Garden Imagery on sat 11 mar 00
My oldest kiln a Cress FX23 I purchased used over 12 years ago for $250.00.
Not exactly sure how old it was back then. It has served me well all these
years. I use it for mostly bisque firings and for when I have a small load
of Cone 5.
OK so here is the problem........
I have noticed bisque loads taking a little longer, and my last cone 5 I
did took almost 4 hours longer than usual. I tested the elements, they all
work. I have never done any repairs to this kiln. I am thinking maybe
the elements are weakening. Any thoughts?
If it is the elements considering the age of the kiln would it be worth the
$ and work to replace the elements?
Also how much of a pain in the *&%# is it to replace them in a unit like
the FX23.
Thanks appreciate any help/suggestions you can offer.
Lori Lynn Rejzek
Garden Imagery
www.gardenimageryusa.com
GSM_ENT on sun 12 mar 00
Hi Lori!
Extended firing time is ussualy due to the wear of the heating elements.
Copy of this msg is been sent to Mr Gene Kaufman, General Manager, Cress
Mfg. You can copy his E-Mail address from this msg. I am sure he will
contact you.
Reagards,
Tony
----- Original Message -----
From: Garden Imagery
To:
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2000 6:33 AM
Subject: Kiln Problem
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> My oldest kiln a Cress FX23 I purchased used over 12 years ago for
$250.00.
> Not exactly sure how old it was back then. It has served me well all
these
> years. I use it for mostly bisque firings and for when I have a small
load
> of Cone 5.
> OK so here is the problem........
>
> I have noticed bisque loads taking a little longer, and my last cone 5 I
> did took almost 4 hours longer than usual. I tested the elements, they
all
> work. I have never done any repairs to this kiln. I am thinking maybe
> the elements are weakening. Any thoughts?
>
> If it is the elements considering the age of the kiln would it be worth
the
> $ and work to replace the elements?
>
> Also how much of a pain in the *&%# is it to replace them in a unit like
> the FX23.
>
> Thanks appreciate any help/suggestions you can offer.
> Lori Lynn Rejzek
> Garden Imagery
> www.gardenimageryusa.com
Reg Wearley on sun 12 mar 00
Hi Lori-
You are no doubt right about 'tired elements'
in your kiln (assuming that your electric
supply to the kiln is unchanged). If your kiln
has been treating you well, and you have no
compelling need to upgrade, it probably is
worth putting new elements in. I have replaced
the elements in our old Duncan twice and, while
it takes some time and patience to do it certainly
is worthwhile doing (economically). I don't
know how the elements in your kiln are held in
place but if they are like either of ours you
will have to have the patience of Job and the
fingers of a surgeon to remove and replace them
with minumal damage to the bricks and the
channels where the elements lay. It is not an
easy job but can certainly be done. Good luck.
--Reg
--- Garden Imagery wrote:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> My oldest kiln a Cress FX23 I purchased used over 12
> years ago for $250.00.
> Not exactly sure how old it was back then. It has
> served me well all these
> years. I use it for mostly bisque firings and for
> when I have a small load
> of Cone 5.
> OK so here is the problem........
>
> I have noticed bisque loads taking a little longer,
> and my last cone 5 I
> did took almost 4 hours longer than usual. I
> tested the elements, they all
> work. I have never done any repairs to this kiln.
> I am thinking maybe
> the elements are weakening. Any thoughts?
>
> If it is the elements considering the age of the
> kiln would it be worth the
> $ and work to replace the elements?
>
> Also how much of a pain in the *&%# is it to
> replace them in a unit like
> the FX23.
>
> Thanks appreciate any help/suggestions you can
> offer.
> Lori Lynn Rejzek
> Garden Imagery
> www.gardenimageryusa.com
>
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Donald G. Goldsobel on mon 24 apr 00
I have a problem keeping my kiln lit!
I have 12 cu ft natural gas kiln that lights with a Basso safety valve in
line to the pilot ring and the main burner valve. I have had the kiln and
used it without unsolveable problems for ten years.
