others in the
> > past has
> > been the omission of the recipe I was given and always used:
> >
> > Equal parts quality beeswax candle and a thin machine oil.
> >
> > This makes a mixture which can be kept warm and fluid safely over a
> > low =
> > burner,
> > preferably in an old fashioned glue-pot. It is safer than the wax
> > and
> > paraffin/kerosene mix which is flammable. I imagine that this could
> > also be
> > stained for the person looking for coloured black resist printing
> > medium,
> > although it seems to me that a design printed with slip or
> > underglaze =
> > pigment
> > directly onto leatherhard of biscuit pots would be easier and not
> > random.
> > Because the wax burns off, surely the stain would be pretty patchy?
> >
> > Certainly my mix can be used on raw glaze for various
> > glaze-over-glaze
> > techniques.
> >
> > However, I do not understand why wax needs to be mixed in with glaze
> > as
> > suggested in one post. The most intricate designs can be achieved
> > from =
> > glazing
> > first, then applying wax resist, then glazing with a second glaze
> > and even a
> > third. With the addition of oxides or stains painted on at any stage
> > where
> > necessary, I do not see where the glaze should or need be resist. Or
> > am I
> > missing something here?
> >
> > Janet Kaiser ... Where the clouds are down at roof-top level but the
> > =
> > daffodils
> > are in full bloom.
> > The Chapel of Art, Criccieth LL52 0EA, GB-Wales
> > Home of The International Potters Path
> > TEL: (01766) 523570
> > WEB: http://www.the-coa.org.uk
> > EMAIL: postbox=40the-coa.org.uk
>
> Cheryl Litman ---------- Somerset, NJ --------- email:
> cheryllitman@juno.com
>
> *** I have only one problem while dieting....food***
--
Craig
The Clayman
http://home.earthlink.net/~craigfull
| |
|
