Wesley C. Rolley on thu 30 mar 00
Does anyone in Oz have experience with glazes using ash from a gum tree?
I have a neighbor in California who will soon be taking down three tall
eucalyptis trees and I can have all the wood I want. I would be interested
in an analysis if available.
I am not sure which kind of gum tree it is, though I can eliminate quite a
few (ghost gum, red gum, scribbly bark, iron bark, etc.etc.etc.)
Wes Rolley
ferenc jakab on fri 31 mar 00
> I am not sure which kind of gum tree it is, though I can eliminate quite a
> few (ghost gum, red gum, scribbly bark, iron bark, etc.etc.etc.)
Wes,
It's really important to identify the species if you can. The local soil
conditions will also make some difference.
Feri.
ILENE MAHLER on fri 31 mar 00
try using this in Raku reduction...You may get interesting
results...Inquring minds want to know..Ilene in conn
"Wesley C. Rolley" wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Does anyone in Oz have experience with glazes using ash from a gum tree?
> I have a neighbor in California who will soon be taking down three tall
> eucalyptis trees and I can have all the wood I want. I would be interested
> in an analysis if available.
>
> I am not sure which kind of gum tree it is, though I can eliminate quite a
> few (ghost gum, red gum, scribbly bark, iron bark, etc.etc.etc.)
>
> Wes Rolley
Barbara Reeley on mon 11 mar 02
Love having people bring me buckets of ash. I just mention that I'd like to
have some ash to people I know and someone always says they burn their
fireplace and chuck the ashes into the backyard on plants or into a pit.
Sifting the ashes through a window screen in the summer, outdoors, is a fun
afternoon. I don't wash the ash, just use it in my glazes and never have
consistent results but can't wait to open the kiln and check out the pots!
Ask friends & family, someone will hopefully bring you buckets of ash!
Barbara
In Upstate New York where the earth is beginning to come to life and Spring
is close at foot.
Kathy Catlin on tue 12 mar 02
Yikes, my first question on this List.... Here goes: Can you use wood ash in an
electric kiln, cone 10?
Barbara Reeley wrote:
> Love having people bring me buckets of ash. I just mention that I'd like to
> have some ash to people I know and someone always says they burn their
> fireplace and chuck the ashes into the backyard on plants or into a pit.
> Sifting the ashes through a window screen in the summer, outdoors, is a fun
> afternoon. I don't wash the ash, just use it in my glazes and never have
> consistent results but can't wait to open the kiln and check out the pots!
>
> Ask friends & family, someone will hopefully bring you buckets of ash!
>
> Barbara
>
> In Upstate New York where the earth is beginning to come to life and Spring
> is close at foot.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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>
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Dave Gayman on wed 13 mar 02
Sure can. It's one of the ways we made pretend reduction glazes in the bad
old days with oxidation electric kilns. Depending on types of feldspars
and other ingredients, you can get a range of effects, from very rough dry
surfaces to gloss. Michigan and Ohio hardwoods made for dark
brown-to-green glazes and to my taste worked best when layered over other
glazes, including (sniff) the now-gone Albany slip.
Be aware that wood ash + water = lye (potash), so that hand-dipping your
bisque into the glaze solution takes on a new dimension, especially if you
have dry-skin cracks or a paper cut.
Ash glazes, at least the ones I used, tend to settle into rock-hard
lumps. I think a bit of epsom salts took care of that, but can't remember
to that level of detail.
Dave
At 08:18 PM 3/12/2002 -0500, Kathy Catlin wrote:
>Yikes, my first question on this List.... Here goes: Can you use wood ash
>in an
>electric kiln, cone 10?
>
>Barbara Reeley wrote:
>
> > Love having people bring me buckets of ash. I just mention that I'd
> like to
> >
Robert Briscoe on wed 13 mar 02
Kathy, the simple answer is yes ash can be used in electric kiln fired
glazes. I think they look terrific but I prefer mine in reduction. Bob
Briscoe
Alan D. Scott on wed 13 mar 02
Washing your ash will remove the soluble materials (lye among them) so you
can still hand-dip.
Alan
> Be aware that wood ash + water = lye (potash),
> so that hand-dipping your bisque into the glaze
> solution takes on a new dimension, especially
> if you have dry-skin cracks or a paper cut.
Tony Ferguson on wed 13 mar 02
Hey Bob!
Thank you!
