dolly traicoff on wed 29 mar 00
This is my first message to all of you. Are there any tile makers out
there? Would love to hear from you.
Dolly
Karen Elkins on thu 30 mar 00
Dolly,
I'm what I term an apprentice tile maker, living in Nottingham, England and
I've been making encaustic slip decorated tiles for 4 years part time and
full time for the last 6 months.
My methods are labour intensive and pretty basic, I roll out a slab of
earthenware clay, cut round a tile template, leave to leather hard and then
carve designs and pictures in which I fill with white slip, carve this back
and fire with honey glaze.
Previously I carved patterns into wooded blocks and used these to stamp out
the design, but it takes a long time from idea to completion and this was
when I did it as a hobby, re-enacting Tudor and Medieval tile making.
My latest innovation is to roll the clay out much thinner that I was doing
(now between one quarter and one third of an inch thick, previously an inch
thick) place the wet tile between sheets of plaster board and then leave for
3 days. I have discovered the delights of cling film! I wrap 3 or 4 leather
hard tiles together and put them in a cool place, they are ready for me to
carve into without the continual pressure of tiles going too dry to use.
I've learned a lot from Frank Giorgini's book 'Handmade Tiles' ISBN 0 7153
0338 4 which I used to make some plaster moulds for tiles, but I was making
my 'Medieval Floor tiles' at an inch thick and I think that they're just too
thick to press mould using me and a rolling pin.
I really am a babe in arms though and would love to hear from others doing
similar stuff. Thanks for inviting me to contribute & to Janet as well! I've
been lurking since I got my electric kiln (without instructions) and was
looking for help in converting what I knew about wood firing into electric
terms. (And yes, Janet I'd love to send you a tile for the Potters Path!)
Karen.
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dolly traicoff on fri 31 mar 00
Hi Karen,
I often make a "master" tile, about 6x6, make a plaster mold and just
before the mold is totally dry, I carve a design into it, landscape,
flower, whatever. Old ball point pens are the best carvers.
Dolly
Karen Elkins wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dolly,
>
> I'm what I term an apprentice tile maker, living in Nottingham, England and
> I've been making encaustic slip decorated tiles for 4 years part time and
> full time for the last 6 months.
>
> My methods are labour intensive and pretty basic, I roll out a slab of
> earthenware clay, cut round a tile template, leave to leather hard and then
> carve designs and pictures in which I fill with white slip, carve this back
> and fire with honey glaze.
>
> Previously I carved patterns into wooded blocks and used these to stamp out
> the design, but it takes a long time from idea to completion and this was
> when I did it as a hobby, re-enacting Tudor and Medieval tile making.
>
> My latest innovation is to roll the clay out much thinner that I was doing
> (now between one quarter and one third of an inch thick, previously an inch
> thick) place the wet tile between sheets of plaster board and then leave for
> 3 days. I have discovered the delights of cling film! I wrap 3 or 4 leather
> hard tiles together and put them in a cool place, they are ready for me to
> carve into without the continual pressure of tiles going too dry to use.
>
> I've learned a lot from Frank Giorgini's book 'Handmade Tiles' ISBN 0 7153
> 0338 4 which I used to make some plaster moulds for tiles, but I was making
> my 'Medieval Floor tiles' at an inch thick and I think that they're just too
> thick to press mould using me and a rolling pin.
>
> I really am a babe in arms though and would love to hear from others doing
> similar stuff. Thanks for inviting me to contribute & to Janet as well! I've
> been lurking since I got my electric kiln (without instructions) and was
> looking for help in converting what I knew about wood firing into electric
> terms. (And yes, Janet I'd love to send you a tile for the Potters Path!)
>
> Karen.
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
Nancy Guido on sat 1 apr 00
I guess there is no sense trying to hide from this one, as my screen name
implies I make tiles. I started making tiles after we built our house in
1992. I wanted a tiled sunroom, and after all I am a potter and they are
just made of clay so I should be able to do this -- right? Well anyway,
after we bought the tiles for the sunroom I had to take some classes about
tiles. My teacher was Nawal Motawi ( of Motawi Tiles) at the Ann Arbor Art
Center. That was about six years ago, and I found I really liked making
them. My first most favorite book was by Frank Giorgini, now my hero is
Peter King. I have most recently made a mold so I can try a sink. This is
for the bathroom my husband is going to put in the basement for me. I figure
by the time I get the sink made, he'll be starting on the bathroom, after all
we have been in the house now eight years. I still get an annual urge to
throw on the wheel and most recently made bowls for the Empty Bowls project.