I light the kiln and within the next hour it goes out. This has happened on
two separate days with calm weather conditions. I am certain the pilot did
not blow out. I cleaned the silver contact from the thermocouple to the
Basso and made sure the pilot light from the basso is lined up with the
thermocouple heat sensor. Still, the pilot light goes out. Any educated
guesses? or better yet, has anyone had and solved this problem before?
TIA
Donald, in a frustrated condition
Paul Lewing on tue 25 apr 00
Donald,
I used to have a gas kiln that had Basso valves and thermocouples on it
and they were forever doing that. I ended up clamping down all the
reset buttons with C-clamps. Now I know that that comment will cause me
more need for a flameproof suit that the kiln ever did.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
ferenc jakab on wed 26 apr 00
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Lewing"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, 26 April 2000 4:41 am
Subject: Re: Kiln problem
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Donald,
> I used to have a gas kiln that had Basso valves and thermocouples on it
> and they were forever doing that. I ended up clamping down all the
> reset buttons with C-clamps. Now I know that that comment will cause me
> more need for a flameproof suit that the kiln ever did.
> Paul Lewing, Seattle
You're right about the flaming. I hope you didn't do this with LPG?
Feri.
will edwards on mon 16 oct 00
I am not certain I can help but since I have repaired a few I can only tr=
y. if
it is manual (Not familiar with the number you gave) push the button in a=
nd
trigger it to operate on one ring or controller at a time. Turn from off =
to
low and it should hum a little. Then from low to medium it should hum a l=
ittle
more and then from medium to high and it should hum at a steady pace.
Do this in a quiet zone and do only one controller at a time. If it fails=
to
do the humming tune you have a bad controller on one of the rings most li=
kely.
That would mean it could take forever to reach its temperature if at all.=
Also you can get a volt meter and check the elements from the point they =
start
out to the return point and see if any of these are broken. Look for piec=
es of
char or kiln brick in between the groove.
Good luck. I hope this helps
Wm. Edwards
Snip>>>>I want to thank Cindy Strand for all of her help and support she =
has =
given me. But I need more help to resolve this problem. So thank
you in advance.
Sorry this is so long. But I am very frustrated.
Deborah Olson
____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D=
1
DEBORAH on mon 23 oct 00
Dear William-
I am sorry I never responded with a thank you for your
response. I guess I have been too busy trying to get
this thing straightened out. I have done all the things
you suggested. I am corresponding with Paragon.
It is more then the above. It is the kiln itself.
So -thanks.
Deborah
----- Original Message -----
From: will edwards
To:
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 9:34 PM
Subject: Kiln problem
I am not certain I can help but since I have repaired a few I can only try.
if
it is manual (Not familiar with the number you gave) push the button in and
trigger it to operate on one ring or controller at a time. Turn from off to
low and it should hum a little. Then from low to medium it should hum a
little
more and then from medium to high and it should hum at a steady pace.
Do this in a quiet zone and do only one controller at a time. If it fails to
do the humming tune you have a bad controller on one of the rings most
likely.
That would mean it could take forever to reach its temperature if at all.
Also you can get a volt meter and check the elements from the point they
start
out to the return point and see if any of these are broken. Look for pieces
of
char or kiln brick in between the groove.
Good luck. I hope this helps
Wm. Edwards
Snip>>>>I want to thank Cindy Strand for all of her help and support she has
given me. But I need more help to resolve this problem. So thank
you in advance.
Sorry this is so long. But I am very frustrated.
Deborah Olson
____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1
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Judith I. Marvin on sun 10 feb 02
Help! My very new (less than 6 months old) electric kiln which has been
fired fewer than 20 times is beginning to deteriorate around the outside
edge of the lid. There was a bit of small chipping then today a piece
about 1/4 inch deep and one inch high by 1 1/2 wide popped off. I have been
very carefull with this kiln. I lower the lid very carefully and use a slow
firing schedule. What could be causing this. How can I avoid further
deterioration. How can I repare the damage already done. Thanks for any
advice. Judith
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Working Potter on mon 11 feb 02
My first guess is moisture damage but I will leave how to fix it to those
who know better than I.
Misty.