Tony Ferguson
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku
www.aquariusartgallery.com
Web Site, Marketing & Photographic Services for Artists
Workshops available
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Briscoe"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 4:52 AM
Subject: Re: ash
> Kathy, the simple answer is yes ash can be used in electric kiln fired
> glazes. I think they look terrific but I prefer mine in reduction. Bob
> Briscoe
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Tommy Humphries on wed 13 mar 02
Alas this is so, but removing the soluble materials will raise the melting
point considerably...I wonder what effect, using the wash water from ash
would have on a ^10 glaze...would it cause it to flux way too early??
Seems an experiment or two is in order!
Tommy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan D. Scott"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: Ash
> Washing your ash will remove the soluble materials (lye among them) so you
> can still hand-dip.
>
> Alan
>
> > Be aware that wood ash + water = lye (potash),
> > so that hand-dipping your bisque into the glaze
> > solution takes on a new dimension, especially
> > if you have dry-skin cracks or a paper cut.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Dave Gayman on wed 13 mar 02
Well, doggone... 7 years of using ash glazes and never heard of this (and
way to dumb to think about it)... you could have ash glazes AND homemade soap.
Does this change the fluxing quality of the ash or the glaze?
At 07:44 AM 3/13/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Washing your ash will remove the soluble materials (lye among them) so you
>can still hand-dip.
>
>Alan
>
> > Be aware that wood ash + water = lye (potash),
> > so that hand-dipping your bisque into the glaze
> > solution takes on a new dimension, especially
> > if you have dry-skin cracks or a paper cut.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Bobbruch1@AOL.COM on thu 14 mar 02
I have tried washing ash for cone 10 reduction glazes, and if I remember
correctly, it does have a subtle effect on the glaze surface. Haven't tried
it yet with cone 6 oxidation glazes, but I would recommend doing some tests
before putting glazes with washed ash on an entire kiln load.
Also, you can get some interesting effects by layering runny ash glazes over
slips, Amaco Velvets, & other glazes including other ash glazes.
As a source for ash, if you have any friends with a fireplace, why not
volunteer to clean it out for them. A symbiotic relationship, they get a
clean fireplace and you get a bucket of ash.
<<<<<<<<
Subject: Re: Ash
Washing your ash will remove the soluble materials (lye among them) so you
can still hand-dip.
Alan
> Be aware that wood ash + water = lye (potash),
> so that hand-dipping your bisque into the glaze
> solution takes on a new dimension, especially
> if you have dry-skin cracks or a paper cut.
David Dahlquist on thu 14 mar 02
I'm curious if it matters how thoroughly the wood is burned. Does the =
ash have to be all gray before sieving, does it mater if you have some =
black chunks, and then sieve those out? How much charcoal is okay? Or =
is it best to have lots?
Dave
Wilsonville, OR.
John Christie on sat 16 mar 02
On 14th March, Dave Dahlquist wrote
"I'm curious if it matters how thoroughly the wood is burned. Does the =
ash have to be all gray before sieving, does it mater if you have some =
black chunks, and then sieve those out? How much charcoal is okay? Or =
is it best to have lots?"
I don't think that charcoal is generally regarded as much of an asset in an
ash glaze - except, perhaps, if you are using an electric kiln where it
might aid local reduction. I would recommend you to weigh the ash before
mixing it with water. Allow it to settle before skimming off the charcoal,
which will be floating on the surface, with a household sieve. A more
difficult decision will be whether or not to keep the surplus water which
will contain soluble salts (mainly soda ash). You might opt to divide it
into two equal batches, one "washed" (i.e. replacing the brown water with
clean water) and one "unwashed". After sieving (40-60 mesh) you can then do
line blends by volume with your other glaze materials. A pint weight of
twelve ounces per pint is a reasonable starting point for all the materials
in the line blend if you are going to test your glazes on bisque.
John Christie
www.blackhillspottery.co.uk
Jim Tabor on mon 18 mar 02
David-
I always screen wet ash through a 30 mesh to get the chunks out and after a glaze is made, it is screened again through an 80 mesh.
I use parts rather than percents when making ash glazes with adjustments for a workable base after the first test is fired.
Jim Tabor
http://home.earthlink.net/~taborj/index.html
David Dahlquist wrote:
> I'm curious if it matters how thoroughly the wood is burned. Does the ash have to be all gray before sieving, does it mater if you have some black chunks, and then sieve those out? How much charcoal is okay? Or is it best to have lots?
> Dave
> Wilsonville, OR.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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