I belong to the Tile Heritage and enjoy all their publications and I have
been to one tile symposium, the one held in Doylestown Pennsylvania at the
Moravian Tile Pottery. It was inspiring. Oh, I do have a BFA, majored in
ceramics and art history and wholeheartedly agree that there is nothing wrong
with education.
Don Jones on sat 1 apr 00
Dear Group,
I am currently reinventing the wheel (in this case the tile process). I
have a North Star slab roller, Giorgini's book, and I am rolling out 3/8"
slabs to use in 6" and 8" tiles. To get the canvas texture off the slab, I
wet it down with a sponge and rub it until a slip appears. Then I squeegee
it off and use a bisque tile as a template to cut out the tiles. Drying is
between plaster wall boards. It is working ok but each tile when finished
has a slightly wavy, handmade look to it that I hope people will like.
I am currently making 12" square tiles using a fatter slab. These are still
in the research stage but I have high hopes. I decorate them with my usual
sky designs. There is a big crafts fair coming up in June here in
Albuquerque where I will market test them. I'll let you know how it goes.
Don Jones
http://www.highfiber.com/~claysky
Joanne L. Van Bezooyen on mon 3 apr 00
Don,
At the NCECA I purchased a 'mat' to use instead of canvas on the slab roller.
(What button did I push to make all this underline?) This eliminates the step
of having to sponge the canvas texture marks off the top of the clay slab. The
wiping will distort the slab's thickness making it wavy. It works just great.
If you are interested, I'll send you the info.....or, better, if the mfg's or
distributers of the item I am mentioning are lurking, perhaps they can get you
the info. I think it cost $15.
Joanne in Tucson
Don Jones wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Group,
> I am currently reinventing the wheel (in this case the tile process). I
> have a North Star slab roller, Giorgini's book, and I am rolling out 3/8"
> slabs to use in 6" and 8" tiles. To get the canvas texture off the slab, I
> wet it down with a sponge and rub it until a slip appears. Then I squeegee
> it off and use a bisque tile as a template to cut out the tiles. Drying is
> between plaster wall boards. It is working ok but each tile when finished
> has a slightly wavy, handmade look to it that I hope people will like.
> I am currently making 12" square tiles using a fatter slab. These are still
> in the research stage but I have high hopes. I decorate them with my usual
> sky designs. There is a big crafts fair coming up in June here in
> Albuquerque where I will market test them. I'll let you know how it goes.
> Don Jones
> http://www.highfiber.com/~claysky
Marion Barnes-Schwartz. on tue 4 apr 00
Joanne,
Please let us know where one can get these slab roller mats. I, for one,
am tired of the wavy slabs caused by smoothing after rolling with canvas.
Thanks,
Marion
Denver, NY
Anji Henderson on wed 5 apr 00
There is also the idea of going to your local printer
... Not like Kinkos where they copie/Xerox, but a
genuine printer.. Ask them for there old printer
blankets.. They are a kind of compressed foam like mat
that moves the paper through the printing press.. When
they get worn down they will not move the paper any
more so the printer will throw them away.. If it is a
large company they will throw away a lot in one day...
These mats are great for the slab roller, setting down
on the table as a mat to keep the table clean, passing
out to small children (Or I suppose any children) so
they can do there work on the floor.. Cool things...
Now if I can just get my behind up to my nearest
printer... I would be a much happier camper...
Anji
--- "Joanne L. Van Bezooyen"
wrote:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> Don,
> At the NCECA I purchased a 'mat' to use instead of
> canvas on the slab roller.
> (What button did I push to make all this underline?)
> This eliminates the step
> of having to sponge the canvas texture marks off the
> top of the clay slab. The
> wiping will distort the slab's thickness making it
> wavy. It works just great.