In a message dated 2/10/2002 11:51:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
judithimarvin@HOTMAIL.COM writes:
>
> Help! My very new (less than 6 months old) electric kiln which has been
> fired fewer than 20 times is beginning to deteriorate around the outside
> edge of the lid. There was a bit of small chipping then today a piece
> about 1/4 inch deep and one inch high by 1 1/2 wide popped off. I have been
> very carefull with this kiln. I lower the lid very carefully and use a slow
> firing schedule. What could be causing this. How can I avoid further
> deterioration. How can I repare the damage already done. Thanks for any
> advice. Judith
>
Roland Beevor on fri 16 dec 11
The old electric kiln (its new to me) fires bisque
happily, but the first time aiming for cone 6 when it
reached 1170C the supply tripped. I reset the supply
and tried again, twice, and got to the same
temperature. Is the problem more likely to be with the
kiln or the electricity supply? Does something
significant happen at that temperature to raise the
resistance?
I don't know whether the temperature on the controller
is accurate, and the 6 cone was well bent, but having
spent a couple of hours trying to get over 1170 I don't
suppose this tells me much?
frustrated,
Roly
Pottery by John on fri 16 dec 11
Roly,
Check the manufacturers nameplate for the amps draw for your new (old) kiln=
.
See how that compares with the circuit breaker or fuse(s) to your supply as
a first step. For a continuous load device the breaker rating should be
quite a bit higher than the amps rating for the kiln.
Regards,
John Lowes
Sandy Springs, Georgia, USA
http://wynhillpottery.weebly.com/
William & Susan Schran User on fri 16 dec 11
On 12/16/11 12:30 PM, "Roland Beevor" wrote:
> The old electric kiln (its new to me) fires bisque
> happily, but the first time aiming for cone 6 when it
> reached 1170C the supply tripped. I reset the supply
> and tried again, twice, and got to the same
> temperature. Is the problem more likely to be with the
> kiln or the electricity supply? Does something
> significant happen at that temperature to raise the
> resistance?
> I don't know whether the temperature on the controller
> is accurate, and the 6 cone was well bent, but having
> spent a couple of hours trying to get over 1170 I don't
> suppose this tells me much?
Roly,
You don't write about the breaker or the kiln's amperage.
Generally you'll nee to breaker to about 120% of the kiln's draw, otherwise
when the kiln is on high drawing full amps, the breaker may trip.
When there is uncertainty about controller, programming a higher end
temperature, watching for when firing cone goes over, then performing a ski=
p
step is the way to find set temperature for future firings.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Arnold Howard on fri 16 dec 11
On 12/16/2011 11:30 AM, Roland Beevor wrote:
> The old electric kiln (its new to me) fires bisque
> happily, but the first time aiming for cone 6 when it
> reached 1170C the supply tripped. I reset the supply
> and tried again, twice, and got to the same
> temperature.
Did an error message appear in the controller display window before the
power shut off? Was the firing unusually slow toward 1170C?
If the kiln shut off because the circuit breaker tripped, you may need
to replace the breaker--but not necessarily with a breaker of higher
amperage. Some brands of circuit breakers trip prematurely with age.
Or a connection to the circuit breaker may be loose. That can generate
enough heat to trip a breaker.
You should not replace the breaker with one of higher amperage unless
you are certain that the circuit wire gauge is heavy enough for the new
breaker.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Joseph Herbert on sat 17 dec 11
Roly,
Circuit breakers have two different protective functions - one fast, one
slow. The fast overcurrent action is intended to interrupt the circuit whe=
n
a short to ground exists. The rapid increase in current causes the breaker
to open. This is the one we usually encounter and think of when a breaker
opens. The other, slow, protective feature reacts to high current over a
long time. At some point, the breaker may trip if a near-capacity current
is passing through the device for an extended time. It sound like this is
the feature you are now enjoying.
The correctly sized breaker that is new and in good shape should solve the
problem. While you are fixed on the temperature of failure, consider the
time element. With a computer controller, the time to that temperature is
probably very consistent.
Joe
Joseph Herbert
Training Developer
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