> If you are interested, I'll send you the
> info.....or, better, if the mfg's or
> distributers of the item I am mentioning are
> lurking, perhaps they can get you
> the info. I think it cost $15.
> Joanne in Tucson
>
> Don Jones wrote:
>
> > ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> > Dear Group,
> > I am currently reinventing the wheel (in this case
> the tile process). I
> > have a North Star slab roller, Giorgini's book,
> and I am rolling out 3/8"
> > slabs to use in 6" and 8" tiles. To get the
> canvas texture off the slab, I
> > wet it down with a sponge and rub it until a slip
> appears. Then I squeegee
> > it off and use a bisque tile as a template to cut
> out the tiles. Drying is
> > between plaster wall boards. It is working ok but
> each tile when finished
> > has a slightly wavy, handmade look to it that I
> hope people will like.
> > I am currently making 12" square tiles using a
> fatter slab. These are still
> > in the research stage but I have high hopes. I
> decorate them with my usual
> > sky designs. There is a big crafts fair coming up
> in June here in
> > Albuquerque where I will market test them. I'll
> let you know how it goes.
> > Don Jones
> > http://www.highfiber.com/~claysky
>
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george koller on wed 5 apr 00
Hello,
I too am a Tile Artist. With a twist - in my previous
life I was a technical software guy (quality control/
statistics/SPC). I am taking a different and unabashed
technical/assisted approach to tile making. Things are
not there yet, but I am quite sure I am proceeding on
a path toward good and interesting clay artistry.
This project has been evolving for over four years
now - I can only vaguely remember how I saw things
when I got started. I thought I knew so much more
back then.
This list, and two wonderful Minnosat'in guys in particular
-Kurt W., and Mel J. have helped me to find my way along
this most unfamiliar road. Thank you.
My goal is to use software and motion control equipment
to assist in working with the traditional clays, traditional
glazes, and traditional firing. In other words, my goal is
to be able to allow the software and motion control equipment
to substantially assist, while using what I consider several
of the most artful decorating techniques I am familiar with.
If I achieve my goal, it will be possible to "process"
selected digital photos of such a things as vine covered stone
house, a sailboat standing out before one of our Door County
bluffs, or a weathered barn - and have the equipment substantially
assist in building that image on to clay surfaces.
Things may work out that our prototype production will be
done in the Leland / North Port on the Michigan Peninsula
just across from Door county (450 miles by car, 60 miles
across the water) - I would sure appreciate hearing from
any potters in that beautiful area.
Best,
George Koller
Sturgeon Bay, WI - Door County
Where the winter chill is still in the air, but signs of spring are
everywhere.
ILENE MAHLER on thu 6 apr 00
Try using lineolium.I probably spelled it wrong In home Depot etc. They
have end rolls they can be cut to size and are reasonably priced thats
what we used in our colored clay workshop with Debbie Fried..It adapted
well to the slab roller I use it all the time no marks and it can be cut
ro the width of the roller and any length you want.and you can make
several for different clays or let stuff dry if too wet Good
Luck,,,,Ilene in Conn
"Marion Barnes-Schwartz." wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Joanne,
>
> Please let us know where one can get these slab roller mats. I, for one,
> am tired of the wavy slabs caused by smoothing after rolling with canvas.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Marion
> Denver, NY
miriam on fri 7 apr 00
Ilene-
Doesn't the clay stick to linoleum? Mimi
ILENE MAHLER wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Try using lineolium.I probably spelled it wrong In home Depot etc. They
> have end rolls they can be cut to size and are reasonably priced thats
> what we used in our colored clay workshop with Debbie Fried..It adapted
> well to the slab roller I use it all the time no marks and it can be cut
> ro the width of the roller and any length you want.and you can make
> several for different clays or let stuff dry if too wet Good
> Luck,,,,Ilene in Conn
>
> "Marion Barnes-Schwartz." wrote:
> >
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > Joanne,
> >
> > Please let us know where one can get these slab roller mats. I, for one
> > am tired of the wavy slabs caused by smoothing after rolling with canvas.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Marion
> > Denver, NY
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